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Found 124 results

  1. So I'm looking for an SR20det engine block for my 13 (which has a CA18 ATM, and I want to upgrade), if someone is selling one or can send me in the right way without the harsh charge that'd be great! ✌️✌️
  2. alternator belt

    so i was doing some stuff on the 180 today to get some more room happening i took my clutch fan off with ought thinking i turned my car on withough tightening the clutch fan nuts. the belt flew off, and now i cant get the C%&T back on, iv tried loosing the alternator but i must be doing it wrong PLEASE WHAT HAVE I DONE?! :/ and yes i know i'm an idiot
  3. Hi Guys & Girls, Need some help with my daily which is a N15 SSS, I tried posting on Pulsar.org but didn't get feedback. I know its not a Silvia but it has a SR20 which is close lol I have noticed on hot days when I put on the Air Con my car starts to overheat. Temperature goes past the half way mark and keeps climbing, when I turn off the Air Con the engine temp goes back to normal. I had a look around and I noticed that when the temp gauge goes past half way the 2nd smaller thermo fan does not kick in. Matter of fact this 2nd thermo never turns on at all. I tried to locate the fuse of this small thermo fan but had no luck, can anyone point me in the right direction? show me a diagram/workshop manual of where the fuse is? Thanks in advance
  4. [VIC] T28BB, s14/33/R32 stock wheels

    T28BB good condition, fins are in good condition, little movement but once oil is through it should be perfect turbo + hardlines, do not have snouts etc $300 s14 sr20 standard exhaust manifold with welded egr $50 R33/s14 stock wheels set one pair tread still has a few skids left other pair of tyres gone $100 r32 stock wheels, tyres no good $100 located northern suburbs
  5. Hi guys as above need to know the size/thread of the stock manifold heat shield bolts My heat shield is holding on with 1 bolt as the others seem to have come loose and dropped off so i'm getting lots of lovely rattles from it at the moment need to get some new bolts but want to know what to get cheers
  6. For sale is a rb25 5 speed with sr20 bell housing fitted and steel 3rd gear selector fork. Bell housing was built be Eleventen Engineering in Adelaide. Check him out of Facebook he does heaps of these bell housings. I chose Eleventen because they use a proven jig to make sure everything lines up right. The box also has a aftermarket 3rd gear selector fork fitted, also built by Eleventen. This is a steel fork which replaces the week original alloy one. Comes with clutch fork, and specially modded thrust bearing carrier which aligns the box to the correct height for a Sr20 clutch. No shifter (pick up a rose jointed short shifter from eBay). This is one tough box for your Sr20 powered ride. Box is located in Beacon Hill near Dee Why on Sydney's lower northern beaches. $2300 represents good value - $1500 for rb box+ $150 sr bell housing + $500 for conversion + $$$ for labour + $$$ for billet selector.
  7. Shed clearout

    Time to clear a few things outta my shed I don't need; TuneAgent adjustable cam gears, suit SR20. Done approx 300km since new. $120 BRAND NEW S13 braided rear brake lines - $50 Universal 13 row oil cooler core, -10AN fittings. Will chuck in a sandwich plate also (suit SR/RB), with both 3/4UNF & M20 x 1.5 fittings to bolt onto block (all brand new never fitted): $50 S15 cloth drivers seat, slight drink stain. Bolts into S13/14 as well. $100 S13 tail lights, mint condition. $70 Bolt on wheel arch flares (same as seen on the front of JET200 & the MCM 180sx), brand new never fitted. $150 GTi Swift sideskirts & roof spoiler: $150 Southern suburbs Adelaide. Can post at buyers expense if wanted. Dave - 0431 622 600 Can PM photos if wanted. File attachment isn't working for me and won't let me upload all of the photos. >.
