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About Whymewhynow

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  • Location
    Australia QLD
  • Gender
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    1993 180sx SR20DET
  • Occupation
    Professional Geek (IT)
  1. Hey guys, So....I got carjacked a couple of years ago, and lost a car I'd been working on for around 10 years (hence the inactivity on this forum, if you check my history). These wheels and tyres are from track days at QR, and are essentially (aside from photos) the last remaining parts. I'd thought about getting another one but eventually decided against it, as it just wouldn't be 'my car', if you know what I mean. The time has come for me to finally move these on. Sorry for the emotion there - down to details. These wheels are Avanti Maze Rs, and can fit multiple offset, as you'll see in one of the photos - 14x114.3, 4x100, 4x98, or 5x100. they haven'tbeen re-drilled; I bought them that way new. They've been used a grand total of three times, and the tyres on them are Bridgestone RE55 semi-slicks which have been used I think 6 times, and should still be good for a track day or two, but they're getting old (6 years I think). They're 16x7.5", and the tyres are 225s. They've been sitting in my shed for the last 3 years doing nothing, and every time I see them I'm torn between selling them and not wanting to let them go. The wheels cost me $650 new, and the tyres another $800 or so, but honestly if someone can use these I'll give the tyes for free and halve the price of the rims - $325 for all four. Any questions just let me know here, or send me a message on 0413 375 509. Name's Tim.
  2. t25 to t28 upgrade?

    ^^^ I did the T25 to 28 conversion a little while ago, but I already had the supporting mods. You'll lose a bit of response down low, but it'll hit harder at the mid-to-top end. All depends on how you drive really - I definitely missed my turbo pushing (not starting to spool) from 2500, but another 1000rpm later everything was ok again.
  3. Adjusting coilovers?

    Same with my car - I put a new set of front coilovers in last week, and same story with the old, the standard (with cut springs, annoyed but had no other option at the time), and the new. Left scrapes on lock, right's fine. At least the car looks flat though, and if I strip the inner guard lining it goes away - it's barely touching. EDIT: Er, didn't think about this post sorry; it doesn't help you at all. At least you know you're not alone though :-)
  4. Can anyone identify this wing please?

    Thanks Blingcommander, that's actually one of the pics I looked at a while back when trying to understand air flow and resistance a little better. I'm ok with a little bit of drag, because my 200-odd rwkw 180sx isn't exactly going to break the sound barrier any time soon anyway, but I have more fun cornering than I do going straight regardless, so I'm willing to sacrifice a little on the straights to gain some exit traction if it comes to that. Good advice pmod - I'd thought about that; not exactly as you'd described, but a few similar ideas including up to getting a whole second rear hatch and attaching a wing to that, but I came to the conclusion that I'm just far too lazy to change that all the time. Your idea is miles better than that, but I'm still not sure I can be bothered. Once I turn pro *cough* I'll have all sorts of fancy things, but for now it's my daily driver, and I'm trying not to destroy things as much as possible. Having said that, I know I'd have to punch holes in the boot lid anyway, but I'm really after something that I can leave on, as I'm incredibly lazy. Even changing the wheels at the track to use the semis is a pain in the butt once you take into account geting them there and packing them all back up again. I'd like a splitter and a rear diffuser, but I already have enough trouble getting over gutters :-P Besudes, once it gets to that level I'd start looking at things like canards and a flat underbody tray, and then I'd look at my bank account and start crying :-p
  5. Can anyone identify this wing please?

    buy crack instead? That doesn't provide enough downforce - if anything, it makes it harder to come out of a corner what with all the executives hanging off the boot.
  6. Can anyone identify this wing please?

    Yeah? I've done a little bit of reading up on how wings work and things like that, and the split wing seems to be the way to go as far as efficiency goes, and that one has an adjustable angle to be able to dial in a little more/less downforce. I'm by no means anywhere near an expert on the subject though - any better ideas? If it's not going to be reasonably effective then I won't bother; I don't need a wing just for the sake of having one.
  7. Can anyone identify this wing please?

