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revhead90

How do I PROPERLY fit a boost gauge?

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Ok so my s15 Spec R GT (Aus) is finally road worthy and serviced ect so I want to start setting up some supporting equipment for when I install a EBC and up the boost a tiny bit, and fit some form of tunning hand controller/nistune/some other ecu used for tuning (suggestions on this would be helpful too but it’s off topic stuff). I already have a turbo back exhaust

I have done plenty of research on how to install boost gauges and I have the knowledge and knowhow for how to do it but unfortunately for me I’m a perfectionist and I must do it right the first time.

I have read others guides on how to install a boost gauge and they mention they used one of many vacuum lines, and all sorts of guides say to use different vacuum lines for different pros and cons.

Firstly I want to do this properly and safe with little risk to the rest of the car (T piece failing on fuel regulator line cause leaks and fuelling issues being an example)

Which line SHOULD I use? Is there just one possible line that can be used for max engine safety and accurate boost readings? Of the JDM models that had a boost gauge from factory, where did they plumb their lines too? Ideally I would want to mimic what came out of the factory.

Any help would be great, cheers.

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That is a good idea, thanks. Haven’t had much time under the bonnet yet so will check soon! But I’m assuming there isn’t as it would have been mentioned in just about all the boost gauge install pages I have read?

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Just tee into the fuel reg line ffs. If you do a good job youve got just as much chance of the original hose perishing and failing as you do a t piece failing

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Use a vacuum line from the inlet manifold, so it'll read vacuum as well as boost. If you use a line before the throttle body you won't read vacuum. No biggy, but yeah. Helps you identify leak problems.

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If you don't like the look of gauges then the e boost street has digital boost readout

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There are ports on the throttle body both before and after the butterfly. Choose wisely.

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Hey revhead as already posted tee into a line off the manifold and although people have stated to use the fpr line i would not and have always preferred a dedicated line to the fpr (either way if done correctly will be fine). Always put a small cable tie on as well to remove any chance of a line blowing off.

 

Re off topic ecu, hand controllers are only good to act as additional gauges, serious tuning via hand controller is a chumps game. Whatever ecu you choose make sure it can connect to a laptop with the ability to log data. I have a powerfc with fc-logit but nistune or link/vipec if you are serious would be a better option imo, especially if considering flex fuel in future. Link + ethanol content sensor = porn. Lastly make sure any ecu fits inside the original ecu case to reduce pork hassles.

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or just tee it off the BOV line, same shit.. I don't like touching the FPR lines just incase it pops off because of a shitty install and you lean your car out and fuark shit up

Edited by Johnnilicte

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Use a vacuum line from the inlet manifold, so it'll read vacuum as well as boost. If you use a line before the throttle body you won't read vacuum. No biggy, but yeah. Helps you identify leak problems.

 

Thank you, this is what I was after, cheers. So I’ll have a look under the bonnet tomorrow for a line that enters the intake manifold after the TB.

 

Hey revhead as already posted tee into a line off the manifold and although people have stated to use the fpr line i would not and have always preferred a dedicated line to the fpr (either way if done correctly will be fine). Always put a small cable tie on as well to remove any chance of a line blowing off.

 

Re off topic ecu, hand controllers are only good to act as additional gauges, serious tuning via hand controller is a chumps game. Whatever ecu you choose make sure it can connect to a laptop with the ability to log data. I have a powerfc with fc-logit but nistune or link/vipec if you are serious would be a better option imo, especially if considering flex fuel in future. Link + ethanol content sensor = porn. Lastly make sure any ecu fits inside the original ecu case to reduce pork hassles.

 

Thanks for confirming my suspicions and for discussing the ecu issue. I like my car clean, but I wouldn’t mind just the one boost gauge in one of the air vents for just a bit of wank factor and something to excite my girlfriend a bit haha :thumbsup: so it wouldn’t be necessary to run a hand controller ecu set up if I’m going to be hiding it out of sight (defeats the purpose of having digital gauge readings on the controller)? So I would be better off with something like a nistune for a pro to tune on a dyno? I’m aiming for 220-250kw (again, this is off topic stuff)

 

 

As for the comment about going rb26... yes I did mention that but I also mentioned I wanted to enjoy the sr first and that the engine swap will come later when I get bored, which is also why I made the engine swap discussion thread because I was thinking of the cheaper rb25 conversions and v8 set ups for the FUTURE. Anyway, back on topic. :)

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and also i don't want the digital display of the EBC giving me the boost reading as i don't want extra LCD screens being visible in the car (stops cops from getting nosey and interested with little screens in the car etc. and other idiots looking in the car) so i would prefer a single gauge that is easy to just glance at while driving.

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and also i don't want the digital display of the EBC giving me the boost reading as i don't want extra LCD screens being visible in the car (stops cops from getting nosey and interested with little screens in the car etc. and other idiots looking in the car) so i would prefer a single gauge that is easy to just glance at while driving.

 

don't use a gauge at all, use an EBC set once, leave in glove box and set up boost warnings/spike prevention done.

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don't use a gauge at all, use an EBC set once, leave in glove box and set up boost warnings/spike prevention done.

 

^ this. Another thing dont bother with high / low boost settings, set peak boost with ebc and control boost with right foot.

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don't use a gauge at all, use an EBC set once, leave in glove box and set up boost warnings/spike prevention done.

