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sr20detttt

s15 rpf1 wheels

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Hi

 

I want to buy some 17/18inch rpf1 for my s15.

 

My s15 is currently stock.

 

What does it involve to get my car looking like the attached pictures? (found these on google)

 

Would my car still be comfortable to ride or would it be unbearable? (I do not want any knocks or rubbing of guards while driving)

 

I would be upgrading to adjustable Coilovers and I do not mind rolling the guards.

 

If you have rpf1s on your s15, can you post them too?

 

Thanks in advance!

rpf1.jpg

7122877927_dc0b02e095.jpg

7122878355_91a9e1fecc_z.jpg

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I doubt you can run that low and not rub

 

Think you have to start accepting that in order to achieve x, you need to sacrifice y

 

I'm not sure what level of comfortness are you expecting out of a sports car? Esp a cheap one, they are not a luxury cruiser

 

Pretty much coilovers and some rear camber/toe arms to adjust the height/camber adjustments

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Hey mate I was running that low with rolled guards, coilovers and 9.5 inch rims. It will be harsh if you don't get a sports coilover. I'm looking at selling my sport height adjustable cusco for 400. There in the car now with no leaks and are perfect for the street. If you want to stiffen up sway run some bars without sacrificing your nice ride. I'm getting in to track so getting some cusco track coils.

 

Here's mine

image.jpg

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KLGXcuX.jpg

 

This was mine. 18x9.5+18 all round with 225/45's. just cleared the coilover at the front and I couldn't run it any lower as it would hit the spring perch. I'm using pbm coilovers but other coilovers may give you better clearence. The ride was pretty good, It's my daily driver. Guards are rolled and the rear slightly pulled. Didn't have any scrubbing issues but the front sits pretty high. Any lower and you'd have to run heaps of camber. I've since changed to 17x9 +18 wheels and they are a much better fit.

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all depends on coilovers, mine has a mm to spare with 9.5 +30 on the front so I through a 5mm spacer on to make it a +25 and +30 in the rear is perfect if it were me id go in the rpf1s 9.5 +28 0r +32 I think they do and a 9inch in the front at a +30 or +28 that would look sweet but you should roll your gaurds all round

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i would say a good general rule of thumb is 9.5 +15 and below is a safe zone for the front. work around that number and do the maths as u increase/decrease in offset and wheel width.

 

Alot of coilovers made for the front of our S chassis will hit anything above. U can cheat some coilovers if u've lowered enough and let the rim lip sit inbetween the spring gap. i've had alot of experience with different offset, rim size and coilovers on many s15/14/13 and that seems to be the magic number. for the rears I have 9.5 +20 on my work kais and there is still around 30mm of clearance between the coilovers and rims.

 

my car is relatively lowered, tyres are tucking and i have spent some time doing the maths to make it perfect it without scrubbing 99.9% of the time.

 

below is work kais 18x9.5 +20 with 225/40/18 all around but all setups differs, and this jus happens to work for me

 

206gbbc.jpg

 

28jzgbk.jpg

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Not sure how +20 works for you as my+30 with a 5 mm spacer sticks out past the guard and the tear sits flush at+30. What camber r u running ? I'm running 1.5 front an 1 in the rear. I'm runnin 225 stretched as well. Realistically go a smaller width in the front, 9.5 isn't practical and you can get a sweet offset in a 9

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Good to see proper inputs from other members :)

 

Get coilovers with front camber tops for camber adjustments

 

Get get the guards lipped on all 4 corners

 

Personally I would run

 

Fronts

18 x 9 +20 to +25 - 235/40/18

Camber - 2 to - 2.5 deg with

 

Rears

18 x 9.5 +22 - 245/40/18

 

Once the car is lowered, the geometry of the stock S15 camber arms would allow in between the - 2.5 to -2.9 deg

 

It should tuck in quite nicely.

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Hi

My s15 is currently stock.

