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-Hey guys, so not too much about me but I've just turned 19, had my R32 Skyline gts-4 rb20det stolen two days after i moved in to a new house.. Still with family, need money for this!) What I always say is there's not much point in using the words 'could' 'should' 'would' or thinking about negatives so I decided to just move on as quickly as I can. I searched for weeks online scouring the QLD for registerable 180sx shells whilst keeping a keen eye for my r32 parts :\

 

:wheelchair:

 

I was selling a van, my brother got it for very cheap and gave it to me to sell out of compassion, will never forget that. In the ad i would take a 180sx shell with cash adjustment, this guy had no cash but offered me the shell, which was lucky he kept it off-market while I got the van sold (4ish weeks)

Price of shell $1000 ono (UPDATE 15/4/20: The price was negotiated down to $600, and to date I've easily sold 400-500 of stuff, got another 200 to sell along with parts I will be keeping to use like the one piece drive shaft, r200, half shafts, etc)

Sold van $3,500,

Bought my brothers Honda Civic EK1 - $2000

Registered (perfect for a daily, fuel, weight, fwd safety in rain, etc) Oh and the best part is he left his stereo in there as he has loads of gear, it's only a 300w amp with 2x 10inch subs but it vibrates the glass, your bones and hair on your body at 90% volume :naughty::thumb:

 

Also if my context of time is a bit confusing in this first post it's because I just started this thread after it all happened about 1 month ago, so I will post "progress" in one or two posts after this then time will be live

 

So I finally dragged my brother and my dad along on the two hour drive, and seen the silhouette of the 180 in the driveway as we arrived, I could feel them internally cringing, smashed windscreen, no driver door or quarter glass, grim reaper bonnet hahaha, and etc. Pretty much looked like this

1501240_526021264179510_1688938907_o.jpg

bonnet

1501466_526020687512901_2058819674_o.jpg

First thing I did was gurney it off, something retarded happened and I musta slipped my right hand being wet or something and the gun pointed at my left hand tearing off 1/2" squared of skin, stung for whole night and day after baha, next best to the old knuckle bash.

019.JPG

Here she is at the yard (Location god damn disclosed, no info for potential thiefs -.-) with all that stripped interior taken out and organised.

Was as absolute bitch to get on and especially off the trailer as it was 'rolling' without coilovers, uprights wired to the strut tops and sitting on stockies. Like sitting, the wheel arches onto the tyres haha, very hard to roll even with the low weight

 

Came with some goodies, 2L surge tank I am painting at the very moment so pics in next post, with 044 External Bosch, and apparently a 040 in the tank which I will found out soonish. Came with sard FPR, some good looking stereo gear, Bunch of thick gauge wire inc. power, few rca cables, extra relays for thermo and pump etc, all stock relay boxes/fuses and some kind of loom. This weird Boost controller thing? Seems to be a solenoid but no wires? Couldn't be a tee as no adjustment? If anyone knows lemme know

022.JPG

Pignose/CA Front bar with lip (Genuine and came on car) The only front bumper I lovee!

003.JPG

Here's all the interior, selling the green keeping red

UPDATE: Sold most of it, got boot trims on reserve for a guy to trade for sunroof and RH door which I need

007.JPG

 

My first steps are the get the car stripped so I can prep the shell, have got the crossmember off and jesus it's heavy to shift on your own. Guess the car's weight has to come from somewhere.

002.JPG

1 foot of progress ~ 3 mins

003.JPG

3 metres of progress ~ 25 mins and pooped out

015.JPG

Finally in haha, you can probably see in the last photo I was going for the shipping container (my uncles but he lets me use back section) where my parts are but gave up and put into the demountable until I can get a hand or strip it down.

Edited by Danie l
new front page

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Nice pics and bad luck on the Stolen R32 :(

 

Keep the progress up!