 

^ this. Another thing dont bother with high / low boost settings, set peak boost with ebc and control boost with right foot.

 

High/low is awesome. My EBC didn't have an external switch option, so I rewired the switch pins to run to an external set of plugs, then wired it into a stock button for popup headlight adjustment and added a relay to engage an LED mounted in an unused stock location on the dashboard. If a friend was driving or I was tired at the end of a hard training session, disengage the button and cruise with less power and torque. Lower boost certainly makes shifting easier with a button clutch; reduced torque makes the engagement less violent.

 

and also i don't want the digital display of the EBC giving me the boost reading as i don't want extra LCD screens being visible in the car (stops cops from getting nosey and interested with little screens in the car etc. and other idiots looking in the car) so i would prefer a single gauge that is easy to just glance at while driving.

 

I won't claim it's quick and easy, but if you're handy with a soldering iron and have the balls to alter your cluster, there are ways to achieve exactly what you want using a digital gauge.

 

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=518128

Edited by pmod

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this is what I've done to my car.. if you want less attention, this is the way to go. Some cops will ping you on boost gauges, this well you can tell them it measures you temperature and they won't look twice.

 

Boost-Controller-06.jpg

 

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-installing-a-blitz-electronic-boost-controller/

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So even if I were to get a jap A pillar with the boost gauge bezel, cops would still pain me? Still, any info on were the jap cars plumbed their boost lines too, or is it an electronic gauge they use?

 

So, if I were to just have the reading off an EBC unit and keep it somewhere tidy, what sort of unit would I be looking for (220-250kw goal)? I don’t need some insane unit with boost settings per gear and to adjust for multiple fuel types and their suitable boost levels... most I would want is an EBC that is relatively new tech, manufactured from a reputable company, have a low/standard boost setting and a go faster settings (high boost level) and of course... an easy to read digital display.

 

But before I start investing in EBC, ECU, dyno tunes etc, a gauge would be nice to monitor what the turbo is doing and to see if it is still making factory level boost.

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Ive never heard of people getting done for non stock gauges below dash line

Just get s turbo smart gauge put it under head unit and plumb it to fuel press regulator line carefully

Edited by chris_c30

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Gauges are fine so long as they aret blocking any view of the road and arent a safety hazard ie. will smash your head if you crash. Mechanical gauges are not so good it's a defect to run pressurized air past the firewall.

 

Yes jap spec factory boost gauges are electric bit they're taken off in compliance as they are considered a hazard

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So even if I were to get a jap A pillar with the boost gauge bezel, cops would still pain me? Still, any info on were the jap cars plumbed their boost lines too, or is it an electronic gauge they use?

 

So, if I were to just have the reading off an EBC unit and keep it somewhere tidy, what sort of unit would I be looking for (220-250kw goal)? I don’t need some insane unit with boost settings per gear and to adjust for multiple fuel types and their suitable boost levels... most I would want is an EBC that is relatively new tech, manufactured from a reputable company, have a low/standard boost setting and a go faster settings (high boost level) and of course... an easy to read digital display.

 

But before I start investing in EBC, ECU, dyno tunes etc, a gauge would be nice to monitor what the turbo is doing and to see if it is still making factory level boost.

 

Any decent brand, I would steer clear of eBoost (good unit, over priced for something that uses a $30 MAC valve), I personally prefer dual solenoid units, such as Blitz Spec-R or the one I posted above Blitz DSBC. If you look at the boost response, you could nearly lay a ruler over it

 

Oh you're not going to reach 220kW+ with a stock turbo and stock ECU :)

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So even if I were to get a jap A pillar with the boost gauge bezel, cops would still pain me? Still, any info on were the jap cars plumbed their boost lines too, or is it an electronic gauge they use?

 

So, if I were to just have the reading off an EBC unit and keep it somewhere tidy, what sort of unit would I be looking for (220-250kw goal)? I don’t need some insane unit with boost settings per gear and to adjust for multiple fuel types and their suitable boost levels... most I would want is an EBC that is relatively new tech, manufactured from a reputable company, have a low/standard boost setting and a go faster settings (high boost level) and of course... an easy to read digital display.

 

But before I start investing in EBC, ECU, dyno tunes etc, a gauge would be nice to monitor what the turbo is doing and to see if it is still making factory level boost.

 

Any decent brand, I would steer clear of eBoost (good unit, over priced for something that uses a $30 MAC valve), I personally prefer dual solenoid units, such as Blitz Spec-R or the one I posted above Blitz DSBC. If you look at the boost response, you could nearly lay a ruler over it

 

Oh you're not going to reach 220kW+ with a stock turbo and stock ECU smile.png

 

 

Thanks, I will check those out and do my research for what is best for me. I’m all about reliability and want a responsive boost curve, none of that laggy business and massive turbos. And I know, I plan for an ECU upgrade for tunning (nistune or something fancier, not sure yet) and an upgraded turbo like a 2871 or something, injectors, and a nice flowing exhaust manifold to complete the exhaust system.

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as has been said.. dont tee into the fuel reg line.. it is just bad practice.. especially with some of the plastic joiners and hoses that are supplied with some gauges.. instead go for the BOV connection.. it is easy to get to and easy to do.. the only thing that isnt fun in some cases the line has to be adapted down..

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