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Found 10 results

  1. By now, most people are aware of the ubituous Strawberry Face conversion for the S13/RPS13 chassis, however it's a conversion for which information is either lacking on the Internet, or is conflicting. This guide aims to address the core information you need to know, rather than teaching you how to cut a spot weld or tack the guards together. If you need that level of assistance, it's best that you turn to Youtube tutorials regarding the usage of your tools. I will also point out that whilst opinions are quite strong for or against this conversion, in real life I find most folks like it. If you have an S13 I would suggest you consider using S14a parts/panels for a look that better integrates with the angular chassis, the process is identical as the radiator support is the same between S14 and S15, but if you have a 180sx then the S15 panels are a great choice. Ignore the people who say that it's "too played-out" and that "every second Silvia has that conversion"; the fact that the Internet has a tonne of pics of this does not mean it's everywhere. In the last 5 years I recall having seen only three other Strawberry Silvias in person. From memory I have some old pictures I can add, however they were from the first time I did this and the instructions below contain some improvements. Parts Pitfalls The parts I listed below are what you actually require, with attention to the following points: S15 bonnet hinges sit the bonnet too high, which is why you need S14 hinges. There is however a catch to this. The S14 hinges technically don't fit perfectly, as you will see when you first slot them on and think "wtf is this pmod", however when you torque them down the metal of the bonnet will deform ever so slightly, and then they'll fit great. If you run a carbon/fibreglass bonnet, you will have to experiment with the hinges, as the deformation caused by torquing down the S14 hinges may damage the non-oem bonnet. The S13 bonnet latch is effectively the same as the S15 one, however you will have to use a long bolt and big nut (to act as a gap-bridging spacer) on the center bolt hole. Some people on the Internet recommend that you cut the S13 radiator support to mount the lights etc, however having done this as an experiment prior to removal, I can assure you that it's a terrible idea. You have to cut so much material away that you can bend parts of it by applying moderate pressure with your hand. Trying to mount the headlights is a chore too. Don't waste time even entertaining this idea; do it correctly and change the radiator support. Parts Needed S15 LH guard S15 RH guard S13/180sx LH guard (only require rear section) S13/180sx RH guard (only require rear section) S15 side indicators (pair) S15/N16 Pulsar indicator bulb holders + plugs (pair) S15 Bonnet S14 Bonnet Hinges S13/S14/S15 bonnet latch S15 Front Bumper (including plastic mounting clips) S15 Reo Bar S15 Upper Bumper Support Bracket S14/S15 Radiator Support S15 Headlights (pair) S15 Headlight Brackets (pair) S15/N16 Pulsar [iirc] Headlight Plugs Tools Needed Mig/Tig welder, mask, gloves, apron, spool, gas, etc Spot weld cutting drill bit Electric drill Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs and flappy wheels Nutcert tool/nuts if you want to use one Soldering iron and solder, or crimper and crimp connectors Sandpaper and blocks Rattle can of etch primer and black paint for the spot welds Small and medium C-clamps/G-clamps, vice grips, whatever Metric Socket driver or spanners Screwdrivers Patience Process Step 01. Completely strip the S13 front body panels and brackets Step 02. Use a spot-weld cutter on a drill to cut the spot welds on the radiator support Step 03. Cut the radiator support at the transition to the part that mounts the castor rod braket, unless you want to dick around with bolt holes and alignment issues. Step 04. Remove the S13 radiator support Step 05. Cut the S15 radiator support to match the cuts on the S13 one, with an ovelap so you can weld it Step 06. Bend the battery tray and opposite side as needed to match the S15 radiator support Step 07. Clamp the S15 radiator support in place; don't weld it yet Step 08. Bolt the front bonnet brackets in place; front S14 bracket holes go on the rear S13 holes iirc. At the end of the installation you can either weld a rear nut in place, or weld the bracket to the chassis, as desired. Do NOT leave this unattached as some people recommend, the brack will lift and fitment will suck, but the retention choice I'll leave to your discretion. My preference was to cut a small hole on the side of the rails to hold a nut in place using a spanner, then fully-weld it from the top. The holesaw