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Ls coils

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hey im looking into ls coils for my blacktop sr20 and i cant seem find a lot of info on how they are a good upgrade. can anyone shed some light on how these will be a benefit? and can they be run on a nistune ecu?

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what do you mean by upgrade?

if your old ones are playing up, just get another set of genuine ones. will be good for another 10-15 years.

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As in why do people change over to using these? I've seen some high power sr20s with this set up and I couldn't find a lot of info on why they went this route over splitfires and what not. I'm almost finished building my sr20 and I'm pretty sure my stock ones will handle the power but if this can be done for less than splitfires id rather do the conversion now and be done with it saving the hassles of the stock coils possibly failing

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i have seen a couple rbs running them. no srs though.

 

splitfires aren't as good as the stock ones either. and there are plenty of decent power srs on this site that still run stock (new) coilpacks.

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People run 400kw or 30+psi on 15-20 year old standard coil packs. Spitfires/yellow jackets/whatever have failed out of the box. $400ish for a full set of brand new OEM coilpacks through taark, and you don't have to fart around with wiring and brackets and making shit fit or worrying about them failing after a month.

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1.1mm gap and 30psi is why people use ls2 truck coils. They're 150 for 8 of them, plus 30 for plugs.

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I upgraded to LS2 truck coils since my car was misfiring at 20psi even with plug gaps of 0.6mm and new OEM coilpacks.

I've tested it since and have been able to run 30psi with 1.1mm plug gaps with no missing. And this is on a Nistune ECU, all that needs to be done is adjust the dwell settings.

 

My setup:

2aimryx.jpg

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thanks for that d_stirls thats some good info

thats what gets me some people say theyre good for high power and its been proven but then theres cases like sw1fty

how much did it cost to do the conversion sw1fty

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any good modern COP will work the LS coils are NOT particularly strong. I make a conversion kit that fits any new toyota pencil smart-coil onto a 1JZ. Basically, any modern coilpack will produce more spark than an older coilpack. Not only are modern coilpacks more resilient but they also have to deliver a stronger spark (higher compression ratio in modern engines, need for more complete combustion to hit emission targets etc).

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As mentioned they are about $150 for a set of 8 (non-genuine) or about $50 each for genuine AC Delco/Delphi coils.

Aside from this you need the connectors for the loom and a set of leads (SR20DE work).

 

I can give more info if people are interested. There's a write up in my build thread on NSCC.

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You need to a be a club member to view the build threads. Well worth joining if you're in NSW and into circuit http://www.nissansportscarclub.org/

 

Copied from my build thread:

 

 

 

Since the new coils have integrated ignitor chips, you need to remove the stock ignitor chip by joining the input and output wires, thereby bypassing the ignitor.

Here's a pic of the stock ignitor showing the labelled pins.

 

Nissan_IgnitorChip_SR20_01.jpg

 

Wire going to pin I1 needs to be soldered to the wire going to pin E1. Similarly I2 -> E2, etc. so you have:

I1 -> E1

I2 -> E2

I3 -> E3

I4 -> E4

 

You are left with the wire going to pin G which is a ground wire for the coils. I made my own grounds to the chassis and engine so I just taped this wire up and left it.

 

I then redid the wiring loom and used the connector for the stock coil pack harness so it is plug and play.

Each coil needs 2 grounds, a 12V input and a signal from the ECU to control the spark.

I got the 12V power from the coil packs and the ignition signals for each coil from this plug. For the grounds I joined the wires from each coil to make 2 separate grounds, one to the chassis and one to the back of the engine.

 

Here's how the coils are wired up, from the Megasquirt site:

ls2coil.gif

 

Here's my harness before wrapping, you can see the 2 separate ground wires with ring terminals.

j98v81.jpg

 

So the only thing left to do was to mount the coils. Most setups I've seen for Nissans have been located away from the spark plugs and using plug leads, such as Dan from ART's setup.

I don't like this way of doing it though since it isn't very neat looking and I don't have that much space available.

 

So I decided to mount them like the stock coils and just use a straight terminal from the coil pack to the spark plug. I used 2 straight spark plug terminals and joined them together to make a long terminal to clip on the spark plug and the coil. I bought MSD straight boots and terminals for this, the terminal is insulated inside the boot.

I made small L brackets so they bolt to the same spot as the stock coils.

29xucud.jpg

 

Compared to stock:

10eocn5.jpg

 

Here's what the complete setup looks like with the loom wrapped up:

2aimryx.jpg

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Did you just mount both ring terminals to the motor? If so, why did you bother with two ring terminals in the first place?

