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Kash

CA18DET power loss

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Hello, as you can see from the title I have a CA18DET that has power loss. I was browsing this forum but I couldn't find anything similar to my problem. Anyway, I'm gonna try to explain it as clearly as I can.

Also, I want to say that I'm not a mechanic, my knowledge with cars is really little. And sorry for my bad english, it isn't my first language.

 

So, everything started when I was cleaning my engine (oil) from slug. I removed valve caps, CAS, camshafts, timing belt, hydraulic compensators (I've rebuild them). After putting everything together I also changed oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned my injectors. When we started the car it worked fine, but after putting gas pedal to the floor the car would start to "cough"/shoot from exhaust and wouldn't go past 3k RPMs. Anyway, I didn't knew what to do so I gave it to a guy that works with 200sx for many years. He re-put my timing belt and set the timing. It helped for a few days. But after a few days I got a straight 3" exhaust with turbo elbow. The guys that installed it said that it's from SR20DET and that turbo elbow is now screwed to my turbo with 4 out of 5 screws. Anyway when I got my exhaust installed the problem started again. Car started caughing and wouldn't go past 3k RPMs when floored. I took my car to the same guy and he found out that my fuel pump is dead. He changed it to other one (used) and it was ok for a while.

 

So now I have a different problem. When I am pushing gas soft the car runs fine, but if I floor it, I hear the turbo spool (~3k RPM), I can feel the acceleration till about 4k RPMs, then I feel a slight pause (it stops for like 1sec @ 4k RPMs) and then it goes further but reaaaaally slowly. And I feel like the boost turns on-off-on-off. It's really strange and hard to explain. Sometimes I feel like I don't have any boost.

 

What should I check? Should I look at turbo's actuator? As I was googling I've read that it can be:

1) Boost leak

2) Spark plugs

3) Vacuum leak

4) IC piping leak

5) Exhaust leak

6) O2/lambda sensor

7) Coilpacks

I tried to disconnect my O2 sensor, but nothing changed. I took NGK spark plugs (I will be able to tell the exact model tomorrow) from my friends dead SR20DET motor, gonna try to put them in, also check the coilpacks. Maybe you guys have any schemes or pictures that could show me where to look for boost/vaccum/ic piping leaks? I would be really grateful for that.

 

Oh and by the way, my S13 is fully stock except for exhaust and stage 1 ECU chip.

 

Thanks in advance,

Kash.

Edited by Kash

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The first issue you had sounded like a timing problem, as in cams out by a tooth or two, but you said you've had a mechanic look at and fix that.

 

If you can get the revs to come up slowly, but not quickly than can be a bad AFM, and big leak somewhere, a fuel delivery problem, an issue with the tune (stage 1 chip).

 

The very first thing I would do is put the ECU into diagnostic mode and see if it gives you any error codes.

 

http://www.scimitarss1.com/index.php/support/information/74-ca18det-ecu-diagnostic-codes

 

If you get an error, start there, if you get no errors (code 55) then you will have to start going over each system carefully.

 

It may be worth having someone with some mechanical knowledge go over the car, perform a boost leak test, check all the vcacuum lines on the fuel regulator etc.

 

If the car is cutting out it's either getting way too much fuel (bad regulator, bad tune, massive boost leak) or it's not getting enough fuel (bad injectors, fuel reg not working/connectd properly, bad pump, bad wiring to pump, bad tune).

 

If the car ran well enough before with the stage 1 chip then that shouldn't be the issue, you've most likely damaged something, disconnected something, or not properly sealed/connected something from the work you did.

 

If possible, swap in another set of known working coil packs also as most turbo Nissan's are notorious for failing coil packs. Also check the earthing wire from the coil packs to the coil pack bracket, if it's not connected they sometimes don't fire properly and it's easy to miss connecting it.

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The guys that installed it said that it's from SR20DET and that turbo elbow is now screwed to my turbo with 4 out of 5 screws.

 

You have an exhaust leak. Buy an exhaust that fits.

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Yeah sorry glossed over that part thinking it was obvious.

 

That should be fixed but won't be the cause of the issue.

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The first issue you had sounded like a timing problem, as in cams out by a tooth or two, but you said you've had a mechanic look at and fix that.

 

If you can get the revs to come up slowly, but not quickly than can be a bad AFM, and big leak somewhere, a fuel delivery problem, an issue with the tune (stage 1 chip).

 

The very first thing I would do is put the ECU into diagnostic mode and see if it gives you any error codes.

 

http://www.scimitars...iagnostic-codes

 

If you get an error, start there, if you get no errors (code 55) then you will have to start going over each system carefully.

 

It may be worth having someone with some mechanical knowledge go over the car, perform a boost leak test, check all the vcacuum lines on the fuel regulator etc.

 

If the car is cutting out it's either getting way too much fuel (bad regulator, bad tune, massive boost leak) or it's not getting enough fuel (bad injectors, fuel reg not working/connectd properly, bad pump, bad wiring to pump, bad tune).

 

If the car ran well enough before with the stage 1 chip then that shouldn't be the issue, you've most likely damaged something, disconnected something, or not properly sealed/connected something from the work you did.

 

If possible, swap in another set of known working coil packs also as most turbo Nissan's are notorious for failing coil packs. Also check the earthing wire from the coil packs to the coil pack bracket, if it's not connected they sometimes don't fire properly and it's easy to miss connecting it.

My mechanic also checked the AFM with multimeter and it was working when he was blowing air to it. I saw it myself. Anyway, today I'm gonna try to check the coilpacks, change spark plugs and see if my ECU gives any error codes. If none of it is gonna work then I will do some research on how to check for yours mentioned leaks. I'm trying to save some money and I want to get some knowledge with cars, it's really interesting.

Thanks for the advices guys, I'm gonna report everything here.

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So long as it was tested all the way through the range, my GT-R had faulty AFM's and they worked up to about 3v then died in the arse due to dry solder joints.

 

Keep at it, you'll find the issue soon enough.

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