cut can be welded up as desired. You cannot tap a hole in the rail, so your options are pain weld, welded nut, or possibly a massive nutcert. Step 09. Install the bonnet latch and align it Step 10. Cut the rear section of the S15 and S13 guards with a 2 inch overlap; there are pictures if you Google it Step 11. Mount the rear section of the S13 guards Step 12. Mount the front section of the S15 guards Step 13. Mount the headlights, reo, bumper support Step 14. Fiddle with stuff and hope you can get it all aligned, re-clamp the support and try to mark/clamp it's final position Step 15. Tack weld the support where possible, to avoid it shifting. Mark your bonnet rear hole position. Step 16. Remove everything Step 17. Fill all spot-weld holes on the S15 radiator support, clean/grind/paint the welds. You will likely find that the radiator support posts will weld higher than the bolt holes for the S13 ones. Either spot weld them at the bolt hole and call it a day, cut and hole and weld a nut in place, or rivet in a nutcert and bolt it in place. Welding is the fastest, however a nut is stronger and potentially less of a headache in the future. Weld/install a rear nut for the bonnet. Step 18. Install all parts and panels again Step 19. Trim and adjust the guards to get the alignment you need Step 20. Tack weld the guards in a few spots, applying pressure to ensure there are no gaps between the panels Step 21. Remove the guards and fully-tack them, alternating between the top and the bottom, having breaks to avoid the panel over heating and distorting/blowing through Step 22. Grind/seal/bog/sand the guards Step 23. Paint whenever Step 24. Wire up the headlights using common sense Step 25. Sell your complete S13/180sx front end Step 26. Winning Having done this myself twice now, I can say that despite how long the process is, one person can get all the mounting/welding done in a single weekend. The wiring is simple but can take a little time, mostly because it can be fiddly and requires a lot of testing with a multimeter. I'm not a painter so I can't even speculate on the painting and prep time, but if you start with clean, straight panels (unlike me), then the workload will be much lower. I will also add that if you opt for a colour that matches your car or is close enough, such as black, then spend some extra on a black bonnet and bumper to reduce the painting to just the guards. A "close enough" paint match can potentially be blended together using coloured wax and a proper wax/buff. If you respray the whole car the S15 panel colour, like gunmetal, then your respray should be a little cheaper for the same reason; chassis, doors, door jambs and guards only, as the bonnet and bar are good.
  2. NO SWAPS, SALE ONLY selling my 180sx due to purchasing a new car and no longer have time for it. car is in great condition. interior is immac, exterior is straight with the usual stone chips here and there. mechanically, the car is perfect. car was rarely driven since being purchased by me, have a work car i use daily. 180 was only ever driven on weekends and rarely during weeknights. 265***kms on the chasis, 130***kms on the motor (2nd hand sr20det redtop) Rego til april 2015 recently just had the starter motor replaced and just had a major brake service. brand new RDA dimpled and grooved rotors installed at the front and rear, bendix gct pads installed at the front and project mu pads at the back. last major service was done roughly 200kms ago. car is engineered and comes with engineering certificate as well as reciepts for ALL mods listed below since being in my possesion, car has always been worked on and serviced at MRC castle hill as well as Westside mechanics, a highly rated tuner/mechanic shop details are as follows: ENGINE: SR20DET redtop making a safe 200kw at 18psi Garret GT2860rs turbo Apexi Power fc ECU with hand controller in centre console NISMO 555cc Injectors Splitfire Coilpacks Sard fuel pressure regulator Walbro GSS342 fuel pump Tuneagent stainless steel manifold Z32 Airflow meter K&N pod filter with enclosure Turbosmart BOV Hybrid Front mount intercooler NISMO engine mounts New battery installed january 2014 DRIVETRAIN: S14a Gearbox ORC Twin plate clutch KAAZ 1.5way diff NISMO slave cylinder Short shifter HICAS deleted (all lines removed) SUSPENSION: HSD HR coilovers Tein strengthened tie rods and ends JJR castor rod Whiteline front sway bar (adjustable 27mm) Ultra Racing fender braces BRAKES/WHEELS: BRAND NEW RDA dimpled and grooved rotors (front and rear) BRAND NEW Bendix GCT front pads BRAND NEW Project Mu rear pads NISMO braided lines APEC Apache rims - 18x8 +42 INTERIOR: R1 Sport deep dish steering wheel Defi boost gauge (bar) Apexi AVC-R black edition boost controller - 7psi low, 18psi high Apexi FC Hand controller Bride Brix driver seat. genuine seat on genuine rails BRAND NEW pioneer head unit with USB connection and bluetooth capability (mic installed) CVR 12inch sub with custom made boot box Alpine amp 2x 6x9's Focal Tweaters EXTERIOR: OEM S13 front end D-MAX clear corner indicators D-MAX Smoked tail lights Origin CF 3 piece boot lip SECURITY: Viper 5204 2 way paging alarm system with built in turbo timer chasing $8,700 but happy to negotiate a price to better suit you any enquiries, feel free to contact me on 0400104669 anytime. inspections available anytime after 5:30pm weekdays and anytime during the weekend. located at bossley park 2176 cheers, Ric
