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Everything posted by (Locky)

  1. As I said has a cat, big muffler, small in bay cooler ect. But while building car said I was prepared to give up 10-15kw for it to be legalish. Was a bit disappointing in the number but is a blast to drive as long as not expecting to do roll racing. Super linear and responsive and doesn't run out of puff up top like some of the other smaller turbos ive had. Way better than old kingagawa t518z as felt 10x laggier. Had 2510, 2530, pe1420 as well in the past and this feels about the same in response maybe tiny bit laggier but pulls to redline
  2. For those that are interested finally got my gen 1 GTX2860R tuned S14 motor, E85, Step 1.5 ish cam ( most similar to pro cams) Made 230Kw so nothing crazy at 22psi bleeding down to 18psi. But makes 17 psi at the start of most runs around 3250, and 22 buy about 3600. This is in a car with an airbox, in bay cooler, cat and big muffler. So may make a tad more on more free flowing car but fat power curve perfect for street car, Feels like a t28 that pulls harder
  3. R200 diff identification

    Oh and 4 bolt rear covers that drop down more and look like have larger cooling fins are to give clearance for Hicas ( or lock bar) so if have a hicas rear need that cover
  4. R200 diff identification

    s14/15/r33 bushed front mounts, 2 stud rear hat s13 solid front mount, 4 stud rear cover covers can be swapped over, just have to use the corresponding bolts for what front mount the diff has s13 came both 5 and 6 bolt half shafts, I think s14/15 were all 6 bolt, R33 5 bolt front is probably r33 with a s13 rear cover finding out ratio will give more info the back one is s13, 4.08 is also stock s13 ratio,
  5. S13 sr20det problems!

    also randomly turning you CAs changes timing which can makes car rn like bag of dicks if not set back to correct timing with a light
  6. swap rear housing for 4 bolt R200 rear change the imput flange on diff for silvia 4 bolt one ( rattle gun and all done) swap hubs for GT-R ones half shafts arent exact length but as long as not running drop knuckle should e be and isues
  7. S13 pulling one way

    I was jap all the way for arms, but just did first drive in my new build with Hardrace rubber bushed adjustable arms. as car is street only Fells nice on the street than my 15 with Yananck and cusco arms though it, both of them running softer than the usual 8/6 spring rates ( s13 is 6/4 and s15 was 6/4.5)
  8. It will fit fine as long as you arent running VCT motor
  9. paid for royal purple once and engien hated it , became really tappety quickly Been using nulon 15-50 for years as was one of the first E85 spec oils and ben using it in all my cars, for SR usually dropped it every 2nd track day as at like $50 somehting not dumb expensive so can to shorter change times
  10. RSP13 180sx fuel tank leaks

    mosst likly pinched the O ring or fuel has got on it while installing and it expanded Old 13 did the same after I tried to reuse an old O ring that got soaked in fuel, expanded, then wasnt seating properly and got pinched
  11. Getting AC to work in s13 with DCC

    Have to tried at the Dash plug above the ECU On that I think the blue wire (pin 11 around the middle of the plug) is AC wire
  12. s14 sr20det into s13 body wiring

    no thats people using a s14 engine on s13 lom and ecu.. they just dodge up the VCT. to convert the loom the s13 joins the body loom near the headlights where as s14 under the dash. Need to extend 2 wires to reach ( to do with ECU power) start signal, bridge fuel pump relay or extend that wire ect the conectrots are completly different for under dash connector (J4?) so need to either chop one off a s13 engine loom or cut and join each wire some wires are same soe differnt
  13. s14 sr20det into s13 body wiring

    About 5 wires to get it running Then all the wires in the dash conector for your gauges/ consult port Or buy an expensive conversion loom for a more plug and play solution
  14. THe GTX dont come in a s15 style bolt housing unfortunately so will have to mod your piping. Not to hard to do with silicon joiners to mate up to current piping as done it in the past with an old disco, but this time I was getting custom piping so just had it made to suit
  15. No cant use a stock turbo rear housing, has to be a 2860RS ( disco) or 2871 But can pick up a dead one for 50-100 then super core only 1300ish so stiull a cheap GTX than buying one off the shelf
  16. Rear wheel hubs.

    even autobarn can the bearings in generic replacement part. But the hub part no bearing is genuine nissan way more expensive than the front assembly complete with bearing for some reason. Best bet is to get some 5 stud used hubs and get brand new bearings pushed in $$$ wise My luck with the nbon oem replacments has been hit and miss with big wheels so this car going to go OEM bearing when I redo them all
  17. but if want the cheap turbo will sell the kinagawa for $500 with a dump and braided lines
  18. Kinagawa T518z.... was ok but dog below 4K. literally hated the car but changed to 4.3 diff and e85 made it bearable and only made 230kw (made 245kw on dyno buyt spiked so hard no good besides 4 gear pulls) Have a gen 1 GTX2860R ( seems like I bought the last one in aus). But you buy a super core for 1300 then get a blown disco or 2871 for 50-100 then its 30 min of work to swap rear housing to save a bunch Nearly at point of getting tuned.. hoping for a disco like response ( mid 3K ) with 240ish with 740s on e85 which wil hopefully be a mad street turbo
  19. fit easily suprisingly, dont have car with me atm so dont have good pics, kinda hard to explain but did it with a flat bar and a right angle brackeet. Just need to extend the wires and run the hose still
  20. buy a decent kit like greddy that come with all the bits to move it out of the way Make your own Universal bottle Relocate to passenger side (What I did because I put oil cooler there)
  21. 1996 180sx type X - Wrecking $6K

    but yeah as said abocve the park out value of 10K/6k sale value is very hopeful
  22. And yeah check RHD japan, perfect run and FR sport ... they were all at least $50 cheaper than buying from aus if not more. Just jap are a rip off generally for anything that isnt china
  23. Gaskets are those generic exhaust style ones I dont have a lot of faith in. I always get the pressed metal turbo to dump gaskets from like autobarn for like $15-20 and never had an issue with leak unless the dump came loose. The front to dump can get a multi layer reusable one for about $20 off ebay ect and way better than the generic $5-10 ones (just make sure you get a 2.75in one as surprisingly that's what most aftermarket dump pipes actually are. The 3in bolt pattern is slightly too far out) After fucking around with a few exhaust combos over the years the combo im going with this car is a tad more expensive but should last, not hang low and give a nice note. Tomei dump pipe Moonface racing oval front pipe for heaps of clearance. These are super hard to find but something like the HPI twin front is what I had before so doesnt hang low like most china. Can be picked up 2nd hand for reasonable price 100cell cat and custom cat back made to muffler in stainless Big chunky Jap muffler 2nd hand like Fijibitoso, kakamoto, 5zigen ect can usually be found cheap when rest of cat back is mangled. I managed to pick up a 3in Nismo one for mine, befoer that did the same thing with a kakimoto one and sounded rad Decent gaskets Some parts I already had but could put together something similar for 1k-1250 or so. Its is a bit more comparing to a china turbo back setup, but it wont hang low like all the off the shelf stuff. The chunky jap mufflers that are usually on the more quite exhausts with a mid muffler, but with just the one at the end they give a nice note and not obnoxiously loud
  24. Had the old version tomei dump but ended up putting that on my s15 rather than the the sil80 at the time as s15 china dump on it when i bought it was cracked the whole way around when pulling it all off for new turbo setup during reshell it made sense to get rid of all the china and tomei is amazing compared to half the other jap stuff that is of a more generic design. Mine doesn't foul but sits very close to the aircon drain, may heat wrap it to be safe