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Wizard last won the day on May 21 2017

Wizard had the most liked content!

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About Wizard

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    Fat viking

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  • Location
    Australia NSW
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  1. Multiple SR20 parts

    TuneAgent SR20 3” down pipe – NEW $250
  2. Motul Gear, Transmission and Hydraulic oils

    There is a specified amount, but you'll never drain out 100% of the oil fluid, so filling until it spills out of the filler hole is equivalent to putting in a measured amount.
  3. Suspension.

    Yes If you adjust camber, it puts toe out If you adjust toe, it puts camber out
  4. Suspension.

    Yeah, start of the year I overhauled everything. Still have a shit gearbox that pops out of 2nd, but now have GTR rear end and new rear bearings (again). Was really good til I noticed that the subframe is fucked from the shop around the corner stretching all the subframe bush holes to get the old bushes out... and all the LCA are furiously rusting where they've heated the fuck out of them to get the old bushes out with a tiny press. sigh. But the hardrace stuff works good for cheap china crap. Bushes FTW
  5. Suspension.

    ^ ball joints are a service item and should be replaced every 20,000km or something like that. That was the biggest source my front end clunks over bumps. That an my rooted subframe bushes. Start of the year I threw in hardrace castor, toe and camber arms, new LCA bushes/ball joints, new subframe bushes, in order to get an actual wheel alignment. Still running BC BR coilovers. My car isn't slammed, but it's not entirely sensible either. It's the nicest combination I've had in a Silvia on the road. The bushed arms really add a level of compliance I'm not used to in a Silvia. the car just takes bumps in its stride, even when you're attacking flat out
  6. Suspension.

    No complaints with hardrace rubber bushed arms, aside from them rusting at my beach side palatial home. Gktech are normal china crap with an australian price tag. Honestly, retaining bushes is the biggest difference between having a nice car and a noisy, jittery, clunky piece of shit. That, and replacing all ball joints, because they are a service item and probably only get done when they are broken, not when they are due for replacing. Start of the year I replaced every bush and ball joint, new rubber everywhere. Car is the fastest on the road its ever been, and it's actually nice to be in, despite having cheap BC coilovers.
  7. R200 diff identification

    You'll do much better with a picture than stamps
  8. S13 sr20det problems!

    This as well. There is enough adjustment in the CAS for it to barely run, or to ping on full throttle. It needs to be set correctly.
  9. S13 sr20det problems!

    All Nissans run at 43.5 PSI at idle, or 2.9 bar.
  10. CA18DET Cams options

    GTX are laggier than the same sized GT turbo, and only seem to come to life at higher boost. GTX2860 will be as laggy as a 2871, but will out power the 2871, especially if E85 is involved.
  11. CA18DET Cams options

    2871 is way too big for that power goal. 2860 will be good enough for 230 on 98. Poncams will open up the rev limit a bit, without losing too much bottom end. For a small power goal, smaller cams are better. Honestly a T28 BB would do 200, and cams would let it do it on less boost. Anything bigger will not have "very quick spool".
  12. My passion!

    Quite the handsome beast! I regret not buying a better shell to start with, back when I had infinite money. Kouki 180 is such a pleasant shape to behold
  13. Comp test says it all. FSM says anything below 128 = rebuild. Sounds like a super tired motor.
  14. S13 sr20det problems!

    This ! Do a boost leak test. Your mate who's a mechanic is a dumb cunt
  15. Microtech LT8 on CA18DET - t_gap?

    If there is a rotary specific setting, it's probably the timing between the main plugs and trailing plug from firing. If it is set up for a rotary, then based on what protius says, it wont run the CA.