  8. i recently purchased a polished sr20 rocker cover. When it arrived I noticed that there is no baffles in the rocker cover any more on the polished cover i have purchased. So my question is, are the baffles needed and if I should not install because of this? Can someone explain i would really appreciate it lol Thanks for your help it'll be appreciated
  9. Hi, Currently fitting Plazmaman plenum, fuel rail, throttle body, and turbo smart fuel reg and ID1000s... and have a few minor issues. Has anyone had experience fitting a Plazmaman intake manifold. It bolts up to the lower part of he factory runners fine, but there are no provisions for throttle cable. How did you run yours and where did you mount the fixed part of the cable? It come with a remote mount block for the idle control, where is the best place to mount this? I plan to use the factory steel fuel lines, whats the best way to change the ends to JIC to fit up speed flow fittings? Any extra advise on where to place things in the engine bay would be appreciated also, eg fuel reg etc Thanks in advance, Martin
  10. Wiring Help

    Hey guys! Ive recently bought a S13 SR20DET Blacktop and i'm trying to tidy up the wiring in the body. Now. Here comes the strange part. My car was running fine and all of a sudden a cloud of smoke came from under the bonnet. I turned it off and lifted the hood and couldn't source where the smoke came from. I turned it back on and no smoke was present. But i noticed that my alternator wasn't working. So i believe that it blew the Voltage Regulator inside? So, i thought i might try and see why this happened. I did some continuity checks and noticed that my power distribution block was connected to ground. They were big resistances, but it shouldn't be there at all.. I found some wires that were grounded, but simply pulled out the fuse in the drivers footwell due to not needing them. I thought that fixed it. I did some more testing and found that when i push on the 2 x 20AMP Fuses in the engine bay (H/Lamp L/H & H/Lamp R/H) it grounds to earth? When i mean earth i mean, resistance goes from OPEN to 0.410MegOHMS Not sure if anyone can help me out. But is my whole fuse block stuffed? If there is any information that i missed that could help. Please let me know! Thanks heaps.
  11. gtir motor

    gtir pulsar minus turbo kit and computer , only has 3000kms on it , darton sleevs, cp pistons 1mm over ,pauter xbeam rods, arp studs, new timing chain kit,water pump, oil pump, nitto drag head gasket, 1mm over size valves supertech exh and int, jun cam gears ,jun double valve springs, and titanium retainers ,272 cams with 11mm lift , also have clutch to suit which is only new ,alloy radiator to suit plus other bits and pieces to suit gtir interested in cash or maybe swaps , interested in s13/14/ rolling shell or motor of equal value 0432659096
  12. **Price Drop** - Be quick, will not last long at this price! 250rwkw, showroom condition, full service history, low KM, Only the best JDM parts. 2002 Nissan 200SX Spec S GT This car has been my pride and joy for the last 5 years and I have spent well over $20,000 in modifications. Mature owner, serviced every 5 thousand km’s using high quality fluids & parts, washed & polished regularly and driven only on weekends (always garaged). Would love to hold onto it, selling due to getting a company car The car makes 300kw (250rwkw) at 21psi on e85. Built/Serviced and tuned by Sabbadin Automotive Australia. All modifications have been purchased new and installed 6 months ago with receipts (Modifications comply with Victorian laws and thus a RWC will be provided) Never been on a track This is a very powerful road registered car- not for the faint-hearted. Car can be tuned on 98 octane if requested by buyer. Engine has perfect compression and is showing no signs of wear and tear, mechanically A1! Car has been tuned conservatively with engine safety in mind. Modifications: Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers Tomei Type A Valve Springs ARC turnflow intercooler CES 3inch full exhaust with high flow cat CES dump pipe Walbro e85 fuel pump with e85 fuel lines 740cc Nismo Injectors Turbosmart Fuel Pressure Regulator Stock airbox with K&N filter and cold air intake. z32 AFM with custom built pipe GFB Deceptor Pro Blow off Valve Koyo 53mm radiator Splitfire Coilpacks Turbosmart eboost-street controller Turbo: Custom built low mount TD06SL2 - 20G with billet flywheel - Very responsive Braided oil and water lines HKS Heavy Duty Actuator Driveline: Standard 6 speed NPC organic heavy duty clutch & flywheel~3000km old Wheels/Suspension: Limited Edition Rays Engineering 350z rims (235/40/18) Lowered Springs I have the GT wing (boot lid) in storage, will be provided with sale as well as all other stock parts One of, if not the cleanest on sale - will not disappoint, first to see will buy. The sale includes factory wheels (other parts available) FULL SERVICE HISTORY WITH LOG BOOKS and RWC, serious offers/buyers only – no test pilots. Please feel free to contact me for any questions regarding the car Carsales Link: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-200SX-2002/SSE-AD-2693239/?Cr=11&sdmvc=1
  13. 3x nismo 740cc Injectors for sale, Brand New in Box Need them gone! $350ono please feel free to contact me 0423 775 125 cheers Scott if you require pics please message me and ill send

    It's probably a long shot but I'm chasing some s13 nismo aero front bar vents, I'll take some in ANY condition I don't like the gaping holes where they are meant to be and want it looking clean, if you can help me out send me a message.
