Jump to content


Platinum Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About RyanJ

  • Rank
    w00t styler
  • Birthday 12/09/1980

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • Website URL

General Info

  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Interests
    Pop culture, food & booze.
  • Car Model
    Black '91 sr20det 180sx
  • Occupation
    IT Contractor
  1. I like the McDonalds at Coolangatta.

    Where's my rims biaaaaartch

    Click the link you spastic. USD$12.00 Genuine HKS. Probably more like $50 here in Australia because this country is SHIT when it comes to buying brand name car parts. How it works: you remove the little 3-spoke ring and put this there instead. Since the 3-spoke ring is what makes the "chirp", you lose that with the plumback adapter.

    The HKS website would be a good place to look wouldn't it? http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=798
  5. No your question isn't stupid. Yes you can use the auto ECU with the manual conversion, heaps of people do. The PFC will work fine with your converted manual, you ditch the stock ECU altogether so it doesn't matter. The loom plug is the same, no re-wiring required. We were laughing at the first reply to your question, the guy is off the f*cking planet talking about s13 injectors, GTi-R injectors and s15 injectors, first he says they are different then he says he doesn't know. That's why you shouldn't use crack, kids.
  6. Power fc's for an S14A

    Whoever told you that is a muppet. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79279
  7. LOL I want some of the drugs this guy is on.
  8. What are my injectors?

    IIRC mine were green, 370cc. Could be wrong though, I have 550's now.
  9. Power FC on a Auto...

    You can if you change to a full manual valvebody, but then you will have to select gears manually. As stated the PFC does not encompass auto shift logic.
  10. OK thanks for the input _omg + others. dabrowski, the reason mine is off is pretty much to ventilate the coilpacks. AFAIK redtop sr coils (or any sr coil) don't have many issues with overheating but any ventilation is a plus.
  11. Heh yeah thats even dodgier than something I would do. The coil pack cover is not on at all at the moment but I might do what you suggested with some cut to shape rubber in place of folded paper until I can be arsed fixing it.
  12. I just changed my plugs and when tightening the coil pack bolt it snapped, so the coil pack is now just sitting there not bolted down. I will have to call the stud removal bloke, but is it OK to drive like this in the meantime? Worst I can see is the coil pack pops off and I pull over and pop it back on.
  13. gtir VS s14

    I thought the s-series t28's were all steel wheeled. GTi-R t28 is supposed to be a lot tougher than the s14/s15 one due the 360 degree thrust bearing, so could handle more boost. I have a GTi-R t28 and I pulled 163.5 rwkW on 11.5psi without cams, and a rough tune, dyno dynamics shootout mode. With 16psi, and a proper tune I should crack about 200. I'm thinking of buying a similar sized Garrett turbo since they are so cheap, and the technology has had a few improvements since 1991.
  14. It doesn't happen any more, I fixed it. Wiring in a 1M Ohm resistor into the knock sensor wire to the ECU will stop the sluggish behaviour. Just go to Jaycar and ask the dude for a 1 million Ohm, 1 watt resistor, then wire it in to the knock sensor wire from the ECU. Fixing the cause of the problem is a different story - good luck with that one.
  15. I had exactly this problem, to the letter. The ECU is detecting knock and going into a limp mode as you've guessed. You won't get a fault code because they are only generated under open or closed circuit (i.e. if you take the knock sensor out all together you'll get a fault code), not if the knock sensor is operating normally. I switched knock sensor with a mate, and still get the same thing (my knock sensor doesn't produce a fault on his engine) so the sensor itself is not faulty. The sensor detects a particular frequency of vibration. Knock produces this frequency, but unfortunately so can a number of other things - a rattle in your engine bay, worn parts, etc. Your engine could genuinely be knocking , but I don't think this was the case in my situation. The way I got around the problem was to wire in a 1M Ohm resistor in the wire from the sensor to the ECU, and the problem went away straight away. If you search this has been covered before.