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Nigel

The modified/ aftermarket knuckle thread

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would spacing it out so far there be like running a really wide or low offset wheel, or lots of spacers? Ie give it a nasty scrub radius that would just rail the firewall and tub unless the car is real high?

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More like extending the LCA

Not sure how that relates to scrub radius though, that shits beyond me

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there are better options out there. that dont need rack spacers. however extended LCA's are always a benifit

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It would be great to see some hey man knuckles? Hows this for incredible!!!!!

 

takurou_watanabe_knuckles_004.jpg

 

takurou_watanabe_knuckles_003.jpg

 

takurou_watanabe_knuckles_001.jpg

wow thats alot of lock

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yeah made in ireland.. i saw these first hand while i was over there. pretty cool stuff.

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Do the front Lower control arms effect grip or the way the car handles at all? by that i mean no tension/castor rod as such just a lower control arm?

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Do the front Lower control arms effect grip or the way the car handles at all? by that i mean no tension/castor rod as such just a lower control arm?

Longer control arms = more track = more grip.

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Do the front Lower control arms effect grip or the way the car handles at all? by that i mean no tension/castor rod as such just a lower control arm?

Longer control arms = more track = more grip.

 

Don't think you understand what i'm asking or you have issues reading. The LCA has less tension/castor rod adjustment due to the design it is making the adjustment from closer to the chassis then normal LCA would This would have a effect on suspension setup and your castor settings effecting the steering/stability so i was wondering if anyone has used this setup and see any effects at high speed

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the TDP set up is similar to that of the wisefab kit in that it has inbuilt castor trail added to the knuckle so this means you do not actually need to dial in mass castor through a tension rod

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Read through the entire thread a few times and really appreciate the information you guys have put up, it has been invaluable in forming plans for the new front end in my R31.

 

After weighing up all of the locally available options I decided that Garage 7 was the way to go, mainly because I've only heard good things about Decs and he's helped me out a bunch in the past.

 

I organised a group buy and the first pair of knuckles rocked up today.

 

IMG_20140205_131549_zpsozmkgkct.jpg

IMG_20140205_131608_zpsb0wp8ccr.jpg

 

I am absolutely rapt, the arm design is exactly what I was after and I can't wait to get them in the car!

 

I've already had issues with my tyres hitting on the inner guard (as well as the top lol) so I am planning on chucking in some S14 LCAs for slightly wider track. I will be running GKTech high-misalignment tie rod ends for the time being but will be finding something better in the near future, as these turned up in a disgusting state after waiting for them for quite some time.

 

As far as alignment goes I've been told that these knuckles work best with between 10mm and 20mm total toe out, so I'm planning on starting with around 12mm and going from there. Camber will be set at around -4 degrees and Castor at around 5.5-6 degrees. I'm open to suggestions here though so if anyone thinks that I'd be better off trying something else, I'm all ears.

 

I'm pushing to have the car ready for the Winton Matsuri so will report back after that. If anyone else is down there, feel free to come and say G'day :)

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can't see so much toe out at winton being a good idea. 4 out total would be the go.

 

as for the tierod ends, if the knuckles were done correctly then stock ones work perfect

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Drove at the Winton Matsuri over the weekend and had an absolute blast! The Garage 7 knuckles were absolutely incredible and I would recommend them to anyone. Combined with the S14 LCAs (compared to S13) I had a heap more grip, both during turn in and mid corner. Lock was pretty similar as I'm still running stock lock stops on the S14 LCAs (stupidly cut them off the S13 ones) but there is plenty more in them that I'll be experimenting with in the near future.

 

IMG_3504030460569_zpskjmj8lnz.jpeg

 

As you can see, the reduced ackerman was pretty obvious on lock and it felt amazing. The straight line possible while on lock was something I hadn't really felt before and I really look forward to driving it more.

 

Here's some in-car footage:

 

 

I'm not a great driver by any means but I feel that the knuckles gave me a real improvement and a lot more head room to learn.

 

Here's some older footage for comparison. Apologies for the obnoxious Bronson beats, I've been converted to raw footage and will do upload like that from now on lol.

 

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Confucius say...

 

All need are of practice if you have the skills of drifter you'll do this with any car true.....☺

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Sounds like something you'd find on a 90's HKS sticker or something haha

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Hey guys, ANY input is appreciated. Also forgive me if I have overlooked the last 99 pages

 

Have recently just installed PSM S14 Knuckles - current one piece forged ones

 

1351547346_2_FT10622_dsc04360.jpg

 

Setup is as followed:

 

GKtech offset rack spacer

Standard S15 LCA

Standard S15 Tie rods

17x9 +20 Offset with 25mm spacer to make -5 offset atm. -3.6 degree camber

-1.5 toe setting

Modified lockstops (basic reweld)

 

Im getting binding issues on full lock from the wheel turned in, I have been advised to either raise it a bit or hammer in the inner wall area

 

EDIT: Sorry car is a S15 - also advised the inner guard/wall area is more narrow/closer?

Edited by matausi

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how much castor?

 

you're getting binding on the trailing wheel? it might be hitting the castor rod of the wheel arch, usually bind affects the leading wheel

Edited by Simon-S14

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how much castor?

 

you're getting binding on the trailing wheel? it might be hitting the castor rod of the wheel arch, usually bind affects the leading wheel

 

I found it is the inner guard hitting both the front face and rear of the tyre at full lock, if that makes sense

 

I have been advised to raise it, is there anything else to do apart from extended arms etc. to keep it at the height I want it. People have also advised to bash it in with a hammer

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your gonna need longer lcas

 

Did abit of inspecting myself, with the drivers side wheel removed, Passenger wheel is clearing fine lock to lock.

 

Only way to clear this binding is raising it stupidly high - a little higher than stock.

 

I could hammer it in a bit but would rather alternatives for now. A friend has suggested maybe the castor is a bit off on the scrubbing side? Can post pictures

 

Wouldn't think going 30mm spacer would change much. Baffled that one side clears whilst its binding up only on the drivers side wheel

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Piss of the spacer and lengthen LCA's Like Simon said.

It changes the point of where the wheel pivots rather than a spacer giving it a wider sweep.

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