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Here's my dads totally JDM half cut truck haha, it's exhaust with flex pipe I may be able to clean up an utilise for my dump pipe004.JPG

and 4-5" (Gotta measure it next time at yard) pipe I will definately use for intake

005.JPG

Here is the 180 now, almost stripped off bolt-on's it will soon be time to chip the sound deadener sad.png and cut brackets off, possibly tub front guards and removable rad support, and maybe flat rear floor. lolwot.gif

027.JPG022.JPG

Does anyone have some input at this stage? Wondering if it's structurally sound to cut out the rear seat supports as shown, I've seen photos of people doing it so can't be that bad. Planning on cage just before or after I paint the shell as well so added rigidity will help even if it is bad? Also would like input on that kind of stuff, whether to lower or raise floor to make flat-ish or leave that alltogether, whether you need to tub rear guards for what size wheel? (Until they hit guards and need tubbing) So I know how far to go without buying wheels then measuring what i've bought (Or is it already collasal like -20 offset 19x 12s will fit.) Probably will run 15x10s as well not wanting rediculous sizes. Lastly is a removable rad support roadworthy/registerable?

021.JPG

024.JPG

Next job is to strip all this cluster-f**k under the dash. Drugs_0541.gif The loom enters from both side of the firewall without connectors in between so the loom in the engine bay here026.JPG is out, but needs to be pulled through.

That will leave the interior ready to be cut, welded, maybe paint stripped then painted. w00t2.gif

Step after is the cage! Must get saving.. EmoticonAngel.gif

 

By the way this post will comprise my list and I will get started on updating as I do things/time progresses at a live pace from next post on.

 

So I found a Series2/R31 Skyline RB30e complete block inc. Block, water pump oil pump, rear main seal, sump, bolts, rotating assembly [pistons, crank, rods] crank cradle (right word?) for total of $50. thumbsup.gif

Although, that will go up when I need to take it to the machine shop to get prepped 03.gif

IN ALL IT'S GLORY!! *rust*

031.JPG035.JPG038.JPG034.JPG

Can anyone tell anything from this? Or anyone who knows what to look for is welcome to request specific engine photos040.JPG

 

I also stumbled upon what I think/thought was an absolute bargain, although I didn't get proof, receipts, etc. It was definately acid dipped, and what he said looks right as the springs etc look very new with paint marker markings etc

An RB25DET Series 2/VVT head, apparently acid dipped, decked, and rebuilt with standard nissan springs, spring seats, valves, valve seals, lifters and reground cams all by Crow Cams for $1400 he said, that sound right? It does to me

Anyway along with that work and the head itself's worth I got the lot for $750.

001.JPG002.JPG

 

So now I need to work on getting engine peripherals but mainly getting the shell prepped so as not to lose my place on anything, my memory is short, haha

 

One problem that is slightly ruining my excitement of getting it running, is where will I drive 1000~ KM's on a definately no where near rego-able (at the stage it will be when running not complete) to run in the engine? Track would be hell expensive and cruising there lol? I'd be like a 110 year old on a highway :P

I guess I could cruise around my estate for a few hours every night... shades.gif My original plan was to go 1JZ-GTE with R154 or T56, but the car came mod plated for RB25 engine, hi mount and gearbox, and what I was wondering at first was an rb25/30 so I went ahead, hearing great great things about their torque and if built stock, dyno around 200+rwkw Which I'm happy with haha

Happy with the progress though w00t2.gif

 

My plan for the engine is to build it strong, e.g. Brand name bearings, studs, nissan gasket kit, maybe o-ringed head gasket, etc. With like a stage one sort of package, intake plenum (to clear bonnet mainly), map sensor w/ standalone ecu, 040 to 2L surge and 044 and Tomei FPR, from 20L race cell (got all that atm, need the following though) with rb25 top feed rail, and some maybe 600~cc's to suit about a gt3076r, with turbo outlet sized dump and 3" straight through. Then if I thirst for more at a later date I could add uprated springs and longer dur cams for more rpm and top-end

 

 

(This post was a bit rushed, some sentences may not make sense, or long-winded, non-comma'd paragraphs, I will edit after work tonight)

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Nice pics and bad luck on the Stolen R32 sad.png

 

Keep the progress up!

Thanks bud, will do!

Yeah I still think about every morning as it's empty spot is the first thing I see ):

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Turbosmart boost tee.

