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Found 152 results

  1. Heya I bought this 180sx 3 weeks ago. I saw the car running and I drove it before I took delivery, everything was good, car held boost and was pretty responsive and smooth. As a part of the sale the previous owner took out his turbo and manifold. So last week I put in a new manifold, turbo and braided lines. I finished piping up the intake and intercooler yesterday. The car is running really rough. The car has a slightly weak idle and occassionally stalls when in drive (its auto for now). When I apply throttle nothing really happens, it doesnt gain revs but seems to hesitate badly. When I pump the throttle it gains revs and holds the revs only if I keep pumping the throttle. from what I can gather there is no boost, I dont have a boost guage yet but will later this week. The turbo I bought (t28) had an internal wastegate set to 14psi so I adjusted the actuater before I put the turbo in and planned to raise pressure with a boost controller. I added about 40mm to the actuater arm, was this too much? or could there be other reasons it wont boost? I have the boost controller now, it has 3 nipples with the adjuster knob and im not too sure how to install it. Another thing is that the lights, wipers, windows, dash, pretty much anything electrical doesnt work unless the car is running. For this reason the fuel pump is hard wired. So far all the work I have done is new turbo, manifold, turbo lines. I checked for error codes but all it threw was 55 (no problems). The MAF is connected and working (was taken from running s13), o2 sensor is wired, all vac lines seem ok, all intake hoses are secure and clamped. I'm kinda at a loss here. this is my 1st turbo car as I've normally had na v6's. I just dont see what could have changed in those 3 weeks. I've searched this and other forums for a while but nothing has really helped so far. Any help would be appreciated. (below is a pic of my engine bay, I highlighted in green my vac line that goes to the actuater, is this right? It comes from behind the intake plenum. Does everything else look right?)
  2. Hi Guys I want to get more power from my s15 (around 230 - 250kw). I'm currently making 200kw@rears on 17psi. I need your help/recommendations on what I should do to get more power easily. Here is a list of the mods I currently have: - front mount with chrome piping - exhaust 3 inch from turbo - Haltech e11 computer - Nismo 660cc injectors - Nismo fuel pump - stock t28 turbo - 2 stage boost controller - twin plate Exedy heavy duty clutch - air filter My budget is around $3-4k. Any help is appreciated!
  3. Autech motor gearbox

    Quick noob question most likely been asked but yeh, Will a 180sx or s13 Turbo gearbox just bolt onto lets say an autech motor? or will i need a box to? or bellhousing etc? Edit, this autech motor would be installed in a 180 or s13
  4. I have got the turbo, manifold, exhaust etc off except for one collant line leading behind the block. I am installing braided turbo lines and i have been reading and it seems i will have to cut the hard coolant line and attach the braided line to that as i cannot get behind the block to attach it to where it should go. i guess i will have some extra length in that line too by the end but if anyone has a better suggest that would be great. I need one engine mount bolt but i cannot find them anywhere and i only need one. any suggestions? ill be putting the turbo and everything else back on this weekend, will i run into any obstacles other than fiddling the lines into place and putting studs back in? should i use threadlock or plumbers tape on any of the bolts? any suggestions on what kind of gasket sealant i should use for the manifold? i have some copper stuff rated to 316degrees and mentions its use for turbos but it also says not suitable for exhaust systems so im not too sure any suggestions would be appreciated
  5. Turbo busted? Repair bill higher than a new replacement? Chicks starting to dry up when they leave the car and enter your house? Get with it son. Boom. Difficulty = 1 Where 10 is jumping off a building, and 0 is hitting the ground. Time Required = 40 minutes Stripping the turbo takes all of 5 minutes, but cutting the base and degreasing the compressor housing will take longer. Tools Required 8/10/12/13/14mm spanner Vice Grips or a bench vice Sheet of MDF Electric jigsaw Black paint Felt or suede fabric Razor knife Spray adhesive Usage Put the heavy thing on top of light things so they don't do something they shoudn't. This includes, but is not limited to: Paper (believed to work) Cockroaches (absolutely works) Drug money (no doubt it will work) Intruders (like a boss) Process Step 1. Remove the 6 bolts (or whatever) on the back of the compressor housing. Step 2. Remove the compressor housing. Step 3. Remove any bugs that aren't required. Step 4. Remove the 4 bolts on the turbine housing and knock it apart with a mallet. Remove the compressor wheel using an 8mm spanner (twist right = loose). Step 5. Confirm that the turbo is in fact f**ked. Yep, it's f**ked. Step 6. Degrease the alloy and sand the gasket faces smooth, along with any lettering. If not making a base, file the outlet flange smooth. Step 7. Cut some alloy bar to bolt to the compressor wheel. If you don't plan to make a base, then drill holes to bolt it to the compressor housing. Step 8. Trace the shape of the base onto MDF, then cut to size. Drill some holes in the lip of the compressor housing and screw in place using counter-sunk screws. Glue some felt or suede onto the back for a professional and scratch-free finish. Step 9. Bask in the hektikness of your newfound desk ornament. Playing COD online will no longer be a turnoff for your significant other.
