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blind_injustice

the Black Engine Bay Masters!

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Dan, you might be onto something there. Would prefer no sign of welds but.

More pics if you can.

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Yeah I'd grind those welds down completely if you're after that look.

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there's a few pigeons under that bonnet.. not only fluttering sh*tting on the I/C pipe welds as well.. :thumbsup:

 

in saying tht its a better standard then my welds.. :whistle:

 

in regard to the hole in the batery tray, heard you can get collars for the hole now that reinforces it to ge tthe road worthy off your back

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Dan, Did you have any issues with heat soak?

I'm going to do an In bay but every C**T keeps telling me not to.

Obviously im going to space the rad/cooler apart.

 

 

Cheers.

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Nearly Finished. Just going to make a cover for the oil thermostat, CBF'd replacing the fittings with the black ones that are now available. Also getting rid of the headlight vent soon.

IMG_01471.JPGIMG_01501.JPG

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Sorry to put this here , just noticed some of you spoke of using the VHT high temp paints....and i know its a little off topic but have any of you used the VHTcaliper paint... regarding curing the paint, it says to cure within 7 days after painting to help with heat and chemical resistance but does it become more durable in terms of physical contact/ chipping with tools etc.

 

i am just putting them back on the car now to cure under normal operation and i tested an inconspicuous area to see if it would chip easy or not...and it seemed a little bit easy to chip

also prep was all done properly.. i took calipers completely off the car, degreased, took them back to bare metal, wax and grease remover, proper painting procedures, 4 coats, etc.

so i was wondering as it has only just been over 24 hours, the paint seems kinda easy to damage, will this be rectified by curing or should i maybe go get some VHT caliper clear and do a few coats first

 

 

EDIT- decided to give it a few clear coats first then put the smaller half of the calipers 'rear calipers' in the oven to cure, but it doesn't make a whole heap of difference ,

the only thing i can think of is maybe i went too heavy on the first coat but they are ok, just don't like the idea of having to be super carerfull of damaging the paint work.... i will definitely powdercoat next time.

Edited by Paranoid Android

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Yes after the heat cycle. Note, if you heat it up too much (brakes get too hot) it does fall off before this all happens. Clear VHT paint can go yellow too.

Edited by Suspop

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yeah thanks mate... i cured the whole lot in an oven, the finish looks really good but i just don't know how long they will last, if they don't I will just pull them back off and do them again but properly i guess.

 

I have done a front caliper since and noticed it came out better 'more durable',

so the first coat on those rears may have been a bit heavy and the next coats didn't have anything to bite into.

 

I put them on today...also got a set of DBA cross drilled and slotted rotors cheap, don't really like the gold hub though.

new rotors.jpg

Edited by Paranoid Android

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how much did you get the rotors for? where from? lol

 

ive found that the brake stuff is a bit more 'runnier' compared to engine enamel as well

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HOW IS THIS A f**kN BRAKE THREAD?

stop killing it.

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haha yeah sorry about jacking off on your thread, I mean hi-jacking the thread.

 

But yeah I actually got them for $120 each (rears) from repco over a year ago, but the manager was a good friend... The prices at most places varied about $230-$290, I remember autobarn wanted about $296 a piece or something...pffffttt

 

But yeah I just got fronts, they cost me $180 each through friend, elsewhere supercheap were the cheapest at $230, fronts are larger and usually cost more.

 

I only upgraded the rotors cos i needed new ones anyway, but i didn't mind supporting atleast one australian company on my Jap car.

 

And yeah no more brakes stuff either f**kwits....lol

Edited by Paranoid Android

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Painted my cooler piping black, pod enclosue black, strut brace in black + strut brace mount, engine damper in black.

 

Didnt get to do the other strut brace mount as one of the nuts has stripped itself and still need to paint the lower half of pod enclosure

 

I think I just need to get a black pipe for the catch can and possibly remove the gktech sticker.

 

BTW piping isnt clamped down, just put it in there to see how it looked.

DSC00260.JPG

Edited by nitro_d

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whats the general population doing on sr with bovs for stealthness? standard, aftermarket plumback, atmo, or half half?

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whats the general population doing on sr with bovs for stealthness? standard, aftermarket plumback, atmo, or half half?

 

Plumback is really the only way to be 100% safe whether it be standard or afermarket. In saying that mine is atmo and damn obvious lol

Depends what your after, the only real reason for upgrading a BOV is to hold more boost but if you want sound and to hold boost get a half half. GFB has heaps, they even have a cabin controlled bov.

Edited by nitro_d

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You can modify the standard bov to hole more boost.

 

It's fairly easy too, there are a few tutorials hanging around on it

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You can modify the standard bov to hole more boost.

 

It's fairly easy too, there are a few tutorials hanging around on it

 

Believe its called 'The Grub Screw Mod'

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has anyone actually done the mod? when i had the standard bov i ran 1bar no problems.

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yes been and done plenty

 

search NS for it,

 

takes about 15 mins out of your day

 

it has held my 16psi for years no probs so i think?

 

very off topic !!!!!!!!!!!!

although i cant contribuite to the black engine bay, i am however one for neatness ! some fine examples

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This thread is open to all discussions on paint types that can potentially be used within an engine bay. But please do try and keep it somewhat on topic.

 

Steven. What mods on your 1 jay ?

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Been meaning to post up pictures of my in bay for a while.

 

Dan (-LCD-) made the in bay. Makes the whole car look stock. Running a low mount Kinugawa TD06SL2-20G under stock heat shields, Stock airbox, Z32, forged motor and all the other goodies.

 

The rad and Intercooler is painted in VHT satin black. Cars still running factory aircon set up and making 240kW on about 17 pounds.

 

20120118_115507.jpg

 

20120118_115523.jpg

 

20120118_115540.jpg

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Steven. What mods on your 1 jay ?

engine is stock as far as im aware

front mount, blitz nur turbo back exhaust, has jic coilover but got the toyota tems covers over to hide, boost tee set to 12psi, goes good for a daily

what it looked like when i got it

197766_10150385927734115_653069114_10313647_2385497_n.jpg

just lightly sanded off the pastel blue and satin black, also took off all the corrugated blue hose covers

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my engine me gusta black.. have a black steampipe to go on too. black sump, block, plenum, rocker cover

 

395691_10150662357290873_632650872_11313832_466577030_n.jpg

Edited by ziptie

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haha i know... gate is a bit obivous too ahwell i tried lol

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Just a before and after of my engine bay, The first pic is my hideous engine bay a few weeks ago and 2nd is now obviously.....We don't really have many issues with defects and stuff up here I just love me some black engine bay and mine was over due for a tidy up.....still have to respray the rocker cover etc. but I'll have the rocker cover off soon for some work anyway so I'll do it then.

 

old 15 bay.jpg

 

new 15 bay.jpg

Edited by Paranoid Android

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