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PWND

Platinum Member
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About PWND

  • Rank
    Silver Member
  • Birthday 11/08/1981

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

General Info

  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Skyline
  • Car Model
    R32
  1. getting a car engineered under NCOP?

    it hasn't changed a huge amount just has gotten more specific. only big change from before NCOP would be roll cage, but if you are going for a half cage you should have no dramas
  2. Yeah, having a look at s14's, as they are going for almost identical money as s13's, but there are not a lot of nice examples out there at this stage. We'll see how it looks early next year. I feel like I am repeating myself at this stage but anyways, the purpose of the car is for my to do some track days in it, and I have already previously stated my reasons for wishing the car to be road registered. Stripping it is one of the cheapest, most cost effective ways in my experience of modifying the car. Furthermore, having a proper weld in cage, seats and harnesses is important to me, as being a father of two, my safety is of improtance to me. Hence, along with suspension, brakes and rubber, I plan on doing this first. I see far more benefits of having a clear goal in mind before pulling the pin, than letting the car "evolve". I have used your approach previously and have found it can be a coslty exercise. Cheers. That's essentially what I was trying to achieve here. Get people's opinions and hopefully hear from some others that have learned from experience. I have a pretty good idea already of what I most likely will go ahead with doing, but was using this to see if there was any further information that could sway me in one direction or another. I was aiming for something along these lines. Even though I am still tossing up the 1970's escort, as a nice restored, ready to paint shell has come up in Adelaide that I am contemplating flying out to have a look at. This would unfortunately mean that I would probably not have a fun car to drive for at least 12 odd months, but at least it would give me something constructive, therapeutic to play with in my spare time.
  3. BEER!