Thanks, it says Boost Controller on it, but where would I adjust it? that brass thing doesn't spin, unless it needs some inox

Can I snag a little more info if you've seen it before because I've googled multiple times

 

EDIT: DERRR I just had a look at it physically which I should have, and it's got a flat head screw in a tapped hole on the left hose-less side, sweet :)

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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use a flat head screw drive and google

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you cutting out the bonnet and using a scoop for clearance for the 3l? as it will be really tight

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looks like a decent project man, I'm starting an apprenticeship this year as well so I'm going to know dem feels pretty soon :(

  • Upvote 1

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scott black

 

Posted Today, 07:04 PM

you cutting out the bonnet and using a scoop for clearance for the 3l? as it will be really tight

 

Well I do like the DMax vented bonnets that have the rear of bonnet heat sink and the big vent with like 5 tabs i think? But yeah

other than that, I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a Greddy copy plenum001.JPG

as i've heard it's just the crossover pipe that fouls yeh? Or would the front of the rocker come into play? If so can always redrill the mounts a lil lower I guess.

 

Speaking of which I have the RB30 mounts, can't get a straight answer on google threads keep going off on tangents haha, can I just fit s13 lower mounts to the 30 and that will sit normal? (40mm higher than rb25)

 

Johno333

 

 

Posted Today, 09:35 PM

 

 

looks like a decent project man, I'm starting an apprenticeship this year as well so I'm going to know dem feels pretty soon :(

 

Thanks bud, yeah first year wages are the hardest haha, you get $800 from govt in 3 months though

I finish up all my tafe by the end of this year hopefully and be qualified (Started year 10 trade school)

However I am on a stingy $12.00 an hour for 3rd year not to mention my boss never opens on public holidays etc.

 

1400R

Posted Today, 05:59 PM

use a flat head screw drive and google

 

yeh

 

 

 

011.JPG

I also forgot to mention I got the 180 for $700 as it was ono, he ended up also throwing in the surge tank and a set of fresh tread stockies

Speaking of the tank, here it is painted in that beautiful but $17 a can ceramic paint from SCA

Looks nicer in person as well, nice low sheen satin

Bosch 044010.JPG All of which I will be bolting onto a plate to tidily mount in the boot next to cell, using the stock fuel filter holder which fits around the pump.

 

On a side note, where would I be able to buy these? Only want one more, and two of the darker amber rear ones as there is holes from those USDM style lights

003.JPG

 

I'm told this is the ADM cluster faces, I'm very keen to swap anyone for standard/black/jdm? cluster faces.

002.JPG

 

Bindi helping me find bargains at 1AM online

001.JPG

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they look sick and say nismo lol... id probably swap if you want? p.m me

 

also when you said apprentice wages i just naturally assumed mechanic, but aren't those chef pants in that pic of you and your cat hurhurhurhur

Edited by Johno333

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Lol those arent ADM cluster faces... they are some poverty ebay ricer product.

 

All 180sx's are imports, none were "ADM" models

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Haha, yeah those EL faces aren't stock. I may have some black oem gauge faces from the various clusters I've disassembled, and *may* have a guard indicator, although I'm not too sure about that one. I'll check if I get a chance. If your gauges don't have a stock backing, then keep in mind that it's easy to destroy the gauges by removing the needles, which you'll have to do in order to install stock faces.

 

Man, I really need to clear out my garage. Can't walk through the one in my apartment, and my folks are tired of all the sh*t I put in theirs haha.

Edited by pmod

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pmod

 

Posted Today, 09:48 AM

Haha, yeah those EL faces aren't stock. I may have some black oem gauge faces from the various clusters I've disassembled, and *may* have a guard indicator, although I'm not too sure about that one. I'll check if I get a chance. If your gauges don't have a stock backing, then keep in mind that it's easy to destroy the gauges by removing the needles, which you'll have to do in order to install stock faces.

Man, I really need to clear out my garage. Can't walk through the one in my apartment, and my folks are tired of all the sh*t I put in theirs haha.

 

Thanks man that would be excellent, you wanna swap? Or did you mean sell me the stuff?

I just spent a long time on my desk doing it slowing and carefully and I was able to take the faces off the gauges with the needles and odo sticks still in place. Scary being on the breaking point though, hahaha

 

s13k's

 

Posted Yesterday, 11:58 PM

Lol those arent ADM cluster faces... they are some poverty ebay ricer product.

