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The Big Fist

Z32 vs Z33 Vs RB25 Vs ? Gearbox Options

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Lol, grinder fo lyfe str8'y

It bolts to the front cover so no need for accuracy.

Will post up some pics later.

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Take x1 z33 gearbox from Concept Z.

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Unbolt useless brackets.

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Unbolt remote shifter asembly

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Stare at shifter linkage thinking I don't want to try to undo that.

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Find roll pin behind rubber boot

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Knock out roll pin.

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Steal idea from Mazworks video. Use a 1/4" (6mm) spacer to mark around the rib.

Then realise your pen doesnt work. Clean the oil off bell housing and mark it.

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Now, I used a grinder with a cutoff disc. They recommend a reciprocating saw. Couldn't be stuffed buying one just to do the job. If you ahvent used a grinder then strongly recommend NOT using one. They are dangerous and you need to control the cutting depth precisely. Wear protection, full face mask etc. Cutting ally doesnt spark so a full face is ideal just in case !

Clench spinchter and start cutting. I would cut /check /cut /check. You can see I didn't take into account the disc thickness and so my 6mm is now about 10mm gap. I had to adjust my cutting line.

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Oh yeah wrap the input shaft first !

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You can see there is one really tight area you have to be super careful. If you go too deep you will hit the front housing or worse behind it.

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So i cut all the way around but not through the internal ribs. This held it all together. I then put a bit of wood under it so the bell housing wouldn't collapse onto the grinder disc when it came off, and then slowly cut through.

 

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Are you welding them together with a jig? Or are you using the engine to line every thing up ?

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Its a bolt on there is no welding.

 

Did you go the Carbon shaft option? I did :)

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I thought you cunts knew everything. it's a bolt on kit. bolts to the front cover not the bell housing. the bell housing is superfluous. more pics when I get near comp.

 

p.s

cunts

just for dose pipe.

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So the bell is housing off.

Go around now with your flap disc and clean up the edges so they are nice smooth.

Then mark up that weird knobby bit and procede to chop it off and then clean that up too.

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Next on to the input shaft !

Clean up the front cover face from all the ally dust and uncover your shaft (lol).

I stole this idea from the Mazworx video again.

Measure in 3/8 from the end of the shaft. Use a cable tie to give you a nice consistent edge to mark around the shaft.

Or do as I did and just angle grind against the cable tie.

It's quite hard to get it straight. Once done, use the flap disc to clean up the edge and put a chamfer on it.

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I should add that I covered up the input shaft again before I cut it.

Edited by The Big Fist

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Next step !

Make sure the gearbox is empty of oil ! I should have done this at the beginning but, you know, these things happen.

It's a prick to do with no bell housing as it sort of rolls around.

Once drained all over your feet and floor, undo the ball pivot and front cover bolts and slide front cover off.

Let the gearbox drain the remained of oil from the 4 bolts holes at the bottom with the orange sealant.

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Being a new gearbox the seal was in great shape. The Mazworx kit comes with a new one so we used it anyway.

We also cleaned up the bell housing input shaft seal, making sure all the bits of foam were removed.

When it came over the foam packaging worked its way into everywhere !

We had a few ho hum thoughts over what bolts to use. The kit is very comprehensive but the instructions are a little vague with no real mention of which bolts to use where or if you reuse any. After looking at the Mazworks video old mate ich-go worked out which bolts were which.

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See the bottom 2 bolts are SHCS. There's no room for flanged bolts so these had to be used in that position. The other thing which concerned me was the bottom 4 bolts in the previous picture had oil coming out and from factory had sealant on them. The instructions didn't mention any sealant so we decided to put a bit of thread sealant (small amount) down the bolt hole before screwing the bolt in with some loctite on the end. Fingers crossed that will seal it all up.

 

Bingo bango

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Z33SR20 gearbox.

 

You can see the gap around the bell housing to adapter is larger than normal. Structurally it's fine. I am a little concerned it might fill with rubbish so am thinking of running a seal of something around the gap to fill it up. Maybe just a strip of expanded foam or something.

 

Next step is clutch / gearbox install and driveshaft. The driveshaft is not the fancy carbon one. Just the super light Ally one.

And that's about it for 2 weeks until I get a free weekend to finish it off.

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Nice work, i'd prob run a thick bead of silicone around/in the gap.

And when cutting aluminium, run the disc through wax every so often. Will cut heaps easier

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Cheers, Didn't need any lube, it just cut through it like butter.

I thought about silicon but because the gearbox side is a bit hollow it would be hard to get an even bead without pumping in too much.

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fk eh! bolt on indeed, i havent seen this kit before granted not looked for conversion kits in a long time ha.

 

looks good mate :)

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hmm.....not sure I agree on the welding.

Might run the numbers and see what load is required to shear the bolts.

Personally I think it's stronger, once you look at the thickness of the bell housing, even taking into account the longer distance from the pivot.

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If welded I think you can't get to the input and counter shaft (??) bearings.

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Yep if welded you would need to cut the weld to get to the front cover off.

Ran some numbers based on 11 x grade 8.8 M10 bolts, average distance from input shaft of 100mm. 69,115 NM to shear.

I think we're good.

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I thought AO didn't go through with the Z33 kit. I read their many paged review of how the Z33 was unsuitable.

For people who don't like permanent changes like cutting bell housings, cutting tunnel it's probably not the best kit.

Plus it isn't a cheap conversion. However when you factor in it's a new box, no need to change diff ratios PLUS you keep 6 gears then you can see the pro's.

One of the big reasons I went this over the adapter plate was it keeps the clutch slave on the drivers side of the car. If you use the adapter plate you need to move your clutch to the opposite side which may interfere with front or dump pipe, possibly...maybe. the kit also allows you to run a concentric slave if you really want to get fancy.

 

One of the semi dodgy bits about the kit is you need to run the s13type clutch setup. The Z33 input shaft is a bit too long (hence why you cut part of the shaft off). They provide a tool so that you press the pilot bushing slightly deeper into the crank. If you needed to remove it later on it may be a bit of pain, not sure.

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Yep if welded you would need to cut the weld to get to the front cover off.

Ran some numbers based on 11 x grade 8.8 M10 bolts, average distance from input shaft of 100mm. 69,115 NM to shear.

I think we're good.

 

unless you are going to generate 6911.5 tonne of sheer stress, you should be right !

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what I was saying the AO Kit for a Z32 isnt' cost effective for S15s because you need to also change your diff ratios too, so the overall cost goes up. Finding 3.9:1 ratio diffs aren't easy.

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