Jump to content

Boost issues: will an Electronic Boost Controller fix it?

Recommended Posts



Having few issues with boost on my S14.


Standard ECU, FMIC, 3" exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, that's about it.


I made an Autospeed manual boost controller (Set up DIY #2... http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Boost-Controller-Roundup-Part-One&A=2836 ) setup for my S14 years ago and it worked fine when l had the boost set around 16psi.


But having moved to a warmer climate (QLD)

, I turned the boost down to around 13psi. Problem is now below 4500rpm, it only has 8-9psi, and then creeps up to 13 psi.


Is buying an Electronic Boost Controller going to fix this issue?


Set the car up with short pipes to the Intercooler, kept stock T28 etc for quick boost, but now not really getting boost.



I've spent copious hours researching different EBC, but can't see if it will fix it. Seems the type of solenoid or how the EBC is mounted effects the performance.......


Looking at eBoost2 or eBoost street... but want to ake sure it will do the trick.


Thanks in advance.




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You're over-thinking this. First test the system in an 'uncontrolled' state, see what it does, then decide on your controller.


Disconnect your boost controller and cap all the lines, then disconnect the line going to the wastegate and plug it all up. Get some wire or a ziptie and strap the wastegate lever arm shut, so you're boosting with NO wastegate. Go for a some hot laps up and down your street keeping a close eye on your boost gauge, you don't want to over-boost after all, and see how it performs.


If you aren't hitting 13 psi in that configuration or the pressure builds slowly, then no EBC or reed valve will solve the problem. The best scenario an EBC can achieve is to have the wastegate flap shut 100% until you hit the target pressure, for maximum response, and you're replicating that action for free.


If the boost is weak/lazy with the wastegate out of the picture, the issue is likely going to be related to an intake leak, in which case do a pressure test. The alternative is that the root cause lies in the tune and any components relating to ignition, in which case hook up a Consult cable and Nissan DataScan1, then check out the sensor output for inspiration.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now