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About DOC_RE

  • Rank
    ROTOR STRAPPED since 1996
  • Birthday 01/12/1980

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General Info

  • Location
    Australia SA
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Drifting, Making Money, Living Live to the fullest
  • Car Type
  • Car Model
    Mazda RX7 (FD3S)
  • Occupation
    Sheetmetal worker

    G'day Lads, Thought it was about time to get motivated to post some more updates....SO HERE WE GO !! ok so straight of the bat - Most definetly have a external kill switch as pictured below. And as per cam Regs it has a BLUE TRIANGLE in front of it to identify its location so all good. so to continue on it was onto AM Engineering just to get a couple cage modifications done I had the cross bar changed for a ladder bar arrangement which makes for easier acces getting in and out of the carand the front legs was changed and had the map spec dimple die tie ins on the front windscreen which increased head/helmet room for me & the passenger. after the cage mods where done it went to FISHER paint n panel to get the cage coloured in Came up MINT !! Back at GARAGE7 for final assembly and final prep for starting her up, The wire up these boy did is INCREDIBLE !! Hats off to Declan and Stephen absolute legends from twisting and heat shrinking every wire, to building fan/water pump controllers and even designing a complete speed controller set up for my mazda3 elec power steering pump that can be controlled by the haltech AMAZING !! I had a Couple things to do before we start her, 1st was braided line for the vacuum/boost solenoid and the braided lines to the gates. I wanted to use Braid for all the vacuum lines as this eliminates the chance of vacuum leaks and give the best chance of long lasting lines around the hot zones of the turbo/ manifold We have power people LETS GET THIS STARTED !! Time to put fluids in and leak test the cooling system and the vacuum system and put the best oil money can buy for E85 running engine ULX110 Time to start her !!! STAY TUNED MORE TO COME !! Also for more Videos and all the action I get upto check out my Facebook Page CRAZY DOG -Cliff Clayson Cheers Cliff

    OK OK OK We are getting to the POINTY END of the build now wooohooo The next to install is the Carbon dash, I picked up this amazing carbon facia thru ANGRY PANDA FACTORY incredible quality and fitment I also got some carbon sheets to make up new facia's for my centre console and the DO-LUCK gauge pod came up NICELY !! ok so mounting the IQ3 dash is super easy with the template provided by haltech , all I did was add some extra braces to further strengthen the facia and the mount , I also added braces to the top part of the OEM dash that the facia mounts to which made for a super strong unit And the finished product of the IQ3 dash mounted...... Next is I removed the centre aircon/heater controls facia and replaced it with another carbon blank facia by ANGRY PANDA FACTORY once again "CARBON PORN" is what comes to mind for me haha I decided that I wanted to make this panel removable so I used the facia as a backing plate and made up another panel to go over the top, I sued small nut-certs and hex head bolts to fix the panel to the facia, this give me the ability to remove it and get in behind it for any reason. So back to those switches and the part I hate the most is figuring out where they should all go.....things I took into account when putting the switches in was; 1.how often they get used, 2.what there purpose is either for safety or function, 3. being able to reach them while strapped into my racing seat means the important stuff has be able to be reached at arms length. Pictured below is the final switch placement for the switches I can reach at arms length, starting bottom left the recall for the Defi gauges, above that is the left & right indicator switches, above them is the toggles switches for the IQ3 dash, to the right of the dash is the green isolator and accessories on switch and the engine start button For the centre console switch panel I've put some switches I wanted to try and it probably very different from what you would be use to [let me know your thoughts about these??] the switches are as follows: #Top Row - left to right; 1.Wipers, 2.Headlights, 3.Hazards, 4.Flashers #Bottom Row - left to right; 1.Water Pumps, 2.Radiator fans, 3.Oil Cooler Fans, 4.Dash Fans The water pumps, radiators Fans & oil cooler fans are overrides over the HALTECH ECU so I can turn these on after the car has switched off giving me the ability to cool the car and keep water circulating while off and stationary Very happy with the finished product !!! let me know your thoughts guys?!?! Ok so next the FD goes in for a quick cage modification then its off to the lads at GARAGE7 for the wiring to be finished, more updates to come !

