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Your car - what's happening?

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I like evo's too but only the evo9, and they are above my budget. This rexy was just right!

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Im pulling out the gay two way this weekend

Putting the helical stand s15 diff back

I want to get skme higher ratios for the helical

Like 4.11 or 4.4 anyine know I if you can chnge the crown and pinion

On the standard helical I cant see why not though

Any one know where to get them from

I never thought the 2 way would make it handle so shit on a tight track

Looking to also get some fake brides that are adr approved or some other nice

Reclinable buckets

I found some fake ones on ebay with an apparent adr approval

Any one know if this is legit?

Also looking to get a set of wheels for the street so I dont f**k my semis

Was thinking something light weight like re30's in 9+35 all round

Or tracers in silver 9+30 all round

Or on the heavy side some xd9's in bronze

20131124_135325.jpg

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if theyre fake how can they have approval? or if they say they do how do you know its legit? i duno but id never run fake seats, seems pretty bloody silly

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What would be the down side to running fake seats?

Mostly the build quality wont be as good as a genuine so it's a safety issue

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if theyre fake how can they have approval? or if they say they do how do you know its legit? i duno but id never run fake seats, seems pretty bloody silly

 

God knows

I'll post the approval tag the guy selling the seats sent me

I got knocked back from an engineer for a set of bride Gias sports because they aren't adr approved

I've checked out fakes before and the ones I looked at we're pretty bloody good

 

Might get a set of sparcos or velo

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Might get a set of sparcos or velo

I would go the velo's

No reason why I just like the look of the velo's

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just get something that u know wont have engineering issues, even if its spending more money at least you have peace of mind

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Won't need to engineer a set of Velos, has already been ADR approved for you.

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If you look around you can pickup genuine seats very cheap, run out models, end of year specials etc.

 

I got a Velo Podium for $500 as an example.

 

A mate of mine picked up some genuine Brides for very good money also, people are always trying to swap him/buy them.

 

A good hunt can turn up gold.

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I guess he wanted brides for the recliners. Id just get velos or sparcos.

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What would be the down side to running fake seats?
Mostly the build quality wont be as good as a genuine so it's a safety issue

 

I've heard stories where this one poor dude had his fake bride seat snap in half during an accident and left him with spinal injuries. His missus was in the passenger seat also running a fake bride as well and got impaled in the leg from it crumbling.

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the dudes selling fake seats will say anything. just because it says they are adr approved, doesn't mean they are.

 

velos are comfy as f**k and made in australia

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2380 for a piar of podiums with side mounts

so probaly 2500 plus engineering here in qld would bring it to 2750 all up

might just run the risk on track days and whack my bride gias in the car for the day i think and spend

the money on sticky tires and a full sick aero package lol

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2380 for a piar of podiums with side mounts

 

when they say it comes with side mounts they are referring to the brackets

u will still need to get rails made

 

one thing ive learnt is your better or getting custom solid rails made for fix back bucket seats

remove the sliders and have it solid mounted so its as low as possible

if u have a cage and your wearing a helmet your going to be tapping the cage and the seating just doesnt feel comfy being that high up

 

u can get the seat so much lower compared to rails u can buy off the shelf

the only downside about this is u cant slide the seat back and forward but if your the only person who drives the car it doesnt matter

 

 

this is one i done ages ago

done it like this so the velo could be removed and replaced with a standard seat just by undoing 4 bolts

once u start hacking up the floor pan your never going back to a standard seat if u get defected

IMG_1036.JPG IMG_1312.JPG

IMG_1313.JPG IMG_1314.JPG

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I can confirm that, see the last few pages in my build thread or what we did - which involved cutting that centre brace out.

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a full sick aero package lol

on a street car this would be deadly

this i got to see !!

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not much of an update but i bought a carbon wing blade from empire aero

 

its a nismo copy

 

i call it a Giz-mo

 

goes really well with my carbon wing stands

 

IMG_4532.JPG IMG_4590.JPG

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HI all, I have bought my first nissan S13 CA18DET last October and have spent most of the xmas break getting it prepped for its first track day. I am coming from the wonderful world of FWD Suzukis into a RWD for my first time, I am looking forward to a new learning curve in both driver experience and car setup.

 

Thus far I have stripped out the interior and most sound deading (such a boring task), added in my 4 point seat belt button harness, which is now for sale as it does not work with my Harns device. I have added some gauges, replaced the crappy 16mm radiator with a 58mm thick cross flow with baffle and a thermo fan on an in car switch. Threw in a BOV as it doesnt come factory and just checked over all components.

 

Suspension: It came with some diff (unknown), S15 5stud conversion with R33 LCA front and some castor rods, not sure if they will add castor in yet as when wound all the way in they are the same length as standard, machine job. Front strut brace with engine steady and a set of 17x9 wheels all round and leaning towards some Hankook F200 slicks.

 

 

I am hopping to have the car ready for Eastern Creek on January 31. If anyone is going I am driving a 4x4 style S13 in purple with black wheels and will be with a bloke in a red Gti and VL wagon. Pop in and say hi.

 

 

Cheers.

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Welcome aboard fellow CA18 driver, we're a dying breed it seems!

 

Car sounds like plenty of work has been done already.

 

If you're keen to track it and don't know the history, I'd suggest taking a look at the fluids.

