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-LCD-

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Everything posted by -LCD-

  1. Brake pad selection

    the new qfm extreme sportz with dba t3 rotors went well right off the start for me, fairly stock r34 (wheels/tyres, coilovers, exhaust, boost tee).done a couple of track days now and steel super confident, good low temp bite
  2. My passion!

    new wheels look sick (Y)
  3. AJ Body Kits

    purely for the sake of posting on this forum for the first time in years; never used them, are you looking for a panel shop or body kits?
  4. selling my drift teks coz they dont suit my r33. literally bolted them on, drove around for a week and took them off. bought them brand new front specs: 17 x 9" +18 5x114.3 BCD cheng shen tyres (2000kms old) 215/40/17 rear specs: 17 x 9.5" +18 5x114.3 BCD scrap yard tyres 215/40/17 (need replacing) $1000neg located ashburton, east side melbourne. test fits welcome. best contact; 0412390926. i dont go on here much these days so best to get me on my mobile! -dan
  5. Bucket seats

    The factory trails are integrated to the seats so pics or it didn't happen Wrx seats are shit btw. Rule of thumb don't put sedan seats into a coupe... -Dan
  6. Fabrication Pics Thread

    Also super laggy! Similar setup in the porsche and lambos are sweet though. -Dan
  7. r33 rack into s13

    yes, that rings a bell now about the variable 'weight' steering. i think a friend had this issue and fixed it. i'll get back to you... -dan
  8. you also need bigger injectors, better/e85 compatable pump, all of which cost more money....the funny thing is lpg is cheaper and has a higher and more consistent octane rating. food for thought -dan
  9. E85 will make more power on the same boost, comp etc... Just uses more fuel to make it, and runs a lot cooler, but also does allow for higher boost etc as well Definition, if you need more of something to have the same result it is less efficient. E85 has less energy (specific heat) then petrol so you need more of it to make the same power. another way to think of it; if you had the same tune and did back to back test with e85 and 98ron (that is, the same amount of fuel being used for the same boost etc etc). The 98ron fuel would make more power. what I mean by e85 'allows' you to make more power, by running more timing and higher boost/compression safer. However this is at the expense of fuel consumption. Fuels like c16 etc make more power...
  10. clutch issues

    Don't worry about the line. Bleed the clutch, and start worrying about the noise your box is making. Lol -Dan
  11. clutch issues

    Did you bleed the clutch system when you installed the new parts? What noises are you hearing? -Dan
  12. r33 rack into s13

    Silly question maybe, but did you bleed the system correctly? What power steering fluid are you using? The rack shouldn't need any wiring to change the 'feel' afaik that solenoid is for the electric 4ws system in the r33's -Dan
  13. question you should be asking yourself is why you want to go e85? e85 doesnt make more power, it allows for more power safely. so you can run higher comp/more boost with lower heat and less chance of pre detonation and over heating etc. for a 250kw sr20 you'll be maxing the efficiency of the turbo regardless of what fuel you run. this is just my understanding and two cents. i dont run e85 (dont plan on it either), so best off to hear those those who do...but i would reconsider your expectations/go talk your tuner. -dan
  14. S13 motor into s14

    technically speaking its illegal to install an engine into a car that later then the bodies build date. though i doubt most would pick up on it... otherwise is the same as putting a s14 engine into a s13 but in reverse. ecu, loom, and a few body plugs need swapping. -dan
  15. Flared guard advice

    put it this way, hammer and dolley (and lots of practice) will let you flare a guard ANY way you want. sharp wide flares or smoother 'pumped' gaurds its up to what you want and your skills. hammer, very hard to get a smooth finish, will need bog to have a nice smooth finish. and hence paint, prep work etc. guard roller, pretty much guaranteed to have a smooth finish, can lip, pump, flare the guards to varying degrees. but takes some skill you have them look good without any extra work (bog) when you start out, so some practice is required to learn the better methods to get the results you want. pipe, full of shit IMO, super dependent on the wheels , ride height etc as to the degree of the flare. guaranteed to f**k with the inner lip of the guard, paint etc. small thing i'll point out, make sure you clean the inside the guard lip REALLY well, because when you squash that guard lip up to flare the guards any dirt and stones in there will be stuck for good, and most likely try and punch through the outer guard.... -dan
  16. shit apprentices say/do

