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buoy

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Everything posted by buoy

  1. firstly, you can't put a 3sgte north-south easily as there are no provisions for the mounting of the engine in that position. the 3s is always either fwd or awd... (rwd in mr2 but the engine is at the back). if you do want north/south mounting you'll have to do a lot of fiddling and customising. secondly, the 3s is still in production and can make a heck of a lot more power without as many strengthening mods as an sr20. puts flame suit on the block is iron which can handle a heap of punshment and horsepower compared with the alloy sr20 block. the head is flowed by yamaha. it has a forged motor from factory bar the pistons. it has 440cc injectors... standard (on later models 550cc standard). really, just bolting on a PE1919 turbo and winding up the boost to 17psi is all that is really necessary to get to around 300rwhp (above 17 it is recommended forged pistons) as the ignition and fuel system is up to the task, as is the motor. With the Supras in the JTCC running 3S-GTE motors, i don't see sr20s being dropped in to the GT-Rs - damn that would be crazy to watch!!! -- but anyway... why my post? well, i've kept quiet every time i've seen a "sr20 will make more power than a 3sgte" comment, which there are a gazillion of here lol! Why does it make more power? Ohhh... intercooler... front mount... well, for the mr2 that is a prob, but a 3S up front won't have that problem and as the valvetrain is setup to rev more freely into the 8000-9000 rpm range, the 3S doesn't have too much trouble when it comes to slapping on massive t[insert massive turbine # here]'s. finally, it's true there is a heap of aftermarket for the sr20, and on a budget you'd be able to find someone to do up the sr20 a lot sooner than the elusive 3s-gte...... but in Japan, the 3S-GTE *is* the 2.0L motor of choice. Internally, the 3S is as strong as a 300ZX motor... both capable of taking around 600 horsepower with stock internals (well, ok the 3S was proven to 550 on stock internals, but that motor had 150,000 miles on it and was thrashed so they just put the power through the roof to see when it would break lol!). Several thrashed months later, it finally did brake . I'd say if you don't have much to spend and don't like mucking about and your hp goal is 300-400, go the sr20 --- can't go wrong. if you like to muck around, have more to spend (lol) and have a 500hp goal, go the 3s. you won't need to strengthen the motor at that hp goal... so just spend your money on bolt-ons, cams, ems, injectors, fuel pump etc... buoy37895.1702546296
  2. Well, engines with a short stroke have less torque, buy tend to rev higher. Can't beat those old 1920's Packard Twin Sixes, mate. Side-valve design. Stroke as long-as... bore as tiny as... would produce incredible torque and you look at the hp ratings on it and were baffled at how low it is cos the engines would only rev to a few grand. http://www.vintagepackards.com/manual_preview.asp
  3. Yes thats right. Let me put a few more figs in: RB20DET Bore: 78mm Stroke: 69.7mm RB26DETT Bore: 86mm Stroke: 73.7mm Over square engines will produce less torque compared with an under square engine of the same capacity and design. The RB20 is designed really to rev as you can see. Also, since you've got more cylinders, the power delivery should technically be smoother, as with idle all the way up to redline. Specifically inline six is notorious for producing silky smooth revving nissan engines.
  4. could be an earthing problem with the battery. did you go over a bump? perhaps the battery circuit disconnected for a split second. that coudl do it. maybe you could check your terminals. looks like the problem was already pointed out but heres another thing to check for next time .
  5. 2530 or 2540

    what is your power goal? it depends which will be pushed... are you going to be pushing your engine or pushing your turbo? usually its the engine that is the weakest link. but since you did a rebuild i dont know... the 2530 would be what i'd get. it would probably be quicker in 1st and 2nd as you'll be almost as long waiting for the 40 to spool as it is to go around the tacho.... 3rd gear + the 40 will be sweet. so, do you usually wind your beast past 100km/hr? if not. 2530. is your goal quarter-mile timeslip based? 2540. dyno queen? 2540. good all rounder? 2530. i guess its up to you. what you want it for. for street, the 2530 is more "street" practical. but the difference are slight depending on who you ask. some people may be hella fine with a 40 spool time. perhaps you'd be happy with it. up to u.
  6. Idle Problem

