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Posts posted by buoy

  1. Greddy make great coolers. The greddy IC (stock position 192 x 250 x 119mm) for the MR2 can support 350rwhp without a problem, as people are using it in the states with that much power. Theres even a guy running around 412rwhp with that Greddy IC. They make a good series of coolers.

    Greddy and Trust actually can brand the same coolers so I'd check which one is the cheapest and go for that one.

  2. have you gotten your guards lipped?

    and for the front, perhaps you should consider getting 215 or even 205s. It's probably safer too, since it will hopefully encourage your car to start to understeer if you are going near the limit in a corner, which is better than neutral shifting to oversteer. You want oversteer, just press the throttle, you'll oversteer... just good to understeer the rest of the time. :)

  3. If only NOS was legal... you'd keep the standard turbo, do basic mods and have a nos kit for that extra kick whenever you need it. cos really... when you are spending 98% of all your time not pushing the car, NOS does look like a pretty good thing for the 2% of time when you're scrambling past 5000rpm and need a sugar hit (for the engine, I mean lol).

  4. well then look at the R34 GT-R... it's got an exhaust restriction on/off switch you can change in-cabin.

    But if you really need something in-cabin then I'd suggest you have a switch that loosens the throttle cable or like one of the many tricks the guys that rent out ferraris and other exotic cars use . the suggestions that have been given so far sound good too.


    EDIT: BTW when I meant exhaust restrictor I mean a piece of metal / tip that fastens itself over the exhaust tip that has a smaller opening. You should be able to screw it on. I've seen some that actually sit inside the muffler tip - they are also known as silencers like on the BLITZ NUR-SPEC exhaust. They reduce power considerably but also noise. You can make up your own silencer/exhaust tip. All you have to do is put it on when you want less power and take it off when you want the power. Thats it.


  5. my goodness goodness goodness... peoples...

    put a restrictive muffler tip with silencer - and i'm talking real restrictive. the engine will run nicely but with less power. that's it. you are simply increasing back-pressure which prevents the turbo from spinning quicker and preventing more exhaust gasses from exiting. Effect: Less efficient air pump.

    I had a clogged cat on my mr2 for the first 6 months and it was camry fast but sounded great.

    oh, and it won't damage anything either, since not enough power can be generated in the first place. You AFM or MAP sensor will detect less air can be sucked in and put in less fuel... and the boost will rise slower and peak at less. If more choking is required, make tip more restrictive. That's it.


  6. if you want to build a killer na i would say build a v8 or rotary. (don't be hatin ok! ) the reason being v8s by design are very inefficient when bottled up with small intakes, exhaust, etc to keep them sociable. A tuned V8 sounds really mean and a ported rotary is big power with small dosh. v8s will cost a heap more than a rotary to "do up" of course lol!

    2L NAs are good but really... a 2L is good for a turbo application... not really enough displacement and low-down torque (with a big cam) to compare with what the bigger engines can do.

  7. quad or "individual throttle butterflies" will get you 30% or so more power depending on how bad the standard throttle body was. of course to maximise this you should get cams and push the rev range up to take advantage of all the potential intake air and get a bigger free flowing exhaust too.

    30% is just a baseline figure. If you are making a dedicated race car (which you're probably not lol) but just for arguments sake, you can get it to over double the factory figure. An SR20 producing over 200kw at 9000rpm is achieveable. Even then you could push it way further to 250kw and beyond. NA power. Don't bother driving it as a daily or even trying to register it tho . If you want a 200kw 2L N/A... buy an S2000

  8. If you say I'm missing the point then what exactly _is_ your point?

    I can only assume you have a problem believing Redline in that they have an oil that has a higher viscosity rating and yet less internal fluid friction which makes it more watery because the oil slides over itself a lot easier!

    I believe that is your point. You simply don't believe them when they say "This revolutionary lubricant is completely different from conventional lubricant technology" and that is your right as a consumer. And if it is, let's just agree to disagree. I respect your right to challenge their claims. We all have that right. I just haven't seen a tidal wave of complaints or concern. I've seen more people strongly agree/disagree over GM Synchromesh than Redline shockproof

    And to be perfectly honest, I have not seen one iota of marketing from Redline. No ads, no posters. Nothing. I knew about them from word of mouth. From people who use their product and endorse it. The marketing people can say all they want... I haven't heard them. My decision wasn't based on what they said.

