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Posts posted by buoy

  1. Ok, the oil wont cake, but those few weeks before your service, what about all the crap and sh*t thats in your oil. All the carbon + crap thats gotten past your rings into your oil will cake on your bearings.

    Its interesting you brought up that point. These external sources, mostly water vapour and tiny particles are trapped by the oil. The oil then starts to lose its lubricating properties with more buildup. The only way to combat this is to change your oil regularly and keep a nice and fresh oil filter in your car. Also the "crap" is burnt off with higher temperatures which is one of the ways the engine actually relies upon (heat) to get rid of water vapour.

    Synthetic oil is great...... but its not immortal. You must change your oil and oil filter often. The more often the better.


  2. redline shockproof is pretty much the best gear oil you can get... i'm putting it in my car too.

    if you have trouble shifting gears and want to fix bad synchros (well, not really fix but cover up the problem) use gm synchromesh. This oil emphasises the synchros ability to function so if you are after the best possible silky smooth shift, this is the stuff that does it. however, if you really thrash the gearbox then gm synchromesh may prove to be a little bit more corrosive on your gear synchros than say redline shockproof, so its up to you.


  3. Ok. Basically the whole point of letting the turbine cool down is to prevent the oil from coking.

    First a little introduction into oil coking in case you're wondering: Oil "coking" is the breaking down and caking of motor oil that takes place when temperatures exceed 330 degrees Fahrenheit. This is the primary reason for turbo failure, or more accurately bearing failure. Once the bearings fail, the turbines seize, the engine oil that cools and lubricates the turbos blows into the intake track of the turbo, and is last seen leaving the exhaust tip as a light blue haze. This expensive and premature tragedy can be prevented through proper cooling of the turbos.

    With most cars nowadays running synthetic motor oil... and I mean a PURELY synthetic motor oil, the ability for the oil to "coke" is bloody hard! I mean, the whole point of synthetic motor-oil is it keeps its lubricating properties under intense temperature and pressure. Where "normal" refined motor-oils will produce the coking traits above 330 degrees farenheit... I have yet to see a synthetic motor oil even brake down! I mean, the triple polymer base would mean it will brake down at temperatures that would melt the turbine housings itself!!!

    Now if you think oh yeah, better be safe than sorry..... look, check this article out:

    Synthetic Oil Solves Turbocharger Problem

    From "The Practical Handbook of Machinery Lubrication":

    A construction equipment contractor was experiencing premature turbocharger failures when certain engines were operated under full load conditions and used around the clock. Investigation through oil analysis and diagnosis of the failed components, revealed that the failures were caused by coking of the petroleum base oil within the turbocharger oil passages, thus restricting oil flow and resulting in bearing failure.

    The initial cause of the oil coking condition was excessive temperatures within the turbocharger housing. A fully synthetic diesel engine oil was selected of the same viscosity as the original petroleum base mineral oil and installed. Premature turbocharger failures did not reoccur and oil temperatures dropped by about eight degrees Fahrenheit.

    If you want to know the origin of that page, it is: http://www.lube-tips.com/BackIssues/2002-07-17.htm somewhere down the page.

    I don't know about you, but when a market springs up, if their usefulness is reduced the players within that market get ticked off (read tobacco industry et al). So, I suspect the people developing turbo timers are hoping people cling to their old habbits and old superstitions about "saving their turbo!" by making them "cool down" properly!

    The bottom line is, using a synthetic motor oil, unless you've belted out a few laps of calder with Skaife at the wheel of your pride and joy..... the oil in your car won't coke. If it doesn't coke, the whole purpose of turbo-timing is negated.

    For most people, they don't thrash it constantly, even if they do they usually drive it nicely for at least the last minute when they are getting closer to their destination. By that time the oil is wayyy under any dangerously high temperatures including turbine shaft temps... and by the time they get their car up the drive way and sort themselves out, just idle it for 10-15 sec then turn it off.