  15. **FOR SALE** Car: Nissan Silvia Spec S (AUSTRAIAN DELIVERED) Year: 2001 Transmission: 6spd Manual Odometer: 138,000k Drivetrain/Engine: SR20 Black top FMIC (polished piping) Trust POD Splitfire coilpacks Nistune ECU (tuned 191rwkw @14.5psi) By Anthony Cece, Jaustech. Greddy profec electronic boost controller 3" stainless exhaust, turbo back to twin straight pipes (sounds amazing) Suspension/Wheels BC coilovers - No knocks, great condition. 18 x 9.5 +20 genuine Volk Racing TE37 - Bronze wrapped in 225/35/18 rubber, very decent all round. Cosmetics Full VERTEX kit Genuine Yashio Factory LED Tail lights 3 months old Genuine Yashio Factory gear boot/knob 3 months old Pioneer DVD unit, with pioneer speakers in doors & rear shelf (suit standard holes, nothing chopped or cut) Respayed bodykit & Bonnet completed last week. The car being pretty low, the kit wasn't perfect for my standards as far as paint and slight crack in the fiberglass in the side skirts. Car is looking mint now. Genuine car, very responsive. I get around 500km to a full tank on the current tune. This car has all high quality parts, no crap fake brands Selling due to taking on a new business venture and I simply do not have room for the car at home, nor do I have the time to drive It. If you want anymore photos or questions regarding the car please call. 0433 830 055. Regards, Weez.
  16. 25000kms on engine and parts - 325rwkws @24psi Flex Fuel Power Tune forged short block (500kws) LONG MOTOR $5000 · Bore and hone block · Deck block · CP forged pistons and rings 86.5mm · BC conrods ARP2000 · ACL Race Series engine bearings (main, rod and thrust) · ARP main studs · OEM Water pump assembly · OEM Oil pump assembly · OEM timing chain kit · OEM rear main seal · OEM Front crank seals · Tomei sump · Tomei head gasket 87mm 1.5mm · Tomei rocker cover · Oil adapter block – remote oil filter Power Tune ported head package (500kws) · Crack test · Pressure test · Surface grind · Acid clean · Custom valve seats · New valve guides · New valve stem seals · Hand port and polish · Oversized valves · Match ported to exhaust gasket · Match porting to inlet manifold · BC single springs and titanium retainers · BC intake camshaft 264 · BC exhaust camshaft 272 · BC intake valves +1mm · BC exhaust valves +1mm · BC adjustable cam gear – exhaust · Tomei adjustable cam gear – intake · ARP head studs · Rocker stopper kit RB25 gearbox cut and shut, DCS 2200LB twin plate clutch(needs rebuild), dogleg sort throw shifter, Kreative Enterprises custom tail shaft $2000 Power Tune Twin In-tank fuel pump kit 1000HP $1000 · 2x Walbro 500HP 225L/HR · Braided lines and fittings front to rear -6 · Earls inline filters -6 Cusco 2way 4.08. $600 Haltech Platinum Pro S15 $1200 Haltech Air Temp sensor $30 Haltech 3 Bar MAP sensor $80 Haltech boost control solenoid $80 Haltech I/O 12 channel expander box $400 S14 to S15 adapter harness $100 Ethanol sensor – To run on E85 or 98 unleaded and any combination of the two $220 Garrett 3076 T3 .63 BB Turbo $900 6 Boost manifold $600 Turbosmart 38mm Wastegate $350 Turbosmart Raceport BOV $250 Turbo smart FPR800 $200 JUN type Inlet manifold, 870cc Siemens injectors, BMI top feed fuel rail (twin entry) $700 Black speedflow fittings throughout w/ black lightweight braid $Various Race Solutions – Intake pipe, Air box, Intercooler piping, Power steering reservoir, Oil catch can and Overflow bottle. All powder coated black $Various Odyssey Battery PC1200 with bracket mounted in boot $250 MR Racks rebuilt power steering rack including rechroming $350 Holford Motors – HFM Castor, Toe and Traction Rods $250 Ikeya Formula rear upper arms (camber) $200 Immaculate S15 front and rear seats $500 Navan front bar $500 Navan side skirts and rear pods – not fitted $250 and $150 JDM rear bar $300 30mm rear over fenders – not fitted. As new gel coat $200 Siebon Carbon fibre door panels, 1 piece OEM style – not fitted $600 Powertune topfeed fuel rail with 2000cc injectors – not fitted $600 Nolathane rear subframe bushes in subframe RDA slotted, dimpled and gold passivated rotors Heaps more stock parts All located Penrith NSW. Photos available on request. Currently all on vehicle unless specified. Car is NOT running at present
  17. hey there i have a quick noob question for anyone that can help!! with the sr20det over radiator catch can i can see where one of the the lines in connected to the motor but i don't know where the other line is connected up to in the photo below. is there specific area that these lines have to run to or there is a few places??