  6. Hi, gotta take the manifold and t25 turbo off so may as well upgrade i got everything for cheap but need some advice I have now got a t28bb, dump pipe and front pipe. Now I am planning on ordering: a new exhaust manifold gasket turbo to manifold gasket braided turbo lines The turbo came as is in the pics and I am not sure if I might need anything else. I read somewhere something about an oil restrictor when going from a t25 to a t28. If you have any tips on the install dont hesitate but I am mainly looking for help on what I might be missing and I dont wanna start and find out I have to order something else and wait on it. Cheers
  7. I own a 1994 180 and have a weird sound when comin under boost and im 90% sure its from where the turbo and exhaust meet, you can feel it when you put your hand there and when i start it cold and block the exhaust you can feel it more.. Instead of just fixing the problem my brother is giving me a t28bb of his s15 which has around 90ks but it came off a bit before that and I have also bought a gktech dump and front pipe to do at the same time. My questions are: - Are there any signs I should look for, for damage to the t28 turbo? - What hidden obstacles will I find along the way? - How hard are the bolts to get to? - I have a bit of experience with cars but I'm no mechanic am I better off paying someone to do it? Any information would be great Cheers
  8. Rb25DET Neo Cefiro

    Hey mates Im currently in the middle of doing a A31 Cefiro Rb25det Neo project. Thought id share a few pics here and there and offer any help to those doing the same or similar conversion. just to let you know progress has gone a little slow as money and time have become tight recently, but hopefully il be looking at getting her legal, certed and tidied up by may. Btw this is my first forum post as i only ever use forums for infomation not showing off lol Alright enough rambling. Happy posting
  9. i took a video and posted it on youtube of how my s13 starts up. anyone got any ideas why it starts like this ??? cheers.
  10. first i had a look but not to many people are using a r33 crossmember im about to order my rad and was looking at getting a asi 52mm with twin thermos but have been told because im using 33 crossmember i wont have enough clearance. so what are my options
  11. hey all i just completed an rb20 conversion into an s13 because i got the engine and gearbox and everything else nice and cheap, it runs and drives and all but but but.... still having problems with starting the car, takes a few shots, then you have to prod the throttle but once its going its fine. and it smokes kind of grey white not really sure why.... and when i have the idle control valve connected it idles at 3000rpm but when i unplug it the idle goes back down to what sounds to be a normal pace around 1000ish rpm. any help would be mad. ive got all the pcv valves set up like they are meant to be, recently changed cpark plugs, has new oil penrite 10w50 semi synthetic.
  12. Ok here are some pics of the turbo that is on my car i can't find anything about it and was wondering if anyone knew what it was and could tell me some details on it It is oil fed only so i know its a brush bearing I only want to know what turbo size it is or what turbo it is like It is very laggy and it doesnt come on boost till about 4grand
  13. Hey guys i wondring if anyone can tell me what is the best 180sx to go for like the s13 or the type x or just a plan 180sx as i have an rb26 that i would like to pute into one so can anyone help me with want i need to do to be able to get mod plats. and wants the top of the range 180sx like the best one to get. cheers Jason..
  14. Hey guys i wondring if anyone can tell me what is the best 180sx to go for like the s13 or the type x or just a plan 180sx and also is it possible to get mod plats to but a rb26 engine into one over in OLD, if so is it a huge dramer? cheers Jason..
