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moss

My 180SX, Type X rep now with an RB30ET!

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how is a twin cam head pointless?..

you should tell those amateurs at ripz about it

I like the build nonetheless :) very neat

 

 

i think he means its pointless for what he wants

his not aiming at making massive power trying to break records and it really is a budget build going off the parts his using

 

This guy gets it! I have bit of an update to come later, unfortunately forgot to take photos :/

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wow you have alot of wheels man. you buy and sell or just keep them all and change them around like undies? haha

 

also. very clean car man. crystal tail lights looks awesome on black. good job :thumb:

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Haha I don't really have that many sets by drifters standards, but I am looking to sell the XXRs soon to fund new 18" skidders when the meisters go back on.

 

Speaking of taillights, I've swapped out the crystal items for a set of Type X lights. Bought them from one of the HnR guys, and was massively f**ked around on them, with him taking a couple of months and a big facebook blow up before he actually sent them. Anyways, I got them, and they were missing the plugs for the globes which I was a bit pissed off about, and also one of the lenses was cracked (I at least knew about the lens). Lucky a mate of mine down at Nissan got me a brand spankers light and the plugs I needed at a good price. Worth mentioning at this point that Type X plugs wont plug into the older looms, so had to do some cut and soldering, but its just a simple job of matching colours.

 

2l97cqe.jpg

 

Haven't 100% sold myself on the X lights yet but I've always like the ones on my mates car more than the older ones, maybe because they look more skyline.

 

Haven't done much other than that lately, I got some coil pack plugs to replace the eBay ones I bought which were pre made and are falling apart, hopefully I can make these new ones myself a bit stronger. I bought another R31 which I'm stripping for a bunch of stuff for my daily, so been busy with that mostly.

Edited by moss

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Which ones, the Type X or the crystals? The crystals are for sale and would make my decision a lot easier! PM me if you're interested.

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im after type x lights also. i think ive seen a few sets on ebaymotors. slightly cheaper but still expensive. but for now lights arent a big concern for me. got other stuff i wanna get first. ie eboost haha

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Got a chance to do a bit more on the 180 last weekend. Still flat out wrecking the other R31 but I got a chance to get the 14" R31 stockies off the back and put the XXRs back on there for now, makes the car a lot easier to jack up! The plugs I got for the coil packs turned out to be wrong so I sent them back and hopefully will get the correct ones this time around. Other tinkering involved spacing out the power steering pump a bit more to allow for a longer belt (3PK890 hopefully, over the stock 3PK875) this allows the pulley to clear the back of the fans a little better. I also noticed my turbo was sitting a bit funny and turns out I forgot to tighten it up when I put it on!

 

In other news, I ordered and received a Whiteline front swaybar, which is specifically for an S13 with RB swap. Basically its a slightly different curve to the 4cyl bars, as the main bit of the bar sits a little further forward to clear the sump. I was sceptical about it fitting given I've lowered my engine by a fair amount, but luckily it fitted ok. I got everything in place but have to tighten everything at some point this week (ran out of light, also the reason for no pics).

 

Oddly enough, I've ran into a problem with my gearbox sender that people might be able to help with. The SR manual sender didn't fit in the gearbox which was surprising (I thought it should?) so I've decided to go with an aussie R31 speedo setup, using a manual sender unit with an auto Pintara gear (4.11 ratio, same teeth as 4.08) and the aussie speedo sensor connector which is electric like an S13. Is this what people do? Unfortunately I've since sold all my s13 speedo sender units so I cant check if maybe I was having a retarded moment and they do actually fit.

 

I'll try get some pics of the swaybar this arvo, any help on the speedo deal would be much appreciated!

 

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Got the sway bar all tightened up last night, was pretty much a non event in the end which was a refreshing change. Took some pics, I left the foam padding the bar was wrapped in on to avoid scratching it, which is pretty pointless as its probably just going to get smashed into the road pretty soon.

