Jump to content


Silver Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by UriahsWizard

  1. WTB JDM S13 drivers seat

    Prefer Sydney metro area for easier pickup as I don't have any contacts for interstate freight
  2. Nikon SLR Camera body & lens

    I'm listing/selling these 2 items on behalf of my father. If you have any questions that aren't answered in the description/s below, please contact me and I'll get back to you ASAP. They are being sold separately, however a package deal will be considered. 1 - For sale is this beautiful Nikon F-801 SLR camera (body ONLY) in excellent condition. There are some VERY minor marks and scratches on the body itself, but that's to be expected of any camera of this age. Other than that it is in perfect working, it has NO dust or mould anywhere, and you'll struggle to find another example of this model in better condition. It comes with the original instruction manual and the shoulder strap as shown in the photo. It also has an additional/accessory shutter release (the silver button just under the model name/F-801 in the photo) which can be easily removed to connect a shutter release cable. The ONLY difference between the actual item and the photograph is that the protective/lens cap is actually black, not white, but otherwise it is exactly as shown and described. Batteries not included, but it only takes 4x AA batteries, not one of those more expensive camera batteries. PLEASE NOTE : This is a traditional SLR camera, NOT a digital SLR. Asking $80 but reasonable offers will be considered. 2 - For sale is this Nikon 43-86mm f3.5 zoom lens in excellent condition and in perfect working order with NO dust or mould. It comes with a reversing ring, and when reversed this lens presents an image of 1:1 which is great for macro photography. It also comes with a soft vinyl case which has a soft velvet type lining. This lens is one of Nikon's first zoom lenses and it IS acknowledged in the photographic community as a collectors item, so get in quick and grab it before someone else does. PLEASE NOTE : This lens is for a traditional SLR camera, NOT a digital. Asking $100 but reasonable offers will be considered. My father has used both of these items extensively as semi-professional photographer, however, at 87 years old he is no longer able to use conventional SLR cameras due to failing eye sight, so that's why he is selling them. Both items come from a smoke and pet free home. Pick up from Campbelltown NSW is preferred, although postage is available at the buyers request, the price of which will be quoted if/when requested. Because of the value of these items, Registered Post is recommended, however, if the buyer chooses only regular or Express, they do so at their own risk and no responsibility will be accepted for any damage incurred during transit.
  3. SOLD - GReddy boost gauge and pod

    65mm GReddy boost gauge (used) and new plastic carbon fibre look mounting pod. $25 negotiable Pick up is available from Airds (Campbelltown) NSW or postage can be arranged, approximately $10
  4. Speedo problem

    I've had a problem with my S13 for a while with my speedo not working the majority of the time (and in turn the odometer), and on the times that it does "work", some of that time the needle bounces all over the place. I've replaced the speed sensor cable (see attached pics, cable circled in red in the second pic) hoping it would solve the problem but it hasn't made any difference and the problem is still there. Can anyone suggest any other possible easier/minor things that I can check and/or replace myself before having to look at bigger and expensive solutions? Cheers in anticipation Scott
  5. Speedo problem

    No, I haven't done that yet, but it is on the "to do" list of things that I know I can do/check. Waiting for any other possible suggestions before doing any more though so that I can do as many as possible at the same time.
  6. Driving home last night my fuel gauge "died", stopped working totally, ie the needle dropped well below the empty mark, something that has NEVER happened before in 12 years. Everything else still works ok, car runs normally etc, but now the fuel gauge gives me no reading at all. Any ideas or suggestions as to what to check and/or replace would be greatly appreciated. cheers
  7. Fuel Gauge "died"

    cheers Protius, I DO appreciate your input, and if the problem does return I will get it checked out properly
  8. Fuel Gauge "died"

    Thanks for the A Protuis, been a LOT of years since I got one of those. The car (and obviously the tank) were in fact sitting still for a while, well over 12 hours actually, and when I first looked at the gauge on Sunday afternoon it was still in the same bottomed out position, even with the engine running. Nothing changed until I did as previously explained, so something that I did "worked", and after driving a lot yesterday and again so far today, the gauge is still working. I hear what you're saying about the possibility of an intermittent fault when the fuel is at a certain level, but I haven't put more in so with all the driving that I've done it's even lower than before. Whatever has happened my gauge is working again so to be honest with everyone I don't care how as long as it's working again. Thanks for the offer brownie, but I've already got all of the wiring and circuit diagrams
  9. Fuel Gauge "died"

