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mitch bucannon

Some of my Fabrication Pics

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to resize the easiest way i have found is

open the picture in ms paint

press ctrl + w

 

i havent had much chance to do any thing automotive related lately wish i did after seeing all the cool stuff u guys are doing

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Wow someone doin quads for sr20 yumyumyumyumyum.

 

What's one looking at ka-ching wise?

 

Always had my eye on a ikeya formula chamber at $3000 I could part with the cash cos I know the results.

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They are the efi itb's u can get it From

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?cPath=326_327_633&products_id=120

But it looks like mitch has his own sexy plenum camber on it

 

I didn't know they make Universal itb's I might look into these instead of ripping throttle bodies of other engines and adapting them to fit

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?cPath=57_49_32&products_id=121

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Absolutely awesome work mate , inspirational smile.gif , keep them pics coming !

 

 

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This is a full exhaust i made for a Civic. Didi my head in making the headers! They had to be a certain length to all the mergers, and shit like that. Like, within 10mm if each other!! (length wise)

 

 

post-29176-12988858266608_thumb.jpg

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Hey mate love your fab work. Just read every page, very impressive stuff.

 

I just have a quick question: In the 3rd pic down, i noticed you have a dual flow regulator on your tank? Im just starting out with tig'in, loving every bit of it but im trying to look for a cheap/easy solution for back purging specially with stainless tubing as im getting alot of sugaring on the inside. Is your flowmeter a diy jobbie or did you buy it like that off the shelf? I know you can buy Y adapters and stuff but wouldnt know where to start as far as thread size etc goes. Im using a D size argon bottle side feed. Tried searching on the net but didnt have any luck.

 

Thanks in advance and please post some more of your work as you go

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This is a full exhaust i made for a Civic. Didi my head in making the headers! They had to be a certain length to all the mergers, and shit like that. Like, within 10mm if each other!! (length wise)

 

 

PICT0416.JPG

Image077.jpg

 

Image078.jpg

 

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PICT0410.JPG

 

PICT0413.JPG

 

Hey mate love your fab work. Just read every page, very impressive stuff.

 

I just have a quick question: In the 3rd pic down, i noticed you have a dual flow regulator on your tank? Im just starting out with tig'in, loving every bit of it but im trying to look for a cheap/easy solution for back purging specially with stainless tubing as im getting alot of sugaring on the inside. Is your flowmeter a diy jobbie or did you buy it like that off the shelf? I know you can buy Y adapters and stuff but wouldnt know where to start as far as thread size etc goes. Im using a D size argon bottle side feed. Tried searching on the net but didnt have any luck.

 

Thanks in advance and please post some more of your work as you go

 

 

 

Well spotted!

 

It is all off the shelf stuff. I just bought 2 flow meters and a Y piece and also, a 45deg male female adapter (otherwise they would hit each other) and screwed it all together. It works perfectly, as you would expect. It is very very easy to operate and adjust while purging. When not purging, you just turn the other flow meter off. Takes less then a second, no tools either just turn the knob. It's not in the pic, but i usually have the purge hose permanently connected to the 2nd flow meter, so when i quickly want to purge something, i'm not having to go and get tools.

 

One of the cons to this setup is that there are now more than twice as many places for it to leak from. Getting all the connections to seal, and have the flow meters vertical and not touching each other can be a bit tricky at first.

 

 

Have a look at this link. The top one is the same style as mine (Flow meter) which is, in my eyes, mandatory for TIG welding. It has a regulator and a flow meter. Regulator brings the bottle pressure down to a reasonable pressure, then the flow meter decides how much gas you get.

 

The bottom one is definitely usable for TIG, but far from optimal. One shit thing that annoys me is, when the bottle pressure decreases (from normal use) the outlet pressure increases. So, if you do alot of welding like i do, you have to really keep your eye on it, and keep adjusting it accordingly.

 

http://tokentools.co...ategory16_1.htm

 

Hope that helps!

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Just found these pics of a custom S13 intake manifold i made about a year ago. Thought i'd put it up considering i'm lagging in the upload department lately. Apparently some drag thing, don't know specs on the engine/car sorry. I put a billet fuel rail on it too.

 

 

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dude your holding back hard i just looked on the hypertune site and there's pics of beua yates trd sprinter

did you do all that custom work

i know its a silvia forum but the fab work on that car is just amazing

 

can you post up any fab related pics from that car would be much appreciated man

cheers(sus,engine,cooling,interior) any pictures would be great

 

I'll see what i can dig up for you.

 

 

 

Hey mate,

 

Thanks for the reply Re Flowmeter, Ill duck down to a local welding shop and see if I can pick up a Y adapter and another flowmeter and do something similar.

