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buoy

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Everything posted by buoy

  1. may need some real heft getting it off the line clutch and tranny may be torqued out at low revs... especially if starting from an incline.
  2. since there are 3 sides to the rotor, and completing one helical pattern for the equivalent of intake, combustion and exhaust does take 3 turns and since a 4-stroke fires every 2nd stroke it depends on how you interpret it. - lol - aah well. whatever it is it looks like somewhere inbetween 1.3L and 2.6Lbuoy37916.3957523148
  3. Well, the renesis engine should be comparable to a 2.6L piston engine in fuel consumption... also the fact that this is an engine designed more for performance than economy. If they were to make the mazda equivalent of a camry and used a renesis that was detuned and had very conservative fuel usage you would see perhaps a 130bhp 1.3L rotary renesis capable of good fuel economy in a small family car. That sort of thing....
  4. rotary's only chew up a lot of excess fuel if they aren't tuned properly (which is most of them lol!!!) --- but if you do it right it will not be any worse than a piston powered car. the 13b in a light car is a joy
  5. sr20 LONGEVITY mods

    yeah... just equate reliability to 2 things: tuning and cooling You get those 2 spot on, the reliability will take care of itself.
  6. To make the turbo spool up faster on the street, you can: - Get an EBC - holds the wastegate closed for as long as possible to aid spool-up that pneumatic valves can't immitate. - If you have an aftermarket ECU, lean out the A/F ratio just before the turbo spools - this will heat exhaust gasses aiding in their "expansion" and exit speed out of the exhaust turbine, thus aiding spool-up. You can get a good couple hundred rpm sooner spool-up... even 500rpm sooner if it was running pretty rich. - Change your cams to aid spool-up. This will almost certainly result in less fuel efficiency but if you want the cams to work for the spool not for fuel conservation, do that. - Finally, if you haven't done so already get a good dump pipe and exhaust system that is as least restrictive as possible. You'll lose torque earlier on the rev range and the "on" boost feeling will be a lot more noticeable, but it will aid spool-up.
  7. A cheap route is the VG 30 turbo. (from meggala.com): The vg 30 turbo(from the vg30det not the twin turbo dett) is a non ballbearing ceramic turbo that can handle quite a bit of boost up to 16-17 psi it starts spooling around 3000 3200 and is at full boost by 4000 and really kicks at 5000. nice and hard and fast in an rb20 it could make 190 rwkw
  8. Idle Speed

    Heheh this is funny. Just last week some guy had his idle at 1100rpm and wanted to know how to get it back down to 750-800 lol!!!
  9. How does a Dyno Work???

    yeah - the rollers are a known weight and the resistence can be measured ie torque required to move them. the equation for horsepower is generally horsepower = torque * rpm / 5252 now this rpm thing is what can throw dynos off. are your wheels too big? i think some dynos say drive up to xxx km/hr and punch in the speed and it is able to work around your tyre size difference BUT only if it knows your gear ratio, which it would default to 1:1 on 4th... assuming that is what you've got on ur car. so some dynos can read differently. there are also elevation issues - how high are you from sea level? this would affect things like the wastegate and boost-level of your car. the higher you go, the less horsepower your car can make. For instance, the ct26 on my car is able to product 14.7psi at sea level and 11.1psi at 7,500 feet above sea level at the SAME shaft speed of the turbine. So, this has to be factored in as well. also, ambient temp. there is a rough guide floating around that a 10 degree drop in ambient temp results in a 1% gain in hp... or something to that end. i'm not sure if it is that accurate and is only a guide. i also believe that is for the farenheit scale so dont try working with it in celsius. if your dyno is reading your RPM incorrectly you could get MORE or LESS power depending on how far off you were. For instance, if your engine was producing 300ft-lbs of torque at 4000rpm but you told the dyno this torque figure was at 4500rpm, this is what the difference would be: hp at 4000rpm = 300 x 4000 / 5252 ---> 228rwhp hp at 4500rpm = 300 x 4500 / 5252 ---> 257rwhp So you can see by the above if you are just 500rpm off of what the dyno THINKs you are at opposed to where you ARE at can give you really different dyno figures.
  10. A good place would have been Online Performance (www.onlineperformance.com.au) but they've been so inundated with work and their drag car's doing the rounds, it would be hard for them to do anything for ya. The waiting list for major mods over there is like 3 months lol! They are familiar with MicroTech, but they are actually moving towards a full Motec system ($6,000+) on their drag car. Even so, for fabricating stuff like manifolds - if you can get them to do it - they do a great job.
  11. air filters

