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pig1jz

how to do lobster back piping

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Finished this off today, previously had the piping routed down behind the passenger headlight through a 3" hole cutout but was getting lots of rubbing and interferance so I made a new hotside pipe. Went with smaller 2.25" (from turbo) to 2.5" instead of 2.5" all the way (previous). Was able to manipulate the pipe much better with the lobster but just soo time consuming...

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Thanks for the comments, keep the pics coming, this thread is what got the motivation going.

 

Hey STRE no filler just fused. The pipe isnt under any stress so to say but please feel free to comment any constructive criticism welcome as im still quite new to welding

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Thin walled stainless like that, fusing should yield full penetration and no worries about strength if done correctly IMO. Thats the beauty of perfectly cut joins and thin gauge.

 

Only a problem if using alu as it has a tendency to crack if you fuse it.

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Thanks for the comments, keep the pics coming, this thread is what got the motivation going.

 

Hey STRE no filler just fused. The pipe isnt under any stress so to say but please feel free to comment any constructive criticism welcome as im still quite new to welding

 

When I do stainless Intercooler piping i do it the same

No need to use filler wire on stainless Intercooler piping and fusing looks so much nicer

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Got a question for the guys who do exhaust work, How much clearance space do you leave between the chassis and exhaust? im redoing mine to be super tight cause the car is low is 10mm enough?

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Thin walled stainless like that, fusing should yield full penetration and no worries about strength if done correctly IMO. Thats the beauty of perfectly cut joins and thin gauge.

 

Only a problem if using alu as it has a tendency to crack if you fuse it.

 

 

When I do stainless Intercooler piping i do it the same

No need to use filler wire on stainless Intercooler piping and fusing looks so much nicer

 

Sweet thanks for the heads up. Getting a tight fit just takes lotsa time when your working with an abbrasive chop saw, never get accurate cuts as the thing is always a few deg's out, and the de-burring and cleaning etc, but happy with the results.

 

Are you guys purging? I found that going on low heat without purge at ~20A with a fast pulse does the trick without any sugaring. Any more it will sugar up on the inside...

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When I do stainless Intercooler piping i do it the same

No need to use filler wire on stainless Intercooler piping and fusing looks so much nicer

 

Sweet thanks for the heads up. Getting a tight fit just takes lotsa time when your working with an abbrasive chop saw, never get accurate cuts as the thing is always a few deg's out, and the de-burring and cleaning etc, but happy with the results.

 

Are you guys purging? I found that going on low heat without purge at ~20A with a fast pulse does the trick without any sugaring. Any more it will sugar up on the inside...

yeah u need a really nice tight fit when your fusing, i also dont linish the the out side of the pipe after the cut because it makes it harder to fuse when the metal is thinner i would recommend getting a decent bandsaw it makes life so much easier

i love my bandsaw i dunno what i would do with out it

 

for intercooler piping i dont purge, keep my amps low and just fuse both pieces together by moving the torch left and right over the joint

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what about a power hacksaw? i have one and a friction saw. what would be best out of these two to use for cutting the materials?

 

i also have a cigweld 175i mig/tig/stick. but the tig is only scratch start. would this work alright for stainless pipework and exaust?

 

thanks :thumbsup:

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When I do stainless Intercooler piping i do it the same

No need to use filler wire on stainless Intercooler piping and fusing looks so much nicer

 

yeah u need a really nice tight fit when your fusing, i also dont linish the the out side of the pipe after the cut because it makes it harder to fuse when the metal is thinner i would recommend getting a decent bandsaw it makes life so much easier

i love my bandsaw i dunno what i would do with out it

 

for intercooler piping i dont purge, keep my amps low and just fuse both pieces together by moving the torch left and right over the joint

 

Yes good point, I found that if i linished too much to a point where you bevel the edges it could blow through in the really thin sections if it wasnt tight. I definatly need to get some more tools, a cold chop or a bandsaw.

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hyper3.JPG

2 hours to complete.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But it's not mine

Edited by Rolled Cambers

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boss...........

6248043287_936ec28228.jpg

Edited by kriss

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where is everyone getting cheap pipe from? i called a few places and the price is off the charts. stainless 304 3 inch for 3M's worth is $450 FFS

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What wall thickness man? did you ask for pipe?..... Or tube...

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What wall thickness man? did you ask for pipe?..... Or tube...

 

Theres a difference between pipe and tube?? I asked for 1.6mm wall as i've used it before.

 

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Theres a difference between pipe and tube??

 

yes

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oh well i asked for pipe, worst case scenario i would have been 1.6mm off . just a shock as last time i picked up 6 meters for $140 including 5 cuts

 

thanks for explaining that Mitch

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If you mentioned the WT (1.6mm) then you would have gotten tube either way. I only asked because i could picture you getting some 5mm thick steam piping or something lol. Would explain your sudden shock in pricing.

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So everyone is doing 7.5degree cuts. If you wanted it to be uber smooth transitions could you do 5 degree cuts? If you did this would you then still have the outer pipe length roughly double that of the inner pipe length for the segments?

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Had time today to have my first decent go at the Tig. Made this hot pipe. Guess I'll have to polish it or something to get the welds shiny or am I doing something wrong? Its just fused, had to fill a hole or two where the joints weren't quite perfect.

fuse3.jpg

fuse2.jpg

fuse1.jpg

fuse4.jpg

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. Guess I'll have to polish it or something to get the welds shiny or am I doing something wrong?

looks like you got your amps set to high which is why the beads are doing dark in colour

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Thanks mate, that was 60amps prob too high hey, I havent finished it or done cold side so Ill try lower amps next.

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yeah try lowing the amp, looks like you got your amps set to high which is whats causing it to turn a dark colour

just turn the amps down and move slower also before you stop make sure u keep the torch over the weld zone so the bead can cool down while being shielded with argon and set your post flow to suit ( for what your doing 3 seconds should be enough )

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post flow was around 3 secs but being noob sometimes id forget and take the torch away as soon as the arc stopped whoops, thanks for the tips!

Edited by R32GTRS

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Some of my work today simple 3inch intake on my 32 - got the welder setup way better as you can tell, might re do the hot pipe as those beads look rubbish now.

intake1.jpg

intake2.jpg

intake4.jpg

intake3.jpg

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looks like u got your welder setup a lot better this time round

 

if u have tight fitting joins u dont need any filler and u can just fuse the joins together with out any filler and u end up with a very small bead

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