    Ok Gents Updates A PLENTY so to kick it off from where I left off and wow I can't wait to show you all what Ive been doing !! OK, so with the foot well acrylic floor plate and the carbon foot well in I was able to put the stainless battery box back in after feeding the loom thru the fire wall and all fits SNUG. Far out the HALTECH ECU loom is complex !!! Next to install is the Electronic Isolator I purchased from the UK from DEMONTWEEKS along with some racing buttons [more on them later] I wanted to mount the Elec Isolator as close to the battery as possible as well as the Volt Stabiliser, I used a RAZIN volt stabiliser in my previous car and found they made a difference with electronic function With mounting all of it on the battery box allowed for super short wiring and keeps everything super neat in my opinion next to be mounted is the HALTECH ECU SMART WIRE I also wanted to mount this as close as possible to the battery box but out of the way, I found this spot on the trans tunnel perfect as its tucked underneath the dash just enough to hide/protect it but also is in a spot the we can access it for the data cable input etc.. Something else I wanted to put into the mix is a Charger/jumper pack point in easy access as the battery and battery box will be difficult to access once the dash goes back in, so for this I sourced some 12V anderson plugs and hard wired lines direct to the battery, I also made jumper leads and a trickle charger connection to use for the plugs [simple & easy] And the finished product all installed..... THE HEART AND BRAINS OF A MONSTER......... Next to come - the carbon dash !!!

    Ok Peoples Haltech Install time and wow do I have some surprises for you hope you like them!! I've always had an idea or starting point on how I want to install the computer. My idea was to mount it to the floor of the passenger side foot well and I honestly couldn't believe how well it all fit in there. Also to the left I mounted the Defi controller, also the can hub controllers for the haltech also fit in nicely behind the ECU With it all neatly positioned it was time to cut the templates for the clear acrylic to be put over it I also order a carbon foot well that will be mounted the to acrylic And the finished product the acrylic plate, put down it looks amazing next was to mount it and I was freaking out because drilling the acrylic is an art form and found coz the first one tried I shattered it with the first hole I drilled using a normal drill bit hahaha so I had to go get a second floor plate made up and try again and this time I got a special drill bit and managed to get all the holes done next update will be the wiring and smart wire install

    Ok another update incoming ......... After the cooling system was done it was time to do more heat shielding !!! I picked up a couple packs of the DEI REFLECT A GOLD HEAT SHIELDING BARRIER FILM, this stuff is so good to work with and easy to install The main objective it to shield around the turbo area and dump pipe to stop the heat transferring into the cockpit..... Once the DEI REFLECT A GOLD HEAT SHIELDING BARRIER FILM was installed the AEROTECH alloy shielding can go back on.... Next super excited the Haltech PS1000 with the IQ3 Data Logger dash & Smart Wire Kit arrived from sydney and Wow I am blown away...... but more on the install tomorrow Peace