    yep. although its probably something simple, here are some possibilities: * idle rpm may be too low * afm sensors clogged up * perhaps your thermostat sensor is gone? and the engine is running overly rich on idle * or; your o2 sensors are shot which would make the closed loop not even engage and idle very rich or very lean * your o2 sensors could be plugged in the WRONG WAY! So say cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 are the other way round, so the ECU is reading the output of 1 & 3, trying to compensate but its actually the reading from 2 & 4. So the ECU is running super rich then super lean ... yadda yadda yadda. * Fuel pump may be on its last legs? * Injectors need a clean
  7. Sometimes you can't really tell if its not too lean. Easy way is to pull your plugs. Inspect the plug. If it is a) black - you're rich! white - you're lean! c) clean - you're stoich! lambda. tuned to perfection. nb: after HARD driving even a tuned car should show plugs that are a bit black... cos at w.o.t. it is safer to be rich than lean. buoy37854.8496759259
  8. Cat Meltdown

    it can cause an exhaust restriction. depends how the cat was destroyed. see also: http://www.pandablue.com/nissansilvia/foru...ID=12872&KW buoy37849.8408333333
  9. Anyone know where you can get a CO2 intercooler spray kit in Australia? looks like a darned great idea. FYI I found these threads on the wrx forums: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread/t-373591.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread/t-387140.html buoy37845.3555092593
  10. Well...... seeing as this is an internal combustion engine, and CO2 is the resultant gas post-combustion, it wouldn't really do anything except pass through the engine and perhaps give a bit of cooling. Hmmmm..... naah I dont see any point. If it was O2...... then thats a different story .
  11. you can but its expensive stuff...... they make the piping very narrow which minimises lag, but because of the distance and air velocity, you get a hesitiation of up to a third of a second more than usual. A third of a second is quite a lot when we're talking about on/off throttle...tsk tsk! --- I dont think its worth it. I havent seen anyone in this country at least do a FMIC on a 2 lol! This CO2 ic stuff will be good. Spray for 2 seconds and that blindingly hot summer's day the car's been feeling sluggish in suddenly starts running as if it were the middle of winter! lol!
  12. Yeah I spoke with Brett and Marcus from MRT. They are in the process of importing the kit in to Australia. They are getting back to me today or tomorrow. DaFROG: Well the CO2 is damn cold when it comes out. It's as cold as NOS when it comes out (approx. of course) but of course CO2 is peanuts to refil as opposed to NOS. Enough to un-heatsoak a heatsoaked IC. It's been pretty successful in the US, so I'm going for it. Beats water spray (but not water injection like aquamist). Just before a run, or "drag", you spray and basically the car responds as if it was a cold night. I'm not a professional on the drag circuit so my cooling goals are quite modest. Cost around $2 per pound to refill the tank and the tank is around 10 pounds. One tank is said to be enough for 90 "sprays" and if you're only using it as a heatsoak / hot summer's day on high boost precaution then I'm thinking its worth it to me. I hope its around ~$450 mark. Any more and I might as well just get a bigger i.c. from Plazmaman.
  13. 13b rotary into s13

    if I keep my car for another decade or 2, or am still interested in the little MR2, I'll remove the wall between the engine bay and the boot to make one big engine bay and somehow I'll put a bloody great big twin turbo v8 into it. Yeah. Perhaps when I'm going through my 40th birthday mid-life-crisis stage. lol... or just do like everyone else and buy a 911 turbo. hrm....... Variety is the spice of life! If it brings you joy, do it. f**k what everyone else thinks. If you do what OTHER people think, you're not going to be happy. So, be happy! Thats all everyone wants in life. To be happy.
  14. Hang on..... yeah those are the WRX forums but for the USA, not AUS. Aah well if they got them in the states he can damn well ship them in! lol!
  15. fffarq! that was quick, qik!!! thanks! yeah i know where they are they were on the way to Macquarie Uni in Ryde.... used to pass them every day back in the mid 90s lol! i'll call them up. thanks.
  16. Ever been driving and wondered who farted? But theres nobody around but you and some traffic? Well you aren't imagining things! You were smelling some other vehicles CAT! lol! ROTTEN EGG SMELL FROM CATALYTIC CONVERTER The sulphur smell from the exhaust, is actually caused by running the engine/cat convertor slightly lean for long periods and then running under a rich condition (ie going up a hill under heavy load) This is when the sulphur smell (rotten egg) is produced. Under relatively lean conditions, the sulphur found in gasoline is converted to sulphur trioxide, then during the rich running condition the sulfur trioxide is converted into hydrogen sulphide (rotten egg smell) within the catalytic converter.
  17. s14 dies in the ........

