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Wanting some more kws out of the Silvia but it is n/a, it has bigger cams and injectors at the moment but I'm just wondering if there is much more you can do to it. Want to get it up to around 150kw.

 

Any Ideas ?? Cheers

Edited by Casey

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Ah, another n/a thread.

 

In b4 "Add a turbo and E85". It's correct but I'm assuming P plater..

 

N/A is f**king ridiculous expensive in $/kw gained, building an N/A engine is probably more expensive overall than just dropping in an LS1 and calling it a day. Certainly more expensive than just selling the S15 and getting an S2000. You can even get 200hp Civics because Honda make decent N/A engines.. and they weigh f**king nothing too.

 

You get better results just removing shit off the car - all the interior trim, sound deadening, stereo, lightest wheels you can get, etc. Remove aircon obv. Get a much higher ratio diff - that's the only thing that costs money.

 

AE86 is another good option for N/A because again, they weigh nothing and maybe more importantly, not a Honda. Dat Takumi tax tho.

Edited by Skepticism

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So there's not really much you can do without wasting your money on a n/a s15 ? And what diff ratio

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wait wait, did you want 150 rwkw or at the crank? crank kw, just buy an autech s15..

 

rwkw = $thousands

Edited by Skepticism

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Wanting some more kws out of the Silvia but it is n/a, it has bigger cams and injectors at the moment but I'm just wondering if there is much more you can do to it. Want to get it up to around 150kw.

 

Any Ideas ?? Cheers

 

It says that you already have an Autech S15, meaning you already have higher CR and bigger cams. It is 100% not worth your time spending more, and intake mods will not net you sufficient power gain to either be noticed, or be worth the small value degradation attributed to vehicle modification.

 

Please understand that overboring, stroking and raised compression can net some really nice results on an all-motor build like a small block Chevy or a 425 Hemi, as their displacement is far from fully-utilised in stock form, but the gain really isn't all that great on a small displacement, high-compression 1998cc 4-cylinder engine. The usual path on 4-cylinder NA builds like K-series Honda engines is to really increase the redline to gain more power by spinning faster, however that's where things get expensive and tend to break.

 

TL/DR; your engine is already strung out from the factory, it runs higher compression than standard, and bigger cams will only serve to crush low-end torque, making it less fun. Bigger injectors are absolutely not needed, as you really can't force any extra air into it, being an NA. I'd suggest focussing on handling, braking mods, interior/ICE mods, or simply enjoy the car for what it is and get a turbo version later if desired.

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To add to the Civic/Honda thing, a big part of their N/A build advantage is that the VTEC heads are far better than the SR20DE/DETs, VTEC does much more than VCT (just look at the flow benefits of the SR20VET head swaps over DE heads), and the cars are FWD. Unlike a RWD Nissan, 200-300Hp in a light FWD is quite enough to have fun, and is the point at which you start to encounter torque-steer issues due to the nature of driving the front wheels. Although a lot of the Honda crowd crap on about NA being the sickest thing ever, considering the chassis of their cars, keeping it NA is actually a fairly decent option for them, but it's the un-fun option for the RWD crowd.

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autech motor

6 speed box

4.3 diff

Plenty of suspension mods and extra bracing

=

Definately enough car and enough stuff to do while you're on your p's to enjoy your car man.

 

If you drive heaps more powerful cars than that tbh you can't really enjoy them properly on the road without losing your license anyway.

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Oh and probably a good idea to do heaps of servicing stuff on your car to get back any kilo wasps it's lost over the years since production!

 

Obvious stuff like oil and filter, and maybe less obvious things which people might over look like fuel filters, spark plugs, O2 sensors can be a common thing to f**k out on sr's, air filter, clean your throttle body and maybe IACV

 

All that sort of junk can make your engine run a bit better

 

And upon inspection look into Replacinf stuff like bushes, bearings etc etc to accompany your handling mods :)

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VE head, 14.5:1 Compression, big cam, porting and a whole lot of E85 should do it no sweat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ps. sell all the parts to me when you're broke

Edited by Junny

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TBH I would totally love a stripped S13 with a blueprinted bored VET and 10,000rpm mazworx head. It's just that if you're spending $20,000 on an engine you might as well build it for turbo? Haha.

Edited by Skepticism

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TBH I would totally love a stripped S13 with a blueprinted bored VET and 10,000rpm mazworx head. It's just that if you're spending $20,000 on an engine you might as well build it for turbo? Haha.

 

and that 20k NA motor will still be gay compared to a stock S15 motor with a decent turbo bolted to it and some nice cams.

