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revhead90

when would it be required for me to upgrade suspension arms?

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OK so I have worked out what wheels and springs I’m getting (starting out with basic mods first)

Wheels F: 18x8.5 +16 R: 18x9.5 +24 Work s1 3p Meister

Coilovers: Silk Road RM/A8

I eventually plan on working my way up to some performance mods but I’m going to take is slow so I can appreciate the s15 at every stage of the build. Aiming for 200-240ish rwkw in the end. Primarily street driven, weekender, only sees a track maybe 2-3 times a year.

What I’m unsure of is when would/should I be upgrading the suspension arms? There are adjustable arms for caster, toe, camber, upper/lower control arms etc..

I don’t want to just throw money at the car for no reason, I want to be sure that the mods I’m doing have purpose.

So, when would I need to upgrade these components?

Thanks guys and girls. Cheers.

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I have an s13 with a set of work xd9's all round and running silkroad rma8's. So far the only arms I have swapped out are the castor rods as the bushes in my oem ones were shot. I went with a set of GkTech arms and they seem to work a treat. I was having issues in the front end hence the swap and while i was at it did a full refurb of every bush in the front end.

 

The rear I have a set of camber arms from GkTech aswell, I havnt fitted them yet but will shortly as i'd like the bring the rear camber back closer to 0 degrees instead of being so agressive due to the natural camber from lowering.

 

I'd also like to know the pros and cons of swapping all the other arms in the rear out for some adjustable rose jointed options.

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what sort of issues where you having that you needed to upgrade the caster rods in the front?

 

so really what i should do is fit up the coils and wheels, get it low to where i like it, dial in the damper adjust for comfort and then.. if i'm having alignment issues upgrade rods/arms?

 

are there any extra stability gains that can be had just from switching out the nissan oem for stronger more adjustable arms??

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i had 3p mesiters in similar sizes.. depending on what disk type you get the fronts wont clear ur stock calipers.. furthermore, if you want to go low.. then you will need to dial in decent camber.. also roll your rear guards.. for what it's worth going dish & stretched tyres (which everyone seems to now love) & looking good aint worth it.

 

if it really is purpose your after then get smaller size rims that fill the guards & look good & also don't lower the car too much, at the same time have good allignment settings for street that provide optimal grip & minimal tyre wear. if you do decide to get the wide rims & lower it then you will need camber/toe arms to dial in more if needed - your stock items won't cope.. good luck.

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the standard castor rods are common to leak their oil. if you lower the car at all you should get front castor and rear camber, traction, toe arms. aftermarket lower control arms are a waste of money

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Exactly what is said above. Front castor, rear camber, toe and traction. Lower control arms rear/front are a waste and only needed if you go very low (no a daily).

That's a good start. Wouldn't bother with offset bushes.

 

FIt arms and coils together, rough alignment (if doing it yourself), put wheels on and book car for full alignment and height setting.

Castor will get you more mid corner grip. Rear ares will allow you to have proper angles coz it all goes wack when you lower the car.

You'll get a better feel with the rear arms.

Edited by Suspop

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I’m not going extreme low and extreme wheel fitment. Tyres are only going to be mildly stretched, all guards will be rolled, and I shouldn’t have any problems clearing callipers as the car I pulled my starting specs from didn’t have issues with callipers, I just adjusted the wheel width a give me more back space clearance for the coils.

So I shouldn’t worry about front and rear lower control arms then.

What I should be looking for are; Front: caster rods. Rear: camber, traction, toe arms.

Should I be getting camber, traction, toe arms for the front as well, or just caster rods for the front?

I know what each of the rods/arms do but I’m just unsure of when it would be necessary to upgrade them so a bit confused here. I’m trying to find that fine line between nice stance without compromise of handling performance.

Thanks for the help so far, keep it coming J

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Fronts camber is adjusted by camber plates on top of the coilovers mounts, most coilovers are sold with them but check with the mob u are buying the coilovers off. Caster on the front is the only adjustable arm u need. Camber, toe and traction arms on the rear are the main ones to have.

 

As bling said aftermaket lowers are a waste of money, only needed for race cars or wank factor. The standard ones are fine for what u want to do with the car.

 

I have all gktech arms in the rear of my 180 and they have been great so far. Try not to go ebay china spec arms as u will regret it later.

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thanks for confirming that wally, appreciate it. did you install your GKtech arms yourself?

i tend to steer clear of all ebay no brand items, i like to buy from name brands but in a price range that is appropriate.. i'm not going to pay three times the amount just because a brand name is on it haha. what other brands out there make good quality products for suspension gear and have a reputable reputation?

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The front doesn't have the same arms as the rear, just get castor arms and camber will be by the top of coils. Leave tweaking toe for another time.

Just start with gktech bits you'll be fine. Unless you want to pay for one arm as much as you'd pay for the whole thing just for a little extra bit of pro.

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For the price u cant go past the gktech gear, i installed it all myself. They come with all the hardware u need and just search for the torque settings on the web and u will be sweet.

 

When u remove the standard arms adjust the new arms to roughly the same length before u install them. Saves chewing out the tires on the way to get an alignment.

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You don't have to go particularly low for the rear camber to go beyond factory correction. As said, aftermarket arms are the rational choice to make from the perspective of correcting the alignment, and if doing that be sure to change the LCA bushes too. Chances are the LCA bushes are still original equipment and have begun to perish, so adding a bunch of pillowball mounts will only accellerate their death, which will screw with your alignment and make a re-alignment nearly impossible to achieve (you change one value and the others get thrown out, because the LCA moves in the bushing).