    Ok everyone SOOOO MUCH STUFF TO UPDATE WOW !! The stainless steel HKS super filter is premium and fits in nicely next to the intercooler and with the 4 inch intake pipe made by Alex Revell just suits the engine bay and serves a purpose for cold air intake. Next was to fit the MEZIERE ELEC WATER PUMP and plumb it upto the V-mount radiator set up, As you can see I removed the standard water pump set up and ordered the twin outlet adaptor from the states. Unfortunatly the one from the states didn't suit so I got one of XTREME ROTARIES full CNC twin out let wow these are Incredible.... I ended up fabricating a bracket for the pump out of 100x3mm flat bar and mounted the pump to the rad bracket, with a couple bits of silicone and the water temp sensor section installed, it looked real neat.... I also got a breather tank from demon-tweaks.co.uk with the same size inlet/outlet as the radiator with the outlets at 90 deg to tie in nicely with the outlet on the KOYO rad and to the inlet on the motor.....worked out well Another Idea that I wanted to try on this car was having a additional pump due to the fact I'm running 2 water cooled external gates, I got my hands on a little davies craig pic up pump and started to design the way it would circulate cooling water for the gates and the turbo, I had 2 x outlets added to the cooling system one on the breather and one on the temp sensor housing So the cooler water coming out of the rad feeds the pick up pump which pumps it into these blocks made by AEROFLOW which have 3 outlets, 2 of the outlets feed the gates and the 3rd outlets feeds the turbo, then the same for the return into the AEROFLOW block then back into the hot side of the Rad set up, all of the feed line I made up of stainless fitting and braided lines and then used heat sleeve to protect the lines, Happy with the end result..... Next on the list was fitting the mazda3 electric power steering pump, I decided I wanted to mount it inside the car under the dash to the back of the passenger side foot well this allowed me to use the standard brackets, which made install easy, then it was off to super cheap to get a heap of power steering hose sections that I used to to get the tank fitted, the main feed line I used braided line and got an adaptor fitting to bolt into the power steering rack, on the return I also installed a power steering cooler and ran all the lines the same way, with a couple nice Aeroflow hose clamps to neaten it up and secure the hoses. Ok heaps more to come peeps sorry again for taking soooo long Time flies when your having fun

    Yeah I agree, and you'll see in the next post what I did instead !! Thanks Gaz really appreciate the feed back man, I can honestly say thats with it being pretty much finished it makes me sad in a way as I have absolutley enjoyed every minute building this beast & cannot wait to hit the track !!! there will be passenger rides for all !!!! Thanks again man ' Cheers Passenger rides , for real? Would love to come say g'day and score a ride in this beast. Cheers lads, yeah still plugging away with it she's pretty much finished just catching up on the updates still got a couple more to go before I post up start up vids!! And yeah for sure passenger rides for whoever wants them !! I'll keep everyone upto date on when and where I'll be when I start hitting tracks !! Come & catch up can't wait !!

    What Up Everybody, I got another stack of updates for ya to feast your eyes on ....... After the manifold was done was time to do the exhaust system, I once again enlisted the help of old mate crazy eyes aka Alex Revell aka REV-L A Rotary Passion to help with his awesome TIG welding skills.... We started on the dump pipe first and as you can see in the pics we have created an expansion chamber type dump due to recomendations from Jason and his experience with Bridge Port Turbo's and there high exhaust gas temps, This design actually helps to keep temps down and increase flow FYI !! Its a 3inch out let out to 4inch dump then back to 3 inch using reducers I also decided to use V-band flanges for the exhaust system also as it makes it so easy to remove / replace with just 1 bolt !! one the system was fabricated I then exhaust wrapped it from about half way down the mid pipe right thru to the muffler and then also heat shielded it to reduce the heat transfer to my fuel cells in the passenger seat wells I chose to go with the similar muffler to my old FC as I loved the note of the JUN-BL mufflers Big Big thanks to Marky @ Exhaust Technology for the HOOK UPS absolute gentleman !!! Although I wasn't happy with the tip so we've since changed it but you won't see it till its finished hehe I received the fuel rail from XCESSIVE MOTORSPORTS in the USA to suit there full flow L.I.M. so it was off to MTQ to see Paul again for injectors, Im running 4 x 1000cc in manifold & 2 x 750cc in engine should be plenty of fuel for the bridgey !!! Im solo happy with the placement of the turbo to the intake manifold, Nice spacing !! Also in this picture you can see I have removed the standard water pump assembly as I decided to go electric water pump and side mount alternator to allow more room in & around the motor !! Rohen @ XTREME ROTARIES in melbourne came thru with the goods and sent me a full side mount kit for my motor WOW he make some amazing gear !! I also ordered and received 4 x LS7 truck coils that have there own heat sinc on the rear of the coil to aid in cooling due to there high output, I made up a neat little bracket and will mount them straight in front of the spark plugs. Ok, you will be pleased to know after much research I decided to dump the silicone on the intercooler pipe work as it always caused me problems popping off so to eliminate this I opted for the WIGGINS PEGISUS CLAMPS for USA these thing are rated to 150psi and a neat as F*#K ............. The only difficult part I found with using these type of clamps was the pipe work had to be perfect in length and the bends had to be all cut square so they butted up neatly to the other pipes it was a bit time consuming ........... Once dummy fitted together I dropped them off to my good mate ANDREW MILNE to work his magic welding all the clamp ends and pipes together, while he did that I dropped into MTQ at REGENCY PARK again to see Paul and picked up my TAiL blow off valve !! Andrew did a SICK job of welding all the pipes together WOW !!! AAAAAAAND the finish product !!! pipes and clamps fitted and blow off valve on also !!! YEAH BUDDY ! Also in this picture you can see the MEZIERE ELEC WATER PUMP, the quality of these pumps are 2nd to none but more about that later thats it for now guys stay tuned for more !!! Cheers Cliff

