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It's a fact that JDM foglights kick ass. You get a little extra light, but the real payoff is the extra JDM. But what do you do if your front bar has been shaved to fit a FMIC at some stage? Miss out on all that JDM? Hardly. Most people fall for the following traps: Buy a replacement bar. $250 buys a lifetime of zipties, so don't fall for this train of thought. Install Chinese foglights and use yellow paint to make them JDM. Wrong. Chinese lights are only JDM when Greddy package them. Are you Greddy? Didn't think so. In contrast, the seasoned JDM connoisseur shuts their wallet tight as a nun's nasty, and makes it fit. Difficulty = 4 Where 0 is finding a replacement front bar, and 10 is parting with the cash. Time Required = 2 hours in the cold and dark Tools Required Bigass vice Hammer Various screwdrivers Stick welder or mig with suitable gear Power drill Wirewool brush Various drill bits Marker pen 2 small socket-head bolts + washers + nuts 20mmx3mmx1m of galvanised steel bar Angle grinder with 1mm cutting disc Matt black engine paint (self-priming) Usage Brag about defects for daytime foglight usage. And frankly, that's sick as Build rapport with Commodore drivers Pray for fog and then forget to turn the lights on Makes JDMST peeps hot Process Step 1. Mark 3cm from the end of the metal rod. Step 2. Bend the bar at the 3cm mark, hammering and bending it to achieve a 180 degree loop. Step 3. Cut the long end off and cut a 2mm channel on one side using an angle grinder. The channel should be on the front of the light. Step 4. Fit the loop to the appropriate end of the light, then test-fit the light in the bumper bar. Make sure the loop is a snug fit. Removing the bumper makes this easy. Step 5. Mark where the loop hits the bumper bar, cut 3cm of leftover metal rod and weld it perpendicular to the loop. Step 6. Mark a nice point to bolt the welded piece to the bumper bar, and drill a 5mm hole, or whatever. You want it close to the end of the plastic, so it's out of sight. Step 7. Cut a 2mm channel on one side of the bolts. This will allow you to hold them in place using a screw driver whilst tightening the nut. Step 8. Repeat steps 1-7 for the other light. Step 9. Paint the brackets matt black to seal them and reduce their visibility. Step 10. Mount the lights and drill holes in the plastic to achieve the desired alignment position. Step 11. Remove the lights and brackets. Step 12. Loosely fit the brackets using the bolts/washers/nuts, then install the lights; slot into the bracket, then bolt in place. Step 13. Insert a screwdriver in the slot on the bolt, then tighten the nut to suit. Step 14. Attach bar if you removed it, attach light trim if you have it, and plug them in! So what if the FMIC is still there? In case it wasn't obvious enough already, if you chopped your bar to clear an FMIC, and the FMIC is still there... probably not gonna happen with the stock bolt positions. I use a midmount cooler, so I haven't personally tried the method below, however there is absoloutely no reason why it wouldn't work. What you will have to do in this situation is: Chop the plastic higher up, or cut a 20mm slot so as to mount the metal bracket further towards the front. Same bracket design will be fine. Measure the dimensionS for a spacer for the lower bolt holes. Given the bolt holes are set at an angle, you can't use washers or nuts to extend the mount points. Cut two bars that span both bolt holes Cut two short lengths of bar (let's assume 60mm long) Set the long bars at the correct angle, then weld them to the short bars, forming an open rhombus. Drill holes in the lower part, bolt it to the bumper bar, then tack weld the bolt heads in place Drill holes in the upper part, the light to it, then tack weld the nuts in place Remove the bracket and fully weld the tacked bolts and nuts, creating studs at the bottom, and a threaded hole at the top Weld a piece of sheet steel over the exposed side for a tidy look Paint using matt black paint, or whatever colour you prefer Bolt the light in place using the brackets, plug in and align the beam pattern Here's a sophisticated diagram I didn't make in CAD: Foglight plugs and sockets For those installing on an actual S15, you probably already have sockets and loom in your car. F**king score. For everyone else, here are some pics of the S15 chassis plugs, and the globe sockets. Take the lights to a self-serve wrecking yard and find something suitable (check Pulsars and twin-light Celicas).
OMG, I was driving down the road, then all the sudden I lost the clutch,, the car isnt drivable, had to get it towed home........... the car starts... thats good, there is a burned clutch smell... no good, I can put it into 1st gear, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and reverse (reverse lights turn on), without pushing the CLUTCH pedal, and the car doesnt drive or stall,,, Any ideas of what that might be,,,,,???? shops down here dont open till 9/1/12,,, Thanks for any help
hey all just looking to get a second opnion. recently bought my 1999 spec r 200sx and thus far i have done the following mods: sports suspension 18" multi spoke wheels (similar to BBS style) with fairly decent dish HKS blow-off exrtactors full nismo exhaust front to back aftermarket rear lights. There are a few things bugging me about the car i.e. 2x the speaker dont work and i need to replace the VVTI cam gears and clutch soon. What im trying to go for is JDm style s i am thinking of getting some aftermarket coilovers to lower the car a bit more then a rear camber kit. Nothing too crasy at all just to put it on edge with the wheel lip and stretched tyres. i'd also fix the stereo, VVTi gears clutch and look at getting a tune. Any suggestions on what you think looks good? i'm in love with s15 with rear camber and i'd really prefer that At the end of the day i'm a young bloke where this is going to be my one expenditure so i want it to be appealing both performance wise and in stance.