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JoeyTA22

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About JoeyTA22

  • Rank
    Standard Member

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    RA23, R32GTR & 180sx
  1. 1999 Nissan 180sx - $5,000

    Make : NISSAN 180SX Transmission : Manual Kilometres : 140000 Price : $5,000 Condition : Used Hey guys, I'm putting my trusty drift rig up for sale to fund a new project. 180sx SR20DET I re-shelled my old car into this one, so checked that the chassis was completely straight and used the best parts of both cars. The body is a bit rough on the outside, I focused more on the performance of the car rather than looks. Despite its appearance it's been very well cared for, always serviced after an event and only royal purple synthetic oil used. Fibreglass front fenders (few cracks) Plexiglass rear quarter windows Aftermarket unknown kit (front bar included in sale but not shown) Cams spec bolt in half cage. Blacktop non vct SR20det Greddy intercooler and custom piping Pod filter & z32 afm Sard 550cc injectors Gktech RAS installed Splitfire coils New Walbro 244lph fuel pump Blitz dual sbc boost controller Nistune ecu Braided turbo oil and coolant lines T25 turbo 3 inch custom dump and straight exhaust system Nismo 62degree thermostat Asi aluminium radiator Silicon hoses throughout Oil filter relocation kit with braided lines and external oil cooler Speco electric oil pressure, oil temp and water temp gauges installed. Front and rear strut braces Z32 gearbox conversion with short shifter and 4 drift day old exedy cushion button clutch Jdi welded skyine diff with 4.1 diff gears and r33 halfshafts Adjustable HSD coilovers (front camber adjustable tops) S14 rack NP wonder spec spacers to both sides Tien tie rods and rod ends NP custom knuckles KKR adjustable castor arms Cut/shut/braced 20mm extended lca's 15mm bolt on spacers at front Solid rear crossmember bushes KKR adjustable rear arms (camber, toe, traction rods) Custom rear hicas eliminator brackets Drivers side fake adjustable bride hardback bucket seat. Passenger standard seat Drift button This setup has been extremely reliable and a good setup for someone who wants to get into drifting or upgrading. The car is tuned for a gti-r t28 turbo (largest of the stock turbos) and made a safe 220+kw at the rears after being tuned at chequered tuning. The turbo was swapped at matsuri for a t25 after the 28 blew (had a lot of play from when I first bought it). The car still runs and drives albeit a bit rough in areas because of the tune. Engine is strong and not effected by the turbo. Will come with an extra pair of rims and 2 pairs of new tyres. After 5k ono. Located east side, Melbourne.
  2. Some times gets used

    As simple as getting some tinted clear wrap and then cutting out the design you want once applied over the lights.
  3. No-one heard that sound before?
  4. Hey guys, Every now and again whilst going through the S bend at winton (this is the fastest corner of the track for those who dont know) in my drift car, i get a loud and vibrating metallic whirring sound. I've attached a clip of the last day to give you an idea. It's definantly coming from the rear of the car. The diff was rebuilt/re-shimmed only around 7-8 track days ago (the oil came out clean aswell) and there is no rubbing marks or anything visible from underneath the car. A mate said it might be the rear uni joints on the half shafts that may be worn out and under the heavy load (the sound only happens on this high speed corner) they are making this noise? Does that sound right? Just to confirm it only makes the sound whilst drifting under high speed/load, otherwise no sounds at all.
  5. VicDrift Practice Day - November 2011

    White bunky 180sx, class A car no. 84.
  6. VicDrift Practice Day - November 2011

    Had a blast and the event was run very well as per usual. I found it upon myself to test out the tyre stack and main straight walls structual capacity Tyre stack hit was first lap of the day cold tyre understeer, wall tap was a classic *swearing filters own me* up. But this is why you have a purpose built drift car! Bash it all straight again and keep going!
  7. what oil to use in a rb25 gearbox for drift use

    Ive been using Amsoil Severe Gear oil from harold at performancelub.com. I had been having problems with the shockproof frothing too much and constantly coming out the breather, could have possibly been a bad batch (came with the car freshly installed from previous owner) but i know of alot of others that have this problem with shockproof aswell.
  8. A late but big thanks to Big Steve and Little Steve on the start line, did a great job and fried out there like little frankfurts throughout the day. Flow in the expression session was awesome
  9. I would be tipping the fuel filter is fubar and blocking the engine of fuel. Before buying a whole new pump i would just flush the tank of the old fuel, put a new fuel filter in, fill the tank with about $10 worth of petrol and see if it starts pumping fuel; its cheap and will give you a definant answer if its the pump.
  10. The modified/ aftermarket knuckle thread

    Did it have a plate welded to the underside of the lca where it was notched?
  11. Is there a requirement for car presentation like adgp? I hope not So keen to get out there!
  12. Tyre Review thread.

    Evo's are f'ing shizen for the front, i had exactly the same problem changing from a semi ok tyre to evo's, car understeered everywhere even after playing with pressures. They were brand new, ended up using them on the rears which actually felt really nice Running RS-R's on the front atm and love them.
  13. Tips on tig welding pipe

    Tried the local welding supplier, never heard of it. It's just a heat-proof elastic type shield that has been folded into itself yes?
  14. Tips on tig welding pipe

    Any idea where to get one locally?
  15. Hey guys, Having a bit of trouble trying to get the right "hand to work angle" and positioning to allow a steady semi-constant weld on pipe work. At the moment i can only do about maybe a quater at a time if that, then i have to manouver the pipe and/or myself around, which leaves less than desirable start/stop marks on the work. If i try rolling my wrist around my hand becomes too unstable and the electrode makes contact with the work. Any advice or even pics on the correct hand positioning to help keep a steady hand and a nice long weld going.
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