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(Locky)

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Everything posted by (Locky)

  1. s14a dori project .....Sil80 reshelling

    Bit of a copy and paste to catch up, so might not make complete sense So yeah went to japan, rad yet way over budget time Didn't take as many pics as last time, as there was a lot more video taken. I know realise I only used my point and shoot one day so mostly out of focus phone pics clifnotes Landed went straight to osaka, met up with a strapping chap from here and someone who we all send lots of emails too about shiny things after some cold calling. Ended up seeing some of the best drifting (well most intense being in passenger seat) ive seen of 3-5 car trains on a wet osaka mountain Went to a meihan day that was pretty busy, Racing line kits and that style are all the rage down there Two mates got to ride with nakamura which sounded pretty crazy. Did a few other bits and peices, headed to Nagoya Went to toyota museum asd saw Cosmo, 240z 432, first Silvia and 2000GT Went to 86 day at suzuka twin but was a bit of a disapointment as was a small day and they stoped drifting while a big storm was on 30min after we got there Nagoya had a lot of cool cars crusing the streets, ended up here one day Was super tempted to buy a rocker cover, but having not been to ebisu yet was concerned on cash levels so passed. Mate bought one for his RB though Got to ebisu. Picked up the 90. It was a bit of a risk buying privatl, but everythign seemed to be as described. Only issues started straight away. 3 laps in blew hose off rad. pulled over and sut it off straight away. Fill and bleed coolant. Next session not great, get hot quick. Go to drive to PV, hose for hydrolic fan pops off covering engine bay,/windscreen in p/s fluid swap that over with another one Still getting hot, re bleed coolant Fan not runnign full speed, unplug temp sensor and speeds up still getting hot swap radiator and re bleed still hot One of the few times im driving it mnanbage to f**k the rear end at school, was either hit the wall with the rear or power and tbone mates car swap thermostat as looked stuck open still hot buy water temp gauge to see exactly what was going on goes straight to 100 but then seems to sit there bleed for like the 8th time, but still seems to get air in it. drift for a while as was wet (most of the work was done in rain too which is lovely) with heaps of cool down laps. This is about 4/5 days in went to try blleding again. was pushing more and more air, so pretty much left the head gasget and was most likly the cause all along, just slowly getting worse. So pretty much options were buy a new engine and waste another day or 2 doing a swap. Or trade it in. PV were pretty good about it offering me some cheap missles that they hadnt preped. The only one that didnt need a box ect was a s14 that was ex PV mechanic car. It was really neat but someoen went to town on it at a previous matsuri. It was good as it didnt need major work and at this point I wanted to stick with what I knew. So deal was done and 90 was traded in for a bit off the 14 The next day decided to spend the time going over the 14, checking all the suspension, changing oil, bleeding coolant, installing my water temp gauge. That day North was booked for private day so only got to play on school. Felt strong though. At this stage it was the day before G1 and having yet even done minami (where G1 was) decided to pay the nearly double the entry fee to spend most the day on it. Thought I'd finish off the tyres on north to get used to some 3rd gear stuff then put freshies on and head to minami. In one session I felt more comfortable than I did the 90 the whole time even with less power blown coilovers, guess the fimilarity. came in, let it cool off. Then decided to get a few more laps then head down. 2 laps in was boosting funny, came into pits to hear familar scraping of blown turbo. Went to sus out a replacement and Andy only had tired looking T28 for not the best of prices. Having no idea how much money I actually still had at this point, mate offered me a t25 he had spare after doing a t28 swap on one of his cars. Spent the rest of the day wacking that on, managed to get the piping working with minimal headache. At least with a SR Ive done this far to many times that its only a few hours even with basic tools. Got that finished around 4, but so took it for a quick spin to check it was ok, by the time that was done it was close of tracks. So waste of a minami entry. G1 rolled around the next day, I only thought I had the slimmest of chances at the start of the week to qualify, so with never having been on the track this trip (and only about 10 laps last time) knew I had no shot but had already paid for it. Had no confidence or power trying to do it with 235's and 7psi T25. but I was slowly starting to go faster and come over the crest better. Then one lap heard a series of thuds, slowed down and felt like the rear was going crazy. Nursed into pits to find knuckle had broke at the ball joint and brake rotor snapped, so that was me out. Sent most the day fixing it besides watching the battles and of course got it fixed just as tracks were closing. Matsuri went ok, from memory. We stopped drifting around 9, decided to go to happo to see some street drifting. Unfortunately all the good view spots were taken so we were only there for a while Crazy amount of people and organization for street stuff , still getting back at 5am. Was pretty fun, but a bit of a struggle to keep up with mates 220ishKW Sr's and the newcastle guys 90's but one of them rolling a 90 was a bit of a wake up call of how bad shit can get quick. Drifted the last day without issue (finally) and then did a burnout and ran out of fuel, and left Ebisu Headed down to tokyo, one night went to Daikoku Futo which had all the usual craziness like hakos and 240, supermade onevia, 26B FD, 3 veilside widebody FD's, modded ferrari ect Over the trip went to easy 20 up garages over the country and a few I-parts (dont bother they are shit) plus a few shops A few of the up garages we missed due to them closing random days. The day we rocked up to