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Because if you mount power ground and signal ground through the same wires, the ground is elevated by the voltage drop caused by the resistance of the wires. Like if you've got 10A running through a wire which has a resistance of 0.1 ohm over that distance (insanely exaggerated) you'll get a voltage drop of about 1V... that means your coilpack igniter is going to see 4v from the ecu instead of 5v, the waveform will be supressed by that 1V and the coil will not fire exactly as commanded to.

 

In reality, voltage drop is more like a few mV; but this can have a huge impact on sensors that mostly operated on very small currents/voltages. My first attempt at wiring up a wideband o2 sensor, I had the grounds separated but not enough. My wideband reading would vary by about 1 AFR depending on my power draw at the time - this was a really big problem! (the fuel map would change every time I had the thermos or headlights on/off).

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yeah they'll work... they're not the same as the ones used above but they're close enough that it doesn't matter.

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Did you just mount both ring terminals to the motor? If so, why did you bother with two ring terminals in the first place?

 

One is to the motor, one to the firewall (chassis).

 

My coils are LS2 truck coils, the model is D585.

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better off grounding what you can to the engine block, since it's the true ground. chassis ground will have a (tiny) voltage difference to the engine ground

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wouldnt it be easier to just run like a AEM or denso coil ?

DSC02573.jpg

edit: forgot its a CDI setup so wont work with nistune or powerfc

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yes it IS easier to run pencil coils that fit but people get caught up in all the "omg truck coils" circlejerk :P

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i did a pile of research on this a while ago and arrived at LS2/truck coil (AC Delco D585) was the weapon of choice

there are a few threads around, this is also an interesting read

 

http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm

 

and this

 

http://forums.nicoclub.com/ls2-truck-coil-swap-t478565.html

 

keep an eye out for the coil with the heatsink on the top.

 

in the end i decided against it as i'll probably run up to 20lb boost which will be fine with standard coils

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The truck coil is popular but it is not the best... people just keep recycling the same old comparisons around! The LS2 coils are totally average compared to modern COPs... that doesn't mean that they're bad or unsuitable: it means they're average, normal, equal. Modern COPs are far more reliable (better design, better insulation, physically newer) and produce an equally impressive spark... they have to! Modern cars don't hit tight emission targets on very high compression motors without having a huge spark to guarantee complete combustion.

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wouldnt it be easier to just run like a AEM or denso coil ?

DSC02573.jpg

edit: forgot its a CDI setup so wont work with nistune or powerfc

 

M & W CDI works with almost any config , for certain set up you will need to order the correct box but they are universal in most

 

they can be ordered or configured to run falling or rising edge trigger to suit most oem sensors ( hall effect optical or reluctor)

 

I have run M&W with factory ecu's nissan (nistune) and mitsubishi

 

I have run a basic 2 channel M&W pro 12 with apexi power fc in my own car using the factory inductive coils with reversed polarity in waste spark got to 320kw and the factory coilpacks just didn't have what it needed and Waste spark has half the amount of available charge time as opposed to a full sequential system

 

The pro12 has 2 power modes 115mj/150mj that would be with the recommended coil and not stock items in reverse polarity

 

so i went the pro drag 4 full sequential with bosch 717 coils and custom 8mm magnacor leads capable of 250 mj

 

the blue furry sparks that come out of the leads are scary and then can kill. but you could probably use it to restart your heart like a defibrillator

 

M&W released the pro drag 500 which puts out a whooping 500mj they will only sell these units to pro installers and most people wouldn't need them and anything over 4

coils you need to run 2 boxes :no:

 

they also double as a mobile welder if your game enough to hook up a earth lead and torch,

 

I'm surprised more people don't use M&W , it's a great aussie made product the owner wayne is a ignition guru and great guy to deal with but if your a noob you will get flamed

 

they also make motec's CDI boxes

 

I have been using M&W for 5-6 years and i wouldn't use anything else, keep the dollar in oz especially if the product is the best in the world anyway

 

M&W have all the power ratings in plain site for everyone to see on their website because they are real, all the other muppets claim big power more spark blah blah but they don't have mj figures .

 

I'm not saying other system don't work but bang for buck M&W is my choice and you can't go past Waynes honesty that goes a long way in business.

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Why not run Mercury Marine IGN-1A coils, that shit on the LS ones in every way?

 

http://www.lms-efi.c...uct_detail&p=46

 

must be run with a cdi box they are not an inductive coil ,

 

they are a awsome coil pack and a very reliable coil that's why the use them on marine engines , also ideal for off road and rally vehicles exposed to muddy, wet, harsh conditions

 

you wouldn't wana be out in the middle of the ocean running R34 N/A coils that's for sure

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