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Found 242 results

  1. My 180sx / Made to Slide

    Here we have my 180sx, owned it for about 6 months now. Great car, scary to drive which makes it so fun. Anyway ill stop talking and start with the spec. Perfomance HKS 2835r Turbo (make up to 310kw) Apexi fc computer 18psi 3inch High flow cat/Sports Muffler Spaghetti Manifold Xedy cushion button Clutch 1000cc Injectors Braided Turbo lines Splitfire coilpacks Oil Catch can Handling Torque Dampner Coilover strut bars front and back 4.11 r33 diff R33 Front Brakes Its currently making 275kw atw, Still have plans to make it much faster and bulletproof. Let me know what you guys think and if you's have any tips or ideas. Will post pics of engine and stuff just need to take some more photo's.
  2. Hey guys first time on here, i have a 180sx i bought a few months back, today my back tyre went out, completely fried it. I was contemplating on changinf my rims anyway and wanted to get some tips and opinions on what would look real nice on my car. Dont go overboard with some pricey ones but id really appreciate some help with this. I currently have 20'inch ones on there from previous owner. Was never a fan of the rim. Thanks guys! P.s I dont have the best photos of the rims at this moment will upload more tomorrow.
  3. Hey guys, Just purchased a 180sx, it has the standard VLSD in it. I just want to know how it is for drifting? I have done a couple of small slides so far, and it does seem to single peg when going slowly. But that might be because I was going pretty slow, and it only seemed to be singling in the wet? Considering just shimming or welding. Let me know your thoughts guys! Thanks!
  4. I need this gone before June, as i will be travelling overseas for holidays! Reasonable offers will be considered. $12,999 Location: Hoxton Park 2168 A very good example of a 180sx This Nissan 180SX Hatch is a genuine performance vehicle. Has been lovingly cared for and in immaculate condition. Is a non-smoker's car. Always been garaged. It has never been in an accident. List of Modification 17x9 Volks AV Toyo T1 Sports Front and Rear 90% Coilovers Front and rear Cusco Adjustable Camber arm front and rear Dmax Rear Traction arms 5 Stud Conversion Front Brembo Calipers 4 Pot R32 GTR Rear GTR Calipers 2 Pot Rear R32 Diff Brand new rear cradle mounts Full Vertex Kit Front, Side & Rear by JSAI 180sx with a SR20DET Engine Engine is complimented with the Precision 5130 Turbo EMS Ecu tuned 1000cc Injectors Spitfire Coilpacks w/Copper Spark Plug Greddy Front Mount Intercooler Walbro Fuel Pump Sard Fuel Regulator 38PSI Alloy Radiator Cusco Strut bar VAREX Exhaust twin tip with remote S15 Suede Blue interior Momo Steering wheel Eboost 2 Controller 18PSI Fantastic sound system with a Clarion Double Din Navigation Mongoose Alarm System GPS Tracker Car gets good fuel economy compared to all the S Chassis i have owned, 280-300km per tank consistantly Tuned at POWERTUNE in MAR 2016 Make me an offer Contact: 0432 472 Six Zero Four Photos upon request, image uploader website is just not working for me atm.