All 180sx's are imports, none were "ADM" models

 

Gettin' yourself quite worked up over there aren't you :wtf:

 

Johno333

 

Posted Yesterday, 10:20 PM

they look sick and say nismo lol... id probably swap if you want? p.m me

also when you said apprentice wages i just naturally assumed mechanic, but aren't those chef pants in that pic of you and your cat hurhurhurhur

 

Yeah chef apprentice haha, In my last year this year as I started school-based for few years My mums cat haha, can't resist it's little face, it's like a year old and tiny still hahaha

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Quick update and trying to get these first 10 posts out so I have no restrictions haha

Finally completed a trade for some boot trims of mine for a sunroof and RH door, once I bolt it on (saturday or sunday I will work on the car next, as work is extremely busy for valentines weekend [french fine dining]) the shell will be sealed off and won't have to deal with the god damn tarp hahaha.

No matter how I secure the thing down....

 

Borrowing my cousins mig on Saturday to weld up my work mates bike exhaust which rusted off 'mid-hoon' as explained ahaha, he runs a ct110 postie bike to work

So hopefully thatll be enough to blow out the cobwebs in my brain and be prepared for all that rollcage welding :\

 

Also would everyone be interested if I post parts as I buy them and their prices? I tend to think I buy quite well but with feedback, perhaps I don't

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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OK this post is a question bomb

 

Can anybody tell from the photos which crossmember I have?

I've just been up late again before I realised the time and from what I can figure, it's the r32 one I want because of the slighty longer wing flap things for engine mount.

Is there a number somewhere on it I can google?

 

015.JPG

 

Can't really get a straight answer for these 2 questions as well

 

What is the step by step after r32 crossmember to mount engine? rb "mounts" (The bushes bit) then rb30 metal brackets?

 

It's the s13 AUTO box mount to use for rb25 box? Also been told to use the "C" type, is that the auto one?

 

EDIT: more evidence points towards 32 member as the s13's generally (from google images) look sleeker, thinner and more straight than the beefier C-ish shaped 32 member

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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cant really help on the cross member part, although i do have a spare r32 member at work i can measure up for the front one,

To mount a rb into a s13 chasis i know you need to use either

a r32 (same as a31) front crossmember with the metal mount brackets on the engine block from an r32/a31 or

a r33 front crossmember with the alloy mount brackets from an r33 on the block

 

as for the rubber mounts themself, you could use standard from the car combination you use eg r32 for the r32 crossmember, or look threw kelpros site (http://www.motospecs..._Mounts_Ed8(V8s).PDF) for a mount that the studs are pretty much directly inline and have the height you need

however depending on the swaybar you use if you use mounts that sit to low (lower than like 60mm) you might fowl on the swaybar (an a31 swaybar should fit fine however)

 

as for the gearbox xmember, if you use the r33 rb25det gearbox (the good 25 box) you need a custom/modified gearbox crossmember and a custom tailshaft

 

if you use the weak rb20det box from an r32 that will most likly be blown to bits behind a rb30 then you can use i think the c crossmember and standard 5 speed tailshaft

 

and yeah it is the cross over pipe that hits, well for me it was the throttle body, the freddy plenum helped soo much. i got mine off dhgate pretty cheap

http://www.dhgate.com/product/tansky-manifolds-nissan-rb25-ecr33-sandblasting/154091712.html#myaccount_orderdetail-1-null

yet hes sold out atm

Edited by scott black
  • Upvote 1

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Thanks mate can you measure L and Width of the tabs where motor mounts go, and the middle bar

Will post specs of whatever mine is soon I am heading to work on her now

 

So the AUTO box crossmember is unrelated?

Would like a link to cheap mount kits if anyone has

That fake greddy plenum is an unbelievable price, hope he stocks up again (:

 

Just clarifying, you put the rubber mounts onto the block and brackets on the member?

Or reverse of that

 

So a31 swaybay will be going on the list, as it's the only thing the shell didn't come with haha (front)

is r32 also the same as a31 swaybar?