    Really, at the end of the day, having less petrol in your tank is going to make more difference than an air filter would, even on a turbo car. Of course, if you have done a fair few mods and are pushing decent power figures the air filter can release more horsepower but if its the only mod you've done don't expect to be pushed back in your seat lol! You may get a nice wooshing sound which is the air sucking through the filter. It depends how restrictive your current air filter is, and even then the compressor can almost totally compensate for this. I'd just get a nice free-flowing pod... and make sure its getting cold-air. This can be just as important, if not more important, than which brand of filter you wish to get. Having an exposed pod filter inside your engine bay on a hot day could actually be detrimental to performance.
  12. 1100 rpm idle

    could be the idle screw is too tight. could be the thermostat isn't giving a correct temp reading for the ecu and/or a different type of thermostat was required for that ecu. hopefully its one of those two
  13. I think for an NA, 2" is the best. 2¼" max. You'll lose low-end torque any higher with negligible top-end gain in comparison to the 2¼ or 2.
  14. First this, Ummm... no, they aren't. Look: Then this, Stock? Which is what we're asking here......... and the answer is: No. To run above 1 bar on the stock ECU is very bad. You can run 17psi if you want... but its getting dangerous. And finally, Mine aint nothing special, dude It's quite tame, infact. 156rwkw is just 210rwhp. That's nothing. Here's a bit out of the 3S-GTE primer: Just as a side note: The amounts are in US dollars, and it is referring to the US-Spec Gen II 3S-GTE, which has 2 catalytic converters and ECU map for US Spec 91-93 PULP. Standard output for the US-Spec 3S-GTE is 200bhp. Oh and fyi: 170rwhp = 125rwkw, 210rwhp = 156rwkw, 245rwhp = 182rwkw, 300rwhp = 220rwkw. buoy37895.5337268518
  15. _omg you're comparing the best SR20 ever produced, one which is almost non-existent outside of Japan, to my 1989 3S-GTE . Let's talk about the 370cc ones. If you're going to talk 480cc, talk to mister_two and his (8-year-old) 96 MR2 GTS with 550cc injectors stock. That should be better. Otherwise if you're going to compare the SR20VET to my 3S-GTE then OKAY you win! grrrrr lol
  16. I think 4th is pretty close to 1:1. And yes, the drivetrain losses are around the 19% (on the standard car). The problem is they need a decent fan to cool both the radiator at the front and the intercooler on the side ... but I suppose with the cryo kit I could just spray it cool. come to think of it the cryo2 would probably work against the dyno, seeing it can make the intercooler >100% efficient but doesn't change the inlet temperature where they put their inlet sensor lol! the weather station on a hot day would key in a wild correction factor and - presto - 200rwkw on a 34 degree day lol!
  17. Thanks for that mister_two. Also, Loco180 brings up good points. I wouldn't say the SR20 has any really big weaknesses, tho I was just battling with _omg lol. All in all, both are excellent motors. We're just knit-picking at the moment lol. I'm still waiting for a Rexie owner to read _omg's comments and start up a flame war lol! It's all good!
  18. Ummm... last time I checked, 147rwkw is LESS than 156 dude almost 10kw less. A standard SR20DET with no variable-valve timing, stock, should be getting anywhere between 90-110rwkw. A stock 3S-GTE should be getting around 115-125rwkw. stock. Now. Boost'em up. A CT26 can be boosted up to 16psi safely in completely stock form. My run at 156rwkw was at 14psi. Thus, we see that YES the MR2 DOES make more power. Love to tell you this, but the S15 wouldn't make more power. FCD to raise boost-cut to 17psi. MBC to raise boost pressure to 16psi. That should give you a rwkw figure in the mid 160's... but even before that, you'd think those little 370cc injectors of yours would be, well, maxed out . I don't think boosting a stock SR20 to 16psi is very healthy, dude. But on the MR2, it's fine. Might need to look into bigger injectors on the SR to keep up. O-oh... more $$$ S-AFC to control them? Perhaps aftermarket ECU eh? hmmm... aah well. buoy37895.1484259259
  19. Taken from http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/forums/s...?threadid=26840
  20. Ok, I just read the SR20VET in the 2000, 2002 X-Trail models do have 280hp. So I'll have to eat my hat. Hurrah! SR20VET 2000-model engine beats out 1989 3S-GTE!!!!!! I am beaten.
  21. Hahaahahahaha.a..... oh dear. Yes, we're laughing. I don't understand what the stock power of an SR20VET (~240hp at engine... stock) has to do with my 1989 3S-GTE (~220hp at engine... stock) with FCD and MBC producing 156rwkw??? Firstly my 3S is producing MORE power, as the SR20VET would be lucky to put down 140rwkw stock, and secondly if you'd compare a 3S of roughly the same vintage or a 3S-GTE with VVTi BEAMS (280ps... stock), you'd see around 180rwkw after the same mods as my car... Hahahahahah.... yep . Now as far as bang for buck goes. If all you spend is on FCD and MBC... the 3S will win. So, perhaps you'd better re-evaluate your 'sr20 best bang for buck' theory. It sure is good value... but not in all situations, and certainly not stock for stock or with a slight boost increase.
