Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by buoy

  1. they plug in the spark plug leads the right way?
  2. Bigger flutter

    Ok. To increase the loudness of the induction noise which includes the turbo spool sound, turbo flutter sound, airbox sucking sound... you reduce restrictions to the air-box, resonator box and air filter... or their removal. To change the period or interval or hertz of the flutter (number of flutters per second or whatever) you increase the distance required for the air to travel between the turbo and the throttle body. This can be achieved by putting a FMIC on your car. Larger piping also tends to slow the flutter down too. Basically running a large turbo or small turbo makes no difference to how loud the sound is. If you want a really loud flutter, put a blown turbo on your car or one that has a lot of shaft play -> greater friction. A brand new large turbo - if it were efficient - would be quieter than a smaller turbo since the compressor housing itself would pose less of a restriction and less air turbulence. Perhaps ceramic vs steel vs journal vs ballbearing may make differences but thats really academic. You'd have to ask someone that's done it or be adventurous.
  3. s15 a/f ratio

    15:1 is lean. 14 is great. 12 is actually very good for power and is nice and a little rich which is how it should be. if the 15:1 is part throttle then it is understandable, but your afr's look pretty good. the optimum ratio is stoichiometric which is around 14.5:1 also known as lambda (i think). this is the optimum for clean emissions. for maximum power it is closer to 12.5:1
  4. well, really, blue smoke doesn't mean bye bye turbine... it means bye bye engine! lol!
  5. I agree with s15_clint ... I can get 14 pound in 1st gear by 4000rpm and its a rocket ship.
  6. I think it's great. You can have your car in beast mode and normal crusin mode. I also like the fact that with the switch off you can still drive around if you are in a hurry and not worry about the petrol tank going all the way down too quick. Thats because apart from the FCD, this is the only other mod I've done to my car. It's just simple and fun.
  7. farq. no wonder my previous r33 had a 1st gear that felt slower than 2nd. if thats what it is then i understand it now. on my current car i dont think theres anything like that but with the r33 i definitely noticed 1st gear was not as fast as it should have been.
  8. I have #3 on my car. It's the POWER switch! mu-wha-ha-ha-ha *evil grin* Since I have that one I'll comment on it: It holds boost to 14psi approximately when switched on. Boost is around 10psi with it off. Some days its 15psi, other days its 14psi but doesn't spike or at least I've never noticed it spike. Some days standard boost is 10psi, other days 9psi or even 11psi. It just depends on the current outside atmospheric pressure (barometer) which fluctuates slightly.
  9. Oh, and hmmm... just to detail the rotten egg smell: As you can see from the above, switching to less sulphur rich gasoline is a "band-aid" stop-gap measure. The real way to fix it is to get your A/F ratios spot on. The "LEAN" part is also of concern for you and your engine!!!! If you car is running stoich or slightly rich (the normal situation on a boosted car or even a standard car!) there will be no rotten egg smell regardless of what fuel you would use.
  10. Vortex is 95 RON same as PULP but has cleaning agents. The sulphur dioxide coming out of your exhaust (rotten egg smell) is your car running lean for a period of time then suddenly running rich. This is a function of your catalytic converter and your A/F ratios not being stoich. Optimax, Ultimate and Synergy are all 98 RON for Research Octane Number, but their MON is around 92-94. In Australia they use "RON" so it is 98 - but in the states they use "MON" so our 98 is the same as the US 93. Also, remember if you just fill up your car with petrol and let it sit there for a while, it will lose its octane rating and your old stale 98 RON fuel will feel like Regular Unleaded if it sits for long enough. Just remember to put a fuel stabiliser if you are going to keep your car in storage for weeks - and in case you are wondering, that also applies to service stations that are, erm... "slow" or not popular - their petrol may be marked 98 upon testing but if it is an older batch the octane may have already decreased. HTH
  11. Cleaning Engine Bay

    yeah you don't need a hose... just a can of degreaser, a generic water-spray bottle (you know, the stuff you buy stuff like window cleaner, spray & wipe stuff etc) and a can of wd40. You just spot-use the degreaser on areas of your engine bay, then use the water-sprayer to spot-hose it off. I'd do it on a very sunny day so everything just dries up quickly. Then you just wd-40 whatever you want and it also gives it a nice gloss. No need to hose. Besides, in Sydney that's illegal at the moment.
  12. Hi, Thought this might give some inspiration: http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1734601.phtml Warning modem users: Extremely heavy page.
  13. Heres 3 of the pics if u want to see if its worth your while dlding the whole thing: buoy37951.7317824074
  14. ’Tappits’??