 

EDIT: Heading off right now, hopefully I'll get enough light to get the dash guts and therefore looms out, take the rear subframe+arms off and fuel tank and whatevers left in sight, and she'll be covered up and ready for my return to start painting it. Is it a good Idea to strip all the paint with stripper (not every last bit with a grinder and shit) and prepare surface then paint? Or just rough up the coat and paint? I ask due to weight

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Reverse of that..

Metal braket onto motor and mounts on the member.

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Reverse of that..

Metal braket onto motor and mounts on the member.

 

Ah thank you, makes good sense that way

 

So my phone was dead so I couldn't take photos, but I have got the engine loom out (out and into the cabin not completely out) and all the dash loom / a/c shit, -25KG's :D

So I'm heading there early (for me) tomorrow morning to finish off taking the body loom and engine loom out, and any other brackets and do-dads.

 

Ready for me to then remove the rear subframe and fuel tank, and paint time very soon :hypo:

 

EDIT: Today was SOOOO DANG HOTT arhh, dropping with sweat, thought I had to have a break at one point

silly thought

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Bindi ftw biggrin.png

 

Nicest cat haha (:

Always runs up to you for a pat

 

Anyways I'm so pumped the shell is almost bare, got a lot of tasty parts ready to go on which I shall take photos of tonight and post, like Tein adjustable rack ends brand new tie rods ends, cradle spacers, solid steering bush, and blah blah

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R32 sway bar is different to the a31 as the a31 has struts like the s13 and a swaybar mounted to the lca yet the r32 uses double wish bone front suspention with the swaybar mounted to the uprights.

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R32 sway bar is different to the a31 as the a31 has struts like the s13 and a swaybar mounted to the lca yet the r32 uses double wish bone front suspention with the swaybar mounted to the uprights.

 

Thanks perfect info man, end up measuring the member or no work Sunday?

 

EDIT: Phone ran out today and missed pickup $200 for brand new Hardrace front and rear 5 stud hubs w/ brand new studs and wheel bearings (Total $950)

Hopefully get onto him tomorrow, got another day off luckily.

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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Got today off and heading to yard to work on 180sx again :D

Also said I got tomorrow off, not sure if I'll take it cuz that will cut my pay check a bit much :\ but I could have a lot of hours available which is good

Hubs guy responded fine and picking up at 5pm, gonna have the schmickest hubs around. :thumbsup:

 

What I will do is take photos for yesterday before I do anything today, and completely remove the body and engine loom so I can get it all sorted...... :puke::hammer:

 

and if I get it done quick enough after I grab the hubs today I'll detour to Bunnings and grab a bit of sheet metal so I can finish making the rear quarter windows.

Which also reminds me to take out the rear passenger quarter glass :\ Going for bike brake cable, and bracing the glass with thread tape wish me luck!

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Hey guys, here's the photos from yesterday.

 

005.JPG

No more loom on this side, turns out the connectors needing disconnecting to remove one side was only 3 medium ones near the a/c gear :whistle:

 

Dad got this dingo for cheap as, I'd get my bargain hunting from him hahaha.

008.JPG

I raised it to here (higher and it started tipping, shit my pants hahaha) to take some helicopter photos :quagmire:

Here's the engine bay,

006.JPG

Loom need the relays removed to pull box and cables through the other side hole, then just easy stuff like front reo, lights, horns and all the plates will be removed for painting. About 45 mins cruisy work.

 

This was just an extra since I was up there

007.JPG

 

Stoked with the lack of sunroof sill rust! :wub:

009.JPG

Inside needs a blow out tomorrow haha, almost ready for the dreaded sound deadener removal

 

Pull loom through here

010.JPG

I disconnected the very expensive headlight loom today, legit took me 15 minutes a side.

Very dirty and brittle, trying their hardest to snap on me.

I won, they're disconnected and in perfect condition.

Connecting won't harm them for sure

 

Interior floor, here's the body loom that needs to come out, and the steering column + handbrake as I now have the rear jacked up to the first notch on SCA jack stands. Front are maxed height, ran out of daylight, will max out the back tomorrow to have plenty of room to remove the subframe

011.JPG

 

I like this photo, starting to look very racecar :quagmire:

012.JPG

 

Firewall carpet shit removed for weight and what blasphemist would block out any RB symphony to the ears anyway?