    Yeah I agree, and you'll see in the next post what I did instead !! Thanks Gaz really appreciate the feed back man, I can honestly say thats with it being pretty much finished it makes me sad in a way as I have absolutley enjoyed every minute building this beast & cannot wait to hit the track !!! there will be passenger rides for all !!!! Thanks again man ' Cheers

    What Up everybody, I know I know the updates have been slow !! Been so busy its not funny....... I wanna get all the progress to the current state up before I starting posting up Vids of the finished product !!! So here we GO.... After finishing the BASH BAR it was time to fit all the oil line for the pile coolers, Im in love with the AEROFLOW fittings and the colours the raw silver fittings do it for me and no worries with scratching the colour off witch makes fitment easy as !! Running the lines and attaching to the body using the billet line clamps looks classy and so easy to fit !!! and the fittment behind the bumper is sweet !! I love being able to see the lines thru the bumper holes haha OH MAN got pics back from STAN THE MAN (the best alloy polisher around ) of my partly polished TE37's OH YESSSSS !! #f**kyourfakewheels while on the cooling side of things picked up the power steering cooler just generic kit and they work the best !! I'll fit that a bit later !!! Started cutting out the holes to fit all the switches etc for the dash came up nice I decided to fit the brake bias knob & the start button in this panel also to keep it all in the one spot, thats basically all the switches it needs as the HALTECH controls everything !! OHHHHH MAN MORE PICS OF THE POLISHED TE37'S AUTO PORN !! Next Up... fitting the dual engine breather system, starting with 1st catch GREDDY can mounted on the fire wall, the 2nd can will be mounted at the front of the engine bay [ that will come later] Fabricated a breather tube that was previously an oil return for the stock twins set-up that goes directly to the sump, perfect for breather.... I love the look of the old school map style breather lines so I found some at clarke rubber that was oil resistant and perfect for breather. I also fabricated some more heat shielding for the lower intake manifold [you an never have to much heat shielding], I made some basic tabs off the manifold bolts, made a cardboard cut out of what I wanted then cut it out of the heat shielding and bent it up by hand TO EASY !!! OK OK its getting serious now - BIG BIG THANKS to PAUL @ MTQ for the hook ups of my new GT35/1.06 with Stainless Stell TAiL housing V-BAND to V-BAND ..... F*^KING EPIC Time to start building the stainless steel exhaust manifold with the help of my good mate ALEX REVELL from [ REV-L A Rotary Passion ] absolute legend !! we started with a heap of 2 inch S/S steam pipe bends and worked our magic on the belt sander to get as equal length runners as we could, it a time consuming process building manifolds but when you get it right - WOW !! The hardest part was getting the external gate runners in the right spot as we are running 2 x 38mm gates so position is paramount but we got there in the end ! With the gates dummy fitted its a snug fit but enough clearance from the steering column and still enough room for all the air and water lines .... Top View with tuber dummy fitted LOOKS MINT !!! Now time for die grinding the shit outta it and knife edging the internals of the manifold for maximum flow and reduced air disruption 10hrs of die grinding later you get this LoL (hope the pictures turn out !!!) thats it for now more to come tomoz let me know what you think cheers Cliff