 

 

 

Not a prob man. Glad to help, let us know how you go.

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love you work id kill to be able to weld ali like that

 

do you run the cnc at all? or just fabrication?

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I run the CNC tube bender but not the mills or lathe. And do the Welding and Fabrication. Thanks dude, it's all practice! Anyone can do it.

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Here's a little Datsun 1600 we have at work at the moment. Really cool little car, it has all the right bits in my eyes. It's going to be quite the streeter when it's done. thumbsup.gif

 

 

Quickshot 2011-06-04 at 16.27.47.5020.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-04 at 16.27.54.8810.jpg

 

Quickshot 2011-06-04 at 16.28.00.5560.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-04 at 16.28.05.6010.jpg

 

Quickshot 2011-06-15 at 21.54.40.2950.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-15 at 21.54.41.1130.jpg

 

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You guys can follow the build here:

 

http://www.qpdc.info...&t=565&start=20

 

 

 

Thought i might add, i finally got my car tuned the other day.

First time it made 209kW at 17PSI with no cams

 

So i put some Nitto cams, Nitto RAS, BC springs and retainers. Everything else was the same.

 

And it made 260kW on 18PSI.

And 235kW on 12-13PSI.

 

I'm pretty happy now that i can drive it, instead of looking at it all day everyday. I'm running the boost controller through the Haltech, which is a bit poo, so might get a new EBC to bring it on earlier and harder.

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More for the Datto...

 

 

Heres an oil cooler i made today. Started off being 175mm longer and 30mm higher. Clearly not going to fit where i wanted it to, so i cut the thing down and made it fit!

 

 

Cut it down to the size i was happy with and clean up the chopped end...

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.23.17.4430.jpg

 

 

Then i chopped a bit of 3mm sheet and got Pete to machine some slots in it for me...

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.44.9660.jpg

 

 

 

 

Like a glove....

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.23.04.5180.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.37.9970.jpg

 

 

 

 

Then bbq it together...

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Fold up some end tanks, weld them on, then weld on some -10 fittings and some brackets. I also put a dress plate on the bottom to match the top. Done.

 

 

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.40.0070.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.46.9410.jpg

 

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After that i pressure tested it to 110 PSI. All good!

 

 

 

 

Does anyone else use Injector Dynamics 725cc injectors in a standard manifold? When i got my car tuned he said the injector setup wasn't ideal. Like at low air speed the fuel is running down the inside of the runners maybe, or maybe a voltage problem. Still have to do some testing. I put my injectors on a flow bench and looked at the spray pattern, then looked at the inside of the stock mani and imagined the spray pattern. :) Far from ideal!

 

So to test this theory i moved my injectors closer towards the valves! Here's how.

 

Firstly i hacked all the shit off that was the standard injector pocket. Once a semi uniform roundish runner was made i was left with rectangular slots. So i chopped a bit of 6mm plate to fill the holes and welded them in. Ground and linished the inside and outside and was left with a blank canvas to work with. Then i made this fixture...

 

 

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.51.0430.jpg

 

To bolt in the mill at the right angle and machine some new holes for some injector bosses we make.

 

 

Like this, but obviously i have already welded them in, in that pic.

grggreni.jpg

 

 

 

 

Then weld them in.

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.42.4560.jpg

 

 

And the inside too. You can sorta see where the rectangle piece is further up the runner.

Quickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.49.2310.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-17 at 18.22.38.8600.jpg

 

 

I haven't finished grinding the inside of them yet! Once thats done then it's ready to slap back on the car! Hope it works!

 

The most logical thing to do would be to just grab a multi meter and check whatever you have to check (i don't know i'm shit with wiring), but no, i do something 10 times harder first no.gif. I'll be pretty upset if it's only an electrical problem. Oh well, at least we can rule it out. But im pretty sure it'll help considering the spray pattern.

 

 

Enjoy!

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Wow, such amazing work.

Im so coming to you for all my fab work....you dont happen to be moving to Brisbane are you....lol

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top notch welding mitch

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Simply amazed at your shit. How long have you been welding for? Since I started my current job at the start of the year I have been getting into the welding side of as many jobs that require it as I can. But I definately aspire to be doing shit like yourself in the future. Unfortunately I don't really have an 'expert' per se to tell me what I'm doing wrong so it's all learn as I go and whatever I can read on the internet.

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what kind of settings are you using to weld cast alloy as per the above pics? bit hit and miss for me with cast..