crystal auto it happened to be closed. Lady came out and explained it was for for 3 days for something like stocktake. hung around and had a drink. Just as we were about to drive out the driveway she came back and said the manager would open for us if we wanted to come in which was awesome. Between the 5 of us we easily I wouldnt be suprise if it was over 5K spent on all these shops, from random little shit to 4 diff centers haha Main things I managed to pick up were some cusco castor, silkroad camber arms, Genuine nismo grill, floor mats, bride bolster protectors, work/ssr full catalogs. As well as a new HPI harness from Crystal auto. Had to pay 3xregos/inspections on all my shit over last few weeks which wasnt fun and slowed things down Got modivated and decided to chuck the CA box in, did it over a few days after early morning starts. Didnt go super smoothly, but getting still better than last few times so not too bad. Not the greatest of box's, but price was right. Impulse bought this one day too as was cheap/rare. Might chuck it in passenger side If I can find a rail. Took it for a big drive yesterday with some mates that used to go for street runs nearly every weekend back in white silvia/s14 days. Managed to make it the round trip without getting pulled over suprisingly despite some close calls. So some hard parking photos on a different patch of grass Ripped the wing off as I was playing with different ideas.. definatly makes a difference Tried to fit camber arms whixh was a failure due to the curvature and chunky nature of jap arms. So need to invest in some spl or pbm.... silly driftworks Started making some combo led parker/indicators just for some low investment mucking around. Just the parkers done in this photo, but they are about 90% done now just need to buy a few resistors, trim the board and mount in a stock housing Also polished up tail lights as one side especially was looking pretty dull. Hard to tell before and after in phone pics but they look a lot better. Also fixed a led boars that had droppes out of place the best I could without pulling lense off But over priced parts are getting in the way of driving, so going missle Also badly chopped up some japan footage Sooooo. So yeah, after coming back from japan thought I was financially ruined. But selling the s14 paid for all the regos I had due, Parents were cool with a payment plan for money I owed (long story, but technically It was my money just set aside for overseas trip, would prefer to pay it back so it can go towards another trip). So I had won a $500 discount on a respray before I went to japan in a efame comp and wanted to use it before I stretched the friendship as it had been nearly 3 months. On the same day looked like I sold my KF's and worked out a swap + cash deal for 18 in rezax for a pair of 17x10+20 something and cash. So booked my car in for paint. The KF sale fell through, but after curbing my spending after japan + rezax money I ended up still having enough cash to make it happen. I had planned to do the dark purple/plum but seeming so many cool kids go for it I wasn't keen to tempt fate so decided to go in a different direction. I liked the plum colour, but thee was so many dark/black/grey cars that seemed to rock up to drift days down here I didn't want to go in that vein. Before japan I had done a bunch of dodgy photoshops, the efame colours of teal and coke didn't look too bad, but seemed overdone of late. I wandered though a car yard and for some reason no other colour popped out at me other than a blue. It was a Hyundai colour that was blue with heap of mica. I did a photoshop and blue seemed to provide the most contrast against the wheels and light and just seemed to suit. Although it was as Initial D fanboy as painting your 86 panda it just seemed to stick. As as much as I hate black roofs on s13/14/15 the 180 has a solid cut off. As well as having a sunroof there isnt much coloured roof left. Didn't want boring black so before I left I ordered some blue flake to go on the roof thus somewhat locking in the colour of the body. Considered going flake on the body, but not sure on coverage and would be way eaier to match in future without it. I was keen on the Hyundai colour, till I saw a photo of it in the shade. In the sun it looked great, but without the mica refelcting the sun it looked drab and a stock 90s colour. So About 2 days before I was to drop of the car I had cold feet on the colour. I would have gone something different, but already having the blue flake. Took a stab in the dark and deiced on one off internet photos. The day I dropped off the car I mixed up a rattle can to spray spare bar and checked I didn't mind the colour. I visited about 2 days before it was ment to be done. the roof and some panels were done. The shell was about to go in the booth. I was liking the flake I liked the colour but wasn't sold on if it would suit But the mica in the sun made a decent change in how it looked With the dead line of wanting to skid on sunda and needing time to put it back together and get it sorted, it was done on thursday arvo. They were finishing up a quick buff as I rocked up, it still needs a decent polish but they were sweet with me bringing it back after the track day and once the paint had hardened completely. Taking it home I wasn't completely sold That arvo I drove out to josh's to borrow his nutsert gun as quarters had been taken off thought I might as well do it. That night I just tinkered the putting front and rear lights in and did skirts and pods. The next day f**ked around in the morning dropping off wheels and getting tyres. Then did the rest of sorting out front bar and new reo to stop the droop, fitted up LED front lights I made, nutserted rear and changed wheels over. Gave it a quick wash and ended up with this With the contrast of the lights and wheels the blue was looking 10x better Its a weird colour going from dark in the shade to bright under lights/sun Again hard to capture glitter with cloudy sky's but pretty happy with it. So yeah all that's left to do is oil change and clean out interior Knowing my luck ill put it into the wall sunday, but we will see how it goes
  2. S13 dash button blanks