    i mostly just hate it when they question something i tell them to do/how to do it (im the same way, which is probably why it shits me so much ). or when they tell you they have finished a job i pull the old " are you sure?, checked it over, nothing you missed?", usually get the confident "yep, all checked". meanwhile i walk over and the first thing i go to check is wrong and make them check it all over again... do enjoy giving them all nick names; proby newbie spooner terase worky etc... -dan
  17. i wouldnt recommend shutting down a hot engine unless theres no ready way to cool it down...anyway... with a good coolant system (not shitty old hoses, cap, rad, thermostat etc) 100 you start keeping an eye on it/ consider backing off. 110 you back off. but depends on the conditions your driving in. hot/cold day, etc. this is for water BTW. as far as oil, depends on the oil you run, even down to what fuel your using (e85 will contaminate the oil differently to petrol). but i wouldnt like to see it over 100. as i said i ran a 13 row on my turbo sr20 s13. it was making close to 200rwKW, boosted t28, inbay etc. with a stock radiator i did have some over heating issues on some track days but that was due to the conditions being very hot etc. by the end of a matsuri weekend in 30+ temps. the oil was still looking fresh not burnt, car was running mint as usual, and the temp gage was spiking probably every 4ish laps then i would do a cool down lap then more skids. i drove the car up, drifted two days, drove home. 13 row did the trick. its a budget thing. best setup will ALWAYS be a larger core and thermostat, but a small core with make a difference to the oil lasting longer/rest of the engine staying healthy as result. -dan
  18. Stripped Bolt hole on block

    dont drill it if your not sure. clean and fill the hole then start again by drilling, tapping, and heli coil a new thread. there is usually only bad things that come from taking the 'easy' way out with these kinds of things -dan
  19. The only way it would ever be a bad thing is if; A) you had a massive cooler with no thermostat, then the oil could be running too cold. Easy fix run a smaller core, or Hey a thermostat. B ) you cheaped out and got a shifty core/fittings/installed something wrong and you had oil feed/pressure issues. Buy from a reputable seller/brand. Install it correctly, ask if your not sure, or get someone who knows what they are doing to do it. And once its done check for leaks as it's warming up, test drive and check for leaks again... So in closing, get one. I ran a 13 row in direct airflow with no thermostat was perfect (car was driven hard both track and Street). -dan
  20. Rear Control Arm

    i have a pair you can have for free if you luck out. im east side too. -dan
  21. Stripped Bolt hole on block

    Heli-coil is tapped one thread size bigger. factory bolt is 10mm head (6mm thread) so you may as well fix it so its back to spec. But if you ruined the thread with the 12mm head (8mm thread) and just want it fixed then you can tap it out and put a 8mm heli-coil in. -Dan
  22. Stripped Bolt hole on block

    put the power tools down and walk the f**k away! haha. heli-coil is your number one 'go to fix', but when you have already gone from a 10mm to a 12mm thread you going to have to fill that sucker up and then drill and tap it again (i personally would still put a heli-coil in there as its stronger then just tapping a new thread). also reference pics never go astray. (or nudes) -dan
  23. S14 Front Pipe

    well as far as making a product for 'the general public' the more general it is the wider the market. so by making it able to bolt up to the stock dump position it will also fit any after market dump pipe. so basically anyone with a sr and a stock mounted turbo can run it...that or make a one piece dump+front pipe (my favourite style) gets rid of a lot of issues. -dan
  24. S14 Front Pipe

    That looks like a 2 bolt flange at the dump pipe end. Standard runs a 3 bolt which means you'll need a custom dump pipe aswell. Good for a full custom system, but means you couldn't just make a bunch for people. Also moar pics -Dan
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