  3. hey! new from vic, sil80

    hey guys thought i better introduce myself! my names luke im 24 from wodonga and i just got myself a sileighty yesterday! so im sure i will spend alot of time on this forum from now on lol i am currently going over the car still and getting ready for roadworthy and rego switch so still finding out what bits and pieces it has. currently have a couple little problems happening but all should be a pretty simple fix (touch wood) i will update mods and fast bits down the track once i know myself lol but so far from what i know mods are as follows.. -tomie poncams 256deg 11.5mm lift -tomie titanium valve springs & retainers -slide industries 2871 -turbosmart 38mm external wastegate & screamer lol -z32 afm -fmic -turbosmart BOV -sard fuel pressure reg. -1000cc injectors -custom top feed fuel rail -full 3inch exhaust (straight through lol) -walbro 255 -turbosmart e-boost 2 -nistune -KTS coilovers with adjustable camber -full s15 5 stud conversion & s15 brakes -locked diff lol -widebody on rear thats it for now im still yet to get under the car and check out what else is going on i did see that it has different swaybars unsure of brand etc. will update as more pops up
  4. WTB

    Wanting to buy s13 aero vents - genuine please Also would like the lip as well (Not ca saggy lip) Pm or comment if you got this
  5. Loki's zil80

    Current: 180sx Ichigo multiple srs, now 1jz. Strawberry face sil80 2011- 2013 Kouki s14a face sil80 2013- 2014 180sx 2015-2017 Zil80 2017- Ongoing build thread
  6. Angry Birds Sil80 Drift Car

    Hey peeps, I thought I'd do a bit of a build thread on my drift car... Thanks for reading Here is how the car sits today So the car all started like this, was pretty rough and needed a bit of work, but I got it cheap so I really wasn't fussed... Me and my cousin basically got to work straight away on the car cleaning it out and tidying up loose ends, the car didn't run when we got it home, we tried for hours to get it started and we found that the stock fuel pump wasn't pumping puel properly, so that went in the bin and I went straight for a Walbro... I know its a CA, but to be honest it really doesn't matter whats in it, as long as it makes enough power to spin the back wheels, and it does so getting a SR dropped in it is just a waste of time... Plus, I dont mind the CA18... After we got the thing running it was blowing a lot of smoke, we checked everything, turns out the turbo had spat the rear seal so I went and got myself a rebuilt kit from ATS and gave it a quick rebuild... Getting the turbo apart was pretty tedious, was my first time taking apart a turbo and I'll be honest I was surprised at the simplicity of them! Once it got it apart I cleaned it up (which took ages!) and was left with this... Putting it together was pretty damn easy, only took me an hour and I was done After that I bolted it all back up and started it and she ran sweet, but was still blowing a little bit of smoke, so I started to re check anything else to see if I missed something, but I just couldn't work out what it was, so the car was sent off to the boys at Jaustech where they fitted a new dump pipe, exhaust, cleaned up the smoking problem (turns out there was oil in the stock cooler and thats what was creating the smoke) and gave it a nice tune... The car on stock boost made 110rwkw which I was pretty happy with considering it was dead stock apart from an exhaust... After getting the car back I gave it a bit of a pressure pack job, turned out alright! But after about 2 months of searching for a front bar, I just couldn't find anything so I wacked a Silvia front on it cos I found all the panels dirrrrt cheap! Not long after that was completed I managed to find some nice meshies real cheap so they were fitted up for a few months... Also I found some cheap coilovers that are still in the car now, they serve their purpose, but I'd really love to get some new ones, maybe in the near future I might... After all that was fitted up it was time to hit the track for