    i think you can stuff up your afm sensor if you clean it vigorously.... or put it back wrong lol so perhaps you may need a new afm. if that is the case its not too bad.....
  18. yep. believe it or not... a coke can fits under my car. I can go in and out of burwood, hurstville, even lane cove shopping centres... no prob. no angling, no sideways stuff. just drive & go.
  19. Firstly, this is an MR2 I'll be talking about - just so there is no confusion. RICH AFR KILLS CAT... AGAIN! After boosting the original engine from 9psi to 14psi and removing the original plugged catalytic converter, I dynoed the little MR2 at a nice and healthy 156rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno. I was happy. New cat. Feels fast. Sweet. -- cut to 3 months later -- Probably getting used to all that speed now. When I hit 'the boost switch' as I call it, you get the power (we all like the power!) but at night I notice this pile of black smoke out the back. Obviously the car is running a little rich. How rich? A little... but was I in for a shock. I take it to the Ricol Automotive Dyno Day. My car gets put on. Dyno Dynamics again... revs it up. 128rwkw mate. wtf? Do it again! Yep... same. Why? Well, she's running really rich. LESS than 10:1 AFR. . Now here's the thing: How can you lose 30rwkw over 3 months? Firstly, I think its not really 30rwkw. It's probably really close to the same power output, but its a different dyno. I do believe it is producing less power as it doesnt feel as fast, but that is subjective. The problem is, on the 3S-GTE, the engine comes standard with 440cc injectors. Standard (The type III 3S-GTE comes with 550cc and MAP sensor, but mints AFM). Unfortunately 440cc injectors running flat out at only 14psi boost can really richen up the mixture. So much so, that it can clog up the cat! The more clogged the cat gets, the more a restriction in the exhaust it becomes. The more restriction in the exhaust, the less efficient the exhaust becomes. The less efficient the exhaust, the less powerful the engine. Thus, we've arrived at the source of the entire dilemma. So, what to do? The cat will eventually crap itself if I keep flipping the switch. Basically that is the blueprint of having a fang in the car. Flip the switch. Give the throttle a bootful. Then... well... stop! Thus SJM Auto-Technik describes the situation in which a catalytic converter will melt on their web page: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/exhaust.html : Catalytic Converter meltdown can occur with overly rich mixtures at sustained full throttle running when immediately followed by normal lean running or idling. So there you have it. I'm keeping my car off the high boost for now. I'll have to do the following: 1. Purchase another CAT (as this one is perhaps half melted already!) 2. Invest in an S-AFC to lean out the mixtures on high-boost. I'll have to pay for dyno time etc. Prolly Ricol can do this as that is what they suggested. So the moral of this story is what? If you're running too rich! You're gonna kill your cat! Even though the SR20 only has 370cc injectors stock, thats still enough to kill a cat I'm sure. So, if you notice your car is getting a bit slow over the last few months (but you mistake it for "getting used to the power") and you've just installed a boost tap... remember this post! lol! ciao.
  20. usually an ecu will have a fuel map for boost and rpm but above a certain boost it has no idea how much fuel to use... so it just goes nuts and dumps as much fuel as it can into the engine. if you see the "haze" from the headlights of the car behind you, then that should be unburnt fuel. I have tested this on my own car with and without the switch. It only happens with the switch on. In fact, sometimes it is so rich in my car with the switch on, I can see it during the daytime in my rear view mirror. So to answer your question, your ECU will dump more fuel if it doesnt know whats going on. But better get the AFR's via a dyno just to make sure. As for the cat problem... the only way to save your cat is via a proper tune. This would require *minimum* an air/fuel computer... eg S-AFC. Better yet an aftermarket or piggy ECU.
  21. the cat contains rhodium which is an expensive noble metal for NOx reduction and platinum. 12.6:1 is optimal for power. 14.7:1 is "the" optimal for all fuel to be burnt.
