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180SXXXX

180SX ,still problematic

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The 180 drove completely terrible on the way home today!, I hooked up the consult cable/laptop again and its now showing error code 34( knock sensor,16 starts). The knock sensor itself is only about 2 years old and was new/geniune when I bought it,I'm now thinking the Knock Sensor loom is damaged so i need to find a second hand loom and then get it Rewired by a sparky.

 

If anyone can help me to get hold of an SR20DET Knock Sensor Loom please! let me know asap

 

 

EDIT!!!!: I just looked under the car at the Knock Sensor and the f**king Sensor is Broken!!?,will it damage the car driving it about normally until I get a new sensor?,I need my car to get to work and back

Edited by 180SXXXX

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Nah you'll be fine without it for a bit, you can pop a resistor in there to stop the error codes until you get a new one if you want, can't remember what resistance, have a google for nissan knock resistor, think it's around .05 ohm

Edited by Judas

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Im having knock sensor problem aswell with consult coming up as error code power is still fine down low, the car does not bog down or miss. just have to replace it soon sick of seeing it in the fault codes.You want to use a 1 mega ohm resistor but can do with 560 k ohm as this will trick the ecu to say knock sensor is operating correctly. the ecu is looking for the 2.5v at all times. If the ecu does not see 2.5v it throws the code instantly and possibly retards timing which will be the bog down low.

Edited by Memz180

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I had a thread on here a while back and was told to use a 470K resistor and thats what I put in last night but it didnt help cause the car feels like your driving with the handbrake on!, looks like I have the wrong resistor in there.

 

I have another Knock Sensor on the way and cant wait to get it because its almost unbearable driving the 180 to work now,.

 

As to how the end of the Knock Sensor broke off I'll never know!?

 

 

 

Edited by 180SXXXX

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I've done a few hours of research about knock sensors and have conducted many tests using multi meter and resistors etc lol I can safely say the 1 mega ohm works perfectly as I have tested this on my own car. I also have 570k ohm this will also work as the resistance of the knock sensor itself measured is around 570k ohm

 

Lastly I think its going to be a ass of a job trying to get to the knock sensor ill be trying in 2 weeks see how it goes.

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I've done a few hours of research about knock sensors and have conducted many tests using multi meter and resistors etc lol I can safely say the 1 mega ohm works perfectly as I have tested this on my own car. I also have 570k ohm this will also work as the resistance of the knock sensor itself measured is around 570k ohm

 

Lastly I think its going to be a ass of a job trying to get to the knock sensor ill be trying in 2 weeks see how it goes.

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I've done a few hours of research about knock sensors and have conducted many tests using multi meter and resistors etc lol I can safely say the 1 mega ohm works perfectly as I have tested this on my own car. I also have 570k ohm this will also work as the resistance of the knock sensor itself measured is around 570k ohm Lastly I think its going to be a ass of a job trying to get to the knock sensor ill be trying in 2 weeks see how it goes.

 

It IS an ass of a job,I have replaced my original one not long after I bought the car 4 years ago and it took me hours to get it swaped for a new one!, even with the Starter motor removed it was near impossible to get the bolt out of the Knock Sensor cause of the Heater Hardlines right above it. Tonight I tried for over 2 hours to get this one out by reaching in at the side of the starter motor but again I cant get that bolt out!.

 

I got the broken bit out of the Sensor loom but thats all I got done!,when I looked at the Knock Sensor plug I was a little puzzled cause the Knock sensor has 2 pins on it and when I looked in the Knock Sensor Plug there were 2 openings but only 1 has Contacts in it, the other opening is completely empty!? is this normal? it makes no sense to me..

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Thats normal the knock sensor on the block is earthed out so the 1 wire coming from knock sensor is the resistance which cuts the voltage back down to 2.5v. From the other harness coming from the ecu one wire would be your earth and the other the constant 4.8v that ecu provides to knock sensor.

 

Would a wrenching spanner work with getting to the bolt ? Its a 12mm bolt ? I've jacked the car up once before and yer it looks impossible.

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Before removing just check with multi meter find any ground in engine bay and other just contact the right pin on the knock sensor harness should read in resistance .56 k ohms at all times.

Edited by Memz180

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