the first time ever! I got 1 lap in and blew a coolant hose I couldn't replace, so the car went back on the trailer lol, that week, I ordered a silicone hose kit for it and fitted it up also bypassing the heater system... Next drift practice I went out with not even one problem, was stoked with the way the car ran and even though it was underpowered it was still so much fun! A couple of months passed with no changes, so far I've driven the car 5 times in total and its my first time ever doing drifting and I love it... Here is a couple of vids from my last time out at drift practice at Mallala... http://youtu.be/_pNX-uV3WNY http://youtu.be/jTC0nm8dFZU At that drift practice a few mates came out and they were finding it hard to work out who I was cos there was a few matte black 180's out there so thus brought on the paint change, first the car went like this... I was pretty happy with it, its a pretty stand out color, my mates would definitely be able to work out who I was out there now! But I really wanted to do a theme for the car, I was going to go with amine, but I heard a few boys were coming out with it this year so I scrapped that, and a friend of mine said to me "hey how about angry birds" and that was it, my mind was set, so I went looking for stickers to get myself started, found some stuff on ebay and got them straight away and got started on the car, the end product is as you see it now... I also got some new wheels for it 16x10 +25 all round to finish off the look I am going for! Future things are, getting a huge angry birds sticker for the bonnet and also a few other little ones for other spots on the car and also build a new engine.... Just last week I got a half cage and on the weekend just passed I entended the adjustment on the stock handbrake so that I could get more use out of it as it stretches more... The car hasn't been out to the last few meets as I have been busy getting the car ready for Mallanats... Hope to see you all come out to support drifting at Mallanats
  7. Intro Hi friends, Bought my car recently and really like the idea of keeping a journal-type thing so feel free to ignore this thread as it's more of a personal scrapbook thread of my car and the learning curve which I'm undertaking, rather than a build thread. When I bought htis car, I had zero clue about engine and mechanics, literally the only thing I knew about was how to check the oil. But anyways; I've been driving a 2009 Hyundai Getz for a few years, it's the bottom of the line 1.4L manual but hell, I love the hills anyway and learnt to drive through the hills in it, generally to the surprise of other car owners who love the hills when I can pretty well keep up with a lot of the people I come across. Started driving in 2009 with my mates in their corollas and volvos and whatever the hell we had to drive. My best driving mate drives an AE82 and we used to just go up through the hills a few times a week - this helped me realise you really don't need power to go quick in the hills. So, present day, I was a few phone calls away from purchasing an '02 Renault Clio Sport.. was pretty much in the 'hot hatch' mindset of things, didn't even care that it looks like a humpback whale from the back. Then I started hanging out with an old mate again working on his S13 (which has been sitting in his garage for a bit over 2 years collecting dust) and, well, it pretty much reignited hopes and dreams blah blah that I had when I was like 15 so a few days later we saw a 180sx for the right price on these forum classifieds and I thought "screw it" so for $3,800 off a dealer(?) I ended up with a running, automatic 1991 SR20DET 180sx that was in some serious need of some TLC. The Car 158,xxx KM's SR20DET (running) Automatic Black, half the clear coat missing.. The day I looked at it it (10/12) The day I collected it (12/12) The guy seemed kind enough to throw in a set of stock rear struts as there was some reported knocking by one of the mechanics, later on we saw that the stock ones were pretty screwed and the bushes were basically gone but not to worry... Day 1 Solved problems: - engine fluids probably hadn't been changed in about 30,000 km - a wish list of stickers on the bonnet (apexi, greddy, hks etc etc...) Took her up to my mate's shed where the first thing he proceeded to do was get a razor blade and scratch off the big Need for Speed-style decal on the rear window that said "UNDRGRND KING". Pity, I really liked being an undrgrnd king. We did a few little things like changing the fluids (engine oil, coolant, fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs). It was unreal how much of a power/response increase doing this made. It was pretty clear by this point that whoever had owned the car