  22. I just reread my post above and it stinks lol and i cant edit it. Under load, turbo cars especially move to rich even if they are stock. 12.6:1 is the figure to be at for maximum power under load. But that shouldn't make the egg smell. Usually some run down injector or carby system with clogged fuel system will cause this... and/or a car that can't get back into closed loop operation and begins to idle really rich (after being really lean while driving). Thus when they "go" again at the lights, all this rotten egg smell comes out of their exhaust.
  23. no no no no. If your car is running lean (ie AFR higher than stoich or 14.7:1) for prolonged periods of time, then running rich, this causes it. While running lean, the cat is turning sulphur into sulphur trioxide. While running rich, the cat then suddenly turns the lingering sulphur trioxide into hydrogen sulphide (rotten egg smell). A catalyst is something that needs to be there in order for a chemical reaction to occur, but the catalyst is not changed or used up after the reaction. Hence the name, catalytic converter. Catalytic in that it has a precious metal that is required as a catalyst for a chemical reaction (ie poisonus gasses coming from engine via exhaust), converter in that it converts these poisonous gasses into forms that are less harmful or not harmful to the atmosphere.
  24. If you gut your cat and you install a b.o.v with afm that vents to atmosphere... yeah you can pop flames during gear changes no problemo lol
  25. Ok. Basically the whole point of letting the turbine cool down is to prevent the oil from coking. First a little introduction into oil coking in case you're wondering: Oil "coking" is the breaking down and caking of motor oil that takes place when temperatures exceed 330 degrees Fahrenheit. This is the primary reason for turbo failure, or more accurately bearing failure. Once the bearings fail, the turbines seize, the engine oil that cools and lubricates the turbos blows into the intake track of the turbo, and is last seen leaving the exhaust tip as a light blue haze. This expensive and premature tragedy can be prevented through proper cooling of the turbos. With most cars nowadays running synthetic motor oil... and I mean a PURELY synthetic motor oil, the ability for the oil to "coke" is bloody hard! I mean, the whole point of synthetic motor-oil is it keeps its lubricating properties under intense temperature and pressure. Where "normal" refined motor-oils will produce the coking traits above 330 degrees farenheit... I have yet to see a synthetic motor oil even brake down! I mean, the triple polymer base would mean it will brake down at temperatures that would melt the turbine housings itself!!! Now if you think oh yeah, better be safe than sorry..... look, check this article out: Synthetic Oil Solves Turbocharger Problem From "The Practical Handbook of Machinery Lubrication": A construction equipment contractor was experiencing premature turbocharger failures when certain engines were operated under full load conditions and used around the clock. Investigation through oil analysis and diagnosis of the failed components, revealed that the failures were caused by coking of the petroleum base oil within the turbocharger oil passages, thus restricting oil flow and resulting in bearing failure. The initial cause of the oil coking condition was excessive temperatures within the turbocharger housing. A fully synthetic diesel engine oil was selected of the same viscosity as the original petroleum base mineral oil and installed. Premature turbocharger failures did not reoccur and oil temperatures dropped by about eight degrees Fahrenheit. If you want to know the origin of that page, it is: http://www.lube-tips.com/BackIssues/2002-07-17.htm somewhere down the page. I don't know about you, but when a market springs up, if their usefulness is reduced the players within that market get ticked off (read tobacco industry et al). So, I suspect the people developing turbo timers are hoping people cling to their old habbits and old superstitions about "saving their turbo!" by making them "cool down" properly! The bottom line is, using a synthetic motor oil, unless you've belted out a few laps of calder with Skaife at the wheel of your pride and joy..... the oil in your car won't coke. If it doesn't coke, the whole purpose of turbo-timing is negated. For most people, they don't thrash it constantly, even if they do they usually drive it nicely for at least the last minute when they are getting closer to their destination. By that time the oil is wayyy under any dangerously high temperatures including turbine shaft temps... and by the time they get their car up the drive way and sort themselves out, just idle it for 10-15 sec then turn it off.
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