    Deni from online performance can straighten up your tappets. Most tuning houses don't even bother with them. Deni did my tappets on my Honda and it made the ticking noise go away - he uses a manual crank to move the lifters with the head off and check the position at tdc bdc and everywhere else (dont know exactly what he does) and he has a kit with what looks like very thin pieces of metal strips - he puts this in between the tolerances of the tappets to make sure they are accurate and makes any adjustments. After that... no ticking sound
  15. Quickest Path to 400rwhp?

    u probably know already, but since I didn't see it on ur list, you'd also need most probably 720cc injectors, supra or bosch fuel pump, HKS metal head gasket, strong clutch - perhaps brass button (ouch!), Microtec/MoTec or Apexi ECU or something pretty darn decent. AFA intercooler brands, perhaps just go on the flow-rate - aftermarket ICs are usually extremely well-flowing - so just get one with a good area over stock. Usually most ICs that look big on cars are really overkill anyway, so you should be right.
  16. Double-clutching

    There are 2 sides to the clutch plates. One side is connected to the engine. This rises and falls with the rpm values because it is spinning via the flywheel. The other side of the clutch is connected to the gearbox and is synchronised to the currently selected gear. When driving, both sides of this are connected and are spinning corresponding to each other. When the driver's clutch pedal is pushed in, it forces the clutch plates apart and the engine is free to rev up and down the rev range. If you are in neutral then BOTH sides of the clutch plates can be spun by the engine, even though no gear is selected. This is different to holding your foot on the clutch, in which case it would simply be the engine and one side of the clutch spinning. The other side would eventually spin down to 0rpm in this situation. That being said, you wouldn't actually "feel" the other side of the clutch because, by comparison it is pretty light and tiny (only a few kgs) but this is what needs to be synchronised.
  17. Double-clutching

    What the heck for??? If you are in second about to shift to third, say you are at 3500rpm - when you put the clutch in and shift the gear, the drivetrain will be dropping speed from 3500rpm - and since you want to engage third gear which should be at around 2500rpm, what is the point of engaging neutral and blipping the throttle??? the gearset is going to spin down to around 2500 ANYWAY so you might as well just wait for it. Putting the thing in neutral and blipping the throttle is only necessary when you going the OTHER way (ie 3rd going into 2nd) - because in 3rd your rpms are LOWER than the next gear, so when you depress the clutch, the revs will begin to DROP away from where the revs should be to synchronise the gear! So blipping in neutral FORCES the gearset into a situation as if you were going from 1st to 2nd (even though you were in 3rd) - in that the 2nd time the clutch is depressed after the blip, the revs are ABOVE what they will be in the next gear - so you just wait for the revs to drop slightly, then engage the gear when the revs match up.
  18. MRN4SA was using a 12A and he made over 400rwhp on just 10psi with a T04 with titanium compressor wheel, second set of injectors and aftermarket ECU + necessary exhaust/ic etc... That is off the top of my head. It's on Serious Performance 4 I believe. Or 2... lol!
  19. Big power out of small powerplants always amaze me
  20. Last week had the gearbox oil changed to redline shockproof. The oil coming out was pretty good still! It wasn't grimy at all (well it shouldn't be hey!). Driving the car for the first time, I noticed everything just happened easier with the shifting. I was extremely cautious and it took me a whole week of gradually breaking it in that I realised how good it was. Used to be clunky, not it could be described as slick (or slicker) gearshifts - compared to before its hella slick. Can shift in to gear faster - albeit I haven't tried booting it in. Seems to be more power, but that could be my imagination - but since the viscosity is different - could be lowering the drivetrain losses. I should have done this when I first got the car. Actually no, it's good I got it now, because I still have a habit of taking it easy, double clutching on the 4th to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd gear changes, so I appreciate how good it has come out of this Redline shockproof change - highly recommended!
  21. GaryD - they have ka24's in the us - not sr20s lol! Nizzy - Sounds like a foreign object? Could be something that somehow got in there and just screwed everything up. BTW power in 1st gear is absolutely incredible! I suspect the oil is providing a lot less drivetrain losses than the heavier oil. It feels at least 10-15% quicker at low-medium revs - as if I was riding on the tiny stock wheels or something like that. As synthetic motor oils shoudl give you a few kw's more, so too will thinner gear oil - it just stands to reason. Less restrictions to the turning motion of the gears = more power.
  22. Engine out what mods..

    head gasket is a vgood idea. ummm... perhaps change the seals too? Not a performance thing but heck, may as well?
  23. Just confirmed with Online Performance, when it is not a "major" concern - they are talking about circuit racing etc... not granny drives to the markets - which is me . Unless you like driving the bejesus out of your car it is fine.
  24. S15-Iruka yes that is what it says, but you need to understand the context. Under daily driving strain, the gearbox shifts better and because it still prevents metal to metal contact whilst improving efficiency it works extremely well. However if you take it to the track and need to thrash the f**k out of it, this will enable you to do that AT THE EXPENSE of durability. Just like you know you are reducing the durability of your turbo when you up the boost from factory - if you take it to a track and kill it on high boost yes it won't last as long - but give it a squirt here and there on the road - it'll not severely limit the life of the unit. So, Redline (as the name suggests) provide a range of oils from high reliability to high performance. A high performance gear oil on a daily driven car with the occasional squirt is great because it makes the gearbox smooth - but i dont drive the crap out of it so it'll remain durable.