 

9qy5uv.jpg

 

Here's a pic of the end links, note they are a different setup to the usual S13 sway bar, so I had to grind off the little cups on the LCAs which the little rubbers normally sit on.

 

2qsm4uq.jpg

 

Did a bit of hunting around yesterday, heard that CA speedo drives fit, so checked the part number against an SR... SAME! Damn, now I'll have to buy another one.

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Quick update, no pics.

 

Finally found a PS belt which will fit my setup, which is basically all R31 except the bracket has been spaced out using 3 of the thick manifold washers per bolt, and longer bolts. The new belt is a 3PK885 (stock is 855), I've been trying to get one from Repco for yonks but they have no listing, tried eBay and general searching, nothing, walked into an independent spare parts shop yesterday on a recommendation that they had 'a wall full of belts', had 3 in stock!

 

Cooler pipes are also done, my mate is just cleaning and polishing them up for me, the dump pipe has yet to be finished though. Still waiting for more coil pack plugs, gonna go harass some people about that this arvo.

 

Not much other progress, still doing heaps of stuff with the R31s. Hopefully get into it a bit over the break.

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Just thought I would let u know that manifold is not made from steam pipe

 

+1

 

I repaired cracks on one of these a few weeks ago definitely not steam pipe , 2.0 mm wall thickness at best and I'm 99% sure they are mig welded

 

 

anyone else have one of these manifolds that ended up cracking ??

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Just thought I would let u know that manifold is not made from steam pipe

 

+1

 

I repaired cracks on one of these a few weeks ago definitely not steam pipe , 2.0 mm wall thickness at best and I'm 99% sure they are mig welded

 

 

anyone else have one of these manifolds that ended up cracking ??

The worst is when it cracks from the inside and pieces of the manifold go through the turbo

Turns costly very quick

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I have a few mates that have run these manifolds with no issues, so its probably swings and roundabouts like most things. The good bit about having to modify it was that it gave me a chance to check the insides of the welds to make sure none of that crap was going on, so hopefully I won't have any problems, and we added some braces to hopefully help prevent cracking.

 

Been a while since I last posted and a lot has been going down. Most of it involved moving house which put the brakes on the project a bit, and a few others things over Christmas / January, holidays, spending a few days on maintenance stuff with the R31 instead of the 180 and also having to go back to work a week earlier than expected.

 

Old mate 31 towing the 180. The new house is about 5 minutes from the old house, max speed of 60kmh, which the R31 had no problems managing:

xkvhvl.jpg

 

To trace back to where I was, which was pretty much trying to get it started, I was having issues with the coilpacks not firing. Since there isn't much knowledge around with using LS2 coilpacks with Nistunes (mostly the different dwell times required) I decided to flag the coilpacks for the tried and true AU coilpack conversion. I scored a coil and harness plug from Pick n Payless for $60 with warranty, off a S1 AU (Apparently the S2-3 ones are a little better, there was ~20 cars to choose from but this one had an LPG conversion using a carby manifold which made access heaps easier so I went with it). As these coils aren't self igniting, I dug through the shed and found an RB25 ignitor from my RB25 head setup and bought some appropriate plugs from a wrecker. I've mounted them on a bracket which I made (I'm not very good at welding but I'm slowly learning so be nice!)

 

AU Coil:

zu1sgh.jpg

 

RB25 Ignitor:

2aipied.jpg

 

With the ignition supposedly sorted, the car still wouldn't spark, despite testing all the individual components which were fine. After a few days of testing we found out that the injectors weren't firing correctly, giving 2 good pulses but then dying off. I decided it was time to seek some help, so I contacted Decs at Garage7 in Adelaide who had been giving me advice on various parts of the RB20 loom on RB30 deal. I boxed up the loom and all the sensors and sent everything his way. Not surprisingly, he quickly traced the issue to the relays being wired incorrectly (all of that stuff had been cut off when I got the loom). He fixed a couple of other minor things and tested all the sensors to ensure everything was good.