    Thanks for the responses guys, and as I said, the gauge is working just fine again now. I do appreciate the suggestions, and I don't want to appear to sound ungrateful at all, but why is it that some people insist that their ideas are the only ones and that the problem couldn't possibly be something else? As I said in my second comment, I know sweet FA about the workings of modern car mechanicals and electrics/electronics, but that doesn't mean that I know nothing. With so much computerised stuff in modern cars I thought it couldn't hurt to try "rebooting" things by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and removing/checking/reinstalling all of the fuses, and the gauge is working again so I'm happy with the result. I do get the concept of the baffle dislodging and/or breaking up and part of it jamming the float, but I also understand the concept that this is most likely to happen and possibly clear itself whilst driving when the baffle/s would be subject to the same movement, bumps and vibrations as other parts of the car. If the car is stationary then the baffles (or any part of them) will also be stationary, which in turn means that they're not moving to either lodge or dislodge in or from the float. Because the car WAS stationary when I tried what I did, that means it was EXTREMELY unlikely for the baffle to be able to move at all, and because I "fixed" the problem at the time it seems equally unlikely to me that the baffle was the cause of the initial problem. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but if you think logically about what I've just said then it is HIGHLY unlikely. If that's the case then in turn it means one of 3 things. 1 - that what I did actually worked (worth noting for future reference) 2 - that there is a fault somewhere in the gauge cluster, or ... 3 - that as brownieS15 said, there is a fault (intermittent or otherwise) somewhere in the circuit or with a sender. BTW brownie, I do have the full wiring and circuit diagrams, but as previously stated I know FA about modern car electric/electronics, so if the fault does return I'll have my auto sparkie check it out as well as getting a more knowledgeable car mate help me to check out the baffles. One final thought. Sometimes "over thinking" a situation can be a good thing, although in some circles it's also called thinking out side the box or lateral thinking, and in a lot of cases it sure beats tunnel vision.
  10. Fuel Gauge "died"

    The only other time I've ever had any kind of fuel issue was about 3-4 years ago when the fuel pump died, not bad for 12 years and for a car that's 25 years old. I've never had anything like you described though, but I'll keep that in mind for future reference so thanks for that. Knowing as much as I do about modern mechanicals and electrics/electronics (that means sweet FA ) I thought I'd go through everything that I could possibly think of this afternoon. I thought that it might be some kind of electrical glitch, so I disconnected the battery, then removed, checked and replaced EVERY fuse (yeah I know, overkill). I'm sure a lot of guys on here will say "that won't fix anything", but guess what? I must have done something right because the gauge is working again now, so maybe it was only a glitch after all, fingers crossed.

    UPDATE - the bar has been sold
  12. WTB: stock 180sx pieces

    UPDATE - the bar has been sold, gotta be quick on here, but I'm sure as hell not complaining
  13. WTB: stock 180sx pieces

    mate, I hear you, and there's a HUGE list of colourful names to call dickheads like that
  14. Fuel Pump Issues

    good luck
  15. WTB: stock 180sx pieces

    OK, fair enough, but all of the parts he's listed (with the exception of wheels) clearly state 180SX, no mention of Silvia
  16. WTB: stock 180sx pieces

    Wizard - the bar I have IS an S13 180SX front bar, NOT a Silvia rear bar.
  17. WTB: stock 180sx pieces

    I've got a stock JDM front bar, with chin spoiler and brackets (see pic). It's got a few scratches and minor dings but there's no cracks or fractures or anything, just plenty of dirt after sitting under my house for a few years, but it won't take much for me to give it a good wash if you're interested. I'm guessing that you'll be wanting to respray anyway, so a bit of dirt and a few scratches isn't going to make much difference. I know it looks a bit "twisted" in the photo, but that's only because I didn't have anything other than a couple of old rims to sit it on when I took the photo, but once it's been properly fitted to a car (and painted) I'm positive that it will look good. The only problem is that I'm in Campbelltown NSW (about 50km south west of Sydney), so you'd have to arrange pick up by either a freight or courier company, unless of course you happen to be travelling up this way. Anyway, let me know if you're interested and we can negotiate a fair price cheers Scott