last did not give a fuck about this car. He/she had tried to re-trim the interior and it was a delicious stained yellow vinyl colour with plenty of dirt on it. My mate ended up having a spare 180sx door lying outside in the sun so I scavenged the trim from it. It'd been weathered for probably 18 months but it was much of an improvement. Did general cleaning and other cosmetic stuff, ended up replacing the stock airbox for a mounted pod filter as well. Day 2 Solved problems: - no boost getting to the engine Car didn't start this morning.. my mate ended up spraying some carby cleaner inside the throttle body and she started to run.. then we switched off the ignition and the engine kept running, dieseling. How odd, right? Anyway, the turbo was boosting but not getting a feed through to the engine.. ended up quickly dropping past Adelaide Jap Imports and seeing if they would take a quick look at it (absolute champs) and they saw straight away that the wastegate circlip had come off. Went to the shed, fixed this, no more wasted boost! Day 3 Solved problems: - timing waaay out - rear struts knocking - chopped springs at the front, waaay too low - bare brake pads - Worn & missing sway bar bushes Swapped over the stupid struts on all fours that were on the car and replaced brake pads on the front (that had pretty much worn past their warning pins.....). Had issues that we'd noticed from Day 2 where the engine idle was around 1700 RPM and dropping up and down.. as in idling at 1700 then dropping to 1200 then back up to 1700. Went to pick up some new bushes for the front sway bars from Japanese Import Spares and got the owner to take a quick look as to why it was idling wrong.. he saw straight away that the bolt was in the wrong position so we manually adjusted it later that day and lo & behold, perfect 800~ RPM idling. Decided that we were going to try and smash out the auto-> manual conversion and overnight, so we christened the car with chinese beforehand. The donor for gearbox, clutch, pedals & everything else needed. Got to about 1:30am and we'd only taken out the pedals from a donor S14 write-off, drilled housings for the clutch and installed the S14 brake pedal in the 180sx so we decided to just call it a night since we were so overtired already and the weather was hot as. Day 4 Solved problems: - Car wouldn't start again, ended up managing to make it start by feathering the accelerator. By this point it seems that the car won't start when cold, but when warm it's fine - leads me to thinking it's something to do with either the coolant temp sensor or the ECU taking incorrect readings. We pulled up at the shed in preparation for a day's work on the car, sat down, lit a smoke and about 30 seconds later the coolant pipes burst, dumping all my beautiful new coolant onto the floor and sending a shitload of steam out of the engine bay for a solid few minutes. At least my bay is now steam cleaned right? Car is currently sitting in the shed, waiting on getting it towed to another mate's shed where we will finish the manual conversion, take a look at the coolant temp sensor and try and figure out why the hell it overheated to the point of unleashing my coolant pipes. Good news is it looks as though the pipes are the transmission lines so can just carry straight on with the manual conversion and not worry about reattaching the hoses. Current problems: - Not starting when cold - Coolant pipes just chilling somewhere down near the gearbox - Something wrong with either the coolant temp sensor, ECU readings, fan clutch or thermostat. Maybe all of them! Plans - Either get a decent paintjob or wrap the car with vinyl wrap... - R33 seats or something similar - Complete onevia/sileighty swap with my mate's s13 Much, much more to come.
  8. hello all, I bagged me a 180sx about a week ago, it's in pretty decent nick so I'm pretty happy with it so far, It's a 1996 180sx, pretty basic as you can tell from the pics, it does have both front and rear strut bars, and tein coilovers, 3 inch exhaust, aside from that and an upgraded fuel system, it's stock as f*ck, the speakers are old as a mofo, and I'm stuck listening to SR drone, with only a hint of busta rhymes(the only cd I could be f*cked chucking in on the day, don't want to chuck in skrillex because I'll blow the speakers even further) playing in the background. Future plans are: some clean rims with a decentish offset, I want to restore the interior/get rid of some of the 1990's Jap blandness that plagues most pre 2005 imports and a possible sil80 conversion. For the time being I'm only looking to add 20-30 KW(could increase exponentially, as my life whittles away, and my car consumes all), a t28 bb, I'm after more response, rather than outright power. Possible forging of internals in the unforseeable future if I manage to blow the SR like I did my first car (Unlikely though, even my fiancee says I drive like a bitch), as we're in the process of building a house,I'm in uni, and I work full time as well(I feel like occupying a local park and complaining about it haha), I warn you, THIS BUILD MAY BE AS SLOW AS KEVIN MALONE OFF THE OFFICE... Here are some pics,