 

6p5ft2.jpg

 

I got the loom back and threw it all in, still no start. I spoke to Decs, who then told me that I had to ignore the factory settings for the CAS and set it by hand. Voila! IT STARTED! Ran OK too, albeit very retarded. The fuel rail leaked so I replaced it with an Aeroflow item. It also had a leaking water pump which I was expecting given the discolouring (ie. surface rust) around the water pump area. I took the opportunity to do the timing belt and clean up the front covers, luckily the cam was a few teeth out so I reset it. It runs a lot nicer now with the reset cam but I still need to adjust the base timing and idle once its all hooked up, and I get a new timing light that works!

 

Along the way I managed to fit my digital dash (swapped it for the old CA lip), still to fit the HUD part. Hope it all works! I removed the plastic screen but I need to buy a new one, couldn't see through the old one.

 

o7nift.jpg

 

I'm in the last stages of finalising some things and generally neatening stuff up, shortening the ignition wires for the AU coil as well as remaking the idle motor pipe out of steel and a slight change in intercooler piping. I might pull the rocker cover off and paint it as well if I get time.

 

Current aim is for powercruise in March, I'm almost there but there's still a lot of work to do. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress. Distractions like this aren't helping!

 

20h59gx.jpg

 

Thanks for looking!

Edited by moss

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Few quick notes:

 

- Played around with timing, managed to get to 15BTDC, which is factory, it idles and revs ok, but the tune is still VERY fuely, cant rev it much over 2500rpm without it blowing the spark out and misfiring.

- Have a small issue with the car not turning off, you have disconnect the EGI relay to turn the car off. Its not key barrel related, seems disconnecting either plug at the front right corner of the engine bay for the engine loom also turns the car off (i.e. also cuts power) I'm guessing a back feed of power somewhere, possibly in the ignition switch circuit?

- Alarm is being temperamental, typical.

 

Borrowing some steer tyres off a mate today, I'll try get some pics up.

 

If there are any budding electricians out there any ideas on my above issues would be lovely!

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Quick update on the proceedings:

 

The aforementioned electrical issues have been solved, my turbo partially melted the engine loom heading to the front of the engine. I've got a heat shield in there now so it should be fine. For anyone who needs to make heat shields, I recommend the 'XR6 turbo style' heat shield which you can buy in sheets from Repco. Its very easy to work with, basically being two pressed sheets of metal with some insulation in between.

 

Got the new wheels fitted, I'm not sure of the model but they are made by Impul. They are very BBS style, and are 3 piece. Size is 17x9+38 I believe (unsure on offset) and I'm using spacers on the front. Tyres are Yokohama Db Decibels, we'll see how they go, the mesh look is growing on me!

 

Excuse the ratty blankets, we had a hailstorm scare!

1zvewi1.jpg

 

2v84x2q.jpg

 

Had a few dramas with some sensors, my AFM and o2 sensor weren't giving feedback to the ECU. This went 50/50, with the AFM being a simple crossing of some wires (you try building a loom with your grandfather in law standing over your shoulder trying to give 'advice'!), and a dud o2 sensor, luckily I had a couple of spares.

 

Another thing I had to add to the loom was some resistors in place of the knock sensors. I had initially skipped this because I thought it was possible to switch off the knock sensors in the RB20 ECU (I could in the SR one) but unfortunately not. This was pretty straight forward just adding a 470k resistor to each knock pin then grounding both.

 

Played a bit more with the tune found out that the car wouldn't idle because there wasn't enough fuel being injected! Turned up the latency for the injectors as a temporary fix, and got the car to a stage where it could drive. I took the car for a spin to my mates place on the other side of my suburb and back, the car went pretty good all things considered. I'll probably need a wideband for any further tuning, I should be getting one on the weekend, but the car will be dyno tuned properly anyway pretty soon. In the meantime I need to fix some exhaust leaks and also replace my alternator which isn't charging at the moment. This could be affecting the ignition system slightly so its something I need to deal with sooner rather than later.