 

btw will be mailing you in the near future for some small fab parts and a 102mm throttle body :D

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top notch welding mitch

 

 

Thanks You Sirthumbsup.gif

 

Simply amazed at your shit. How long have you been welding for? Since I started my current job at the start of the year I have been getting into the welding side of as many jobs that require it as I can. But I definately aspire to be doing shit like yourself in the future. Unfortunately I don't really have an 'expert' per se to tell me what I'm doing wrong so it's all learn as I go and whatever I can read on the internet.

 

 

Thank you! I've been welding for about 7 1/2 years. Good to hear about your job, see if you can "accidentally" change some shit that will require alot of weldingwhistle.gif. If you can don't just rely on the internet for info. There are some good welding forums out there, which are certainly helpful, but books have been around for just a little bit longer than the internet has, and there are millions of welding books with lots of info for you to consume.

Keep practicing as much as you can!

 

what kind of settings are you using to weld cast alloy as per the above pics? bit hit and miss for me with cast..

 

btw will be mailing you in the near future for some small fab parts and a 102mm throttle body :D

 

 

 

 

It depends what type of casting it is, and what type of weld it needs. You have to remember that cast Aluminium is like a sponge. For example, an old engine sump thats been through a million heating and cooling cycles, will be harder to weld than a fresh one.

 

Firstly, for the prep, with pretty much every cast job i do, i use a Aluminium carbide burr in a die grinder to get rid of all the surface sh[t and bring it back to a uniform shinyness. Then i clean it with a top quality Thinner just before i weld it.

 

Settings wise, to test how bad it is, i just keep it on a "universal" setting then strike an arc on the job, and bring the power on really slow until you make a puddle. If that happens without too much black sh]t coming through, then ill just weld it.

 

If you do that and you can't even get a puddle without an endless amount of taboulie coming through (this is worst case scenario) then it'll require some love.

I'll turn the balance to full cleaning. If i'm having trouble with the tungsten ball flying all over the place i'll turn it down just enough to tolerate. Straight away you should be able to tell a difference, not only in the sound but there will be less taboulie.

 

Now the important bit, once the machine has cleaned the taboulie out, and you've made the first fusion, and it's shiny and all is well, you add your wire as normal. When you move along a bit, more sh[t will come up and its a never ending story. So, after you add your wire and you move along, you have to stay there, and hold it on the same spot, drop the power enough so the puddle solidifies and just sit there and wait for the magic cleaning action to do it's job. You can play with the power up and down a bit and give the torch a wiggle if you have to. Nothing happens instantly, certainly this.

 

Eventually, it will become a shiny puddle ready for some wire. Don't expect it to be shiny like sheet Aluminium, but it will be better.

 

A good practice thing for this, is to get something really dirty (for welding standards), like an unprepared old SR inlet manifold casting. Set your balance to full cleaning and try this technique. When you first strike an arc, you'll think, this is bullsh]t, but, eventually it will become nice, not perfect like sheet aluminium, but definitely highly weldable.

 

Try that and tell me how you go.

 

 

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Well i finished moving my injectors today!quagmire.gif

 

 

Quickshot 2011-06-19 at 21.09.58.5210.jpgQuickshot 2011-06-19 at 21.09.53.8830.jpg

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I'm really happy with how the inside turned out, considering it is sunday and i was rushing.

 

Once i had finished porting the inside i just linished both surfaces flat again, deburred all the edges and gave it a clean.

Pulled the mani off my car, and swapped all the bits over and fitted it back up. I had to make another fuel line aswell.

 

 

Quickshot 2011-06-19 at 21.09.52.0910.jpg

 

 

 

Looks a bit weird in the bay. Not used to it yet. It's probably about 40mm lower at a guess.

 

Anyway, i fired it up, and at first i thought sh]t its even worse, as it was running like a CA (thumbsup.gif). Got it up to temp and it sounded normal again. I didn't have time to give it a long drive, but from a 10min drive it seems to have virtually fixed the, low air speed, injectors being sh]t, problem. So ill have to book it in for a tune and see how it goes! Although not fully confirmed success, i am a bit relieved that all that effort hasn't gone to waste.

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that quad tb sr in datto looks familiar :)

nice work mitch its come up very nice.

 

 

 

Aah that's right he did mention you!thumb.gif

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I must say your quality of work Is freaking awesome

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the airbox on that datto is awsome! it will be mental on the street.

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I see you are just a beginner

 

No your work is awesome mate keep up the pics. Gives good inspiration for my own projects.

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shit, nice fabrication skills !

 

epic thread

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Master craftsman.

 

As everyone else has said your work is amazing. Thanks so much for sharing your photos :thumbsup:

 

Amazing what can be made with the right hands!

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