  18. hey guys i am having some problems with my 200sx s15, it is nearly all stock apart from exhaust, FMIC, and alloy radiator. it is coming onto boost extremely late around 4300-4500. you can hear it winding up before hand but honestly don't feel any type of boost till about the 4500 mark as i said. i have a few mates with s15's and s14's and when their cars were stockas they believe it was definitely coming onto boost with no lag what so ever and after taking my car for a drive they reckon something is definitely up. when installing the new radiator last night we tightened all the FMIC piping as well as blocking off 2 small broken nipple holes in the fmic piping as my car would get little shudders and nearly stall when dropping revs which we put down to boost/air leek, this did completely stop the shuddering problem but has done nothing to they laggy feeling of boost coming on. We also tried changing VCT solenoid because their wasn't a great deal of difference in the feel of the car after we disconnected the wires to the vct solenoid but after replacing the selonoid and hooking it all back up it was still the same. my VCT cam gear is a bit noisy and will be replacing quiet soon but have been told this shouldn't effect the performance of the car i was wondering before i go out and take my car to a mechanic and get them to find the problem via bloody hit and miss and lots of my cash, if anyone has any suggestions i should try out or if people have had similar problems?? thanks for any input people can give me as i don't have the cash for a mechanic to replace 10 things to finally work it what the problem was
  19. Hey people (s13 redtop) my compressor wheel has been making an awful screech and at the time being I don't have the tools/setup to remove it. If I remove the belt will it have any detrimental effect? other than just being dead weight? thanks
  20. After Screwing around with an old aftermarket ecu for a whole day and playing with very coarse injectors pulse increments using 450cc injectors I finally spat the dummy and decided to integrated a sr20det 50F00 ecu , loom and Nistune board to our customers van which we earlier converted to 4G63 turbo (rvr evo ) engine with all the factory 4wd drive line. The end result was exactly what i was hoping , perfect cold start and warm start, excellent mixtures and stable idle during warm up and very stable mixtures through out the whole map. The gtir rnn14 AAC controls idle as if it was fitted to the vehicle by Mitsubishi on the production line, this has been a pleasure to tune, the set up responds to every key stroke almost like a motec The power output is more then we had hoped with the tune 70% complete and the last of the steady state tune done at 5200 rpm, we have 820nm peak torque @ 3400 rpm , 144kws, 13 psi @ 5200 rpm with a very conservative ignition map as it's running a small td04 turbo which makes full boost by 2600-2700 rpm, I'm amazed at how well it tuned and it was a pleasure to tune This really proves the flexibility and quality of the factory Nissan ecu's especially with the Nistune boards fitted, We will be trialing nistune fitted ecu's on a few different vehicles in the future , we are hoping that all motor enthusiast would consider running Nistune as an alternative to aftermarket ecu's. This would really benefit budget builds and the smooth factory drive ability plus all the features ( cold-warm start, accel enrich decel inj cut off, crank enrich etc...) work exactly as they should and this would be very time consuming and expensive to achieve with an aftermarket ecu. A small clip of start up ! http://youtu.be/Ods0jGFcUOI Pics Of The Build
  21. I've got a 91 S13 with SR20DE, I done a big end bearing so I'm currently rebuilding, at some point I melted (and I mean melted) my knock sensor so I need I new one. I'm having a bit of trouble finding one as I'd really prefer to get a new genuine Nissan one, if anyone could help or point me in the right direction that would be really appreciated. Cheers, Curtis.