  9. WOOPS i'v left this thread to die sorry folks, follow me on FB to follow the latest news: https://www.facebook.com/Calw36 Thanks for checking out the Option1Garage / Signature Performance Outlaws class Sil80 Racecar buildup / history thread. 2012 QRDC Sports and Sedans Outright Champion Thanks so much to everyone that has helped me throughout the year - massive appreciation for the whole weekends given by my awesome pitcrew Pete, Nick and Dad. Support from Paul and the boys at Option 1 Garage / Full Lock Motorsport has been a massive help this year making problems that would have been a big deal previously seem like a piece of cake to resolve, and linking me up with Mca Suspension, gktech.com.au and Koya Wheels throughout the year has helped improve the car to be ultra fast and ultra reliable, just a dream to drive. Also Marty and Mich from STZ for the brilliant lightweight cage Definitely pumped for more intense, clean, close racing with the Outlaws Sports & Sedans Racing Queensland in 2013 Click here for most recent news + Outlaws Sports and Sedans on Facebook ^pic thanks to Fifotos Motorsport Photography New Lakeside Silvia Lap Record - 54.65 - June 2014 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NkOx29323M http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zguMfAqltFA www.driverdb.com/drivers/callum-whatmore Current best laps: Lakeside: 55.66 on Hankook Z214 275 QLD Raceway Clubman: 59.50 on Hoosier R6 275 QLD Raceway National: 1:18.71 on Hankook Z214 275 Morgan Park K: 1:23.9 on Hankook Z214 275 Norwell: 61.80 on FZ201 255 no aero Thought id finally do a writeup on my moneypit of satisfaction - Nov 2006 Looking like this when i first bought it. First proper car after driving the bongo van (liteace) around for 3 years after getting my license. FEEL THE ADRENALIN Son after added racing logic coilovers... car looked good like this :] Went to some dyno day and it put out 160kw apparently (unsure of how accurate the dyno was) at 12psi - June 2007 QR sprint - First trackday experience, going 67.53 in pretty much standard form on street rubber. - Nov 2007 QR sprint - Improved to 66.07 after adding fmic and exhaust, on street rubber. Quickest lap set with exhaust gasket gone, it farted hot exhaust and melted my loom and i was lucky to be able to drive home. improv heat shield. F'ed around for all of 2008. had a crack at drifting, which i sucked at, and did some boring drag. best of 13.9sec quarter added big brakes up front. smacked a gutter being stoopid which led me to get some new wheels. - Jan/Feb 2009 Finally got back to the track in 09, couldnt match my pb in 2 attempts hmm. I guess it was summer, hot. + QR had rivers across the dippers on one of the days. rage. - June 2009 put some KU36 tyres on the car and then found out about lakeside. what a track! i was hooked. best of 65.43 on my first day there, june 09. LS - improved to 63.89 on my next outing. - July 2009 Decided to spend some money on trying to make some power, Got a cheap t28 (thanks Matt B!), s15 injectors and a nistune. Tuned by EFI performance yatala to make 174kw. improved to 63.00 but was hitting the speed limiter by the kink. EFI kindly removed the limiter when i took it back to them - Sep/Oct 2009 LS - Improved to a 62.42 without the limiter LS - Then 62.22 after removing a bit of weight, eg rear seats. QR sprint - 61.57 - Feb 2010 Car was overheating quite badly after 2 or 3 laps getting up it. added oil cooler, air panel, bigger radiator, problem persisted... Frustrating to have to back off and let it cool in the middle of a session. Noticed Harry's sil80 owning it up, being the only sil to get under the magic minute at lakeside so the opportunity came up with michael from here on NS to swap front ends. tore into it one saturday and did the swap. - March 2010 got a pair of springs from dennis at racing logic - legend which softened the car from 9/7 to 7/5 kg. bolt in half cage installed. LS - new PB of 62.14 - May 2010 KU36's finally shagged after 10 trackdays and 14,000 kays. Excellent value for money. Got some federal RSR's to replace them. LS - improved to 61.11 thanks to the softer rubber. - June 2010 car has always had a major achilles heal of the sloppy viscous diff, causing the inside wheel to spin up and cost a lot of time. Diffs were very expensive, so i was lucky