What does it involve to get my car looking like the attached pictures? (found these on google)

Would my car still be comfortable to ride or would it be unbearable? (I do not want any knocks or rubbing of guards while driving)

 

You will need to do:

- RPF01 wheels in size and offsets the S15 owners [above] have suggested

- Coilovers with base height adjustment

- Roll guard lips

- Remove front guard liners

- Tuck driver-side inner guard loom higher up and zip tie in place

- Fit ajustable front Caster Rods

- Fit adjustable rear Camber Arms

- Loosen front and rear LCA bolts

- Tighten front and rear LCA bolts once at the new ride height (this avoids bush deflection at static position, and hence bush damage once compressed. Rubber deflection is part of the dampening process, so it's worth spending the time to do this)

- Full wheel alignment to adjust Caster Rods and Camber Arms to dial back the changes made by lowering

- Hammer wheel arches for extra clearance in places where the wheels contact them on lock

- Cut, reposition and re-weld mufflers as ground-clearance dictates

 

Probably won't be unbearable, but economic coilovers will have a great deal less dampening and the springs will have to be stiffer due to the reduced piston travel, so it will be a harsher ride. Also expect some rubbing at times, because it's very hard to avoid on a low car with wheel wells designed for a different ride position.

 

Furthermore, if you choose a size/offset that requires a chunk of negative camber or a guard flare in order to get them to tuck, you may regret it. My personal view is that if you can't run at least the rear wheels with zero stretch and 0 degrees camber, then you've chosen the wrong parts. Flaring will likely lead to paint damage or guard buckling and negative camber/stretch on the rear generally results in reduced traction and poor tyre wear on a street car. In a street car, most of the time you're driving and launching straight rather than taking tight hairpin corners at speed (where negative camber really comes into play) , meaning you're just reducing traction and increasing tyre wear for no reason beyond questionable aesthetics and bragging-rights on how much wheel offeset you run.

 

No offence to the people who are really into massive offset and camber; my preference is simply more for functionality. Tucking can look good and handle ok-ish when done right, and the S15s posted above look great.

Edited by pmod

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i've got Greddy type S coilovers in mine, i can tell u now, these feel close to stock ride feel but much more firmer when taking corners, lol im not kidding its absorbs bumps really well. had some harsh rides in the past on tein HR's/pedders extreme/GAB's revo spec/ etc bouncing quite abit over bumps. well worth the money to looks into the greddy type S, and if i ever was on the train to buy some coilovers, id definately go back to it

 

im running shit all camber honestly, cant remember but its because my tyre/inner guard clearance is minimal, u would probably wedge a extra's chewing gum in there, say 3-5mm if that. im very anal about my stance lol and it took me shits long to get it how i wanted it, still considering 225/35/18 on the fronts and lowering the rear a tad more in the future but thats yet to come.

 

heres one random photo someone took for further reference, wish i had shut my door tho

 

478910_517860734916716_977321723_o.jpg

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^ are u running 35 profiles on front n rear?

those type S u got they 8/6kg? also have u got adjst arms on the rear?

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17x9+22 is perfect for s15 u can't go wrong.

Just need a bit of camber and roll rear guards.

 

I change from 17x9+22 because they didn't clear my front brakes(Evo brembo calipers)

So I changed to 17x9.5+18 with 235/40/17. I have no rubbing issues.

I use standards struts with lowered springs and adjustable camber tops.

-4 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear.

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17x9+22 is perfect for s15 u can't go wrong.

Just need a bit of camber and roll rear guards.

 

I change from 17x9+22 because they didn't clear my front brakes(Evo brembo calipers)

So I changed to 17x9.5+18 with 235/40/17. I have no rubbing issues.

I use standards struts with lowered springs and adjustable camber tops.

-4 camber in the front and -2.5 in the rear.

 

can you please post a pic of your car?

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what do you guys think of 18x9.5 +15?

I really do wanna go the 18inch way

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I run 17x9+20 all around. rear guard requires abit of a inner roll but thats it. i believe anything more aggressive will require u to roll / pump the guards out + hectic camber.

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I run 17x9+20 all around. rear guard requires abit of a inner roll but thats it. i believe anything more aggressive will require u to roll / pump the guards out + hectic camber.

can you please post a pic of your car?

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going 18" has many benefits

 

1. achieve a more wheel arch filling with less tyre profile

2. able to run wider tyres than 255 commonly maxing out on 17"

3. when excessive lowering addiction occurs, u can still tuck tyres without scraping the rear exhaust

4. u can achieve a good ride height overall without making the car illegally low especially if u are running body kits

5. 18" tyres have a diverse range of tyre size and profile

6. for those who are upgrading big brake kits usually require 18" for clearance

 

 

^ are u running 35 profiles on front n rear?

those type S u got they 8/6kg? also have u got adjst arms on the rear?

 

40 profile, i will be however testing out 35 profile in the near future just for the fronts, hoping it wont look out of place and so i can have the car sitting abit lower with only 10mm of tyre showing

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1. You can go lower with 17s

2. You can go wide with 17s, and well over 255 wide. 255 is the 'high' recommended width for 17s and 18s if you didn't know.