  15. I'm getting 430km from a full tank with my s15spec s turbo, I spend around $75 "FULL TANK" using BP ultimate 98octane, normally driving around suburban areas, whereas others i know with r33, spec r etc. get 500km+
  16. Hello, So i've been trying to replace my blown T28 on S14. I've gotten to the point where all i need to do is remove the stock manifold and the turbo. I've run into a small issue however, there is an EGR pipe connected to the back of the manifold, in the most homo position. It's corroded and old, and no matter what i try i can't get it to budge with a spanner, i can't get any other tools in there. I've read that people have simply cut this pipe and blocked it off, but the only hacksaw that's small enough to fit into that space isn't strong enough to cut the metal. Enclosed is a picture of the bolt and pipe that i'm talking about. If anyone has any useful advice or suggestions that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  17. the rear housing flange on a ca standard turbo is the same flange as any s13/14 i think s15 also but if you were to look for a s13 sr20 one with a fat style o2 sensor it will work only thing is the 3 bolt flange on the dump pipe is spun about 30' so it wont bolt onto a standard ca down pipe but shouldnt be an issue from the fact your making the rest of the exhaust and http://www.midnightmods.com.au/zen-cart/index.php dump pipes seem pretty good. 2 tips from my experience of making my own exhaust also have the rear wheels on ramps so the suspension is positioned at the equivalent ride height so you can tuck the exhaust up high as possible or a 4 poster hoist and 3 inch would be alot easier to find for purchasing...
  18. My ca18det 180sx loses all power whe n hits about 5500 rpm the accelorator does nothing for about 8 seconds then theres a funny noise and power comes back its automatic
  19. Alright guys, So i was just cruising around reading specs on turbo's, and im wondering whether there was some sort of formula to work out how much air a certain turbo will move at a certain boost.. it's kind of like the maths part of letters and numbers, but im not smart enough to work it out.. FOR EXAMPLE: Kinugawa TD06-20G flows 685cfm at 14.7 psi (1 Bar) Compressor Wheel 52.5 mm / 68 mm (20G) Turbine Wheel 58.8 mm / 67mm T2 Flange so yeah, using that information, are you able to work out how much air it will flow at say 20 psi, or at 10 psi or whatever?? i know you could just do it basically but im not sure whether air flow works exponentially (not exponentially but you know what i mean) or whether its just normal.. Wow, weird thread, i hope that someone understands what im getting at.. thanks guys..
  20. Hey guys, Im sorry to the veterans here if this has been posted already, so forgive me this is my first post. Im currently on the search for my FIRST Sil, always wanted an s13 and i think nows the time to get one, but im on my Ps and cant drive a turbo (been thinking about just driving turbo and doing a stealth engine bay but dont want to be raped by the cops, and insurance if i crash it). I have my eyes on a redtop S13. Link is here > http://www.carsales....|CarAll Now.. how hard would it be to just take the turbo off...would it be slower due to different compression,if so would it be ALOT slower or just a minor difference.. because this guy said he can do it himself, he is a mechanic and has the parts to take it off its will just be $500 more... Opinions, advice, anything welcome, i just need help cause ive fallen inlove with it! Thanks guys.
  21. mind you boost controller is old, ---If ECU was tuned before will manual boost controller effect it? if it was turned to higher boost, or would the ecu try to bring it back down ? as i was running constant 15psi with tune to redlinein my s13 with t28 i belive, after I tryed getting 18psi now i cant hold boost in high rpms on full throttle, 2/3 throttle and it will boost fine without hesitation, but only in 2nd at 5000rpms if full throttle will seem like boost goes down, I got a new gauge today which helped out a bit more, but its not totally accurate, i have no leaks checked over n over, put it on holds steady at 20psi but cant redline only up to about 5500 or 6500rpms with 1/3 and 2/3 way down on throttle it will reach speeds quicker then any other setting i tryed, but I dont want to run it at 20 and kill the engine, so i put it back down to 15 but now I cant seem to red line in 2nd 3rd like before, goes to a good 6300 but in other gears its fine, not bothering me allot but dont no if it could lead to something bigger, thanks yusuf.