to find a bargain on boostcruising for a 1.5way r180 with a 4.3 ratio (vs 4.11 of the original) Also installed a surge tank which solved the long time drama of having to run with at least half a tank of fuel to prevent starvation. have since added alfoil wrapping to the lines to try and reduce the fuel smell stinking me out. QR sprint - 59.67 - July 2010 Got a bit excited after seeing pics of THIS car. A mate had a rear wing lying around under his house, so i grabbed it off him. Then went to bunnings and bought some plywood and other gear. fabbed up the front splitter + air dam and drilled holes in the rear hatch for the wing. LS - 59.91 finally cracked the minute. feels a bit like cheating with the aero bits. huge difference in high speed grip. - Aug 2010 Front tyres getting chewed due to inadequete camber. installed R33 front LCA's which have helped. Also got the chance to test some real tyres thanks to Alan at Federal / Z car workshop. FZ201 medium compound and mega wide. LS - 58.64 first session - Sept 2010 LS - 58.39 jap nationals one lap shootout - Oct 2010 found front shocks to be rooted, replacements from dennis at racing logic fitted. cheers ! Lakeside - 17/10 - 58.61 zed fest. just consistent 58's built a box for the fuel system to try and make it a bit safer in an accident. QR - 30/10 - 57.68 new PB Nov 2010 - Morgan Park - 1:27.39 - class winner improved production over 3L the office Dec 2010 - Lakeside. Trackattack 2010 2nd overall, Winner forced induction class. New PB of 58.34 bit of GTR chasing action http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtWHgLbNDA4 2009/10 trophies time to go racing in 2011 :] 1994 Nissan 180X RPS13 Engine=SR20DET POWER=206rwkw @ 17PSI TURBO= Garret 2680RS with chipped compressor wheel. got it cheap :] AIRFLOW METER=BOSCH Z32 SUMP= justjap Large Capacity OIL= Penrite 10w40 or similar RADIATOR=big alloy one thanks to STZ INJECTORS=740cc FUEL PUMP=walbro's &--#62; bosch 044 BOOST CONTROLLER=mbc ENGINE MANAGEMENT=nistune INTERCOOLER=big one now cheers jarred EXHAUST SYSTEM=3inch with cat DRIVECHAIN lol chain CLUTCH= Direct Clutch hi torque organic GEARBOX= Standard 5 speed manual DIFFERENTIAL=r180 1.5way 4.3 SUSPENSION/HANDLING/STEERING COILOVERS=Racing Logic - ultra - 7/5kg SWAYBARS=Whiteline 27mm Adjustable Front Swaybar, Whiteline 20mm Adjustable Rear Swaybar SUSPENSION ARMS=r33 front lcas, GKTech Caster, Toe, Camber Brakes CALIPERS=r33 all round PADS=Ferodo ds2500 &--#62; Hawk DTC 60 FLUID=Castrol super dot 4 &--#62; penrite sin BM57 master cyl + braided lines Wheels/Tyre street= a-tech 17x8,9 track= koya 17x9,10 245/275 slicks Interior STEERING WHEEL= omp copy suede SEATING=Bride copy fixed back, 6pt harness GAUGES=ecutalk display, oil temp, knock warning no bov, standard airbox, still has aircon and radio comes out :] weighs 1190kg with half a tank of fuel and no driver INSPIRATIONS: Harry being the first ever silvia in the 59's at lakeside back in '09 - we all thought he was nuts after seeing this vid - the whole 'treat lakeside with respect', '9-tenths maximum' mantra that everyone spouted went out the window, heres Harry hanging it out at bridge + the last corner... very intimidating bits of track.. without raising a sweat. Another lesson learned, the importance of learning car control without aero influence. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxNw2Z6u7sI + build thread 240sxTTC's aero bits Sasha is really the mac daddy pioneer of silvia racing... winning the mixed canadian touring car series back in 2007.. bowdown: Massive 53 page build thread Paul's record-holding S14 - untouched record around Lakeside (until myself and Sam finally pipped it 3 years later)
  10. BENO'S RB26 SIL80

    Hey guys, I thought its about time 2 chuck a build thread up of my rig after seeing sum of the other crazy build threads on here.. Owner- Ben Crawford Age- 25 Occupation- mechanic Car- 1994 Nissan 180SX BIT OF HISTORY: Well for starters, when i bought it, it was a '94 180SX blacktop SR.. Got the car off a mate of mine mid 2008, being close to stock, wasn't running. It had a fmic, zorst and nackered coilys, 4 stud with 16" avs model 6's… Since buying it I had chucked on sum sard 550's, nisstune remap, hks 2510, bout 190kw.. coilys etc… was ultra responsive and loved it! Then started having some boost issues due to a nackered actuator on the 2510 so i thought id just sell up n put a 25 in it... then the 26 popped up I pulled the car off the road in November 2008. My original plan was to do the RB26 conversion as cheap as possible, and get the car back on the road within a couple of months.. then decided that because the car wasn't exactly up 2 scratch I wanted to make everything schmick if there was gona be an RB26 under