    WAIT A MINUTE, WAIT A MINUTE ........ lets not get carried away let me bring upto date with what i been doing the last 12 months CHECK IT !!! What up PEEEEPS, yeah I know , I know its been a crazy long time since updating and thats just not right so instead of giving you excuses i'll just get straight into tha truck load of stuff I've done ............... check it........ so the front bash bar was fitted then outta no where came Paul from MTQ at regency park [LEGEND] with my new 38mm TiAL external gates man these things are sick (not 1 gate but 2 !!!!!) #f**kEVERYBODYSHEARING !!! so I got stuck into modifying the seat rails to get the seat lower as Im 6"1 my head with a helmet on nearly hit the roof with the standard seating position, I know alot of people had gone the flat floor option but to be honest I didnt want to go down that path I like the standard look. So the standard seat mounts got removed and to reenforce the mounting points I bent up some 8mm flat bar in the same shape as the OEM mounts and welded them to the under side on the floor to give me maximum clearance and then gave them a lick of silver paint on top and seam sealed them and painted underneath, from looking at them you wouldnt even know. so with the main floor bracket down for my seat it has actually dropped the seat by nearly 2 inches and with my helmet on got nearly 3 inches of clearance and still retaining the factory floor plan.... now i just gotta do the same to the passenger side :? So Angry Panda racing have got this awsome set of Carbon fibre panels for the stock FD and i'm keen, so placed an order for them !!! The Haltech iQ3 dash will look sick mounted on there !! So finally got round to getting the Bash Bar off the front and painted it and fitted it all up, it looks killa painted silver Well while Im onto Bash Bars I got onto Lance at WALKER CHASSIS again [LEGEND] and got him to bend me up some pipe for my rear bar and as usual he has excelled himself.. This bar is going to be a bit easier but I want to incorporate a rear jacking point also as with the rear diffuser being so low I wont be able to get the jack under the diff to change tyres........ Im going to mount the bar to the strongest part of the rear where the OEM bash bar bolts up directly to the chassis, so first to make templates for the brackets I decided to fab the brackets for the bash bar outta the same thickness flat bar I used for the front, making cardboard templates makes fab work easy as !!! P.S does anyone notice what rims I got on in that shot ?? heres another pic of my new rims !! :laugh: More about them laters........... Piecing the bar together proved to be a bit more tricky than I first thought I had to jig it up a few times to get it to sit nicely in the rear bar but once it was all lined up, notching and adding triangulated bars was easy .....tacked them in and put it on the bench to fully weld it ready for fabbing the jacking point.... I tried to keep it simple as there was already a very strong cross bar in the chassis standard which already had a bolt hole for where the petrol tank bolted up, a simple bar down to this bolt hole where I fitted a bit of 90 angle with a larger piece of tube bolted into the OEM hole.. Then I cut a hole in the carbon fibre diffuser and jacked it up to test it out .........works a treat !!!! :twisted: With the bar fitted .... I decided to paint this bash bar black coz it suited the back of the FD better incase I lose my rear bumper :bounce: dont mind the pink bits on it either hehe......... let me know what you think peeps stay tuned there plenty more to come !!!!! Cheers

    Is this thread still working ???? WOW its been a long time since I posted in here??? who wants to see the finished product ???

