Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
jbonevia

Onevia conversion

Recommended Posts

How to do a onevia conversion.

UPDATE: 16/11/03 - finally bought a digicam so have added some pics!

 

Introduction:

 

Swapping from a Silvia to an 180sx front end is not as easy as you may imagine. Working solidly, it took me half a day just to bolt the panels on, and an estimated 12 hours to get all the wiring working correctly. I know of others who have done this swap and have had great difficulty with the wiring of the headlight motors, it was my aim all along to have the operation work as the factory intended, having both a button to control the up/down movement of the headlights and have them interfaced with the lighting switch on the arm on the steering column.

 

It is possible to bodge this, and just have a button to control the headlight up/down movement ? but hey, if you are going to do it, why not do it properly!

 

I am not an electrician or a mechanic, so I may have done things in a way that is not technically correct. All I can say is that it all works for me.

 

I was however familiar with the way automotive wiring works, could read a Nissan wiring diagram and knew about the operation of relays and switches, so I suggest you need to be confident in your abilities before attempting this.

 

A standard 180sx has the following components to control the headlight motors and headlight operation.

 

·  Headlight switch (standard on all S13?s)

·  Retractor switch (up/down control for the

headlight motors, located on the dash near where

you put the key into the steering column)

pic of installed switch 23332035.retractorswitch.jpg

·  4 relays ? 3 in the fuse/relay box near the

passenger side headlight assembly, 1 in the main

fuse box near the battery

·  Headlight timer ? small black box located

behind/above the engine computer in the

passenger footwell.

 

To keep things neat and so I didn?t have to run too many wires all over the place, I mounted all the relays and a small fuse block within the relay box at the front and put the Headlight timer next to it, I may have issues with water over the long term but it has been six months and counting so far, so I think it should be OK.

 

 

Parts necessary:

 

Panels:

 

·  Bonnet

·  Left and right 180sx guards

·  Headlight covers

·  Complete front bar assembly

 

Note: If using the later model (SR20) front bar ensure you obtain the front bar guard extensions and the later model guards, although they are the same shape as the early model (CA18) ones, the late model guards have extra holes and clips for mounting the front bar extensions which ?wrap? around the lower front of the guards. If you get early guards you will need to drill holes in them and obtain the correct clips.

 

The plastic guard linings are the same 180sx to silvia, so you can keep your original ones.

 

Here is a pic of all the panels bolted onto the car:

23333814.oneviafrontside.jpg

 

Electrical:

 

·  Headlight/motor assemblies (including plastic

covers)

·  Side and front indicator/parking light

assemblies (the guard indicators have different

connections left to right, if possible get two

left hand indicators as the connections are

compatible with the silvia ones, and when

installed look the same anyway)

·  Retractor switch (up/down switch from dash)

·  Headlight timer box

·  Correct relays. Three of 1T (1 Transfer) relays

and one of 1M1B (1 Make 1 Break) relay. Details

are shown in S13 manual.

 

General:

 

·  S13 English manual (can be obtained in pdf

format), I strongly suggest you obtain this and

take note of pages EL (electrical) pages 38-42

and GI (general information) pages 7-9. Can be

downloaded from a couple of places - do a search

on this forum for the URL's.

 

The wiring layout of all electrical components will be detailed in this document however.

 

Parts desirable (to make life easier):

 

I was lucky in doing the swap as I was able to get hold of the following parts:

 

·  180sx relay/fuse box ? (strongly recommended)

this is the relay box located in the front of

the engine bay, near the passenger side

headlight. I cut this out of a 180sx wreck and

removed any wiring/plugs that I did not need

from this.

·  All connections/wires ? (essential) I had a

spare wiring loom to strip for any extra wires,

which in itself is not essential but it enabled

me as much as possible to have the correct

wiring colour scheme. I also got all the

male/female connectors I needed from the 180sx

wiring loom which are absolutely essential to

provide solid connections to all the components.

 

 

Tools/Equipment required:

 

·  Screwdriver set

·  Socket set ? at least 10mm and 14mm sockets for

this job

·  Spanner set ? again mainly a 10mm spanner would

be used.

·  Wire strippers

·  Pointy and flat nosed pliers (they always come

in handy)

·  Razor blade or sharp knife

·  Soldering Iron & Solder OR decent wire

connectors (don?t use rubbish ones, they will

only give you problems later)

·  Electronic Multimeter

·  S13 manual ? see ?parts necessary? section above.

 

Before starting:

 

Make sure you read and understand to an extent the wiring diagrams from the S13 manual. I basically followed these diagrams when creating the wiring loom, and with a few exceptions this should be all you need to do. Also allocate enough time to complete the job, so you don?t have to drive the car when the headlights do not work properly.

 

 

Start job:

 

Panel work:

 

Bolt on all panels ? I won?t go into the intricacies of this job, as it is relatively straightforward. Watch out however for hidden bolts that attach the guards and front bumper to the body, you will need long extension pieces for your 10mm socket to reach some of them.