 

I always reward good work, so for a treat, the 180 is now back in the shed! We have some pretty steep driveways, too steep to push the car in there before. Sorry for the mess, I've been so busy on the car I haven't bothered unpacking anything yet!

 

xqg9j5.jpg

 

Sorry for the rubbish photos too, I think I was a bit excited hahaha

Edited by moss

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Another update, I fixed a few issues the car had prior to the tune, including some exhaust leaks (pretty straight forward) and replacing the alternator, quick note with replacing the alternator, I got a little bit fancy, combining the front housing off an RB30 bosch alternator with the rest of a HQ holden 120A unit. Obviously this gives me a greatly increased capacity over the stock RB26 80A unit which I had on there, and was easy to wire up, requiring only a power, earth and charge light wire, all from the existing wiring (there is also a 12V switching wire in a standard loom which excites the alternator, this wasn't required for me). The unit pretty much bolted up as per normal, except the bottom mounting bolt had to be swapped out for a slightly shorter one (the HQ rear housing doesn't have a bracket on it like the RB30 ones). The high amperage should provide trouble free motoring while operating two electric fans, air conditioning, stereo and lighting simultaneously.

 

Final mod before the tuners was a quick engine bay clean up, gave various items a quick polish and a mate painted the rocker cover and strut tops. Looks much more presentable now! I'm going to make an airbox this weekend, good way to avoid trouble. (I actually did a few more things after this photo, fitted the timing cover, hid the ignition leads, changed the air filter and a couple of other things)

 

28h332p.jpg

 

By now I'd driven the car a few times, and it had become apparent that I'd been ripped off with my gearbox purchase, with my "fresh recoed" RB20DET box unable to fully select 2nd, 4th and reverse, and not being able to get fifth at all. Luckily I had a spare box which thanks to a mate with a hoist was swapped in with haste. In the process I worked out that I'd hooked up the reverse lights with the wrong switch (I'd used a neutral switch, which is longer and hence was permanently engaged), so now I also have working lights. Bonus!

 

Before the swap I snapped some pics in the car park.

 

kbqae9.jpg

 

r1bzo2.jpg

 

w0rtw3.jpg

 

Unfortunately there was a sour note, getting stuck at a bad driveway with an impatient lady in another car I kinked my fresh guard, happy days :/

 

es24k3.jpg

 

I pulled that sucker out, making a mess of the guard in the process (I was pretty frustrated) but nevertheless the next week the car made it to the tuners. The work was carried out by Ultimate Tunes in Phillip, and I would recommend them based on my experience (this was my first time dealing with them). They were a very friendly and helpful bunch and very easy to work with. They touched up a few things, namely an incorrectly adjusted TPS (which I had replaced but forgot to set) and a few seals on the injectors were sucking air through to the inlet ports (doh!).

 

They then checked the ignition and readjusted the AFM and Fuel maps as per my request, and the car ended up making 184rwkW on just 8.4PSI, with the standard spring in the gate. I was pretty happy with this for now (already 20 extra kWs than my old SR on half the boost) so we didn't push it any further. I've driven it around for a few days since then and have encountered a few teething problems, firstly, the oil I used was too thin (changed from 15w50 to 25w60) which had low oil pressure at times and was making the lifters noisy.

 

The second problem is the dreaded overheating problem that plagues all RB swaps. At the moment I have a few ideas on this, including:

 

-Changing from 52 to 40mm radiator to allow more room between the radiator and the engine. This will involve another coolant flush and I'll use a water wetter for better cooling.

-Building an under tray, from the front bar to the rad support (possibly to the cross member if necessary).

-Remove the Nismo 68 degree thermostat, replace with a standard genuine item.

-Remove the weather strip at the back of the engine bay, I actually did this already and it seemed to make no difference to the running temp but the engine bay was a bit cooler.

