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Everything posted by Protius

  1. Microtech LT8 on CA18DET - t_gap?

    Was the LT8 programmed the run a ca18? A big downside to microtech is they need to be programmed by microtech to specific motors unlike all other ecus that you program completely yourself.
  2. s14 sr20det into s13 body wiring

    Shoot me a message via the page and we can discuss pricing. Very affordable in my opinion.
  3. s14 sr20det into s13 body wiring

    If you want an easy plug in option shoot me a message at http://www.facebook.com/whiteyswiring Send me both looms you have and i can send you back a loom that will plug in and work without hassles.
  4. So you're saying a tooth out would be noticeable but 5 degress on the cam wouldn't be? You realise 5 degrees is about as much as 1 tooth?
  5. I fail to see what useable spare parts you will gain from buying a copy gate? Ive used fake tial parts that a mate bought for his car. The clamps are shit house. The seats are tight in the gate. The anodizing burns and goes off colour. The springs are not labelled the same. And i wouldnt trust the diaphragm. Oh and the gate leaks on idle so another indication on how good the seat and valve are. Just buy the right parts from tial.
  6. You can set high/low boost switches or boost trim knobs on decent ecus as well.
  7. Mines all controlled through my ecu with 4d mapping. No point in boost controllers if you have a good ecu these days.
  8. The best way to go about this is earthing to a good solid ground in the boot. Have done this on many customers cars without any issue. Or if you feel the need to run the negative all the way you should be bolt it to the block as your engine needs the best earth out of anything for the car, one for the starter and two for all the engine sensors etc. The other thing you should do is run the positive all the way to the starter motor directly so the starter has as short a run as possible. You then leave the factory starter motor power cable in place so power up the fusebox etc this way you don't have to do any dodgy joining or bolting etc. To better this again, remove the factory terminals all together and crimp on a lug that then bolts to a proper insulated power distribution post which will also double as an easy point to put jumper cables should a time come you can't access the battery in the boot.
  9. I run a maxworx rail, delphi 1400 half height injectors with bpp injector boss adapter things in the manifold.
  10. Red tops and black tops are all 64pin ecus as well. Only ca18 s13 and s1 s14 were 76 (and rbs).
  11. Mustn't be an rb case then maybe just one of the lids. So itll be a later model so will need type 4 board. The loom is a complete s15 loom by the looks of it as it had a white plug. S14a only had the blue plugs on the loom.
  12. If the ecu is in an rb cas it has the long header plug which means it will be a s1/pfl ecu which from memory needs a type 3 board.
  13. Theyre being sold in kits by companies niw as they support over 1000hp in 6 cylinder applications. They also have a skinny shaft and run internal ignitors. Id almost be willing to be they wont require any wiring mods whatsoever as they run the same coil plug as the s15.
  14. They're the same part on both sides. They're the same part on both sides.
  15. So I decided it was time to get over my n13 pulsar and start a fresh project. Tried selling my pulsar with no luck and no real interest what so ever. Along came a kouki with a little bit of damage and high k's that I thought was a pretty good price. Enter my new ride: Picked it up last night so stoked to have a new ride! Plans so far are to strip the turbo, fuel pump, fuel reg and ecu (Disco Potato, Bosch 040, Nismo fuel reg, Haltech E8) out of my pulsar and put them in the s14. Put the s14 turbo and fuel pump in the pulsar and make it more stock and sell it for cheap to fund more mods on the s14. Will get more pics and make a bit better post on the weekend after I begin work in making it 'my own'. Stay tuned! Current mods (as of October 2014): Power: Garrett GT2860RS Turbo with enlarged wastegate Kinugawa TD06SL2-20G Bosch 040 In tank fuel pump Walbro 416LPH E85 Pump 800cc High flowed standard injectors Tomei Poncams 256 11.5 intake 264 11.5 exhaust gKtech RAS Z32 AFM Nistune ECU GFB Boost tee HKS EVC5 HDi X1 front mount core, 2.5" custom stainless steel intercooler piping S13 standard exhaust manifold gKtech front/dump pipe and mid section with my own custom 3" mild twin pipes at the rear Frankenstein lobsterback with 3.5" single rear Handling: Whiteline front and rear sway bars BC BR Coilovers front and rear Shimmed 4.3 diff 25mm extended front LCAs Steering rack forward 20mm Modded knuckles Cazman toe arms Cazman camber arms Gktech v2 traction rods Gktech v2 castor arms
  16. Flex Fuel Queries

    If the sensors were so susceptible to false readings, why are the sensors actually made in mass production for mass produced vehicles? As after all the sensors come from factory cars.
  17. ABS Brake Issues - S13 200sx

    Well youve done a huge brake upgrade on the car going from a single piston front to a 4 piston front. The s13 ABS unit will see the wheels slowing down too quickly and think it's wheel lock up and will start applying ABS. What kind of pads do you have? Shitter pads also tend to lock up easier instead of smooth braking.
  18. sr20 cast / ebay sumps

    Touch wood my cast alloy one is going well. I did remake the flaps though and had to helicoil the sump plug hole but stil significantly cheaper than a genuine arc/greddy.
  19. You've listed all possible holes. The engine loom grommet is filled with foam behind it and is a right *milkshake*. I usually run extra wiring etc through the big grommet in drivers side wheel arch for the body loom.
  20. I dont think you'll see 300kw on stock manifold very easily. Talking from experience.
  21. There's a Facebook group called queensland silvia community