Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
JoeyTA22

Fabrication Pics Thread

Recommended Posts

what electrode and size are you using?

 

surely the welder has amp control...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was trying to do moon cresents LOL failed I know.

Theres no option to turn amps up or anything :S

first off id suggest reading the manual to grasp whats what, but i assume you use the min/max and 1/2/3(?) toggle switches to adjust amps

 

and before practicing in welding 2 pieces together, get a reasonable sized bit of plate steel and just run practice beads until you get a bit of an idea what your doing.

 

dont overwork the welder either, it is a cheapie so it will be prone to overheating easily. give it breaks and let it cool down/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using standard electrodes, don't know what size.

The machine is simple, and pretty old, don't think it has any dials, doesn't look like it.

It does not overheat at all, no matter how long I use it for, it just doesn't. Done about 2 hours work on it once, and didn't fail!

This thing is a beast!

 

I'll take a pic of it tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using standard electrodes,

u mean G,P's? general purpose rods?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

C'mon man it has to have amp control. Usually its a pole looking thing that slides in and out of the top of it, probably has a clamp of some sort.

What the f**k are you talking about moon crescents? Just learn to stick one piece of steel to the other would be a start. You'll find that your hand naturally weaves and makes moon crescents anyway, well mine does anyway, maybe I'm f**ked.

The best place to start would be grab a piece of flat steel 5+mm thick and crank the amps right up and go to town on it, laying down flat welds straight. This will get you to learn how to strike an arc and stop start when you think its getting too hot. (protip: only stop for less then a second otherwise the slag will cool off too much and contaminate the weld)

Then grab another piece of flat and put it at 90 degrees and weld the V between the two. It would be ideal if it were the same thickness.

Then if you've got more steel lying around grab a thinner piece of flat (preferably less than 3mm, probably not much less though) and put it on a 90 and weld it to the 5+mm flat. That way you'll learn to concentrate your heat on the parent metal after the first few times you blow the shit out of it.

THEN maybe have a go at welding those 2 pieces of pipe you had together, well whats left of them anyway.

ALSO welding isn't a race, slow down and let it burn in. Too many beginners go too quick, there isn't enough weld there. I'll edit this if I look at your picture again on my computer, I'm on my phone and couldn't be f**ked opening the picture.

ALSO it's a fine line between sitting there blowing an arc just melting the shit out of the rod and the parent metal and digging in too hard. The distance between the parent metal and the tip of the electrode isn't easy to judge first up.

EDIT: 1.5s? Really?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It does not have to have amp control. I know for a fact my old man use to have an old one which did not have amp control. I never used it however.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was using one today that was about 40 years old even it had amp control. Yours must be absolute shite, or a dinosaur :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cross bar added to the main hoop today...

 

d449105d.jpg

joey been doing any more work matE? im looking forward to seeing some progress

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah havn't done any more work on the cage yet, been busy with work. Tried to make up some fender braces this arvo. Will try and add a lower bar to make it a triangular shape tomorrow, but not sure how i will go with this as around the wheel arch area is raised and then inclines down towards the lower door hinge quite alot meaning i wont be able to use a flat bar as it will stick out too far and hit the guard.

 

250396_10150256318291843_606966842_7981294_5114799_n.jpg

 

b1bea2f2.jpg

Edited by JoeyTA22

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

make sure reinforce the 90 degree angles u used

i reinforced mine on the other side ( cant see it in the pics sorry )

i could of added another bar to make it a full triangular shape but i didnt think it was really needed, ill do it on the next set i make

 

IMG_1212.jpg

 

IMG_1211.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, going to add some triangular ends to help reinforcement, just tacked welded it all for now until i figure out final layout. Using some flat bar like you have would have been smarter, i'm using some 2.5mm oval shaped type mild tube, going to be a prick for clearance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of "massaging" was needed to keep it lined up nicely and fit under the guard.

