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Found 5 results

  1. Check out 3D Racing Solutions for a wide variety of 3D Printed Car Parts, example shown below. We accept custom orders too so be sure to check us out. 👍 https://3dracingsolutions.com/ Customer photos; We have not only worked on many cool/iconic cars, but we are trusted and backed by many companies, workshops and even individuals. So you are guaranteed to be provided with the best service. Improvement and growth is what we are always looking to do. If there are any ideas or suggestions that is desired, we will be more than contented to design that for you. Be sure to contact us either on messenger or on the "Contact Us" page on our website and we will be sure to make that happen. Be sure to check out our social media for daily updates; 📷 https://www.facebook.com/3DRacingSolutions/ 📷 https://www.instagram.com/3DRacingSolutions/ 📷 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UComnbqwBjzAWMCjY3Vig2Sg
  2. This is a how-to on changing engine and gearbox mounts on an s15 sr20det manual. It is a very similar process to all other s chassis models. I used Nismo mounts all round. Your experience may differ. I am not liable for your f**k ups, please be sensible, think first, safety first. If i've forgotten anything, let me know and i'll update the thread. First start by getting the car up on 4 jack stands, higher the better. Rear stands under subframe, front stands under the chassis rails with a block of wood between the two to avoid chassis damage. (Old photo, i know the front stands aren't on the chassis rails but you get the idea). Start with the passenger side (LHS / turbo side). The mount is hidden under all this stuff. Remove the intake pipe, cooler pipe, hoses, and turbo intake snout if necessary. Remove the strut brace if you have one. You can now see the mount. Undo the two nuts on the top of the mount. The mount stud through the engien bracket is a 14mm nut. The other is a 12mm nut that secures a heat shield. Now move over to the drivers side (RHS). Start by removing the intake manifold support bracket. 2 x 14mm bolts on top (on the intake runners) and 1 x 14mm bolt on the bottom near the starter motor. Push the bracket to the side (its still attached with wiring). Undo the top two nuts on the mount. 14mm for the mount stud, and 12mm for the stud holding a bracket to the mount. Get under the car and undo the bottom nut on both LHS and RHS mounts. It is a single 14mm bolt on each. With the mounts now unbolted but still sandwhiched between the engine and the chassis, its time to jack up the engine. Do this by using your trolley jack and a block of wood and carefully jack up the engine until it hits the chassis tunnel. Be careful not to lift the whole car doing this. If you have a stock sump pan, you can jack from here with a braod bit of wood but this is a shit way of doing it. You are better off jacking from the bellhousing where it meets the engine. This is especially important for cast alloy sumps! NOTE: this pic is not accurate obviously, it should be closer to the engine. Although there is now wiggle room you won't be able to pull the mounts out yet, there is not enough room to remove them because of the stud length. Undo the engine subframe nuts, 4 x 17mm (2 on each side). Take them off completely, dont worry the subframe won't drop on your face. My car is relatively low, so the suspension was pulling the subframe upwards against the chassis. Using a big screw driver and/or pry bar, lever the subframe down and jam a fat chisel (or similar) in between the chassis and the subframe. Back up top you should now have room to slip out the old engine mount. Turbo side (LHS) will have a heat shield, slip this onto your new mount. Squeeze the mount into position, take note of the correct orientation and the alignment tab on the bottom. The cold side (drivers side / RHS) is tight. You will need to move the fuel filter and lines, and the support bracket to the side (the bracket you removed earlier). Maneuver the mount out, take it out through the top where the fuel filter usually sits. New one goes back in the same way. With the mounts now in (but not bolted on) raise the subframe and tighten the 4 x 17mm nuts you removed earlier. Lower the engine a little bit, slowly. Align the tabs on the bottom of the mounts, and slowly drop the engine fully. Do the engine mount nuts up only a few threads, leave lots of space (don't tighten all the way). Move down to the gearbox mount / cross member. Jack up the rear of the gearbox to take the load off the cross member. Undo the bolts that attach the gearbox to the mount (14mm), undo the exhaust support bracket from the mount (12mm nuts). Undo the mount from the cross member (12mm nuts). Remove the cross member bolts (4 x 17mm bolts). My exhaust ran right over one of the bolts, FML. In that case, you can probably get away with what I did, undo the front pipe-to-cat flange, push the now loose-ish front pipe out of the way and get a socket on the last crossmember bolt. My awesome DEI carbon fibre look 'titanium' heat wrap got shredded doing this, its a tight fit with the socket Drop the cross member, swap mount, reinstall opposite to the above. When the gearbox / mount / crossmember is all back together tight, reattached your exhaust with sealant or a new gasket (if this was removed). Un-jack the gearbox, this side should all be done. It is now time to tighten the engine mounts fully. 14mm nut on bottom, and 14mm + 12mm nuts on top for both. Move back up top and reinstall all the intake pipes removed earlier, you may want to use sealant on the turbo intake snout to avoid leaks. You're pretty much done. Go around to every area you worked on and check every nut, you dont want any of this stuff coming loose. You have probably left tools in your engine bay too. Take the car off the stands and take it for a drive. With Nismo mounts I did not have an issue with strut brace clearance. The engine did sit higher but only because the old mount was collapsed and sagging. All engine mounts will settle, give it a month or so. I'm hoping NVH will subside in that time, to some extent, because it's worse than I thought it would be. Only noticeable on idle though. Gear changes are much nicer, the car feels a lot more solid, take off from stopped / stationary is much nicer with the Ogura single plate. To conclude, this is a relatively easy job. I don't understand why people complain about it. Very satisfying end results.
  3. Hi, I'm a WRX owner and see lots of the nissan guys at the track. I was talking about getting Dorian mounting brackets with one of silvia guys cus the tape or green back looks sheet in the pictures. Anyway, I found them on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271536089906?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649
  4. These cam gears are produced by ISC and are of a very high quality! These cam gears are to suit RB20/RB25/RB26/CA18/SR20/1J/2J. The cam gears also have 1 degree increments for finer tuning ability. $199 pair Our engine and gearbox mounts are made from polyurethane and aluminium to ensure the highest quality for your vehicle! These mounts are alot stronger then your worn out factory items and the material they are manufactured from will make them stiff/strong whilst absorbing alot of the vibration caused by your engine and gearbox. The bolts that are included in the kit are also a high tensile item. Gearbox Mount = $125 Engine Mounts = $125 Gearbox/Engine Mounts together = $225
  5. Package 1 = $425 (normally $517) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear traction Adjustable rear toe Package 2 = $499 (normally $676) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear traction Adjustable rear toe Adjustable stabiliser bar Package 3 = $349 (normally $437) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear traction Adjustable rear hicas Package 4 = $699 (normally $875) Adjustable rear camber Adjustable rear toe Adjustable rear traction Adjustable stabiliser bar Adjustable front castor If purchased seperatly: Adjustable rear camber = $179 Adjustable rear toe = $179 Adjustable rear traction = $159 Adjustable rear stabiliser = $159 Hicas lock bar = $99 Adjustable front castor = $199 Alloy subframe spacers = $125 R32 front adjustable camber = $349 R33/R34 front adjustable camber = $399 Silvia front adjustable LCA = $399 Silvia rear adjustable LCA = $449 350z adjustable rear toe = $199 350z adjustable rear camber = $199 silvia strengthened tie rod kit = $199 PU silvia engine mounts = $125 PU silvia gearbox mounts = $125 PU silvia engine and g/box mounts = $225 Whiteline adjustable swaybars = $249 each Hydraulic handbrakes = $249