    Hahahaha awsome cheers man thats sick hahahaha ....... yeah thanks man, yeah the standard reo is plastic junk and yeah dosent fit the ORIGIN front bar anyway but yeah your right about the force transfer but I think if im hitting somthing that hard the chassis will get bent regardless if I have a bash bar there or not, however id prefer there to be a bash bar , it just more so to protect the vitals for superficial damage from the likes of cones, water barriers etc if you know what I mean.... thanks again man. yeah cheers I try & make it semi intersting so you enjoy reading it, I simplify alot of the work tho as to go into so much detail would end up with page long write ups lol, glad you like it man, yeah I see what your saying with crumple zones and absorbing the impact and your totally right, ive seen similar designs to mine in colisions and they do crumple theres really not much in it ,but with regards to the side impact tho if im hitting a car t-bone styles that hard that my crumple zone is going to play a part in protecting me then the person in the other car would be f**ked with or without my bash bar infront from how I see it..............whats your thoughts???? yeah thanks man yeah keeping the standard plastics turned out better than I thought it would, I really didnt think i'd fit it all in lol............yeah she looks tuff like an ARB bull bar hey but yeah im certainly not planning on plowing/ smashing my car after spending this long building it, I think i'll have a fair bit of fun in it before I get comp serious.............. yeah cheers for the tips on that one man definetly didnt think of that, after thinking bout what you wrote i'll chop them ends down & i'll weld caps on'em also to help prevent that end from poping tyres if it dose get bent in....... And yeah man been researching and planning thoroughly the whole build as I go so I can get it built tuff first go, once finished I plan on campaigning this car for many many seasons to come !!!!!! yeah everyone loves the tail lights hey LoL n thats why there staying hahahaha but yeah thanks man yeah cheers for the props and yeah this is definetly a drift car and the pretty carbon well guess we will see if it stays on or not I mean pre 2009 i'd been drifting for bout 4yrs and had 2 different kits on my FC and only smashed my rear bar off once with the first kit at Oran park so I figured the rear diffuser should be pretty safe I made the mounts extra stong Im looking forward to hitting the track with the rear aero ive read about alot of cars around the world that have had alot of sucesss with rear diffusers and rear canards guess time will tell if it works on my FD or not!! cheers bro thanks again for the feed back fellaz

    Ok peeps, got a bit more of an update for ya. So after cutting the bottom off the rear quaters and the rear bar to make room for the difuser it left some open holes into the cabin, gota make sure all the holes are sealed as I dont want my car filling up with smoke so I cant see! gas tight - water tight - smoke tight.... I made up some cardboard templates once again by just tracing around the bottom of the rear quater cut out, it was that easy and then transfered the templates onto 2mm sheet metal and then cut them out. Next step was to TIG weld them on as it was only thin metal we did a series of spot welds around and then filled in the gaps to reduce warping of the metal and the finished product with a lick of paint! Next on the agenda the fuel system... Big thanks to SLEEKA SPARES - Dave and Kelly for the hook ups with the O44 bosch pumps- legends!! I ordered a duel pump bracket which is a fairly neat set up for the pumps and makes mounting nice and easy Next step off to the shop to buy some supplies for the set up! alot of supplies!! lol So the plan is to mount the pumps in a similar position to the standard set up, then ill be able to use the factory covers to protect the set up. Using a swag of dash fittings had to do a 2 into 1 set up on both sides of the pumps running dash 10 braided line from the surge tank thru a 40micron MOROSO filter and then dash 10 braided line to the fuel rail on the engine and dash 8 braided line from the fuel regulator return to the surge tank thru a MOROSO fuel cooler and then from the surge tank return into the fuel tanks, its a pretty straight forward setup but at the same time fairly complex. The MOROSO fuel cooler commonly used by drag racers for its cooling capabilities been able to drop the temperature of the fuel by upto 30degrees and cooler fuel is more condensed so it will deliver more fuel for more horse power. I also bought a few rolls heat sleeve and covered all of the exposed lines to aid in keeping the lines cool and protecting them at the same time All covered with the standard plastics you wouldnt realise there was a 600HP+ fuel set up underneath all that! Just how I like it Next I started on a peice of equipment from what everyone has been telling me is essential for drift not that I had one on my FC but apparently im going to need one on my FD!! Can anyone guess what this is from the pic lol?? Yep you guessed in its a crash bar no no its a bash bar kiddies!! Big big thanks to Lance at WALKER CHASSIS for bending up the bars for me, excellent job as usual, now the fun stuff of peiceing it all together I started off with the main hoop that was peiced together to fit the main part of my ORIGIN front bar We welded that together and then I fitted the front bar to my car with that hoop sitting inside of it to get the measurements of the main supports once I had the measurements it was onto cutting and notching out on the belt sander which I found difficult but if you take your time with it, its not too bad...I spot welded them on to the flat bar that I had bolted into the positions where the standard reo bar normally bolts too, as these are the strongest positions which are bolted right too the main chassis rails. I did that so that any slight impacts will be taken with no damage except for fibre glass damage to the bar but there easy to replace!! I also did another hoop which looped around the front of my V-MOUNT KOYO RAD which bolted up underneath the chassis on both sides and joined that to the top section with two bars on either side of the main opening of my front bar Once that was all spot welded together I removed it and fully MIG welded it and cleaned it up and this is the finished product What does everyone think of the bash bar I mean crash bar??? My oil coolers arrived from the U.S.A big big thanks to CX RACING for the quality 30 row oil coolers (CX RACING run a full racing/drift team and all of their products are tested in real time) So I bought some small 11" thermo fans to mount to the back of the oil coolers, which will be controlled by the HALTECH P1000 to regulate the engine temp electronically. Mounting them in was pretty easy, basically made up some brackets and welded them in on the angle that suits the front bar while still being protected by the main hoop of the bash bar. I also added in an extra braket at the bottom, just too reduce the flex of the cooler aswhen they get hot they tend to move around a bit Andddddd the finished product with the ORIGIN front bar on and everything looking nice and neat! What does everyone think?? Let me know as I appreciate the feedback. Stay tuned, more to come Cheers Cliff