  22. Dirty Red S14

    Kouki S14 was always a favourite car of mine as a kid, so April 2013 I bought my dream car (lol, idiot). Owning this car has definitely been an eye opener, and a massive learning curve but if I could go back and do it again, I probably wouldn't change it. I thought I was buying a bargain, a kouki with all the good gear at a great price, what could go wrong?! I had a mate in the know come check it out before I put down any money and he confirmed, good stuffs. A few weeks later, this fine automobile was in my front yard. Mods were: Rebuilt SR20 with 50,000kms Garrett 3071 T2 internal gate Tomei 256/256 with VCT Nismo 2 way LSD Greddy Intercooler 800cc injectors Twin Plate clutch Haltech PS1000 Tein coilovers with cusco adjustable arms ORC Twin Plate probably more but I forget... Sounded like a great combination for a nice street car. Plans were, ditch the rota's get a nice aggressive set of work equips, lower it a bit more and more or less keep it clean and straight while being a fun daily drifter. After having it sit like this for a while I started getting curious and pulling bits off which is when I discovered the jibbery. 800cc injectors - nope, Nismo 555's/550's (yellow, would have known earlier if I researched); Nismo 2 way - nah jokes bro, locked r200 (I had no idea what a genuine 2 way felt like, but I knew this was tight as ferk and would rip skids); At least it still has cams though... no idea what kind, good chance they're not tomei but having cams is a plus; Ended up ditching the twin plate because it was so difficult to get up the gutter into my yard. Polished the intercooler Ripped out the dash, got rid of the gauges and took off the turbo timer in an attempt to make it that little bit less defectable. Will probably all go back in once I see some serious track time. Also added in heater box etc, so that I'd have a functioning demister during the winter fog. No aircon though, because racecar. Acquired some budget skid rims, the more the merrier? Installed some front indicators, with additional bulbs because they are 5w and blinked fast Dummied up some 3" pig pipes Bit longer than expected, but that's cool if you aren't the police, right? Somewhere about here, it started running on 3 cylinders and after a bit of help from some members here, discovered it was the coilpack transistor/ignitor chip. After a week of having it registered, the 3071 decided it wanted to die a noisy death, like nails on a chalkboard, some front to back shaft movement was causing the turbine wheel to scrub on the housing It was time for a more responsive turbo anyway. After much umming and ahhhing and wanting to stick to a low budget, my Hypergear ss1pu came a few weeks ago. No pics of the fun time I had swapping turbo's, and getting 3 sets of coolant lines made up, and drilling out the holes in the dump pipe which changed position after dumping the chinese stainless manifold. While this was going on, I also installed GKtech RAS, which it was supposed to already have, a GKtech clutch fan and a billet pulley kit, however the alternator pulley needed modifying and the night before it's tune aintnobodygottimefodat so the factory pulley went back on. Something about this pic that I really dig And as of last Thursday I'm here... To say I'm disappointed would be a mega understatement, ECC did the tuning and he cleaned up the maps heaps because they looked shite before. The timing was 'out', but it seems that correcting that has taken ALL of my turbo's response. First install the turbo was nuts, positive pressure around 1,800rpm and 18psi before 4,000rpm, loved it. Now I'm not starting boost til about 3,000rpm and 18psi is after 5,000; as well as some other issues that need discussing. I'm going to call him after my exam on Wednesday and see what's up. So I'm on the hunt for a bigger exhaust 3"-3.5" if anyone finds a cheapie, let me know! So as it stands, mods are: Hypergear SS1pu T2 internal gate, sort've equivalent to a GT-RS I think Unknown lumpy cams Broken VCT China split dump P.O.S mix and match exhaust Greddy intercooler Standard intake manifold Standard exhaust manifold Alloy 3" intake pipe by ECC GKtech RAS GKtech clutch fan Haltech PS1000 Exedy HD organic Cusco adjustable rear arms Tein HR coilovers Rota D2ex - F: 18x9.5+13 (effectively), - R: 18x10+12 This thread is not as exciting as some on here, but it's going to be long, and hopefully marginally entertaining, by thriving in my misfortune if nothing else. Plan is still to keep it a daily, and attend drift events whenever possible, hoping to learn even more along the way, as there is an exciting/daunting world of LCAs, knuckles, members, racks, rods, and other mechanical goodness awaiting.