  22. Hey all. just picked myself up an s13 yesterday been waiting a while for the right one to pop up in my price range and hey presto it happened. The owner was selling it just to get rid of it, and said that it had the head re built a few months ago cost 4g to do. and a 900 dolla exhaust. but was smoking so he changed the turbo to an s14 one or something, and it kept smoking so he said must be somthing else. comp tested it today came up with 170psi 150 60 and 100 across the four haha. so shes getting pulled out in the next few days. just gonna do rings n bearings and put it back in. pretty excited ! came with all spare bits and pieces to so been sorting through them all. spare trim and what not. and a body kit. cleaned the car to, underneath was covered in dirt and shit. engine bay way filthy. slapped in the tein coilovers that came with it after i cleaned them up, took such a hammering to get them to budge to lower them because they looked like they had been sitting in mud for a while and were a bit seized. cleaned inside came up awesome has s15 seats and some different speakers and jvc head unit. carpet is still a bit dirty though and need to clean seats a bit better. only has one tiny crack on the dash to ! after shes all running ill be painting it up probably silver !?? cant wait anyone wana guess what i paid ???? haha just after picking her up. borrowed my uncles trailer and towed it home with the old ef not a problem. pulling all the stuff out of it sorting through this was before i cleaned it up inside still not bad put grill in and sat front bar on
  23. Sup yall, in a nut shell im sick of my POS ^%#* ($^&@ stainless manifold and wish to repalce it with somthing chunky , and get some more steam pipe in my life. my only issue is im low mount and external gate whitch is not a really off the shelf kinda set up. I only run a HKS GTRS so im not keen to go high mount, so far ive got powertune who can make me one for $950.00 but for 2000 i can buy a high mount kando set up with new turbo and sell off my old sh*t So basically im asking for any reccomendations for a low mount ex gate mani or if you can build me one for a decent price? rock/
  24. hey guys, just bought my first turbo timer off the net and it's saying Splice Connector is not included. Part no # 41001-AK009. its for my JDM S15 spec R, do i need to buy something else and if so where do i get it from? all help welcome thanks!
  25. hey guys, i think the time has come for me to make a thread on my drift car.. Some people may already have seen this car or heard of it, some love the idea and some just completely hate it... I get asked why i did it every time some1 new sees the car... my answer is why not? I got the idea from my brother Tom (honda fanatic) and my tunner (Craig: PSR tunning)... My brother had always driven hondas and i must admit now i used to give him heaps, NA gay shit rah rah rah they usual shit honda fans cop.. Till he bought his DC2 type R. it handled amazing and for a little 1.8L NA it went quite good. I thought that a stock CA18 turbo would get the doors blown off by this honda.. So i started to get interested in the Honda game.. My brother had done minor NA mods and made a happy 135kw @ the tires... Un till he hit the power bug n decided to turbo charge it... At first i couldnt cum to terms with a high compression engine lasting being turbo charged and what computer to use to run vtec etc etc etc... it was all a big puzzle.. But my brother being the person he is.. Research and chatting to the scarse honda tunners and builders here in VIC, he came to his own conclusion that it didnt need a rebuilt engine, or a decomp plate or any thing to do with opening the engine up... I was down for it to be a hand grenade... 6months later it was boosted, made 240kw at the wheels on 7.5psi, on BP Ultimate. With a bone stock engine... Drove it for 1.5years till some scum bag decided to take unauthorized possession of my brothers beast and not returning it. It was stolen... Never the less I drove it a few times as you do your brothers car, and was gob smacked with the way the power came on, the absolutely no lag, the power band range(3500-8500) and the all day everyday thrashing that it copped... That was the decider for me, I had to have VTEC and boost (at the same time) in a rear wheel drive format and to be my new drift machine. After having SR20's in the past, the honda engine is in a whole new class... I went out and found the cheapest cleanest s13 silvia I could find. It was ca na automatic. Such a steal with 11months rego.. Car cost me under 2500bux.. We (me and my brother) had chatted about the SR20VE head on a basic built bottom end. But I wanted high compression, I wanted a shit load of