  5. 180sx body kit pieces

    Hi all, Selling the body kit pieces in the pictures. Prices vary but everything is either $100 or under for each item or you can make an offer. In a good used condition. Located in Bangor, NSW. Can not post. Call 0401 316 180 (Shane or Rachel)
  6. Hi all, Selling the body kit pieces in the pictures. Prices vary but everything is either $100 or under for each item or you can make an offer. In a good used condition. Located in Bangor, NSW. Can not post. Call 0401 316 180 (Shane or Rachel)
  7. WTB S13/180sx Shell or Running Car

    Looking to buy a 180sx or s13 Not fussed on whether its running or not depending on the price Prefer a CA but will consider SR's Manual or Auto not fussed Would rather a running car NSW location but willing to travel for the right car and price
  8. Hi guys, Few bits and pieces listed, please ask for pics if needed. 180SX Type X Front drivers skirt pod $80 180SX Type X Rear floor mat (x1 only) $30 180SX Rear Reo bar $50 180SX Rear Number Plate lights $10 SOLD 180SX GK Tech no holes intercooler kit complete as new $450 SOLD 180SX Powerbond 20% underdrive pulley as new $300 180SX Vertex Rear bar silver fitted great $200 180SX Silver Bonnet faded paint $150 180SX Drivers side headlight cover panel $20 SOLD 180SX Drivers side headlight frame inc harnesses and motor $20 180SX Crystal Headlamp , single only $30 180SX Speedo surround panel, no holes or cracks $80 180SX column surround no holes $40 180SX ECU redtop $100 180SX SR slave cylinder $20 180SX tail shaft loop $10 180SX Rear Bumper cover black $50 180SX Window upper trims matt black pair $40 180SX Window upper trims good condition pair $50 180SX Window weather strip (lower window trim) pair $40 180SX Type X tail light globe holder (for one side) $25 180SX Gearbox crossmember "B" $50 180SX Power Steering pump $60 RB26 R34 Starter Motor mint $200 RB26 Aluminium Engine mount brackets $50 SOLD RB26 Blow off valve $50 SOLD RB26 gearbox crossmember $40 RB26 rear main seal housing $30 R32 Rear lower trims Left and Right 6/10 nick $50 R33 S2 Bonnet dents and scratches been in accident but usable $50 3" Stainless decat with flanges barrel type $50 SOLD 4 stud Lenso wheels set 17x7" one mismatched with 2 fried 2 ok tyres $200 Z32 AFM and Tomei plug kit to suit used $200 No other parts available, located Melbourne's east. Cheers, Mat. 0400 558 030
  9. Hey been wanting to buy a 180sx for a long time now but as I live in Tasmania there isn't much help about. Recently went looking at one locally (don't want to travel to the mainland to find one quite yet as funds don't permit). I love the car but I'm not sure if it is worth the amount they have on it it has a black top motor with 220kw or so and is amazing to drive but the exterior isn't great and needs work mainly with paint and a few scratches etc. Also a few other things seem to be dodgy and has 180000ks. For 8000 grand (may be able to decrease that) is it worth it?
  10. NEW !

    Hey fellas ! Finally decided to make a acc considering i've been on hardtuned following half of the members rides for quite sometime, I've owned an GC8, swapped for a R33, sold for an Honda integra sold to build my EG to it burning down 6 months ago.. havent had a car since. It was pretty rough for me, I just started my apprenticeship - mechanic for Subaru 3 weeks ago ! 4 years to go ... I've decided that its time to have a daily, I just miss the scene, mountains, HWY, I'm going to keep my words to go with an SILVIA ! I'm from south east melbs, currently looking to buy an NON TURBO 180sx or an S14 - non turbs - p Plate HELP ME OUT !! cant find one - I've an max budget of $15k,
  11. I'm currently scouring the internet in search of a set of 180SX Type X rear pods and valence and came across this: http://www.carmate.com/product_details.php?productid=NSSX90NSRA Can anyone tell me if these are replica type X pods and valence like in the top picture or are they just the aftermarket corner pieces in the bottom picture? If they are type X replicas can anyone vouch for quality and fit? Cheers
  12. Hi all, I have a set of 180sx mats for sale. Came out of my type x. 3 in very good condition, just a bit of wear on the 180sx logo on the drivers side. The passenger mat doesn't appear to be a genuine mat. It's taken me 10 years to notice this, as in the car it wasn't at all obvious. Asking $160 Pick up only is from Seventeen Mile Rocks 4073