 

If you don?t want to do the wiring on the same day, it is possible to plug the standard silvia headlight connections directly into the back of the globes in the 180sx headlight assemblies, and manually put the motors into the upright position. This way your headlights will work as normal but the motors will obviously be inoperable and always open.

 

Here is a close up pic of the RHS headlight assembly bolted onto the car. Holes have to be drilled in the rad support panel for the two silver bolts at the top of the headlight closest to the battery. Also the headlight support bracket on the right hand side of the pic has to be swapped over for the 180sx variant. You can see it easily in this pic as its black compared to the blue rad support panel.

23333259

 

The wiring:

 

Here are a couple of pics of the completed wiring in my car.

 

This pic shows the 180sx relay box installed in front of the airbox in my silvia, just above the relay box is the 180sx headlight timer unit which on a 180 normally resides under the dashboard near the ECU. As you can see the wiring is reasonably neat.

23332033.relayboxcoverontimer.jpg

 

This pic shows the relay box with the cover off. The grey relay is the main '1M1B' relay. The 10A fuse is the entry point of 12V power which feeds all the relays. The taped up wiring to the right of the relay box contains most of the wires that run to both headlight motors. There would be appox 25 wires running to the relay box and 10 wires to the headlight timer unit.

23332031.relayboxcoverofftimer.jpg

 

 

Wiring colours:

 

This is the breakdown of the wiring colour codes used in this document:

 

B = Black

W = White

R = Red

G = Green

L = Blue

Y = Yellow

LG = Light Green

BR = Brown

OR = Orange

P = Pink

PU = Purple

GY = Grey

SB = Sky Blue

 

When the wiring is striped, the base colour is given first, followed by the striped colour. For example R/B = Red with a Black stripe.

 

Before wiring everything into the car, I setup the circuit on a test bench, and tested its operation, this way I was able to know that everything worked and take notes on the wiring colours and any modifications required.

 

I also found it useful to draw pictures of all the standard pin connections on all the components and label them with the pin numbers and the correct wire colour and also where the wire runs to.

 

For example:

 

Headlight motor (RHS)

 

Connector

 

2 X

4 3 ?

5 1

 

This shows a 6 pin connector with 5 pins being used and the top of the connector where the clip being closest to pin 3.

 

Pins

1.  BR (brown)  - runs to LHS motor pin 1,

 retract relay 4 pin 7 and retractor switch pin 5.

2.  PU/W (purple with a white stripe) ? To LHS motor

 pin 2, retract relay 3 pin 3.

3.  BR/W (brown with a white stripe) ? To headlamp

 timer pin 10

4.  OR (orange) ? To LHS motor pin 4, headlamp timer

 pin 8

5.  B (black) ? Earthed.

 

As you can see, if this is done for all components, you will get a pretty good idea of how the circuit goes together, as well as handy notes to refer to when installing in the car.

 

The diagram on EL38 shows the connectors and the pin numbers/colours for all components except for the relays. The manual prints the layout of the pin numbers then provides a mirror image of the connection next to it to show the wiring colours, be very careful that you translate this correctly. All components including the relay have their wiring documented here.

 

The circuit diagram on EL38 shows power and ground connections from several sources, on the car I simply ran a live power wire into the relay box and through a 10 amp fuse and took all power connections from this ? If the 10 amp fuse blows I will upgrade it to a 15 or 20amp but so far so good. All ground connections went to a common wire and was grounded to the chassis next to the relay box, there is already a ground point there for other wiring.

Component wiring details:

 

Headlamp timer:

10 pin connector. Clip closest to pin number 3.

 

6  5

10 4

7  3 ?

8  2

9  1

 

 Pins:

1.  BR/Y ? runs to LHS motor pin 3, retract relay 1

 pin 2

2.  R/B ? runs to lighting switch pin 9, LHS

 headlamp bulb

3.  R/L ? runs to lighting switch pin 12

4.  R ? runs to retractor switch pin 1

5.  LG ? runs to retractor switch pin 2

6.  P/B ? runs to retract relay 3 pin 2

7.  B ? earthed

8.  OR ? runs to RHS motor pin 4, LHS motor pin 4

9.  OR/B ? runs to retract relay 4 pin 2

10. BR/W ? runs to RHS motor pin 3, retract relay 2

 pin 2

 

Note: Wiring should exist for R/B pin 2 as part of the standard lighting wiring loom, will need to tap into it.

 

RHS motor:

6 pin connector, 1 unused. Clip closest to pin number 3.

 

2 X

4 3 ?

