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About wombatau

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General Info

  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
  1. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    I use VHT Satin Black Wheel Paint. It's a polyurethane paint which is temperature and scratch resistant. It's not scratch proof, but it's as good as any 2k hardened paint And cheap and easy (my two favourite things).
  2. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    I use VHT Wheel Paint for almost everything hot that I know won't get much higher than 130 deg C (pretty much everything except calipers, exhaust and block, but fine for rocker cover). The advantage of using the VHT Wheel Paint is that you do not need to cure the paint. With high temp paints Ike engine enamels they need to be cured or baked at a certain tempature for a certain amount of time - otherwise they can break down, and may flake or peel. I usually scrub with a brush using an aggressive degreaser like Kenco Heavy Duty, then detergent scrub, 360 grit wet sand scuff, wax and grease remove with a cloth, let dry for a moment, then dust on a light coat, going over with heavier coats after flash. Easy peazy, and looks awesome. I'll attach a pic of an engine bay I painted using VHT Satin Black Wheel Paint. The car is a work in progress drift car, so please excuse how daggy it looks otherwise.
  3. If anyone's keen to receive the updates on it from me, just send me a PM and I'll keep you privately in the loop. Cheers.
  4. You can't get an image of the binary from a chip installed into a ca18 unless you actually load the chip into a dedicated reader outside of the ecu, as the ca18 doesn't have the facility for Nissan Consult diagnostics interface to read the image. You can with the SR though no probes at all, I imaged a Zero Sports chip once for my old GTi-R and loaded it and modified it to become an E85 map with a tiny bit of tweaking. Yep, you never know when you buy mystery chips - they could be bunk, they could be good, they could be just a rip of a modified Jap ecu designed for 100 Ron fuel even which would be useless still even without being bunk (unless you plan on running 100+ all the time). Tuning for a maxed out meter can be done but yeah it's better to have the resolution so you're not stuck at only one boost setting. I've no prob tuning to the limit of the standard fuel system whilst maxing out the afm so long as it's me who's doing the tuning and I know exactly what I can and cannot do with it later on the road. Mystery maps are another story, and I would always strap it to the rollers if I was experimenting. I have no problems with testing an eBay chip side by side to the standard ecu with just a high gain reg for my $1600 silvia, but I know what I'm doing, so I have no problems with it and I understand how to read what's going on. Even a cheap car I don't give two squats about though I would still put on the dyno. Time is cheap, you can do a 15psi tune in just a couple of pulls easy. Nistune is the best. Not sure I would bother for a CA because of how much fit out you need to do with the older type 1 ecus, but if I had another SR then of course I would without even hesitating. Type 3 is a piece of cake. Plus I have a legit Nistune license for as many cars as I want and the consult cable (useless for the CA) already anyway which saves a fair amount of coin. Actually that sounds Iike fun, I'll do a side by side comparison for you guys and post it up, including the exact dealer's information and my modifications list at the time of tuning. Not ready yet, but will be in a position to do it in a few weeks or so. Just a little short on cash and having some piping issues right now cause of my custom manifold / T25G combo. I'll get back to you all, promise I won't forget
  5. HELP (EPA'd)

    Yes, not too good for boost, they are basically a potato in the exhaust pipe - brilliant for noise reduction though It's cool to hear that lots of aftermarket exhaust makers include them - I thought my exhaust maker just included it for the US market or something, I honestly had no idea it was the norm. I'm a bit vacant sometimes lol. That's also good info to know that the EPA can have you weld them in, I will keep that in mind in case I have the bright idea to bung one into an expensive Titanium muffler or something. I wouldn't mind too much if they welded mine into a stainless exhaust or something personally, as it's nothing you couldn't fix with a little patience and a grinder Easier and quicker than changing the entire exhaust that's for sure Bloody exhaust systems... they never line back up the second time round...
  6. the Black Engine Bay Masters!