    German Club across from the Gabba. Cheap meals, decent priced German Beer both on tap and by the bottle. Fantastic. Plus, because I am getting old, I like the atmosphere. Relaxed with plenty of seats and not too loud to talk
  4. 32 had a constant string of issues that as the funds dried up due to having kids, were harder and harder to keep on top of also, due to the sunroof, if I was wearing my helmet, I had to have my head at a slight angle to fit into the car, which further resulted in my head constantly rattling against the sunroof rails whilst driving. I really did not want to have an incident with my head that close to the rails Regardless, as I stated at the beginning, I am looking to plan the next project a bit better from the beginning, as opposed to just finding a cheap car and going from there.
  5. I could easily get rid of all interior plastics, rear seats etc. I was just wondering whether it is able to get mod plates for removing air bags, demisters etc, or ways around it, like heated windscreens etc. In terms of stretching the budget and buying something quicker for the money, I can't really think of much else than an s15 that has the aftermarket support and performance. I don't want to go awd, so evo's and rex's are out, as I like RWD for a bit of fun. I am open to suggestions though Trying to avoid tow car and trailer as I would like to be able to drive the car to track days, as well as cruises and show and shines etc if time permits. comfort is not really high on the list. Had the 32 for a few years and loved the raw quality of the car once I do pick something, which will be between march and june, as I am away in asia and US for Jan and Feb My mate that will be helping me with a lot of the build, as he has worked for Sirromet Racing and Dick Johnson Racing for nearly ten years, was suggesting the same thing. Both my current cars are not really suited to towing a car, and they are both still have two years remaining on their leases. And quite often I feel like going for a evening drive out to Tamborine etc, as I usually have a fair bit on weekends with my business, and late evenings once the kids are asleep are my few hours I do get to myself, so if it's a pure track car it may not see the track for months at a time. I should have been clearer. Car is purely a toy. My previous weekend car was stripped and I absolutely loved it. No stereo, no sound deadening etc, just pure car noise. Loved it. The reason I was suggesting older cars is that they came with less features, so I would be able to get them to a lower weight whilst still having the car road legal. Don't be so quick to discount escorts. Large ammount of parts for them both in Europe, and to an lesser ammount here, low curb weight and will comfortably fit an sr20 into it. Also, due to them weighing around the 750kg mark, an sr could produce a comfortable and safe 200 odd rwkw and have it moving at quite a pace. Lastly, I find them quite good looking if done right
  6. 32 had to go to cover bills etc. plus it had a sunroof and a bit of rust in the rear guards and under one side skirt, as I found out once I started stripping it. Doing a bit better financially now so keen for another crack and want to do it properly. Suspension, brakes and tyres first.
  7. Hi, I thought I would see if I can get some advice on here before I start pouring cash into the black hole that is called car modifying. Some of you may have seen my previous car, which I recently sold off in parts. Link is bellow for those interested http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=301473&hl=&fromsearch=1 This car was my first foray into serious car modifying and was an absolute money pit. A lot of this spending could have been avoided as I did little work by myself and also did half assed upgrades, which then required re-upgrading etc. Also, I went about it the wrong way, in my opinion, which involved spending a lot of money on getting power out of it, and adding suspension, brakes, wheels that fit and tyres as an afterthought. So my plan now is to try and do things right from the beginning. What I am after ideally is a track specific car that is still registered. The registration is not for wank facor of street racing or anything similar, I just want the flexibility of being able to drive the car to wherever, whenever I wish. But, I also want the car to be street legal in QLD, which obviously makes things trickier. So the questions I do have are around what platform to start with, as the ultimate goal will be to strip the car of all unnecessary weight and try to make it go as fast as possible. What I would like to know are some of the finer points of what I can do. Such as what I am able to strip out. My plan was to look at an S chassis car, preferrably an s15, as I like the shape, they weigh in mid 1200kgs, and have a huge ammount of after market parts available. Furthermore, there are pretty decent examples going for around 15k. What I need to know is, what can I get rid of? Do I need to retain the factory airbags? Demister? Sun visors? Padded steering wheel? ETC. Is there a way of getting mod plates to eliminate some of these things. My plan for the car once I get it is to strip it entirely, all carpets, plastics etc, and have a cage welded in. Buy coilovers and some adjustable arms, a radiator and some brakes/pads and decent tyres have a go at getting some laptime under my belt from there. I would look at power upgrades much further down the track, once I was comfortable with the car. Several other options I have been thinking about is to start with an s13, but due to the age, money required to get 5 stud, s14 or 15 rear cradle etc, I though I am better off with a newer car. The benefit of the s13 though would be if I have to retain factory airbags etc in the s15 for RWC purposes, as the s13 did not come with them factory. Another option I have been looking at are mx5's, as they are cheap and handle well, and even 1970's ford escorts, as I love the shape and have seen a few cars go for reasonable money. Suggestions, feedback is appreciated. So basically I am just looking for some input before I decide what to bite the bullet on and purchase a car, as my last purchase, the 32, I regreted a few things once I got modifying, such as the sunroof which eliminated head room and created extra weigth. I don't want to spend a bit of money on the s15, only to find out further down the track that I was better off with a cheaper s13.
  8. Price : $50 Condition : Used Have decided to part my car instead of selling it whole. Car is all together at the moment, but am planning on pulling the parts off this weekend and the next weekend. Can still inspect working car if need be. If you would like me to hold any items until I pull them off the car a 10% deposit is needed. I will endeavour to post as many pics as I can over the next following few days, but please let me know if there are any requests. Car and all parts are located in Brisbane Southside, and pm is the best way to contact me at this stage. Garrett GT35R 0.83ex, stainless steel manifold, turbosmart 48mm pro gate and full exhaust. Basically whole turbo setup on the hot side. Custom made dump with gate plumbed back in. Made an easy 380rwhp at 16psi on my car. - $2500 Am happy to do a 10% discount if somebody wants to buy the whole turbo, manifold, greddy manifold and intercooler setup,blow off valve as the whole setup would bolt on without issues and would require no custom piping Greddy Plenum with stock throttle body adapter and throtle body - $800 Sard RB25Det 550cc side feed injectors - $500 Splitfires to suit RB25 and I think RB26? - $400 Trust Greddy type R blow off valve - $200 Alloy radiator $150 Hybrid intercooler with some piping - $200 Apexi Pod $50 Nismo Oil Cap - $50 Nismo gear knob - $60 z32 afm - $200 RB25DET Engine no turbo, coils or injectors. Regularly serviced. - $1000 Gab height and damper adjustable Coilovers $600 Adjustable Rear upper Arms and traction rods $100 pair R33 Front LCAs $100 Nismo Castor Rods $100 R33 front callipers, rotors and pads - $300 Front Strut brace - $80 RB25 Gearbox and Cusco Single Plate clutch $1500 Single piece tailshaft to suit RB25 R32 - $200 Eboost - $300 RB25 PowerFC no hand controller $700 R32 GTR front bar with N1 vents - $600 R32 GTR bonnet with Aerocatch pins $600 R32 GTR front reo - $300 R32 Cusco Full Cage and padding - $800 Bride Recliner Drivers seat with bride rail - $400 R32 Gtr passenger seat - $200 R32 Dash - $200 R32 smoked indicators $100 R32 brick headlights - $300 R32 spoilerless boot - $200 R32 non rolling Shell. Is still registered, but obviously sold de-registered and will come with mod plates for rb25 conversion, gearbox, cage and turbo. Will take offers depending on what's left on the shell. Advan 18x9.5 +22 and +38 with minimal tread $600 S1 3P Workmeister 18x10 +30 with 225's and 235's $2500 Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator - $100 RB25 Oil cooler and remote filter kit (never fitted it, but pretty sure all the correct lines should be there) - $200
  9. 400rwhp RB25 R32

    Car is now for sale - 12k
  10. As soon as money permits. Had planned on getting them at the start of the year, because I want to run fatter rubber on the back. With the 225's on the back currently, I lose traction in fourth if I floor it on the highway. That was also the reason for dialing the camber out to 1.5. Unfortunately, with newly born twins, and this being the weekender, it's very far down the priority list. And when I finally do get some spare money to spend on it, it's usually just basic maintenance.
  11. 400rwhp RB25 R32

    Meisters are 18x10 +30 all round Can't remember the camber on the front of the top of my head, but have dialed out camber on the back to 1.5 degrees, but will need to masage the guards out a bit now as they scrub a fair bit, and I want to fit fatter tyres than the existing 225's on there. As it stands, the car steps out in fourth gear if I floor it, so really need traction. Some more recent pics
  12. Issues with my series 8

    the natural state for a rotary is to be broken stop defying nature and let it die
  13. Defect Woes

    Did you not read any of the original post? Posting for the sake of having your opinion heard, even though it's misguided? He has to wait for two months before he is allowed to prove that the car is rwc and in the meantime is not allowed to drive his car.
  14. Defect Woes

    How was there a loophole? Whether your car is defected or has to be re-registered, a rwc is a rwc People would get the car de-registered which would nullify the need of having to take the car for a dot inspection, obtain a dodgy rwc and re-register the car without having the car inspected by dot People would get the car de-registered which would nullify the need of having to take the car for a dot inspection, obtain a dodgy rwc and re-register the car without having the car inspected by dot
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