  22. Yeah... well... naah... The cryo2 thing is only a few hundred bucks... and on really hot days I should be able to hold the spray button down for 5 seconds and freeze the innards off the intercooler (lol there goes $2 bucks worth of co2) and blow the begesus off the other turbo cars which should have retarded the timing due to the unfavourable inlet temps. WRXs with top-mounts especially Oohhh!!! Grrr! ...... That was good. U sure its off an mr2/celica. The ct26 off a supra is different. those things are bigger and can make 300rwhp as their exhaust housing and internals are much larger. The ct26 off an sw20 / st205 is pretty small i reckon . But it allows me to run 1.1 bar with stock ECU and put down almost 160rwkw... stock exhaust, stock intercooler, stock stock stock STOCK! lol! i like my FCD and pneumatic booster switch. Hmmm.... yes, they're old. Crazy. You'd think 6 years later they would have come up with something way better lol! As Confusion said, the valves on the SR dont touch the piston even if they are all the way down... as with the 3S. So, there you go. Never did. Never will. Although its quite funny as most mr2s goin around are non-turbo and the turbo crowd usually take 1st gear easy thinking they can pass super-hard in 2nd like they did to those N/A mr2s so many times before in the years gone by. Then they realise... they can't . THAT is usually a shock to them lol. lol... I luv it. Oooh... if a WRX owner reads this. It's ON baby! buoy37895.0621527778
  23. oh. so the sr is a non-interference design too? dayem... learn something new every day! chalk one up for the sr!
  24. well... no yes i went a bit overboard with my post... as have you lol. your counter-points invalidate some of my points and i can see where i have gone wrong... but you've also construed a heap of misinformation in your retalitory message. Let me digress: Firstly, on the point of alloy, the cast iron will not warp as the aluminium would, requiring sleeves at higher horsepower. the cast iron block, no. Intercooler woes, no not really solved in the mr2 however I'm grabbing a cryo2 kit and we'll see what happens. not a big fan of the trunk mount intercooler with spal fans, but my hp goal is probably one of the most modest on this board you're right... the 3s-gte isn't the motor of choice. i dont know where i pulled that out of... perhaps my a$$... lol. my head was still in jtcc --- which will hopefully explain my momentary lapse. albeit the sr20 isn't in production anymore. the 3s is, so at the moment if anything it is the evo motor that is the motor of choice at the moment. now as far as breaking an engine goes...... i said it did break at 550 after months of thrashing and bearing in mind its stock and had done 150,000 miles. a motor that is fresher and slightly detuned to say 500rwhp only, and daily driven without masochistic mechanically merciless shifting on a daily basis... should be, for lack of a better word, reliable. as for spooling-up, the stock ct26 is pretty darn small, dude. lol!!! big-turbine? lol no. the stock ct26 is small, runs out of breath at 5500rpm. heck even high-flowed ct26s can't even do over 275rwhp or so. the next step up is to get a ct20b turbo which looks like a ct26, is even DESIGNATED as a ct26 but with different internals. this can boost up hard and without high-flowing can get to 300rwhp. now, laggy as? hmmm.......... nope. the ct26 is TWIN-SCROLL. What does that mean? Well it stops exhaust gasses from one chamber flowing back into another chamber, aiding combustion. This also aids extraction from the manifold and aids spool-up. Also, the TVIS on the 3S-GTE is a lo/hi mode for aiding exhaust gas accelleration. What does that mean? Great power all throughout the rev range. The SR does this using an inlet swirl which gives good torque but is susceptible to pinging moreso than in a 3S. I prefer the TVIS / twin-scroll method of low-down torque, as opposed to inlet swirls So the 3S is big (even though yuo said its the same size), old (which its about as old as the SR) and low-tech (which seems to have more technology than the SR lol) ---- oh and also, the 3S is a non-interference design, meaning if the timing belt were to snap... nothing else brakes! But on the SR.... bye bye motor So, the 3S has it pretty much all over the SR... except for aftermarket, which is a BIG exception. Support for a motor is just as important, if not more important than the design of the motor itself. And with the LSD/midship of the MR2.... and the AWD of the GT4... erm.... by the time the SR has gotten traction in an S-chassis, the other 2 have, almost as you put it lol, gripped and f**ked off!!!
  25. Hi. Sorry, I forgot to quote your question... got a bit carried away lol! For 3S-GTE RWD kits, you can get them from ToySport: http://www.toysport.com/webpages/Techinfo/...0Conversion.htm
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