3. You can tuck 17s better due to the brim of the rim being further from the guard.

4. A car that has tucked in tyres, which is what you can do better/easier with 17s, looks better then a car that has a bigger gap between the tyre and gurd even thought the rim itself is closer to the guard (as with 18s) - if you don't believe that that is actually what YOU would prefer, have a google of awesome silvia pics and you'll see that these are the common specs that make you like the stance. You can had the silvia at this ride high legally on 17s. No issues at all.

5. The trend is that 18s tyres will be more popular, but 17s are now still more popular then 18s size tyres.

6. Big brake kits like evos can easily use 17s, it depends on the rim design.

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18x9.5 + 15 or...

18x8.5 + 30

 

and why?

 

also... are the three car pics I attached at the start of the post.. 17s or 18s?

I just really want to make my car look like them. The wheels dont look like its been tucked under the guards that much.. it's the way i like it

Edited by sr20detttt

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its hard one the 8.5s wont sit flush they'll be 12mm in and the others will stick out 10 to 15 mm depending on camber and if you get them go 18 is they look like a small wheel already

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1. You can go lower with 17s

2. You can go wide with 17s, and well over 255 wide. 255 is the 'high' recommended width for 17s and 18s if you didn't know.

3. You can tuck 17s better due to the brim of the rim being further from the guard.

4. A car that has tucked in tyres, which is what you can do better/easier with 17s, looks better then a car that has a bigger gap between the tyre and gurd even thought the rim itself is closer to the guard (as with 18s) - if you don't believe that that is actually what YOU would prefer, have a google of awesome silvia pics and you'll see that these are the common specs that make you like the stance. You can had the silvia at this ride high legally on 17s. No issues at all.

5. The trend is that 18s tyres will be more popular, but 17s are now still more popular then 18s size tyres.

6. Big brake kits like evos can easily use 17s, it depends on the rim design.

 

This guy knows what's going on.

 

Usually 17's looks better on stock body or stock kitted cars, and 18's look better on cars with big kit.

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it depends on what you are after in regards to how your car sits. do u want sick hella flush or usable wheel size / tyre width etc.

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it depends on what you are after in regards to how your car sits. do u want sick hella flush or usable wheel size / tyre width etc.

 

i just want it to look EXACTLY like the pics at the start of the post lol

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it depends on what you are after in regards to how your car sits. do u want sick hella flush or usable wheel size / tyre width etc.

 

i just want it to look EXACTLY like the pics at the start of the post lol

 

dunno what RPF sizes that come available, but get coil overs first then worry about wheels haha. 9 -> 9.5 inch wide + 20 and under nothing lower than 10.

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I know what sizes they come in, and if you just do some simple research and the math in regards to which size will obviously hit the coilover - then you'll see that the only specs for those rims is literary like 6mm+ (but usually more) away from any aftermarket front coilover.

 

In other words, good luck getting 9" or 9.5" under the front, at the quoted pics height, with only rolling guards.

 

That guy probably has 8.5".

 

I should note that there is a flush inner clearance 17 inch rim for the front but there isn't a spec for that in the 18s.

Edited by Suspop

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I know what sizes they come in, and if you just do some simple research and the math in regards to which size will obviously hit the coilover - then you'll see that the only specs for those rims is literary like 6mm+ (but usually more) away from any aftermarket front coilover. In other words, good luck getting 9" or 9.5" under the front, at the quoted pics height, with only rolling guards. That guy probably has 8.5". I should note that there is a flush inner clearance 17 inch rim for the front but there isn't a spec for that in the 18s.

 

LOL

 

the offsets on these rims are poo

 

:thumb:

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Tempted by these wheels myself, wouldn't mind a set of 17's in their SBC colour...

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I changed my wheels to AME Tracers very similar wheels but offer better sizing, I currently run 9.5/10.5 on mine now.

 

 

I know what sizes they come in, and if you just do some simple research and the math in regards to which size will obviously hit the coilover - then you'll see that the only specs for those rims is literary like 6mm+ (but usually more) away from any aftermarket front coilover. In other words, good luck getting 9" or 9.5" under the front, at the quoted pics height, with only rolling guards. That guy probably has 8.5". I should note that there is a flush inner clearance 17 inch rim for the front but there isn't a spec for that in the 18s.

 

LOL

 

the offsets on these rims are poo

 

:thumb:

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