 

253388_10150257191306843_606966842_7994852_3497934_n.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not my work but a very impressive RB

 

note the water to air intercooler after the throttle body

 

9eac_1.jpg

 

a490_1.jpg

 

a98a_1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

not my work but still very impressive

 

mustang16.jpg

 

100_4508Large.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this is what a mate and i have done so far on my s12. he welds and i cut, prep, notch and bend as i cant weld for shit haha first time for both of us doing something to this degree. has gone pretty smoothly so far

197228_10150211048508694_621558693_8334410_4625641_n.jpg

199609_10150169488248694_621558693_8195342_7062053_n.jpg

221957_10150228579073694_621558693_8496464_5162170_n.jpg

267623_10150312680623694_621558693_9267594_4848869_n.jpg

rest can be found here

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=470411

 

 

 

and str8e180. i noticed in one of the other fab threads that you did an s15 cage and a few other bits and pieces, is there a build thread for it any where so i can have a look as im going to be building my s15 up once this s12 is done. thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ nah no build thread for that s15

What do u need to know ? Just send me a pm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

some pics of what ive done. I work with heavy steel everyday. pretty boring. Nice to come home and have a play with car fab.

will be attempting a roll cage next. House mate has ordered a bender and notcher from the states

 

Pipe acts as a awesome jacking point that you can see threw the number plate hole in the rear bar. no more laying on the ground

photo1fxo.jpg

5789519702_68d7b04dc1_b.jpg

p1210180.jpg

p122018622.jpg

p1210182q.jpg

p1220185w.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Be gentle, this is my first fabrication project. Basically learnt welding while I was doing this, so some welds are totally shit! but some are OK I think.

 

Well at least I chose something worth while:

RB25DET powered buggy, built with home grown plans (mistake).

 

Here's how it is at the moment, stripped of most gear and biding its time until I have time/money to work on it again (note the bent rear shocks - lol):

 

IMG_20110508_120027.jpg

 

turbo area - exhaust pipe hard to weld, so thin it just blows through...

 

IMG_20110320_102932.jpg

 

turns out it was fairly time consuming to get this all working - had to rush a lot of parts.

 

IMG_20110320_102848.jpg

IMG_20110320_102842.jpg

 

wiring was a mess, took a few weekends but eventually got it sorted really nicely. Yeah it's auto, but I am changing to manual as soon as I can.

IMG_20110313_170942.jpg

C360_2011-04-06-16-39-19.jpg

C360_2011-04-06-16-38-48.jpg

 

yes thats a keg as fuel tank. Some time in the future it will be a fuel cell :)

C360_2011-04-06-16-39-03.jpg

 

C360_2011-04-06-16-17-08.jpg

 

welding the bottom bits. tube is rollcage stuff by the way, except for the blue tube which is erw

IMG_20101016_122856.jpg

 

used a notcher and MIG to get results like this, I know it's not the best, but it hasn't come apart yet!

IMG_20101016_143249.jpg

 

nearing the end of the project I could almost lay a proper weld.

IMG_20100918_155441_2.jpg

 

after some mud work

messy.jpg

 

it's missing something in this pic, see if you can find what...

aftersomehotlaps.jpg

 

that is all for now, hope you enjoyed and had a good laugh. PS the only stuff that broke were the arms - mild steel bends easily it seems. The rear shock top hoop bent a bit, will reinforce that. The rest of the chassis is A-OK still! :D

 

Suggestions for strengthening chassis are welcome. And note that all non-aluminium body work is being replaced, screw rust!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nah man he's missing his radiator lol... wonder where that went haha not the best thing to loose whilst out in the bush..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's not missing rear track as much as the body is ridiculously wide :) ... bit of a f**kup while doing the initial design. Wasn't supposed to be that wide, but I couldn't change it without wasting a lot of tube.

 

it's standard R33 track on the rear with 30mm spacers.

 

Yeah the rad popped out of its mount and fell over - lucky the pipes didn't come off. The water you can see is from the overflow tube coming off.

Popped it back up and continued on, put in a more thorough mount when I was back at the farm :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

turael where u from ? i would love to go for a ride in that

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, I'm from WA, and the buggy runs out at Lake Grace on our farm.

 

Going to get a lot of work done to it before its next day out. It is a lot of fun to drive though, even with the auto.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to do the same thing with the rb20 sitting in my shed. Probably a smaller more lightweight more narrow and shorter frame though. Id build some sort of bonnet and gaurds over the engine if you havent already, would get mega dirty and muddy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heres my latest fibreglass fab

 

Factory fit front bumper intake kit ( Its a bit rough but just a mock up at this stage )

 

postintakekit2.jpg

 

postscoop.jpg

 

postplumb.jpg

 

postfitup.jpg

 

Needs some black dimond mesh, I made a cover for it so if its pissing down ( puddles everywhere ) I can alan key it on

postbumpscoopdone.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the good old days , a cable tie and a flexi pipe .

Haven't tested it yet, thats always fun

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Subscribing

 

Edit- btw sidies, def like the airbox and feed

Edited by Paranoid Android

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×