-Change the fan setup. I'm going to try sneak an SR20 clutch fan and GKtech fan (or standard SR depending on what fits) and then make a shroud, if that doesn't fit my second choice is some falcon thermos, if they don't fit I'll try making a shroud for my existing fans.

-Cut out the numberplate section of the stock Type X bar, seen this done on a few cars and with my slim numberplate should give me a nice opening.

-If all else fails a second vented bonnet, which I may get anyway for track days.

 

At the moment the temp is reaching 100 degrees on an off boost ~15 minute drive in 25 degree afternoon weather. In the Canberra mornings or cold nights the car wont go over 90, but the temp climbs pretty quickly under boost or when climbing hills. While that may not be that bad, it is my understanding that most RBs should run in the 80-90 range in most conditions, and overheating while putting around to and from work is not good when you plan to drift in Goulburn during summer.

 

One week till powercruise today!

Edited by moss

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No way you can fit au thermos (you need 10cm to fit them) and no room to fit clutchfan and shroud without moving the rad forward.

Removing the rear weather strip is detrimental too.

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Did some moves on the weekend regarding this cooling issue. Heres what I've done so far:

 

- Built a tidy under tray just out of some corrugated plastic sheet, simply cable tied to the bottom of the rad support and bumper. Fairly straight forward and nothing special. The top cover I wrapped black with vinyl, the bottom was left white.

 

mc9q95.jpg

 

1118mdv.jpg

 

- Replaced the thermostat, my mate had trouble getting a Nissan thermostat so I just used a Dayco item which was within 0.5 degrees of the Nissan one anyway. Fairly straight forward swap (no leaks, no pics). I also replaced the 1.1 bar radiator cap with a 0.9 one, as the old one wasn't opening when the car got hot. I think these two mods (unmods?) made the best improvement.

 

-As blingcommander has suggested the weather strip move was a waste of time!

 

-Haven't changed the fan setup yet. Couldn't get the Falcon thermos in (again as blingcommander said :) ) but I did manage to fit a stock SR clutch fan in with a stock R32 radiator. The fan was rubbing on the bottom tank so I didn't properly install it, but I'm hoping with the GKTech fan the blades taper away from the radiator enough to have clearance. My radiator is currently mounted with the top mounts pulled forward as much as possible without hitting the AC condenser. No pics as of yet, I'll wait till the GKTech fan comes then I'll try mount it with the 40mm I ordered and go from there.

 

-Made a good opening in the front bumper, should give a real nice increase and I can remove the numberplate at the track for more flow if needed.

 

2ptdwcl.jpg

 

14jb9lx.jpg

 

I wanted to test these items one at a time to record their benefits, unfortunately time was against me so I just had to take a big swing and do everything at once. I'm still running the 52mm radiator with the twin 12" thermos, but already the issue is pretty much sorted. Driving the car around since then hasn't gotten over 80-85 in normal conditions and 90 max when giving it some jandal. Temperatures here vary a fair bit, but over the last few days its seen mostly 15-25 degree weather, so not the hottest it could be but pretty average. Should be good enough for powercruise which only requires short bursts of power (and it might rain anyway).

 

I also had to fix the hot/cold slider motor for the heater unit, which randomly stopped working, and also the accelerator cable end piece broke off this morning on the way to work which was awesome!

 

 