  13. Nissan 180sx - 265+KW at the wheels EOI/For Sale - $18,000 You get a complete turn key package and MORE! Will come with QLD Rego and Safety Cert. Can send offers, I'll just say no if itstoo low. No drastic hurry to sell, your getting ALOT more than just the car (hence the price tag) Car Build: 1000km on rebuilt engine (SMP Tuning & Engines) on motor, stage 3 everything (head work, hydraulic lifters, cams, adjustable gears, forged everything, braided lines) 8500rpm Rev limiter, can go higher (aka more power - See Shaun at SMP Tuning & Engine to arrange this!) Custom intake and exhaust manifold Custom dump and removable screamer pipe. GT3071 (500kms old) running 20psi Brand new turbosmart external wastegate. 3" straight though to twin cannons Hydraulic handbrake Alpine Stero and Speakers Turbosmart BOV Skyline brakes all around (new rotors, 5000km old) Bilsten shocks on lowered springs (5000km old) 17" rims - 9" rears 8" fronts 148k on body, 1000km on engine since rebulid. Alloy radiator (ISC performance with twin thermo's) Excedy HD clutch. Projector Headlights Adjustable Rear arms Autometer genuine gauges Walbro intank Near new tyres all around. Lots other bits and pieces I've done over the years that I can't remember ATM. Perfect drift car, Bilstens make it awesome for the track too. Spares/extras (not installed) Front and Rear FBR Wide Fenders Complete Veilside bodykits Another Front Bar ADR approved FBR Bonnet 4 x 17"-7"Wide White 8 spoke rims (for rears only, won't clear the front brakes) Spare gearbox Halo/Angel Headlights Clear Tailights Under Engine Bash Plate. New oils in everything. Changed ever 5000k's engine, only done 12000km since change on the gearbox/diff. Can deliver pretty much anywhere in QLD for cost of fuel and a ride to nearest major airport/bus station. If not I can probably get it trucked anywhere else in Aus for a decent rate given enough notice. Spent well over 25K on this car. Weapon to drive, handles like it's on rails till you hit boost then you hold on and hope you know what your doing. I will miss it from the shed but need the money to move. Call, sms, PM, email, whatever suits. 0458 518 436 - datsun180@gmREMOVEail.com
  14. Hi all, My nismo catback has a slight kink in the first bend after the cat. Works fine but the exhaust tip is a little more left than I'd like so I've had to bend the last exhaust hanger off the rear muffler so that its edge doesn't rest against the rear quarter. I'm about to put in a new tomei dump since its still running stock at the moment and am looking for front pipe options. Not really wanting to change the catback since it took me so long to find, and with the kink in mind I was thinking of getting a front pipe with a flex bit welded in (currently JJR seem to be the easiest/cheapest option I've found). However, I'm worried about a couple of things: 1) The flex pipes usually hang low so going over big humps might grind away at it. 2) Since the kink is causing such a drastic change to the exhaust tip angle, the flex section might end up forced into a stressed/stretched out position negating most of the benefits of having a flex pipe. SO with those two things in mind, would a flex section even help or am I better off going with a solid 3" front pipe and keeping the hanger the way it is? Thanks
  15. By now, most people are aware of the ubituous Strawberry Face conversion for the S13/RPS13 chassis, however it's a conversion for which information is either lacking on the Internet, or is conflicting. This guide aims to address the core information you need to know, rather than teaching you how to cut a spot weld or tack the guards together. If you need that level of assistance, it's best that you turn to Youtube tutorials regarding the usage of your tools. I will also point out that whilst opinions are quite strong for or against this conversion, in real life I find most folks like it. If you have an S13 I would suggest you consider using S14a parts/panels for a look that better integrates with the angular chassis, the process is identical as the radiator support is the same between S14 and S15, but if you have a 180sx then the S15 panels are a great choice. Ignore the people who say that it's "too played-out" and that "every second Silvia has that conversion"; the fact that the Internet has a tonne of pics of this does not mean it's everywhere. In the last 5 years I recall having seen only three other Strawberry Silvias in person. From memory I have some old pictures I can add, however they were from the first time I did this and the instructions below contain some improvements. Parts Pitfalls The parts I listed below are what you actually require, with attention to the following