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rtr_510

CA18det cold start idle

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in the mornings my car idles rough around 750rpm sometimes as low as 600rpm... usually when the car is cold, the air regulator should send a signal to the ecu to make the car idle around 1500rpm, until it is warm... and drop backs down.

 

my ca doesnt do that, it would just idle rough / unstable

 

i have cleaned the following connections and check for broken wires:

 

AFM

Coil leads

coil packs

all injector connectors

air regulator connector

a.a.c connector

coolant temp sensor connector

i hvae advanced the ignition timing

adjusted idle screw

adjusted TPS

 

Now when it is warm the car idles fine.. but cold morning idle is very unstable. I have done an ecu diagnostic test and got 2 errors,

 

coolant sensor

 

and

 

detonation sensor

 

any ides??

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well..if it was the coolant sensor, wouldnt the heater gauge not work?

 

neways, gl, i have the same problem so some1 help us both out.

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o btw..you've forgotten to check one thing.

 

the IAC (idle air controller, different from AAC i believe) which

sits just in front of and below the throttle body.

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I have the same problem and you can't seem to really adjust the idling... <_>

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replace the CTS and clear the fault codes on ur ecu and u will find ur cold start idle will be stable again. worked for me and fixed my fuel ecconomy problem. im assuming ur car is CA?

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hey fellers the temp gauge on the dash is not controlled from the engine temp sensor it goes striagh to the ecu i had that fault on my ecu and i just changed over my engine temp sensor worked fine. made shit all differ but ey

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replace the CTS and clear the fault codes on ur ecu and u will find ur cold start idle will be stable again. worked for me and fixed my fuel ecconomy problem. im assuming ur car is CA?

[/quote

 

What is the CTS because i have the same problem with mine

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if your coolant temp sensor and knock sensor are gone then you will be experiencing amoung other things, retarded timing and richer fuel mixtures. Both of which wouldn't be any good for your cold starts...

 

if your knock sensor is gone you will also notice really crap performance on boost...

 

the IAC (idle air controller, different from AAC i believe) which

sits just in front of and below the throttle body.

 

The IACV system consists of the AAC, FICD and idle adjustment screw, all of which are located on the topside of your engine, between your intake and cam covers, the part underneath the throttle body that you are refering to is called the Air Regulator.

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if your coolant temp sensor and knock sensor are gone then you will be experiencing amoung other things, retarded timing and richer fuel mixtures. Both of which wouldn't be any good for your cold starts...

 

if your knock sensor is gone you will also notice really crap performance on boost...

 

the IAC (idle air controller, different from AAC i believe) which

sits just in front of and below the throttle body.

 

The IACV system consists of the AAC, FICD and idle adjustment screw, all of which are located on the topside of your engine, between your intake and cam covers, the part underneath the throttle body that you are refering to is called the Air Regulator.

 

correct, my cts is stuffed, i do have another spared on, so i will be chucking that in tonight, well c how it goes... my car under boost sh1ts out alot of black smoke so that could also be the problem... i have an e-manage hookup and it has stop the 'detonating'.

 

well c how it goes, and hopefully any1 else with the same prob will be able to fix theirs to

 

i will be checking up on the air regulator to see if there is anything stuck in the opening ( carb/ dirt/ wateva).

 

will keep u guys informed.

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correct, my cts is stuffed, i do have another spared on, so i will be chucking that in tonight, well c how it goes... my car under boost sh1ts out alot of black smoke so that could also be the problem... i have an e-manage hookup and it has stop the 'detonating'.

 

you shouldn't have any detonating if the knock sensor is malfunctioning (unless your emanage is tuned really badly) as the standard ECU will automatically retard the timing as a safety precaution. This retardation becomes far more apparent when on boost, resulting in poor combustion, and a higher occurance of backfires.

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hey,

 

On cold mornings before work, about 15-20 degrees, my car holds steady idle at about 1200 RPM upon start up. It then slowly drops over about 3-4 minutes to about 900-1000 RPM, then i start to drive. Is this cold start idle too low? Would it mean something is f**ked?

 

Thanks,

 

MaTT

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hey,

 

On cold mornings before work, about 15-20 degrees, my car holds steady idle at about 1200 RPM upon start up. It then slowly drops over about 3-4 minutes to about 900-1000 RPM, then i start to drive. Is this cold start idle too low? Would it mean something is f**ked?

 

Thanks,

 

MaTT

 

no your engine is fine lol when you first start the car the air pressure regulator keeps the revs higher about 1000-1500rpms, then once the engine gets warm sits on about 800-900. Thats IF you have adjusted your idle properly

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Idle can be a bitch on the CA18's.

 

My car had idle problems as well.

Coldstart usually went okay, but the idle was shite. (500rpm, 1000rpm, 300rpm, 700 etc. etc.).

 

Once I Drove the car for a while, shut the car down and then wanted to start it again, it was having difficulties.

 

The problems become worse after a while, the engine dropped dead when idle'ing etc.

 

After reading various stuff on the internet, checking all sensors (engine temp, AAC, etc), they were all okay...

 

Then some dude gave me the hint, spray some brake cleaner on your inlet manifold when the engine's running, if it makes a difference, you're gaskets are f**ked.

 

Guess what, they were f**ked! After unbolting the inlet manifold, we immediatly saw that the gaskets were gone at various places. Placed in new ones, problem solved!

 

That's what I would check if I was one of you, it's a simple test, but can save you much time, and loads of frustration...

 

BTW, Does your AAC react on the idle-screw ? Mine didn't, because of the vacuumleak at the inlet gasket (Heard a loud suction noise as well).

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no my idle adjustment screw does work...

 

*UPDATE**

 

I HAVE JUST PULLED OFF THE AIR REGULATOR AND IT HAD HEAPS OF CRAP (CARB N DIRT ) IN IT... GAVE IT A CLEAN... UT NOTICED THERE WAS SOMETHING BROKEN IN THE REGULATOR, EVERYTHIME I SHOOK IT AROUND I COULD HERE SOMETHING BROKEN INSIDE... NEED A NEW ONE.

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My CA18DE is rough on cold starts, round 200-400rpm then either eventualy comes good or stalls. After the engines warm it starts fine but Ive also noticed when accelerating the car seem flat and slower then usual... Any ideas?

 

My car has allways used alot of fuel and not long ago i threw in some new sparkies and the car came good and was running nicely but the last 2 or 3 weeks its been like this.

 

Could it be the sensors said earlier in this thread?

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