the bonnet.. so heres sum pics n details of the build... enjoy UPDATED MOD LIST AFTER BLOWING TURBOS INTERIOR: Apexi RSM Stripped interior Removed sound deadening Removed heater box, aircon etc etc... Resprayed interior RCR full weld in custom rollcage Bride fixed back seats 2x sabelt 4-point harnesses Autometer oil pressure warning light Autosport hydraulic handbrake Custom handbrake bracket custom isolator switch bracket dry cell BSC battery in boot in box Benny's C pillar brace Benny's rear floor harness brace Spats rear strut brace Interior completely rewired with only the essentials Fuses/relays/ecu/igniter all mounted on panel under the dash.. Nardi 350mm deep corn with red stitching Greddy electronic boost, oil temp, water temp and oil pressure gauges EXTERIOR: Full respray in daihatsu naked-olive green metallic S13 front (sil80) S13 J's headlights with juran clear covers Juran corner smoked parker/indicator lenses Origin type 2 carbon bonnet Origin stylish front bar Origin stylish rear bar Origin stylish side skirts Origin 30mm twin vent front fenders Origin 30mm rear fenders Origin carbon canards 2up carbon roof lip Koguchi Power 1750mm carbon GT wing Type X taillights Rays TE37's bronze 4x 18x9.5 +12 CST hyper zero bronze 2x 17x9.5 +15, 4x 18x9.5 +15 CST hyper zero chrome 2x 17x9.5 +15 20K HID's Strobe kit for the moisty's ENGINE: R33 GTR RB26DETT (still 2.6L) Engine rebuilding done by Paul from Southcott's 8.8:1 compression HEAD: Ported + polished Brian Crower valve springs Brian Crower titanium retainers Tomei Procams 270 10.25 Tomei solid lifters HKS cam gears Cometic 1.2mm metal head gasket Spool external oil return Custom oil return BLOCK: CP pistons 20thou oversize Manley H-Beam conrods Manley rod bolts ARP head studs ARP main studs ACL race bearings Custom oil feed restrictor N1 oil pump housing Hi Octane oil pump gearset N1 water pump RCR custom sump R33 GTR balancer UNDERBODY/DRIVELINE: ORC 559D twin plate RB25DET gearbox Nismo clutch pivot Solid steering spacer Braided clutch line Custom tailshaft Custom gearbox crossmember Nismo gearbox mount GTR cusco 4.3 2way GTR shafts GTR hubs Cradle Removed and welded with extra bracing New cradle bushes Brembo F40 front calipers + slotted rotors Project MU HC+ evo 8 front pads R33 twin piston rear calipers Project MU HC+ rear pads Endless RF-650 brake fluid PBR braided brake lines New JIC FLT-TAR coilovers F12kg R8kg GKtech rear camber arms Driftshop adjustable rear traction arms ISC adjustable rear toe arms GTR rear swaybar boxed and modded S14 front lca's boxed and braced front castor brace S14 5 stud hubs all round SMM nuckles SMM billet rack spacers Ikeya formula S14 tie rods KTS roll centre tie rod ends Tien castor rods Signature front swaybar All bushes been replaced with superpro and nolathane items BOLT ON'S: Cometic full gasket kit Gates racing timing belt Sard fuel rail Sard fuel pressure reg Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors Bosch 040 feed pump 2x Bosch 044 fuel pumps Custom surge tank setup Teflon braided lines 6 Boost manifold GT3076R .82 tial stainless v-band rear housing Tial MVR 44mm external gate (water cooled) Braided and speedflow everything AM performance full 3-4" turbo back exhaust system + custom muffler with titanium tip AM performance gate pipe out side skirt AM performance 4" lobster bent intake pipe AM performance turbo heat shield Cooler spray Turbosmart boost control solenoid Trust GTR front mount ASE oil cooler JJR oil filter relocater ASE power steering cooler Koyo alloy radiator CA18DET Thermo fans twin, dual stage Tomei engine plate HKS oil cap Adjustable oil pressure switch Gates racing radiator hoses Apexi pod Billion radiator cap Drift bottom rad hose adapter Nismo thermostat Smooth Garage poly engine mounts Ceffy xmember RB20 engine mount brackets Custom tubs Custom unboltable radiator support panel Rad support extended forward 40mm Custom supports behind strut towers Extensive hole filling and stitch welding in engine bay Engine covers/cage painted millennium jade Engine bay sand blasted and resprayed Custom lobster style stainless cooler piping and intake pipes Billion power steering reservoir Custom catch can Custom overflow bottle Autronic SM4 ecu (no O2 sensors or afm's etc) Hidden wiring Various parts polished Splitfire coilpacks now makes 331rwkw on 21psi 891nm on mainline roller dyno Car is still street rego'd The car is used mainly for drift, and time Attack. as of 27/10/2013: ran 12.0 @ 130mph at AIR on 18" semi slicks (no traction through first 2 gears lol) managed a pb of 1:14.80 around Mallala on hankook z221 semi slicks finished 12th in G1 drift comp for 2013 in my first year of competing
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