5 1

 

Pins

1.  BR - runs to LHS motor pin 1, retract relay 4

 pin 7 and retractor switch pin 5

2.  PU/W - To LHS motor pin 2, retract relay 3 pin 3

3.  BR/W - To headlamp timer pin 10, retract relay 2

 pin 2

4.  OR ? To LHS motor pin 4, headlamp timer pin 8

5.  B ? earthed.

 

LHS motor:

6 pin connector, 1 unused. Clip closest to pin number 3.

 

2 X

4 3 ?

5 1

 

Pins

1.  BR ? runs to RHS motor pin 1, retract relay 4

 pin 7 and retractor switch pin 5

2.  PU/W ? To RHS motor pin 2, retract relay 3 pin 3

3.  BR/Y ? To headlamp timer pin 1, retract relay 1

 pin 2

4.  OR ? To RHS motor pin 4, headlamp timer pin 8

5.  B ? earthed

 

RHS headlamp (bulb):

3 pin connector, no pin numbers defined. NOTE: this wiring should already be in place, and only additional components (eg. the relays) should need to be tapped in.

 

P/B ? runs to retract relay 2 pin 4, high beam switch pin 4

G/L ? runs to lighting switch pin 7

R/G ? runs to lighting switch pin 6, high beam switch pin 3

 

LHS headlamp (bulb):

3 pin connector, no pin numbers defined. NOTE: this wiring should already be in place, and only additional components (eg. the relays) should need to be tapped in.

 

P ? runs to retract relay 1 pin 4

G/Y ? runs to lighting switch pin 11

R/B ? runs to lighting switch pin 9, headlamp timer pin 2

 

Retractor switch:

10 pin connector, 3 unused. Clip closest to pin 6.

 

X

X

1 3  

? 6 2

5 4

9

8

 

Pins

1.  R ? runs to headlamp timer pin 4

2.  LG ? runs to headlamp timer pin 5

3.  SB ? 12V power

4.  PU ? runs to retract relay 4 pins 4 and 6 and

 12V power

5.  BR ? runs to LHS and RHS motors pin 1, retract

 relay 4 pin 7

6.  UNUSED

7.  UNUSED

8.  R/L ? TO ILLUMINATION SYSTEM??

9.  R/Y ? TO ILLUMINATION SYSTEM??

10. UNUSED

 

Retract Relay 1:

1T relay, 5 pins, 1 unused. Clip closest to pin 5

 

 

1 3

? 5 4

2

 

Pins

1.  B ? earthed

2.  BR/Y ? runs to LHS motor pin 3, headlamp timer

 pin 1

3.  B ? earthed

4.  P - runs to LHS headlamp (bulb)

5.  UNUSED

 

Retract Relay 2:

1T relay, 5 pins, 1 unused. Clip closest to pin 5

 

 

1 3

? 5 4

2

 

Pins

1.  B ? earthed

2.  BR/W ? runs to RHS motor pin 3, headlamp timer

 pin 10

3.  B ? earthed

4.  P/B ? runs to RHS headlamp (bulb), high beam

 switch pin 4

5.  UNUSED

 

Retract Relay 3:

1T relay, 5 pins. Clip closest to pin 5

 

 

1 3

? 5 4

2

 

Pins

1.  OR/L ? UNLOCATED ? wire to 12V constant supply.

2.  P/B ? runs to headlamp timer pin 6

3.  PU/W ? LHS and RHS motors pin 2

4.  B ? earthed

5.  SB ? runs to retract relay 4 pin 3

 

Retract Relay 4:

1M1B relay, 6 pins. Clip closest to pin 7.

 

1 3

? 5 4

2 6

 

Pins

1.  B ? earthed

2.  OR/B ? runs to headlamp timer pin 9

3.  SB ? runs to retract relay 3 pin 5

4.  PU ? retract relay 4 pin 6, retractor switch pin

 4, 12V power

5.  BR ? LHS and RHS motors pin 1, retractor switch

 pin 5.

6.  PU ? retract relay 4 pin 4, retractor switch pin

 4, 12V power

 

Problems I had:

 

RHS headlamp would not come on.

 

Page EL40 diagram A-2 shows what happens when the headlamps come on with the standard circuit. I had problems getting the RHS headlamp to come on. Rather than diagnosing the problem I simply wired the headlamp into the original silvia wiring. This probably meant I could have ditched one of the relays and it also means that the headlamp on that side comes on before the motor has reached the fully open position ? not something I am too worried about.

 

Headlights would not retract

 

Make sure you have the headlight timer plugged in as a first step. If it is, I also found that retract relay 3 was not tripping and allowing power to go through to retract the headlight motors. Checking the wiring diagram showed that this OR/L (orange/blue) wire went to a pin on the lighting switch on the steering column, which I could not locate. I determined this wire was required to be alive when the headlights were not switched on. Not being able to find the place to wire this to meant that I wired it to a constant 12V supply running into the relay box, this worked OK and allowed the headlights to retract when needed.

 

More pics of my car are available at

 

www.pbase.com/jb1viaS13_Han37944.8330092593

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×