    BIG respect, that is nicely done. The black satin is a nice touch - it's like your engine is wearing a thousand dollar Armani suit
  7. HELP (EPA'd)

    Here are a couple of pictures of my restrictor (which can be conveniently inserted and removed again in case of noise issues): http://img859.images...s/i/photog.jpg/ http://img146.images...i/photo2qx.jpg/ My exhaust is minimum 3" stainless all the way from the turbo back. It's nice and loud. With the restrictor, it sounds almost like a standard car. Edit: Also, if anyone else is interested, I can post the dimensions of it so you can design your own removable restrictors to combat the EPA's noise problems. And yes, I did spray it satin black so it looked like it had always been there
  8. HELP (EPA'd)

    You could always have a removable restrictor bolted into your exhaust, that would quieten it down. I brought a 3" stainless exhaust with a restrictor of 1.25" in it from factory. Just imagine a 20cm long 1.25" diameter pipe welded into a 4" cone which was shoved down the guts of the cannon, 1.25" pipe end in. Was absolutely brilliant, as quiet as a factory exhaust almost. Crap for power though haha. I can lend you mine if you have a 4" outlet cannon exhaust so long as you promise to return it to me, or you can get a local exhaust shop to make one up for you. I'm sure they'd sympathize with your situation
  9. losing licence question

    Best to cop it sweet. Many mates of mine have gone the noisy path and ended up looking like doodles. It's just the way it is, it sucks but shit happens. In saying that, you watch, I'll get busted doing 10 over in a 60 zone tomorrow or something. And then it'll probably end up being a school zone and they'll pin me for that, defect my daily driver for having a loud sound system and slightly bald tyres... Shit happens and it always smells when you happen to accidentally tread in it
  10. black 180SX,needs new paint

    Probably $500 or so of your roof is straight and you get to know the blokes.
  11. black 180SX,needs new paint

    If you're not up to painting it yourself, and don't have a lot of cash, then I'd get to know the blokes at the local panel shop and see if you couldn't work out some kind of deal where they do the car in sections for you, so you pay a few hundred at a time until it's all fixed. Or just whack a respray on the credit card. The reason I say that is it's the prep that's the killer on black cars. If you even so much as don't sand your primer right it'll stick out like dog's balls. Of course, if you're into the dorifto style, only care if it's mostly straight, and have enough experience spraying then you could always make the most of that black base and put a nice candy pearl over it. It'd cost you absolutely sweet FA and so long as you can paint alright, it'll look the business. Check out www.paintwithpearl.com to see what I mean. He's in the USA but he ships pretty quick, I've ordered from him plenty of times. You can do a nice single stage candy job with a candy pearl pigment for like $300 if you do it yourself. Besides, black is a bastard to get right as the car has to be almost perfectly straight.
  12. Wide body kit help!

    Antony, post up the quotes and what gear they will provide when you find out. I have a carbon fibre / glass fibre manufacturing contact in China from when I used to be in business. I might be able to hook you up as I'm considering a kit myself and need an excuse to pay for the container.
  13. does this look right

    Is the actuator rod connected? (the stick that comes out of the can thing bolted to the side of the turbo) If so, does it have an adjustment thread on it? Can you take more pics of the turbo? Edit: Sorry, I'm tired, I didn't acknowledge that you'd already mentioned it's adjustable Just adjust it so it holds the flap shut firmly. Don't go too nuts though. Adjust it using a regulated low pressure air feed until it starts to open at roughly 6 to 7 pounds. Or, do it the dodgy way and adjust it till it's hand tight closed, and adjust it again with no boost controller on the road in 3rd. Wait till the car cools down of course Also, only give it like 1 turn until you get close, then proceed in half turns. They can be touchy bastards.
  14. Early S13 Acrylic or 2 pak?

    I just gathered them up from downstairs, they are actually 500ml each, so sorry for the misinformation there, but still plenty to do a bumper or a couple of panels. They are Concept UniCryl 3000, will make 2.5L mixed with thinners. I'm south of Sydney, about 3hrs actually, so I'll look into shipping options for you. Plenty of couriers are cool to carry paints. I brought them to do a quick and nasty spray, tune and flog off of an S13 with CA18 that I brought for $1600 lol. I ended up deciding to strip it down and do it properly. It's currently taking up space in my garage lol damn bug for modifying cars...
  15. electric supercharging ?

    Haha look at the dyno slip they provide on the page - the tuner's notes say "pooper charged". I bet they were laughing their arses off when the guy didn't notice that one slip by. There is merit though to those "real" ones like the Autospeed article outlines. If you want to do the math, which is: Power (Watts) = Voltage x Amps 12v x 350 = 4200w = 4.2kw actual power draw. I would say that's probably on par with the amount of power a traditional supercharger would draw from the crank, maybe a tiny bit more cause of the losses in efficiency due to converting motive energy into electrical energy and then back again lol. As for the eBay one, yep, the pooper charger belongs only under the bonnet of Excels with full sick cold air intakes and a cannon. Chirp. Faaaarrrtt. Faaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrt.