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shogun!

Shogun, from stock to extreme +700hp

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absolutely insane build up mate top work all round ;)

 

are you gonna push this engine maybe to its breaking point to get high hp readings or do you reckon it will last forever? must be some pretty extreme stresses going on in there

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Got a Haltech solenoid to control the boost very accurately at each load point.

 

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This is how it will be installed but with the exception that I will use two external Tial wastegate valves.

 

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This story has quite recently been published in a Swedish tuning magazine. The styling will of course look very much different with the Wide Body, new Front Bumper and more ;)

 

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Another short story published in 2010. Winner Round 5.

 

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Edited by shogun!

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hey mate great build. so glad you changed your mind with the body styling :P

 

with the fuel set-up you posted, you should move the " low pressure pre pump filter" to after the fuel tank and before the 1st pump. the filters should go before the pumps not after. so the high pressure filter can go before the high pressure pump (after the swirl pot), but would still be worthwhile retaining the factory filter before the fuel rail.

 

 

-dan

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Some of todays work:

 

 

New bushes on the steering rack.

 

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SPL and Tein outer and inner tie rods and Driftworks lower arms.

 

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Bought some 30pcs of Mikalor Supra Clamps in different sizes.

 

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If I can afford it (yes I can) I am possibly investing in a good set or tyres.

 

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Picked up my new Tial waste gate valves from Svensk Turboservice yesterday. They came straight from the Tial assembly line in the USA.

 

Worth waiting for! They are the new, upprated version with integrated water cooling.

How small are they? I compared them with the earlier bolt on 38mm Tial WG and I can tell you. They are very small! Good! Since I do a twin installation and there isn't much space to talk about.

 

MV-S V2.0

This revamp features water cooling ports, three bottom air ports and two top air ports. Water ports are not required for operation, but come in handy at road racing, the top hat is close to the turbine housing/down pipe or when the engine bay doesn't get a lot of airflow. Air and Water ports are clearly marked so there is no confusion.

 

(mine are silver/aluminum coloured).

 

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Sometimes the difference between big and small is very obvious :)

 

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wow nice build you have there, keep updating haha

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looking good still man..

 

havent heard anything about those type of tials until now.. did they make a water cooled version of the 60mm? i only just bought my 60mm tial like a month ago haha.. are they having problems with them overheating or something?

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looking good still man..

 

havent heard anything about those type of tials until now.. did they make a water cooled version of the 60mm? i only just bought my 60mm tial like a month ago haha.. are they having problems with them overheating or something?

 

AFAIK they only made this on the MV-S WG. I had a look at Tials homepage and they do not mention anything about water cooled V60 in the new developments section. Reason why they developed them with Water cooling is not a problem with overheating. I quote Tial:

 

Water ports are not required for operation, but come in handy if you are road racing, the top hat is close to the turbine housing/down pipe or you have an engine bay that doesn't get a lot of airflow

 

Good choice that Tial of yours. Bet you are using a pretty large turbo on your engine :D

Edited by shogun!

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The new Driftworks adjustable suspension arm kit. Soon to be Satin Black

 

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All new control arms are now painted satin black and the front suspension is mounted and finished :)

 

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Today I made a major investment.

 

I bought a spigot bushing for a massive $8 :D

 

Part no. is 32202-7f401

 

For those not familiar with the term, the spigot bushing is a bronze sleeve bearing in the tail end of the crankshaft which carries the nose of the gearbox input shaft to provide proper alignment of the clutch disk.

 

Soak it in oil for a day or two before you install it. The oil penetrate the tiny holes in the bushing.

 

The old one is removed with a rod just a tad smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing and some ordinary grease. Fill up the hole with grease, put the rod inside the opening and tap it with a hammer a few times. The rod will press against the grease and the grease will force the bushing out. May take some harder taps if the bushing is a bit grumpy.

 

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Today I installed all rear lower arms and suspension arms I got from Driftworks.

 

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Lots of pins to crimp on the cables for the DTA-ECU. Only remain some heat-shrink tubing and they are all done. The photos show the sensor cables. The Power cables I finished earlier.

 

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The entire DTA-package turned out to be quite small but oh so powerful :)

 

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looking good man, do you have a turbo manifold yet??

 

also is it just me or is your radiator on a lean?

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looking good man, do you have a turbo manifold yet??

 

also is it just me or is your radiator on a lean?

 

Radiator is just standing there. Not final installation.

Manifold I have lots of different versions. Now when engine is in, I can make a fixture for the new large turbo and the two wastegates and start welding a good manifold

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Some tiny bits for the fuelsystem Teflon Stainless Braided Fuel Hose is nice.

 

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The improved engine bay :D

 

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The Real Deal :D

Two times Bosch 0580 254 044

Enough fuel/E85 for at least 1000BHP ;)

 

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