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B00sted180

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Posts posted by B00sted180


  1. What about getting a Power FC and using the Apexi boost controller kit? That's what I went simply because I didn't want a controller/monitor in the cabin anywhere. Everything is adjusted and monitored through the hand controller and I can remove or even hide it if I'm worried about someone seeing it. I did my research before purchase and seen others using the system for years and holding boost into the 20+ psi which should suit my needs. I see it doesn't seem to be a commonly chosen system, why might that be?


  2. I know your wanting a return flow to prevent cutting a hole in your battery tray (Wise choice as I don't like seeing Type X's getting cut up) but with your air conditioner and airbox etc I know is possible to leave installed. I have a front mount and other then a hole in the battery tray everything else has remained standard.

     

    what cooler or kit did you get?, with cutting the battery tray - what did you do with the battery?, i just dont want to relocate it, thus why i didnt want to cut it. how much did you need to cut off?. I didnt know if getting a huge FMIC is overkill if im only looking at running 14psi also.

     

    I don't know what brand it is as it was already installed when I bought the car but I still have my air con and can use my standard airbox. My piping comes through the battery tray and you just have to use a smaller battery and turn it 90 degrees. When I first bought the car it was virtually standard with a front mount running standard 7psi and it was great to drive now I'm currently running 22psi with no problems.

     

    wow, they had a FMIC and stock boost!. your running 22 now! wow that a bit, you using a different turbo?.

     

    I will admit Ive always liked the look of FMIC but i thought they would be overkill for my purpose, but maybe not. And i thought it would take too much modifications to fit them. where does your fmic sit? infront of the aircon/radiator?

     

    im just looking for a good suggestion really on a good s13 intercooler, theres way too much choice out there.

     

    When I bought it I was running 7psi with the standard T25 now running 22psi with a Precision 5130 with the exact same intercooler. the hot pipe was all original piping when I bought the car and all the other piping was custom made. I do have a aftermarket front bumper and unsure if a standard bumper would actually fit and the front reo bar has been removed. The car has been through regency with the front mount with no problems so must be legal.


  3. I know your wanting a return flow to prevent cutting a hole in your battery tray (Wise choice as I don't like seeing Type X's getting cut up) but with your air conditioner and airbox etc I know is possible to leave installed. I have a front mount and other then a hole in the battery tray everything else has remained standard.

     

    what cooler or kit did you get?, with cutting the battery tray - what did you do with the battery?, i just dont want to relocate it, thus why i didnt want to cut it. how much did you need to cut off?. I didnt know if getting a huge FMIC is overkill if im only looking at running 14psi also.

     

    I don't know what brand it is as it was already installed when I bought the car but I still have my air con and can use my standard airbox. My piping comes through the battery tray and you just have to use a smaller battery and turn it 90 degrees. When I first bought the car it was virtually standard with a front mount running standard 7psi and it was great to drive now I'm currently running 22psi with no problems.


  4. hi guys,

    Having little trouble choosing a intercooler for my s13, hoping to get some suggestions. All i want to get to is to run 14psi, keep my aircon, factory airbox and hopefully no cutting of battery tray. So far i can see i have the following options

     

    I know your wanting a return flow to prevent cutting a hole in your battery tray (Wise choice as I don't like seeing Type X's getting cut up) but with your air conditioner and airbox etc I know is possible to leave installed. I have a front mount and other then a hole in the battery tray everything else has remained standard.


  5. Not sure if QLD is much different then SA but I had a mate who had cops rock up on his door with a warrant for his arrest for not arriving to court for a driving offence he committed 12-24 months earlier. My mate wasn't aware his offence required him to go to court as he never received a summons and had already paid all the fines. He saw legal advise and was told that a summons had to be issued within 12 or 24 months (cant remember) or you walk free. In regards to your summons I'd just sit back and wait for it to arrive in the mail or even better never arrive. Worse case scenario you'll have cops at your door step with a warrant for your arrest.

     

    In regards to your suspended license (again unsure if QLD is different then SA) your license should still be valid until after your hearing. A mate of mine has lost his license 4 times now and I've seen him have to go through the process.

     

    That's my knowledge of the system, maybe someone from QLD can verify how it works in QLD. Might be worth making a anonymous phone call to the motor department enquiring on how a suspended license circumstance works.


  6. I've heard that going 2 guides is a good improvement. Going a rocker arm stopper can help with prevention.

     

    Build it into a 9000rpm head. I built my head exactly the same as they have in this thread. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-build-a-9000-rpm-sr20det-head.html

     

    Only difference was I didn't go solid lifters, went enlarged valves, removed quench pads and had it ported. I have my engine still on standard rev limit but I find it revs out really quickly and wouldn't mind exploring different rev limits. I have limit bashed my engine on numerous times since having the head built without any problems yet.


  7. Put a little more money into the upgrade and go 5 stud, then go a set of standard 16" Nissan wheels. Their only 1" bigger and keeps a stock look to the car. Alternatively you can stay 4 stud and buy a nice set of aftermarket 15" wheels which have a clean standard look but clear the brakes. Or just do the whole spacer idea with SR wheels.


  8. I have seen this happen plenty of times in the past but never on a car on the street. I have had cars of my own put onto car trailers using the forks on a tractor. Keeping in mind these cars are wreaks with either plans of restoration or parts. Surprisingly none of my cars which have had it done appear to have any damage from it. I would defiantly not do it to a nice car or one I didn't want to risk damaging. If this happened to me I think I'd go full 'pmod' on them.

     

    I've heard of it being done in trucking yards when drivers leave there car in the way without keys,but I've only seen cars moved lifting from the towbar with a sling

     

    As in dragging the car? When I fist read it I pictured having the car lifted from the towbar and hanging in the air vertically.

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