points: S15 bonnet hinges sit the bonnet too high, which is why you need S14 hinges. There is however a catch to this. The S14 hinges technically don't fit perfectly, as you will see when you first slot them on and think "wtf is this pmod", however when you torque them down the metal of the bonnet will deform ever so slightly, and then they'll fit great. If you run a carbon/fibreglass bonnet, you will have to experiment with the hinges, as the deformation caused by torquing down the S14 hinges may damage the non-oem bonnet. The S13 bonnet latch is effectively the same as the S15 one, however you will have to use a long bolt and big nut (to act as a gap-bridging spacer) on the center bolt hole. Some people on the Internet recommend that you cut the S13 radiator support to mount the lights etc, however having done this as an experiment prior to removal, I can assure you that it's a terrible idea. You have to cut so much material away that you can bend parts of it by applying moderate pressure with your hand. Trying to mount the headlights is a chore too. Don't waste time even entertaining this idea; do it correctly and change the radiator support. Parts Needed S15 LH guard S15 RH guard S13/180sx LH guard (only require rear section) S13/180sx RH guard (only require rear section) S15 side indicators (pair) S15/N16 Pulsar indicator bulb holders + plugs (pair) S15 Bonnet S14 Bonnet Hinges S13/S14/S15 bonnet latch S15 Front Bumper (including plastic mounting clips) S15 Reo Bar S15 Upper Bumper Support Bracket S14/S15 Radiator Support S15 Headlights (pair) S15 Headlight Brackets (pair) S15/N16 Pulsar [iirc] Headlight Plugs Tools Needed Mig/Tig welder, mask, gloves, apron, spool, gas, etc Spot weld cutting drill bit Electric drill Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs and flappy wheels Nutcert tool/nuts if you want to use one Soldering iron and solder, or crimper and crimp connectors Sandpaper and blocks Rattle can of etch primer and black paint for the spot welds Small and medium C-clamps/G-clamps, vice grips, whatever Metric Socket driver or spanners Screwdrivers Patience Process Step 01. Completely strip the S13 front body panels and brackets Step 02. Use a spot-weld cutter on a drill to cut the spot welds on the radiator support Step 03. Cut the radiator support at the transition to the part that mounts the castor rod braket, unless you want to dick around with bolt holes and alignment issues. Step 04. Remove the S13 radiator support Step 05. Cut the S15 radiator support to match the cuts on the S13 one, with an ovelap so you can weld it Step 06. Bend the battery tray and opposite side as needed to match the S15 radiator support Step 07. Clamp the S15 radiator support in place; don't weld it yet Step 08. Bolt the front bonnet brackets in place; front S14 bracket holes go on the rear S13 holes iirc. At the end of the installation you can either weld a rear nut in place, or weld the bracket to the chassis, as desired. Do NOT leave this unattached as some people recommend, the brack will lift and fitment will suck, but the retention choice I'll leave to your discretion. My preference was to cut a small hole on the side of the rails to hold a nut in place using a spanner, then fully-weld it from the top. The holesaw cut can be welded up as desired. You cannot tap a hole in the rail, so your options are pain weld, welded nut, or possibly a massive nutcert. Step 09. Install the bonnet latch and align it Step 10. Cut the rear section of the S15 and S13 guards with a 2 inch overlap; there are pictures if you Google it Step 11. Mount the rear section of the S13 guards Step 12. Mount the front section of the S15 guards Step 13. Mount the headlights, reo, bumper support Step 14. Fiddle with stuff and hope you can get it all aligned, re-clamp the support and try to mark/clamp it's final position Step 15. Tack weld the support where possible, to avoid it shifting. Mark your bonnet rear hole position. Step 16. Remove everything Step 17. Fill all spot-weld holes on the S15 radiator support, clean/grind/paint the welds. You will likely find that the radiator support posts will weld higher than the bolt holes for the S13 ones. Either spot weld them at the bolt hole and call it a day, cut and hole and weld a nut in place, or rivet in a nutcert and bolt it in place. Welding is the fastest, however a nut is stronger and potentially less of a headache in the future. Weld/install a rear nut for the bonnet. Step 18. Install all parts and panels again Step 19. Trim and adjust the guards to get the alignment