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Cheers for the helps guys it's already got

 

kts coilovers

Go tech strut brace

Boot brace

Extractors

Full stainless exhaust

 

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One other question is there away around stopping my tyres rubbing when I turn with lifting it, guards are already rolled still rubbing when turn.

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No reason not to spend dollar on the suspension and handling and braking if you have plans to turbo it/ drop a different turbo motor in it later

 

Just depends if you want to keep the car or buy a new one later

 

 

Also if he's made the decision to buy this now why not make it more fun and handle better? Fk the "don't do shit till you have a turbo" idea. This car can still be heaps fun without a turbo

 

Just don't try race people at the lights and your ego will never be ruined

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Fk the "don't do shit till you have a turbo" idea. This car can still be heaps fun without a turbo

 

 

this is why you see Honda owners eventually turbo charging their car.. when they were 18/19 they said turbo sucks, NA is the best... ra ra ra then a few years later they realise.. damn I only can make this car go faster by either increasing capacity OR turbo charging it to increase the volumetric efficiency of the motor to produce more power.

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TBH I would totally love a stripped S13 with a blueprinted bored VET and 10,000rpm mazworx head. It's just that if you're spending $20,000 on an engine you might as well build it for turbo? Haha.

 

and that 20k NA motor will still be gay compared to a C63 AMG with a decent turbo bolted to it and some nice cams.

 

Edited to maintain consistency ;)

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I loveeeeeeeeeeeeee C63 AMGs - makes me hard everytime I hear one or see one in the flesh..

 

runs 12s STOCK

does sub 10s around wakefield STOCK

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I know, hence the joke :P

 

Saw one parked near work yesterday, looked alright.

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I loveeeeeeeeeeeeee C63 AMGs - makes me hard everytime I hear one or see one in the flesh..

 

runs 12s STOCK

does sub 10s around wakefield STOCK

And costs a gajillion dollars STOCK ;)

 

Don't spend a dollar on it, save it for a turbo S15 when the time comes.

This.

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I am an Autech owner too. Cost benefit ratio is very shit with N/A, but whilst your on your P's you can

 

1. Change the Diff to a R33 GTST auto its a 4.368 must be the GTST Auto with the speed sensor connection ~$200 off ebay

2. Replace clutch fan with some used Falcon thermos.

3. Change blow by to a better setup for a cleaner mixture. I used a vacuum pump

 

If you are more serious then go weight reduction, delete A/C etc. Get good tyres maybe the GKtech new rear knuckle

If you even more serious about N/A then look at nitrous, water/meth injection, and get a stand alone ECU (nistune wont work) and get a tune.

Even more serious get ITB's, change pistons to up the compression, port and polish VE head etc...

 

Far easier to sell and get a Spec R later. Unless you are like me and want to do something different, I am supercharging my Autech B)

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Step one: sell autech s15

Step two: but Australian delivered s15

Step three: obtain exemption because under 125kw/ton

Step four: ???

Step five: profit

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Nistune won't control water/meth/nitrous injection is what he meant.

 

 

Some (weird) guys in the states go all out on NA SRs. There's one with a completely worked 2.4L high-comp VE mazworx motor. Would be pretty fun to drive! But that's >20k worth.

 

Only reason doing that sort of thing would be if class regulations called for it

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Nistune won't work with what nitrous?

when my car was na I had a zex nitrous kit and was running a stock ecu, the zex Was a dry kit which also had a box that hooked up to the vacume line on the fuel pressure reg to bump up fuel

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No, I meant Nistune wont work with an Autech/SR20DE S15 ECU, I contacted Nistune myself and they said that type of ECU is not supported for whatever reason. That was some months ago, things might be different now. But at the time they advised if I wanted to do it I would have to use a NA S13 ECU or something like that.

Edited by matth23

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Nistune won't control water/meth/nitrous injection is what he meant.

 

 

well, you could use the Boost Map table and connect the trigger for your water/meth to the factory boost solenoid output...

 

This table is driven by TP Load & RPM... winner winner, chicken dinner :)

 

You could potentially map cell for cell.. so those cells that activate the water/meth will also advance timing and richen up mixture!

 

No, I meant Nistune wont work with an Autech/SR20DE S15 ECU, I contacted Nistune myself and they said that type of ECU is not supported for whatever reason. That was some months ago, things might be different now. But at the time they advised if I wanted to do it I would have to use a NA S13 ECU or something like that.

use a DET ECU, just rescale the TP Load columns to suit.... then convert from the gay dizzy to coil on plug.. better yet, just use the DET loom and coils

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