timing, I wanted as much RPM as possible, I wanted no lag but I wanted a massive turbo and external gate and I wanted it all on pump fuel... I wanted something that is some what not possible in many engines.. We sat down with my tuner (Craig) and we discussed the potential of the SR20VE, and we came to the conclusion it wasn't for me. High comp wasn't an option, lots of timing wasn't on the cards, and no lag was impossible... and then..... S2000 was mentioned by a little bird sitting on the window sill.. We put it all together and that was the go, s2000 engine gearbox ecu and loom, and boost it... Awesome, seamed like work, but cant be too hard, till I priced some second hand s2000 engines, gboxes with ecu n looms... there was no way I was paying that much for something that may or may not work.. Couldn't justify the loss... Back to the drawing board we went. In the mean time I sat and dwelled on what I was going to do for an engine, RB, rotary 1zj, they all got thrown around, but nothing was what I really wanted. We nearly gave up till Craig said lets try a K20 (DC5 integra) or K24 (Euro Accord). But these engines are front wheel drive engines??? We went to the drawing board and chased up people to make adaptor plates and engine mounts n gearbox mounts. Also the wiring was gonna be an issue… Once I found some close friends to do them bits for me I went on a rage to find a K24 or a K20 and an s2000 gearbox… It didn't take long I hade everything I needed sitting in my garage. The build was extremely slow after that. I had to wait for my mates dad to have room at his house for me to take him the engine n gearbox to make the adaptor plate and custom drill the flywheel to suit the s2000 clutch and the spigot and etc etc… Once that was done, after he had called me telling me it was impossible, and it wouldn't marry up at all and it was one of them things that just wasn't gonna work, I then took him the bear shell and it was mounting time. I get a phone call a few days later with the bad news, (which I knew this wouldn't of went smoothly at all) the engine was to poke from the bonnet and the gearbox tunnel was to be chopped out… So I took the car back home stripped the interior and took an angle grinder into my hands and went crazy.. cutting the top of the gearbox tunnel off and about 50mm up the firewall. Car went back and engine was mounted… At last the car was back in my garage and the wiring was started on… I ripped out the heater and aircon and it wasn't going back in. I wanted the car to be rewired from headlights to tail lights, I wanted the fues box and relays on a plate were the aircon and heater box usually are… I was being a pain aswell. I wanted my mirrors to work, my lights, wipers, interior lights I wanted every stock electrical thing in the car to be working. I was goin to be driving this car on the street. And belive me I do on the odd occasion, wish I could more often. After many long nights months went past and the wiring was only getting started. It was becoming a nightmare, we couldn't get things to work together, the Nissan and the Honda just didn't want to mix. Frustrating times nearly made me ditch the project and sell it all… My brother made me keep goin and said "lets finish this thing, if you dnt like it once its done will then sell it". Like f**k I was gonna sell it once it was done… Wiring got done and engine was now turning over with the keys… wooohooo… Time to sort out exhaust manifold, plenum, cooler, radiator, fuel setup etc.. The car went to see Mick at Head Tech were he made the exhaust manifold to house my GT3076R and my 60mm Tial gate. And a full 3inch exhaust, which was a pain in the ass because the hot side now was on the opposite side to a normal Nissan engine… The plenum having an efficient runner setup was cut and shut to now face forwards not backwards. Thanks Mick, works of art… Car came back home for me to finish off the rest. Turbo was secured with water and oil lines in place and heat sleved, gate was V-banded into its place, exhaust bolted up. Plenum got bolted up, the custom cooler set up was put together by my brother and myself as well as the radiator and custom piping. Fuel rail went in and houses RC 1000cc injectors a Magnafuel fuel reg was in place, custom surge tank with Walbro in-tank pump and Bosch external pump. Then I worked on the suspension. I threw in some Tien Super Drift coils, tune agent castor, camber and roll control centres. Godspeed rear toe arms. Hard race tie rods went in, brand new poly bushers all round, sub-frame risers. R200 4.36-welded diff went in. The breaks were sourced out of an s15 as well as the 5stud conversion, with DBA discs and Bendix pads. A 9point Cusco cage was thrown in for good