you need Step 20. Tack weld the guards in a few spots, applying pressure to ensure there are no gaps between the panels Step 21. Remove the guards and fully-tack them, alternating between the top and the bottom, having breaks to avoid the panel over heating and distorting/blowing through Step 22. Grind/seal/bog/sand the guards Step 23. Paint whenever Step 24. Wire up the headlights using common sense Step 25. Sell your complete S13/180sx front end Step 26. Winning Having done this myself twice now, I can say that despite how long the process is, one person can get all the mounting/welding done in a single weekend. The wiring is simple but can take a little time, mostly because it can be fiddly and requires a lot of testing with a multimeter. I'm not a painter so I can't even speculate on the painting and prep time, but if you start with clean, straight panels (unlike me), then the workload will be much lower. I will also add that if you opt for a colour that matches your car or is close enough, such as black, then spend some extra on a black bonnet and bumper to reduce the painting to just the guards. A "close enough" paint match can potentially be blended together using coloured wax and a proper wax/buff. If you respray the whole car the S15 panel colour, like gunmetal, then your respray should be a little cheaper for the same reason; chassis, doors, door jambs and guards only, as the bonnet and bar are good.
  16. Hi all Done some searching on here and cant seem to find any info on weather or not you can put a Double row timing chain into an SR20DET or not ?, if not that's fine and ill just go grab a standard chain but would just like to know as that is my next step Any help is very much appreciated, cheers
  17. G'day all Name is Cameron, 22, from the bush so not a great deal of imports out this way, very passionate about cars, i work as a mechanic on Agriculture machinery and in most of my spare time am working on a car, love hanging with mates and going on long drives, currently fixing up a 180sx, this is the first time i have done anything on an import so any tips or help is always greatly appreciated Anyone out near Dubbo or Narromine send us a pm Look forward to getting to know some of you, Cheers
  18. Sr20de urgent help

    Hi found a sweet sr20de for a good price but it's had holes drilled and tapped for turbo. Just want to know if I can just leave it and drop into the car will it still function normally without doing all the turbo shit and leaving it NA. Thanks
  19. Selling 180sx type x floormats! Immaculate condition, just need a dust off. Just taken out of my car. Seeing as just the front 2 go for around 300+, looking at $180 Brisbane CBD. 0434 2818 7 four. Text me if interested
  20. Wanting to buy a 180sx or s14 non turbo as my first car, p plater legal and preferred it to be stock
  21. Within the next few years I'm going to be doing an engine conversion on my 180sx. Currently it's running a silver top sr20 n/a. I'm going to either swap in a turboed sr (blacktop topnotch version) or a rb26det (single turbo conversion) The goal for the car is to be a daily but semi show car. I'm not looking for massive amounts of power but I will be rebuilding the engine, forged internals, cams, etc etc. The at I assume will be easy, out with the old in with the new basically. And the rb will take more work, R32 front front end, ecu, wiring, tail shaft, gearbox, sump, brakes, and a few other things. Has anyone done a rb26 in a 180 in this forum that's can help out with pros vs cons and questions about it? I'd like the car to be clean have a working aircon, reliable, and handle like its on rails. Cheers in advance
  22. so last night my mate had driven his 180 all day, got home then went to go out later that night and she just wouldn't start, would crank fine just wouldn't turn over. we tried jump starting just incase the battery didn't have enough juice, could hear the fuel pump priming fine, tried hitting the starter motor. then after tried to roll start it, after we roll started it it would start up but then just die slowly writhin 5 seconds, he's replaced the CAS and still no luck. initial thought would be that it could be spark alothough reading a bit says spark shouldn't stop it starting unless it's a bit problem so any ideas??
  23. I have a set of Kouki rear valances with center piece. The center piece has a crack in it as you can see in the photo. Other than that all is in good condition. Asking $280 shipped. Items ship from Japan.
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