 

I replaced mine with vulcanised-rubber press-in bushes from Megan Racing, and they've been fine. Stiffer and no real extra NVH, but without the squeaking and need for lubrication associated with polyurethane. Just take note that rubber press-in bushes must only be tightened when the car is on the ground at the desired ride height, as they're bonded to the metal sleeve, and are designed to twist during LCA movement adding additional damping characteristics. Tighten them when low and they'll be bound-up and taut at rest, and tear when hitting bumps.

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I thought this would be a good discussion topic as I didn’t find anything else on here and Google seems to be full of so much crap now days.

 

So I was doing some research, and the arms/rods that GKTech offer seem to be very good and they just upgraded their range with new construction and material (V2 range), so pretty good and well priced. I was also looking at the SPL "pro" gear and just about every arm has a $100 price increase compared to the gktech range. They look similar, do the same thing, but are manufactured with titanium.. For the street I think the spl gear is over kill, no?

 

So I’ll be getting front caster rods, rear camber/toe/traction rods. And what PMOD said, switching out the lower control arm bushes sounds like a smart move too. The arm installs is something I can do with a mate and basic tools in his tyre shop (immediate access to wheel alignment which is good) but the LCA bushes having to be pressed might be out of my league?

 

I would be fine installing all the arms and such and then taking the car to a suspension shop to get the bushes properly pressed in by a professional?

 

Thanks everyone

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Taking the LCAs to a shop is fine, but if you have a big vice and a range of thick tubing or sockets it can be done at home too. I pressed my old bushes out, however I had a few issues pressing the new ones in due to my sockets not really being ideal for installation, so I just had a shop do the reinstallation. It's a good time to replace balljoints too, but by no means is it essential.

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yeah i might just leave that job to someone more experienced. when you say replacing the ball joints, what ball joints are you referring too?

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i have never heard of a lca bush flogging out on a silvia or a skyline. just loosen the bolts, lower the car and re-tighten them

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some relevant side tracking here.. but have you seen the rim sizes you want in real life on an s15? are you aware the 3p rims come in different disk types? again, i had the same rear size/offset.. fronts were same size but +29 offset with 'a' disk & i just got away with it.. i.e had to dial in decent camber to sit flush & quite close to caliper.

 

there not an extreme size but by no means are they subtle.

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yes i have. the original wheel sizes i wanted where front 18x9 +22A -2deg camber. rear 18x10 +30O -1.5deg camber as seen in this picture:

8429409226_59e8aa5778_b.jpg

 

 

I contacted the owner of the car and he said with BC BR coils he had only 2mm clearance between the inner front wheel and the coilover.

 

So i decided to look up the work wheels spec sheet and adjust the back space while keeping the same rim depth (dish) and I ended up with front 18x8.5 +16A rear 18x9.5 +24O

 

however in another thread that I posted I’m getting answers that say the silk road coils allow for much more clearance (don’t know how, are they narrower?) so I’m thinking of going with the 9 and 10" wheels now...

 

Will going wider in wheel width cause issues for my suspension arms or not?

Edited by revhead90

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i have never heard of a lca bush flogging out on a silvia or a skyline. just loosen the bolts, lower the car and re-tighten them

 

Probably not a common issue and it could be the result of past impact damage (who knows with imports), but it happened to my 180 a number of months after converting to 5-stud on the front. It wasn't like the bush fell apart like my old Subaru which tramlined all over the place, but there was sufficient play that the wheel shop couldn't make any settings on the driver's side stick. Changed the bushes and it was all good.

 

yeah i might just leave that job to someone more experienced. when you say replacing the ball joints, what ball joints are you referring too?

 

The threaded blobs on the end of the LCAs that the knuckles attach to. Yours are probably ok, given it's only 11 years old, but I thought I'd mention it if you're the type that likes to do everything in one hit.

Edited by pmod

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the clevis sticks out further on the silk roads, plus they yave heaps of adjustment at the clevis too

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buy clevis are you referring to the lower part of the coilover that bolts to the car?

 

if there is lots of adjustment to be had with the silk roads i might just stick to the wider wheels i originally wanted 9" up front and 10" rear?

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ok thanks for that. might stick with the original wheel specs then of 9 and 10 inch widths.

 

back to the topic. anything more that GKTech arms would be over doing it for the street yeah? point is to just get a proper alignment to suit lower car and bigger wheels. not going to be hammering around a track for 3 hour stints so titanium arms at 250 a pop is ridiculous.

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Sorry for late reply, the only reason I swapped out the oem castor rods for new ones was the bushes were rooted and I thought I may aswell upgrade to adjustable ones as I was going lower. I'll be buying some traction and toe arms for the rear to go along with the camber arms I've got. That about all I'm going to get though.

 

If anything it will just be good to refresh all those 20 odd year old bushes.

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Can't edit my post in my phone to add this...

 

I'm going to be buying all gktech arms, already have the billet camber arms and the castor aswell and they both seem good quality and a good price.

 

Only one I havn't decided on is the toe arms, as I've heard of them hitting the subframe unless they are the bent ones.

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I don’t plan on going chassis scrapping low so I should be good for the arms. I’m sure gktech manufacture an above average product great for a street car

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Yeah that's why I've gone with them, everything I've bought off ten has been excellent.

 

@bling, I've heard they can hit the subframe even at a reasonable height. Obviously you would call it high but it's not ridiculously low?

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