  9. Red Line Synthetic ShockProof TM Gear Oil provides unequalled protection for high-performance differentials and transmissions which are heavily loaded or which see shock-loading. This revolutionary lubricant is completely different from conventional lubricant technology in several ways. The viscosity characteristics are significantly improved. Gear teeth need high viscosity at high temperatures to prevent metal-to-metal contact and a low viscosity when cold to reduce fluid friction. The ShockProofTM chemistry significantly reduces the thinning effect of high-temperatures.

    The Heavy can be rated as a 75W250 Gear Oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 75W90. The LightWeight can be rated as a 75W140 Gear Oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 30 motor oil. The SuperLight can be rated as a 70W90 Gear Oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an ATF. These ShockProofTM lubricants provide much greater viscosity in the thin layers between the gear teeth, but have very low internal fluid friction, which means very little power loss for the protection achieved.

    ShockProofTM Gear Oil has a 40% lower coefficient of friction and 250% the load-carrying capacity compared to conventional gear oils, which means that metal- to-metal friction is greatly reduced. Temperature reductions between 25°F - 75°F are common in circle track, road racing, and off-road racing. Improved durability in high-performance use is the primary benefit of the Heavy ShockProofTM and along with the improved durability is an improvement in efficiency, but if further improvements in efficiency are desired, and durability is not a major concern, LightWeight and SuperLight ShockProof TM can be used.

    That was taken from this website here. Now you probably need to read the whole thing to get what they are saying. They are saying this:

    BLUE section: BOTH Heavy and Light provide GREATER protection than standard gearbox oil which are heavily loaded (extreme load like high accel or weight) or which see shock loading (sudden extreme load like dumping the clutch). This applies to ALL - MT90, Heavy, Light and Superlight. ALL of them are providing greater protection but at varying levels OF protection.

    GREEN section: This is just explaining to experienced oil people that these oils LOOK like thinner oils but that is of NO CONCERN. They then go on to say that since it is thinner, it still provides GREATER protection between the teeth - and the item "very little power loss for the protection achieved" simply restates that protection is at certain levels from Heavy, Light and Super Light... depending on your application.

    RED section: Pretty self explanatory. I'll only add that the last section DOES NOT mean Light or Superlight is BAD!  Absolutely not! It is just stating to their market who are professionals that if you ARE focusing on endurance then you should be using the Heavy... but if it is not of MAJOR concern use the lighter ones. What they don't say and what they should say, if you REALLY want to stuff up your gearbox and durability and performance is of NO concern use the standard stuff! lol.

    So, perhaps a little diagram to wrap up. This is not to any scale, just to show you what they are talking about. If you are in the Bathurst 24hr, what oil would you use? Or, if you are drag racing and your gearbox is going to be ripped after 20 runs anyway you would use a different oil which makes your gear changes less likely to stuff up.

    ----(Low)------ Level of protection -------(High)----

    ========== Standard Oil

    ============= Super Light

    =================== Light

    ======================== Heavy

  10. As soon as you put big rims on your car and lower it, your N/A will be slower than stock. Because

    A. You've got bigger, usually heavier rims. Take longer to spin and all the gear ratios are effectively taller when rolling on the road.

    B. You've lowered your car, so the weight transfer is less, so when you "launch" it, less weight will be transferred to the rear wheels and therefore your traction limit will be less.

    So if you want your N/A car to go hard, perhaps get wider tyres, a 2¼" exhaust and a set of extractors. Uni chip it even. I'd say with the power you'd gain, you would be disappointed, so I'd not spend any more money on it. Sell it and get a turbo'd one.

  11. If you want huge BOV noises while revving in idle, fit a heavy flywheel. You will increase the power required to motivate the drivetrain and thus increase the loading on the engine.

    A car with extremely low no drivetrain loss (no such car exists but anyway) would have no ability to build boost at idle, using gears to slow down the vehicle will have little or no effect since there is no inertia that can be absorbed by the drivetrain and the hp at the wheels will be almost the same as at the engine.  man, wheres all that super light frictionless space-age technology going to be put into cars!!!!! lol!

  12. As long as the turbo is within its efficiency range and the maximum and minimum pressure fluctuations are also within the turbos efficiency range, it wouldn't really be a reliability concern - but if the turbo is near the edge of its efficiency envelope and the flutter is causing overspeeding of the turbine at a level outside its operating area of reliability then it is a concern.

    So I'd say everyone has valid points to both sides of the argument since you may have flutter but the turbo will be reliable, and you can also have flutter in such a way that it makes the turbo less reliable. the only way that comes to mind is in a boosted situation.