    Ok, that wouldn't be too bad - I don't care too much about the ends, just the actual downforce part, and the 'not looking like a tool at the shops' part. I'll have a look around anyway :-)
  8. Can anyone identify this wing please?

    Yeah, I got that distinct impression from my brief search....might have to try for something similar and hope for the best. Hopefully an import yard/workshop/wreckers somewhere will have what I'm after. Thanks though!
  9. Can anyone identify this wing please?

    Never mind - found it :-) ARC GT Wing. Just have to find out how to get one now.
  10. Hey all, I was just browsing sites looking for examples of a wing for a friend, as we were talking about putting wings on our cars for the downforce at trackdays, but were trying to find wings that might help but didn't look like 'LOOKIT ME IM A SUPA RACER YER' - long story short, I stumbled on this one at a Jap auction site, and just thought it was perfect. I can't find any similar models anywhere though (although I acknowledge that 'anywhere' is pretty subjective)! The closest I've found is a Megan Racing wing in Canada, but I much prefer this one. Anyway, if anyone knows what it is, or even something markedly similar, I'd be eternally* grateful! Thanks in advance - Tim *or at least most of the afternoon
  11. The shocks have now been changed successfully and I've taken the car for a test drive. Thanks for the advice - particularly Blingcommander (taking the other one off and mounting the car on a trolley jack made it a LOT easier), and jamesjgts25t, who very kindly offered to come and help out with this and other future mishaps I'm sure I'll have. Didn't end up needing it this time, but I'll break something soon no doubt. Oh, and some of the bolts were on TIGHT - screwed the ends off of two ratchet adapters :-(
  12. Sure do - a big ol' slab of concrete with a cushion of hope and rainbows. That jack idea would have been great if the rotor bolt things were too low, but unfortunately they're 7-8cm higher than the strut ones, so it's the struts that need to compress :-/ Unless once I jack the whole front end up tomorrow, the lower arms/castor rod bolts/witchcraft that Blingcommander mentioned move enough so that compression isn't needed. I mean I'm an IT nerd in every day life, and therefore naturally have forearms of steel* from maintaing servers every day, but I don't want to risk snapping the springs. *steel is a strong word. Let's go with cardboard. Wet cardboard. That's been chewed on by kittens. Kittens with needle teeth of papery doom.
  13. Haha nah, probably not what you're imagining - I have one side propped up with the standard jack, then took that wheel off and removed the strut. I imagine it would have been a bit tougher with the wheel on the ground! I haven't gotten the other side off yet - going to get a trolley jack tomorrow and lift it via....something in the middle, no doubt. Hopefully something strong and flat :-)
  14. Ah, ok - looks like I might need that trolley jack after all then; I've just been using the standard jack up until now. I'll pick one up in the morning, before another member here who offered - extremely generously - to help, makes it over. If I'm lucky I'll save him some hassle. Thanks for the advice!
  15. Hey guys, I've had a bit of a look around so if this is a double/similar post, I apologise. Basically I have a '93 180sx, and I've got some HSDs in the front which have died. I can't get anything to replace them for at least three weeks, so I sourced some stock front struts to replace them with in the meantime, just so I can drive. Now, I'm not a mechanic or even know much about cars at all, but I managed to get the first HSD front strut out cleanly, and put in the stock strut...which is where I ran into a problem. I have previously had my brakes replaced with larger rotors and R33 GTST calipers, which was fine with the coilovers. However, when I've bolted in the standard struts, the bolt holes are about 7cm lower than the coilovers, and they don't even remotely match up with the brakes. I checked the heights of the struts, and sure enough the coilovers are that much shorter. My problem is obviously getting the shocks back in. I don't have a spring tensioner/clamp/whatever it's called, and I can't push the thing up enough to bolt it in myself. I considered getting a trolley jack and pushing the arm up under it to compress it, but there's a gap between the strut and the arm and I don't want to damage anything - plus I don't know whether it's actually meant to be compressed when it's just being bolted up to a hanging wheel. If anyone knows of a reasonable way to line these things up, or wants to drive to Underwood to do it for $50, I'm all ears. Thanks - Tim