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Did some moves on the weekend regarding this cooling issue. Heres what I've done so far: - Built a tidy under tray just out of some corrugated plastic sheet, simply cable tied to the bottom of the rad support and bumper. Fairly straight forward and nothing special. The top cover I wrapped black with vinyl, the bottom was left white. mc9q95.jpg1118mdv.jpg - Replaced the thermostat, my mate had trouble getting a Nissan thermostat so I just used a Dayco item which was within 0.5 degrees of the Nissan one anyway. Fairly straight forward swap (no leaks, no pics). I also replaced the 1.1 bar radiator cap with a 0.9 one, as the old one wasn't opening when the car got hot. I think these two mods (unmods?) made the best improvement. -As blingcommander has suggested the weather strip move was a waste of time! -Haven't changed the fan setup yet. Couldn't get the Falcon thermos in (again as blingcommander said :) ) but I did manage to fit a stock SR clutch fan in with a stock R32 radiator. The fan was rubbing on the bottom tank so I didn't properly install it, but I'm hoping with the GKTech fan the blades taper away from the radiator enough to have clearance. My radiator is currently mounted with the top mounts pulled forward as much as possible without hitting the AC condenser. No pics as of yet, I'll wait till the GKTech fan comes then I'll try mount it with the 40mm I ordered and go from there. -Made a good opening in the front bumper, should give a real nice increase and I can remove the numberplate at the track for more flow if needed. 2ptdwcl.jpg14jb9lx.jpg I wanted to test these items one at a time to record their benefits, unfortunately time was against me so I just had to take a big swing and do everything at once. I'm still running the 52mm radiator with the twin 12" thermos, but already the issue is pretty much sorted. Driving the car around since then hasn't gotten over 80-85 in normal conditions and 90 max when giving it some jandal. Temperatures here vary a fair bit, but over the last few days its seen mostly 15-25 degree weather, so not the hottest it could be but pretty average. Should be good enough for powercruise which only requires short bursts of power (and it might rain anyway). I also had to fix the hot/cold slider motor for the heater unit, which randomly stopped working, and also the accelerator cable end piece broke off this morning on the way to work which was awesome!

 

 

i like that dude, looks like it would work quite well!!!

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Hi everyone, here is a picture of my RB30ET powered vehicle in the line up at Powercruise on the weekend:

 

207sxls.jpg

 

I know what you're thinking, yep that's not a 180SX.

 

 

 

I was feeling pretty good about how everything was going on the car, come Thursday night I was all but ready, having loaded the car with a couple of spare wheels, my laptop and all the other bits I needed. On Friday morning I decided to go to the car wash to wash the car before the event, since that seemed to work out alright for the tune. After the car wash I drove the car up and down the highway to blow dry the water off. On the way back, just as I came to the top of a hill, I heard a familiar old noise. It was that of a bottom end knock. Instantly my heart sank, I drove home and idled the car in the shed to check the noise. Sure enough, it had a slight knock when free revving, I'm guessing at around 2500rpm.

 

Obviously this killed my plans for powercruise, and I was left with no choice but to once again rely on my trusty old R31 sedan to drive to and enter powercruise.

 

Quick word on powercruise. A lot of import people think that PC is a bogan event, similar to Summernats. PC is NOTHING like Summernats. The variety of cars is what makes PC, and the mateship between guys that own completely different styles of cars often grows strong at PC events. Its not uncommon to see an S13 racing hard on the straight against a big block Torana, or even sliding through the corners. Quite a few of my mates own v8 commodores and xr6 turbos, and this is really the only event where we can all enter and enjoy each others cars. At this event there was a substantial drifting segment which was poorly run for the most part by the ADGP folks. There was a lot of long delays and miss information on them and it made entering events and knowing where to go very difficult. Regardless, still a fun event, and cheaper than matsuri. If you haven't checked it out, you are certainly missing out!

 

Back to the 180, well I have no choice but look forward to the future, which means pulling out the driveline again to replace the motor. The problem is mostly my fault, the engine I had installed was sitting in the backyard for several years in the open, I intended to pull the motor back out and pull it down but once I started making progress on the engine swap I thought I would just see how it went. No matter, you win some you lose some, and I have another RB30 engine which I will recondition before chucking it back in, but not before I add some more go fast bits. Its time to add more boost and do it properly this time!

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Man that sucks to hear!! Hope you can get it up and running soon.

how much have you spend on the build so far? and worth doing? I've got a VL turbo and was thinking of this exact conversion when I came across your thread.

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