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SpotMan

Angled radiator set up. rb20 s13

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heh... dunno how you s chassis guys with Rb's manage to keep it cool all the time.

 

im on my 3rd cooling system design,,, still not all that brilliant in terms of cooling :S

 

RB25 fan with rb30e hub

Tabata 52mm GTR radiator (jap brand)

header tank with swirl pot

High flow thermostat

n1 pump

quality fluids

 

sits on 90 with thrashing usually on a cool day... soon as its anything over 26 degrees ambient such as 30-40 degree warm/hot days it will start getting hot after multiple hard laps.

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your missing on vital peice.

 

The rb20.

 

They dont need waterpumps.

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Simon.. I'm not that crash hot at drifting yet.. still not hitting 3rd as of yet

 

so I'm sure temps will start gettin up there once I do a few laps thru higher gears

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Plus your car puts out a fair bit more power than most on here, how does Stewys car keep cool that thing is on constand limiter lap after lap

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Because r chassis...

 

Engine bay is designed with that motor in mind.. My R32 never got hot either, nor did my ceffy

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its not only that but the engine bay itself is designed to allow hot air to escape. so when you cram a small bay with lots of motor you're minimising the chance for the hot air to get out

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Plus your car puts out a fair bit more power than most on here, how does Stewys car keep cool that thing is on constand limiter lap after lap

With a stock f**king radiator

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mooka used to run a stock rad in his R33 for many years with over 300rwkw. only went a koyo coz it eventually cracked the plastic tank. it never overheated either

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Hey mate, just finished reading all this and in my opinion there has been some good advice given. If it were my car I would:

 

Check which type of thermos you have (push or pull) and position acordingly (ie- behind the radiator if they are the pulling type and install a shroud) or leave where they are if the pushing type. Create a new radiator support if you need to, however maintain a decent air gap between your intercooler and readiator at all times to prevent heat soak.

 

I would keep the thermostat unless you have a good temp guage and you are meticulous with monitoring your car when driving. In my opinion you could delete the thermostat providing you were extremely patient in letting the car warm up (probably take around 5-10 mins at idle without a thermostat to get near 70 deg). Just put a normal 77-80deg unit in and forget about it. Nismo low temp thermostats are a complete waste of money, as optimium operating temp for your engine is probably around 80deg anyway. In my defence, when has a thermostat ever caused a major problem with overheating unless it is sticking or won't open at all.

 

I would suggest you keep your thermos, and try to fix the problem one thing at a time. If it were my car I would spend the money on a good quality radiator and some ducting from your front bar as mop suggested. I would not reccomend to anyone that they buy a china cheapie, especially since rb into s chassis swaps are known to have overheating issues. A quality radiator implant would have to be one of the best value for money modifications to any s13, the factory items are garbage.

 

Good luck mate

Stevo

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thermos are either push or pull. The fan blade just has to be flipped then the motor reversed. Thermostat is staying will just get a cooler opening one. Radiator im toying up with china or the beesknees. Jusy becasue my next event will be when its cooler and i will most likely smash the rad before next summer.

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Fair enough, I wouldn't waste money on a new thermostat if the one you have is opening fine. Cooler thermostats have no benefit and are a complete waste of money in my opinion. I could be wrong here, but the only problem I've ever had with thermostats causing overheating is because the thermostat was sticking. You can test yours by putting it in some hot water and watching what happens. You heat the water and watch temperature with a thermometer whilst observing what the thermostat is doing.

 

I mentioned push/pull because in some oem fans the blades have a curved cross section. I run twin 12" aftermarket SPAL fans on my car and they cannot be reversed as you say due to the blade shape. None the less it is possible and if they keep the car cool enough when staging between runs then they are probably doing there job ok, especially if you are restricted by budget.

 

If you do choose even a cheap aftermarket radiator it is highly probable you will still notice some positive gains, however buying twice is not economical.

 

And to those people who say thermo fans are junk. They are complete idiots. Why anyone would choose a clutch fan over properly set up thermo's is a mystery to me. There is nothing wrong with clutch fans, however they are no where near as performance oreintated as thermos.

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How are thermos more performance orientated? You'd be lucky to lose 5hp to a clutch fan and even then thermos need current which puts more load on your alternator.

 

A clutch fan is reliable protection, it's connected to the engine so if it stops, the fan stops.

Thermos can stuff up from wiring/fuses/motor/s packing it in at anytime.

 

Also there has been different fans available both OEM and aftermarket that pull more air than the chassis sanctioned fan, and GKtech are claiming a huge 40% something more airflow with there new fan design.

 

A clutch fan with shroud is THE shit.

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I'll have to agree to disagree. I believe they are more performance orientated, however clutch fans are great up to a point. I wouldnt want my car running hot on the track (consequently clutch fan engaged fully) and spinng the thing to 9000rpm constantly. I wonder what type of clutch fans they are running on the WTA cars at the moment..

 

In Spotmans' instance either fan setup will do fine. If he had a clutch fan setup I would not be recomending change to thermo fans.

 

What is the techincal benefit of a clutch fan pulling more than 40% air over standard? What a waste of power and money. If your engine cannot maintain a stable temperature at idle with a good radiator, stock clutch fan and shroud then you should be paying someone to sort your cooling issues properly. The fan is virtually useless once your moving forward at over 40 - 60km/h.

 

"Thermos can stuff up from wiring/fuses/motor/s packing it in at anytime."

Any part of your car can stuff up from wiring/ fuses/motors stopping. What about your electric fuel pump not giving enough fuel pressure and causing a massive lean out? What about your windscreen wiper motor failing in heavy rain causing a 10 car pile up?

 

A clutch fan can 'stuff up' too. What happens when an old clutch fan gets out of balance? or the viscous fluid leaks? Or the bearing inside goes? I see nothing wrong with clutch fans, they are generally robust and reliable, however I have dealt with all these problems as well.

 

Spotman, just a thought. Check your radiator cap, this is commonly overlooked.

 

Stevo.

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ive played around woth different set ups on my hilux. First of all i replaced the radiator and thermostat as it was getting too warm. That didnt solve anything. So i checked my thermostat fair enough the new one was f**ked. So chopped the centre out (side of the road job) it still got warm so i played around with the timing. This helped a bit.

 

Then i chucked a cooler opening thermostat in as the chopped one wasnt allowing the coolant to sit and cool. This made a fairly big difference. I then chucked some air ducting in and an oil cooler.

 

This made the biggest difference.. It used to sit on 110 degrees and slowly climb whilist towing. Now it sits on a constant 80 degree no matter what the weathers like and ive only had it up to 88 degrees while towing in 38degree day heat up a massive hill.

Edited by SpotMan

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brothers a sparky/ wiz with car electrics and he comes with me every event. So any electrical problem he can solve,

 

replaced the rad cap before my first track day.

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Buying a rb30 radiator next week for le cheaps, and also have a header tank lined up. just wanting more info on it. will be making a custom rad support with a lil lean to fit the 30 rad. also will make alot of air ducting so it will basically be like a rx7/ rx8 set up.

 

Do i need a special rad cap or do i just use the normal one, run the over flow line to the bottom of the header tank (which also has a cap on it) then just run a over flow line off the top bung of the tank?

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31 or vl?http://m106.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/MX5_Dorifto/breather_820.gif.html

Edited by blingcommander

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its out of Hollands 31 haha

 

edit*

 

Like this?

greedy-breather-tank_diagram_dsr-turbo-01.jpg

Edited by SpotMan

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if running a header tank then the cap on the radiator must be a non pressure type, or just modify a stock one to remove the spring. the pressure cap then goes on the header tank

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