Jump to content

adam.

Silver Member
  • Content count

    476
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About adam.

  • Rank
    Silver Member
  • Birthday 12/27/1989

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Toyota
  • Car Model
    JZX100 Chaser
  1. Hey all, I'm after a 5 speed gearbox with shifter from an R32, RB20DET, or anything that fits, R34 NA, etc. Obviously must not be whining, crunching or anything like that. Another requirement is for the box to be in Victoria, which will be picked up upon inspection. PM for the quickest response. Thanks, Adam
  2. Pretty much what I listed in the OP, instead of using a size 6 cup, I now use a size 5. Thanks
  3. So I figured out what might be causing the contaminated welds.. Turns out it could indeed be the drop saw. Here are my welds now. Nothing changed until about halfway through where I went down to a size 5 cup (from 6) because my dog dropped my torch on the ground. Settings were all kept the same, only thing I did was grind the surfaces to be welded more thoroughly. Inside and out and on the face. Eliminating all contact the drop saw had with the pipe. Thought I'd update everyone.
  4. Cleaning consisted of deburring the pipe after the cut and a quick wipe down. Torch is definitely on correct, and torch is pushed in the direction of travel. Please remember that i can only set the amperage and once the arc has striked, that is it. I have no other control over the amperage since it's a lift tig setup, which may be causing the overheating issues. But looking at the above photo, my weld to the left is the join where it looks black, and the weld to the right is on a clean untouch peice of pipe and that turned out fine. All settings were kept the same and technique as close as to what i would have done at the join. Maybe i just need to purge..
  5. So I kept the settings all the same, speed and technique the same but instead of welding two pieces of steel together, I just laid a weld beside one I had done previously. Safe to say it's not too hot? And it could possibly be the cut or even crap from beneath coming up and contaminating the weld? Thoughts?
  6. From what I understand, purging is generally to achieve food grade welds or even more penetration. With intercooler piping, fusing is generally enough, but adding filler will strength the join for say, exhausts. I'll give it a crack on a section of pipe which I haven't cut at all and see the difference (if any), but at this stage, I think there's too much heat going into the weld. Might have to use filler to control it. I'll keep you all posted when I find the solution lol
  7. I tried cranking the gas up to about 12-13ltrs/min and there hasn't been a massive improvement (if any at all to be honest). My practice welds in the past has been with filler and it's come out cleaner which leads me to believe the weld might be a little too hot when I'm fusing. I move the puddle along as soon as the two pieces have fused though which is why this is all confusing to me. 304 stainless is what I'm using.
  8. I've turned the gas up to about 12-13ltr/min and it has slightly improved but it's still not as clean as yours above. Welding is performed indoors with very little if any wind and I'm using no.6 cup. I believe it is on the smaller side but shouldn't be a massive issue? My weld above is on 30amps. I've tried cracking the amperage up and there's little difference in finish. I just have to move a lot quicker with the higher amps before it blows through. Being a lift TIG, there's only a button for the arc to strike and when to turn off so it is a little hard to control amperage mid weld. Here's a picture of the inside.
  9. I'm doing a circular motion going from one piece to another and I am moving off as soon as I see the pool merge/fuse. I'll take a few snaps of the inside of the tube tomorrow but there's definitely no penetration through the steel (honestly didn't think it needed it being non structural). I'll give it another crack tomorrow on a higher amperage but I believe it just discoloured the steel too much (overheated) when I had higher amperage. I might give it another go but move a little faster too.
  10. Hey all.. I'm just after a bit of advice and tips from those who have done this for much longer than I have. A bit of background information, I'm using a Cigweld Transmig 175i inverter which can perform the stick, mig and lift DC tig welds. I've welded up lobster bends for an intercooler pipe and I'm getting what looks to be contamination in the welds. I'm not sure where it's coming from so any advice would be great, on that matter and anything else which doesn't look right. Well here's the welds. I'm using 304 stainless, 2.5" tube. Red tip tungsten, 1.6mm from memory, about 30amps, pure argon gas from Supagas, about 8-10ltrs/min of flow. No purging was performed. I think the issue I'm getting is from the cuts which I am performing with a traditional drop saw. Heaps of cleaning up was required. Would the drop saw cause the contamination in the welds or is it something else? Something I've completely missed as a noob? Any help would be appreciated. EDIT: Welds were performed by fusion only, no filler rods were used unless the gaps between the two pieces got a little too large to fuse. Cheers, Adam
  11. jzx100 Problem

    There'll be two plugs near the throttle body, one for the ETCS and the other for the TPS. If you had the TPS disconnected, I think you'd notice it by now lol Car would be an absolute dog to drive. As for the lights flashing when you turn your car on, that's normal. I think my airbag light or something comes on for a few seconds then disappears. Wouldn't worry about that too much. If you've got the ETCS plug disconnected and you're still struggling to do skids, I'd say your diff is an open wheeler.
  12. jzx100 Problem

    When you undo the ETCS plug in the engine bay, your snow mode and traction control lights should flash back and forth on your cluster (unless the globes have been ripped out previously). Was it a factory manual? It might still have an open wheeler if auto - manual convert. As for workshop, facebook '612 autoworks'. It's an after hours workshop mainly focusing on JZXs.
  13. Time attack peeps - Let's talk Tyres

    I can't seem to find much information on them but I think that's enough for me to avoid them. Thanks Looks like it'll be Z214s, V710s or R6s!
  14. Time attack peeps - Let's talk Tyres

    Continuing this thread on, has anyone compared the FZ201 and the D03Gs? From my understanding, the 03Gs are up there (but not quite) with the Z221s and A050s. How do the FZ201s compare to the old RE55s? I've only used the D03Gs in their soft compound before but it's time to get new semis but I can't afford Dunlop prices And finally, where do people buy their tyres from?
  15. Time Attack Leader Board VIC

    Yeah new engine is in and testing at winton this sunday. See if we can get a 1:30! Good work Adam. 1:40 in a full weight car with 200kw is impressive. Thanks mate! YOUR times are impressive! haha It will be interesting to see how much quicker you can go with that car.
×