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/240sx-parts-s13-1989-1994/genuine-nissan-parts/body-front-roof-floor/685-ventilator/-c-1418_1419_1532_1544.html
  3. East Bear Mirrors

    East bear / aero maker(something like that) look same/similar The current set I have were sold as aero maker but look the pretty much the same as ones I bought off yahoo a few years ago listed as east bear. But as far as im aware there are no ebay knock offs like ganadors if thats what you are asking
  4. Bits required to fit T28 on a S13

    The only problem is it will look ok for about a week maybe then it will just burn, fade, bubble,crack and flake - it's just too close/hot man... i'd spray bolts and nuts and that would be it. better off just polising it up with a scuff wheel on a drill and maybe some new bolts to make it look nice I used the vht matte black extractor stuff on the heat shield (rated nearly 2x as high as the normal engine stuff) still fine a couple of years later besides a few scratches which a quick touch up spray solves
  5. Whent from vt commodore wagon to bf2 xr6 turbo ute Ute is massively ahead with way more power and the 6 speed means it uses comparable fuel dues to not having to rev the shit out of a 4 speed auto v6 Can easily get a na ute for less than 10 or turbo sedan
  6. There seems to be a lot of confusion on the factory skirts (especially when trying to buy a certain style) Got my hands on both so I thought id do a back to back to make it easier for people trying to figure out which is which Alot of info is from my own research so might not be 100% First is the thinner style From what I can tell these were offered on silvias in the aero package with the aero bar and pods. They are a bit thinner and pretty much flat along the whole skirt. As such these seem to line up dead on with the aero bar height wise and are a lot more subtle when on the car. These seem to be a lot rare/harder to find. On nigels s13 Silbeer They are aproximatly 3in low from the door around the center of the skirt Roughly 8.5in from the 2 tone line on the rear quater Second is the fatter 'droopy' style These came factory on both the CA and SR 180sx (pre face lift/type x) by the looks as an option. These are a bit fatter though the middle and droop down at the ends lower than the above s13 style. It seems like they were originally paired with the CA lip so seem to hang a bit lower than a s13 aero bar by about 1cm. From factory though they were painted a straight line with body colour and the lower/droopy bits painted black so at first glance can look similar to the thinner style. As they were offered for longer/ maybe available with more option packs they seem to be a lot more common. These also seem to be referred to as nismo skirts, though I thinks that just something that may not be true but seems to have stuck. Google pic of them on s13 they are a bit thicker though the center, being about 3.5in from the door The ends seem to drop a lot lower with the one at the rear being 9.5, nearly 10in to the 2 tone line This is from an american reproduction, but shows the back to back differences on same car/colour There is also obviously the face lift 180 'type x' skirts but those are easily identified looking completely different and 2 peice on s13 was suprisingly hard to google find so heres a onevia with them Random info, but may be helpful to someone
  7. Towing Capacity