Should use the big hole to have a straight dump pipe then out the passenger quarter :rolleyes:

 

Looking pretty naked

013.JPG

She's sexy though

 

 

WHAT THE f**k ANIMAL IS THIS

014.JPG

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continued

 

Here's some s13 coilovers with R31 strut tops on, the guy also gave me the S13 tops for the fronts.

022.JPG

They are leaky at the front and struts are broken at the back, but they hold a car up, and the price was Free.99, just had to pickup.

So these are perfect for once I finish cleaning up the subframe and crossmembers, so I can get it more than 40mm away from the ground due to worrying about rust forming from the water halding grass/dirt or snakes, they're bad too.

 

Window nets

023.JPG

I seen these on Facebook for only $20 so I snagged them, I know they're the ebay ones, but on ebay they're $45 each + shipping.

The reason I have them is so I can unbolt the glass from the doors and not have any shit fly in and try to mess up my cage or helmet. Or me, :thumbsup:

 

Here are the engine bay fuse/relay boxes. I will be mounting them internally, hopefully stock loom length will let me put under the dash where glove box would be.

027.JPG

The writing is almost unreadable so I brought them home to paint the tops and rewrite the names with paint pen, will post results.

Dad was veeery skeptical hahahaha

 

Here are the Hardrace 5-stud hubs I picked up today

024.JPG

They come with high tensile new wheel studs, and new s13 wheel bearings, the unit fits to S13 knuckles

 

Pretty

015.JPG

 

Here's a group photo, numbers have description below

016.JPG

1. Brand new Nissan OEM Tie rod ends x 2

2. old style, used, good cond. Tein adjustable rack ends, 75mm of thread so I'll be using 30mm over stock (45mm left) for safety

3. Brand new Nissan OEM Rack boots x 2

4. used, good cond. probably eBay S13 boss kit

5. Tomei FPR with hose and RB25 adapter, so I have that and the sard. *see below

6. Nulon Coolant, makes 10L. Bought for my skyline and got stolen soo.. Got this already I guess lol

7. Battery box, slip off lid style

8. Engine oil cooler (Came with RB30 block for free)

9. Autometer Pro-lite Comp series boost gauge -30 +20 (Came on floor of shell (: Found the light for it as well in the loom)

10. 1980s Turbo timer, bought for $5 off Facebook, picked up near work at the end one night. Good cond still!

11. like 80-90% Bendix ultimate rear Z32 pads (Came with brakes and the same pads and cond on front)

12. Z32 rear 2-pot caliper, a photo to represent the set of 2 pot rears, 4-pot fronts Z32 brakes. I went for Z32 as they only weigh a tad more but have cooling fins on them. Also came with rotors but are not flash. Will machine them myself at least before driving on them, on the list to upgrade though for sure. I bought them for 2x of my (other two were steers on stolen 32) Ozzy racing RSGT's 18x7.5+42 with 80% Achilles ATR tread, the set came on my skyline.

13. Forgot to write 13, but is the alloy steering lock spacer for the pinion. I have one more if somebody is interested in the not so cheap but cheaper than GKtech (34 + ship) $30 pickup at Ormeau QLD [brand new cond]

 

edit: all the other stuff I bought in a package (in the battery box) for $60! :hypo:

 

Close-up of the boost gauge and the rest.

019.JPG

Can see the spacer here and more details of other items.

Edited by Daniel Brečević

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nice dude! i can see this quickly turning into one of the bigger money pits here :P all the best with the build!

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nice dude! i can see this quickly turning into one of the bigger money pits here :P all the best with the build!

 

Thanks haha and I hope not, my original plan was $5000 and one year (to be on open licence)

It's looking more like 3 months and a bit more money haha

 

Within April the government has called and said i will be getting the grants for apprentice I missed out on; $1,000 and $1,400 so that'll be update time for sure.

25 Box GT3037 etc p;

 

On another note I found a used 38mm Turbosmart gate for $100 being delivered in about a week when old mate comes down :D

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