measures, Supra Recaro seats and Alpine head deck, and the rest of the stock interior went back in to give it that cosy feeling. The car was ready to be cranked and started, we got a Hondata ECU with a base turbo map with the injectors scaled in, to be able to start and drive it easy to run the fresh clutch in, on the street. Yes the car became my daily drive for about 2weeks to run the clutch in. Drove it to work and back every day… The day came and it was ready for a tune… nerves were running high as I didn't really know what kinda boost we were looking at running and I was hoping I was going to make at least what my brother was making… The car went on the dyno at Rev Zone and started getting its tune with part throttle and full load with a 50degree cam angle adjustment this all take precision and time. About an hour later a power run came on and I see the revs climbing to about 6000rpm, with all the noise and commotion the car made an easy 140kw, the catch was VTEC hadn't been engaged as yet… Another about hour of tunning and with VTEC engaging at about 3300rpm and reving it to 6000rpm the car churned out 230-240kw on 12.5psi… I was bouncing off walls, we had at least another 2500rpm to rev this thing and it was making the power I wanted… A bit more tunning happened and a bit more revving and the car started to make ridiculous numbers, both torque and KW… car was revved to 6800 and made 270kw and 450nm. Craig had an idea to try and take some torque out of the engine. That kind of torque on stock conrods was sure to throw a rod. Craig's words were "do you want to drive it home tonight or if you get a bit closer you can catch the rods when they fly out of the block." Before we went for drastic measures we tried one last power run, now to 7000rpm but he would flood the engine with fuel, make it soo rich that it wouldn't make any more power but loose power. The A/F ratio plummeted to nearly 9:0 at about 6500 and the car made another 10KW… I was devastated, we had no choice but to reduce the boost =( The boost went from 12.5psi to 8psi. which for me, I felt we were goin backwards… I love boost, but it wasn't on my side that day… Car went on to make an easy, laid back 253Kw and 340nm at 8psi at 8500rpm… I couldn't complain with that, the car was amazing, after being able to take it for a proper bash up and down the street, the car feel insane. I couldn't believe how well it went, how no lag it had. It was a dream… The car had now gone onto doing a 12.3sec at 118mph in street/drift trim. It has been to about 6/7 drift days, gets driven to car meets and shows and on weekends when time permits. The engine has never failed me, it has never broken a single thing... I couldn't of asked for any thing more. For the future I may try to squeeze 10psi out of her to up the torque and Kw and really push this engine to the limit… Parts list: Engine: K20A2 (02 DC5 Type R) Engine Mods: Internally completely stock Induction: Garrett Gt3076r, Tial 60mm eternal gate. Custom made stainless steam pipe exhaust manifold, HPC coated. Drift Pod filter, custom intercooler and copper piping. Custom made intake manifold, stock throttle body. Fuel System: Walbro 255l/h in-tank pump, custom surge 2L surge tank. Bosch 921 external fuel pump, Ryco inline fuel filter. MagnaFuel fuel pressure regulator, Hybrid Racing fuel rail. RC 1000cc injectors. ProFlow fittings throughout. ECU & Ignition: Hondata K-Pro, battery in boot. Custom wiring through out. Exhaust: Custom made 3inch turbo back. Single mid muffler. Twin drift flutes. DRIVETRAIN Gearbox: Stock s2000 AP1 Clutch: Exedy cushion button (sprung centre). Differential: CA18 turbo R200 locked. 4.36 gears. Breaks: Front- s15 stock callipers, disks and pads. Rear- s15 stock callipers, DBA disks, Bendix Ultimate pads. Suspension: Tien Super Drift coilovers all round. Tune Agent front caster rods and roll control centres. Super Pro front inner control arm bushers. Tune Agent rear camber arms. Godspeed Project rear kinked toe arms. Super Pro front and rear sway-bar links and D-bushers. Stock sway-bars. WHEELS/TYRES: Front- SSR formula mesh 16x9.5+8 with 215/45 Kumo KU36 Rear- Old skl Weds 17x9+13 with 215/45 Nankang NS-2 INTERIOR: Recaro, Supra driver and passenger seats. Safety 21 half cage (front half not installed yet). Dash Matt, S2000 gauge cluster. Personal steering wheel, DC5 type r gear knob. Custom dash tray/table. Silvia floor matts EXTERIOR: SLR 5000 bonnet scoop. B-Wave boot wing. Nismo, aero side skirts. Rolled front and rear guards. Silvia mud flaps. Sponsor stickers. PERFORMANCE: 253kw @ the wheels, on 8psi, @ 8500rpm. 340NM @ 4000rpm 12.3sec 1/4 mile (street tyres) Thanks for reading guys Toli
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