 

You swapped out the radiator so the coolant should be fine, maybe grab some water wetter if you like.

 

Do the brakes get swapped out when the 5 stud is done? I'm not sure as I did brakes but stayed 4 stud. If the brakes were done, fluid should be fine, but it depends what was used. Super cheap auto Dot 3 is not going to like track work.

 

If you're drifting some new PS fluid will be nice, if you're sprinting it won't matter as much. Clutch fluid is normally fine unless it's ancient. Oil change of course and consider an oil cooler, I've got a standard Just Jap one and it works really well.

 

Otherwise just check all your suspension bolts are tight, pads are good, rubber is healthy, seat is mounted securely, battery is secure etc etc.

 

Have fun :)

 

EDIT: My build thread is in my sig, so feel free to take a look at my bucket.

Edited by ActionDan

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Won't be much of learning curve going from FWD to RWD... the Nissan S-chassis is so insanely forgiving that any clown can drive them very quickly on the track. I mean that as a compliment to the car; they can be really, really fun (and fast!) to drive without having to master crazy or un-intuitive driving techniques. For the first track day... bring tools and basic spare parts; the track will make it clear if any of the major systems on the car are not working adequately (mostly cooling, braking, clutch, etc).

 

ps. just because I binned my CA for a 1JZ doesn't mean I don't love the CA18... they're so good :o

Edited by mUnky-matt

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Cheers guys. I have changed engine oils, diff oil, gearbox, filters, cleaned a/f, throttle body, new sparks and a general clean up. I am running some Hawke DC 10s and HT 60 brake pads with all new brake fluid through the system. I will bleed brakes again the day before. Ive had the car sitting on stands and have gone over every bolt I can find to make sure all is good. My new rear rotors and longer front studs come in on thursday so this weekend I should be able to finish it off, then its a wheel alginment and tyres.

 

I have read alot about the S chassis being a easy car to drive, but as car setup is so different compared with a FWD I should find the techniqcal side interesting and really enjoy the driving. Need to be able to go flat round turn 1 EC.

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You'll love it.

 

Simple suspension tuning take the being a drifters delight to a solid grip performer.

 

Mine is a grip setup and for the money, not much else comes close really.

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Grip is the only way, as it still includes a little drift as you push hard through corners on the edge of grip and, if your unlucky and push too hard, you get a little bit of a rally experiance. LOL.

 

I am going to have a look at your build ActionDan try and get some ideas. Do you find that you get oil surge? We found this in the Gti's so we installed an oil accummulator. So when I chase up my oil cooler after a success first outing, I will fit one of these as well. Cheap insurance.

 

 

Looking forward to this new venture, need to beat my Wakefield time of 1:13:05.

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Hey guys need help on what should do I need to buy to finish my s14 aiming for mid 400's rear wheel horsepower this is my set up....

 

S14 SR20DET Block

Crank has been X rayed, Nitrated, Crack Tested and Balanced

Arias Rods

ACL Pistons

ARP Rod Bolts

Tomei Poncams 256duration 11.5mm Lift

Greddy Intake Plenum

HKS GT2840

Tial 44mm External Wastegate

GFB Harmonic Balancer

ACE Waterpump

Nissan Genuine Oil Pump

ACL Race Series Bearings

Braided Turbo Lines with Speedflo fittings

EMS Stinger....

 

Just wondering what do i need to support fuel system and im limited to skilled tuners should I pay $1000 to get auto sparky to wire it in or buy a better EMS??? plz help

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My build isn't a great example as I've not been able to track the car much in the last few years.

 

Have a look at http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=522141 He's always happy to answer questions too.

 

Also http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=463836&st=0 Though he's less friendly if you're not tracking the car regularly. That said, the sheer fact I've made that comment might ensure he's nice to you to prove me wrong, so that's a win for you :D

 

Those two track their cars regularly, and though they aren't CAs, they have a lot of experience with actually racing the S chassis and tend to be fairly active in doing so.

 

I've had no issues that I know of with oil surge but I'm not very quick and I was not aware that CAs were prone to it like RBs.

 

I'd looked at AccuSump setups as they appear cheap but thought I should really focus on getting the bloody car to the track before I worry about more mods.

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Hey guys need help on what should do I need to buy to finish my s14 aiming for mid 400's rear wheel horsepower this is my set up.... S14 SR20DET Block Crank has been X rayed, Nitrated, Crack Tested and Balanced Arias Rods ACL Pistons ARP Rod Bolts Tomei Poncams 256duration 11.5mm Lift Greddy Intake Plenum HKS GT2840 Tial 44mm External Wastegate GFB Harmonic Balancer ACE Waterpump Nissan Genuine Oil Pump ACL Race Series Bearings Braided Turbo Lines with Speedflo fittings EMS Stinger.... Just wondering what do i need to support fuel system and im limited to skilled tuners should I pay $1000 to get auto sparky to wire it in or buy a better EMS??? plz help

 

E85 or pump fuel? The set-up will change dependant on the fuel.

 

$1000 to wire in the EMS seems a lot of money. I would get a new ECU or a Nistune for around $700 fitted and tuned.

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Im in cairns QLD so best fuel i can run is BP ultimate. Whats a good place to buy Nistune from? How much is involved with fitting to SR20det?

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