    Hey everyone, cant believe how long its been since ive posted on this thread but I have been flat out working on the car, so much has been done! I'll pick up from where I left off in the last post and take you thru to were im upto now. So after I finished the wiring I started to make the template for the heat shrouding for around the turbo, as you can see I wanted to take it from the strut tower all the way to around the firewall to keep that heat contained from the turbo Once I had the template made out of cardboard, it was easy to transfer onto the heat shield, this stuff is easy to work with, just watch out for sharp edges I made up an extra peice to cover the streering shaft to reduce the heat transfer into the cabin I want to try and keep it as cool as possible in there . I used some black rubber re-enforced edging over the edges of the heat shroud for protection from the sharp edges, and it looks way neater! While I was there I fixed up the bracket for the excelerator cable, I took the slack out of it, Gotta have that pedel tight! NEXT... I wanted to make up some new sway bar links for my rear sway bar, because it just has crappy plastic ones as standard As you can see from the picture, there not much good especially as im running racing beat heavy duty sway bars, so its time at instal the WHITELINE adjustable rose jointed sway bar links, but I have to make up the brackets to fit them and this is how I did it. Its as easy as cutting 50x100mm RHS to suit the links and drill some holes A lick of paint And bolt them in!! Just like a bought one hey! What do you rekon?? should do the job! NEXT... I had some left over carbon fibre from the rear defuser, which I wanted to make into some rear canards After speaking to a couple friends of mine we talked about the rear canards and they have two purposes,1. added down force for the rear 2. keeping the smoke thick and low. I like the second one best, hehe So I basically put a non stick surface on the area of the car where I wanted to fibre glass the canards as at the moment there just a single peice of carbon with no mounting points, so the object of the fibre glass is for mounting purposes. So its pretty easy, I basically just masking taped the carbon into the position that I wanted and fibre glassed onto it from underneath and let dry, it doesnt get any easier then that. Finished product pics... After I had done the rear canards I felt that the vortex generators on the rear defuser needed to come out further to line up with the canards. So I made some ally extensions for them Once again started off with a cardboard template, (this cardboard is the best stuff, get it from your local stationary shop beleive me it makes life easy!) Once the ally was cut out and power filed, I fitted it to the defuser to see how it looked with the canards, After the trial fitment I gave them a lick of black paint and bolted them on, heres the pics I reckon it looks sick ! what do you guys think?? Thats it for now, theres heapssssss more to come!!! Ill post up more tomorrow! Peace out for now