    There are 2, the tow capacity of the car and the tow bar load rating. The lowest of the two is what that car is legally allowed to tow in my understanding What the manufacture rates the car to. It is moreso what the body can take+ warranty , not to do with the engine/brakes IE VT wagon is rated to 2.3T or something like that, but most only have a small towbar rated to 1T Falcon ute the auto is rated to 2.3T, but the manual only 1600kg. Nothing to do with the chassis but moreso to do with warranty on box/clutch when it was new It can all be fine, I was towing with a Celsior for quite a while till I stuck my head under the rear of the car one and saw the towbar was only rated to 1000KG. did it fine, but could find yourself in a lot of hot water if in a accident or for some reason pulled over while towing. Went to the VT and installed a 2.3T tow bar, was rated for it to legally tow now, but struggled way more than the lexus. But pretty much any cool jap car that could probably tow quite comfortably (stageas, crown wagons ect ) dont have a offical load rating in most states and with most towbars for them being custom the tow bar itself will only be given a low rating of 1T or so
  8. the lights next to the headlights are parkers You have no front indicators, probably as that bar needs jap spec s14a indiacotors and old owner or whatever didnt want to spend $150 on a new set
  9. Who here uses Yahoo Japan?

    ballpark $300ish for a pair on top of YJP win price for fees and shipping
  10. Who here uses Yahoo Japan?

    I bought a small fitting for the greddy oil cooler. Was painless and delivery time was as expected for ems, no big delays or anything. Cost of the item was a little more like most there stuff, but as it was only $15 or so for post and went straight though paypal it was actually cheaper than streeter as didnt have bank fees and commision added Most things though they are more expensive
  11. roadies may be not necessary in vic?

    They have done something similar in NSW whee you dont need to get the yearly rego inspection (pink slip) for cars less than 5 years old I think its stupid though as all they really end up checking is tyres and lights, all of which can easily perish in a year, let alone 5 years. Eg mum had a getz that was 4 years old, had a cracked windscreen she hadnt got around to getting replaced and didnt realise her rear tyres were below indicators till I pointed it out. Wouldnt have got noticed till her next service in 3 months, but she could renew the rego without inspection. Thats silly in my eyes. Still generally jelous that you guys only need an inspection when selling car or defected. Would make like a lot easier.
  12. New s15 front hubs?

    I got mine via freight forwarder with some other stuff from America to save postage. . Wouldn't have cost me much more than $250au for the pair
  13. New s15 front hubs?

    courtesy parts nissan parts.cc
  14. New s15 front hubs?

    America Brand new OEM $105 US each plus post
  15. Yes I took whole s14 box mount and crossmember and it bolts up took a bit of leavering so the tread went in with ease and without crossthreading, but pretty sure it needed that even when it was still in the 14
  16. Just sounds like battery is still half flat Either leave on charger overnight or buy a new one and go from there
  17. s1 s14 sr20det vct into s13

    About 4 wires to get it running 2 from the fusebox in bay to the ECU start signal one more from memory bridge the fuel pump realay(or wire that up from the ECU) rewiring all the ones on the plug under the dash to get cluster and consult port working
  18. s14a dori project .....Sil80 reshelling

    Not a lot happening. lined up a RB box off ^^^ got to drive the car to check no grinds/wines so probably going to go that direction. Found a place that in Adelaide that does cut and shut boxes with dogleg shifter and machining the release bearing carrier for about $350 exchange+ post so probably going to go that direction. I won some facebook popularity contest so won a voucher for $500 of a respray, took it down for a quote and will be booking it in after japan. I may be going a different colour to planned buy see how it some photoshopping turns out Other than that I just picked up some fatter skirts, the factory 180 ones. Not sure if just because they are white, but they seem to suit the widebody and rear lip a lot better and dont hang too much lower than aero bar [/url] [/url]
  19. s14/s13 gear box

    s13 speedo sensor in s14 box, thats what mine is now
  20. bad pics,especially as the black s13 aero skirts blend into the shadow but here is my comparison on my pos the s13 aero line up sweet with my aero bar, but too thin and subtle for my widebody and FPR rear lip so changed to the white 180 ones
  21. yeah pic looks a bit different but colour/angle/lighting may trick the eye
  22. s14/s13 gear box

    mass cange in diff ratio, along with tyre profile out of wack? from memory there is a dial on back of speedo(if take it out of cluster) to adjust for different ratios
  23. s14/s13 gear box

    Same shit only difference is keep your speedo sensor as s14 sensor to s13 dash will read half
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