    I've got a stock JDM front bar, with chin spoiler and brackets (see pic). It's got a few scratches and minor dings but there's no cracks or fractures or anything, just plenty of dirt after sitting under my house for a few years, but it won't take much for me to give it a good wash if you're interested. I'm guessing that you'll be wanting to respray anyway, so a bit of dirt and a few scratches isn't going to make much difference. I know it looks a bit "twisted" in the photo, but that's only because I didn't have anything other than a couple of old rims to sit it on when I took the photo, but once it's been properly fitted to a car (and painted) I'm positive that it will look good. The only problem is that I'm in Campbelltown NSW (about 50km south west of Sydney), so you'd have to arrange pick up by either a freight or courier company, unless of course you happen to be travelling up this way. Anyway, let me know if you're interested and we can negotiate a fair price cheers Scott
  19. s14 genuine Weathershield (right side only: driver side)

    I know you said that you're only after driver's side and that you want OEM (good luck finding that at a reasonable price ), but if you don't get any other leads, check out this item on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-S14-200SX-SR20-DET-WEATHER-SHIELD-WEATHERSHIELD-WINDOW-DOOR-VISOR-GUARD-/291273186732?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43d13c1dac They may not be OEM, but they are brand new, they're great quality and this guys prices are pretty damn good IMHO, $65 for the pair +$19 p&h, or you can pick up from him if you're anywhere near Coopers Plains which is apparently about 11km south of the Brisbane CBD. I got some for my S13 in April this year and I couldn't be happier with them
  20. I've been "away" from this site and the forums for quite a while, but I'm back again (for now anyway lol) so I thought I'd let everyone know that I have the full (pdf) service manuals for S13, S14 and S15 on CD if anyone wants them. I know it's kinda old school to keep them on disc instead of downloading and storing them on your hard drive, but as I'm sure most of us know, computers and hard drives can crash at the most inconvenient times and then you lose everything, so having them on a CD does have it's advantages. All 3 manuals are on the one disc too, which makes it handy for anyone who owns more than one series. So, if anyone would like a copy, I'm more than happy to do it for you for only $5. At that price I'm obviously not trying to make a lot of money from it, I'm only covering my costs, but for $5 you'll get the disc in a slim line crystal case and that price also covers the cost of postage to anywhere in Australia. If you live in the Sydney metropolitan area and want to pick it up (I live in Campbelltown) I'll do it even cheaper for you. I've also got the full circuit (4 A4 pages), wiring (3 pages) and power supply (1 page) diagrams for the S13, as well as the layout for S13 fuse box. Any or all of those diagrams can be a very handy thing to have, especially if you have to take your car to an auto electrician who isn't familiar with these cars, and each of the multiple page diagrams can be cut and pasted (the old fashioned way) to create a full circuit and/or wiring diagram. If anyone wants any or all of these I can email them to you (free of charge of course), print the pages and post them to you for only $1, or if you're also buying the service manuals, I can either put them on a separate disc or print the pages out and include them at no extra cost with the service manual. PM me if you're interested. cheers Scott
  21. gaskets questions

    I agree with the others, ESPECIALLY when it comes to the copper ones, because even though they might cost you a bit more initially, at least with OEM Nissan you KNOW that you're getting a quality/guaranteed part. I had to replace my turbo in 2004 and EVERY possible related gasket was replaced at the time, from the manifold to the cat. In the 10 years since the ONLY problem I've had was recently when my mechanic noticed that a couple of my manifold nuts were a bit loose. After going over everything properly, checking and tightening any loose nuts, he said that there are no leaks at all and everything is as good as new.
  22. Fuel Pump Issues

    Firstly, 98 octane fuel shouldn't cause a problem like that, because apart from any other benefits of running it, it's actually a much cleaner fuel than standard unleaded, E10 or 95. It does sound like your fuel pump MIGHT be on the way out, but my first suggestion would be to buy and fit a new fuel filter, mainly because it's a cheaper option, especially if it's only your filter that's dirty and blocked. The S13 CA18 and SR20 both use the same fuel filter (RYCO part number is Z201), however a couple years ago when I fitted a new filter and pump, a mate of mine recommended that I fit/run a larger filter, specifically the Z202 which is actually from the 300ZX. The inlet and outlet are the same as the Z201 (ie 8mm) so fitment to your fuel lines will be identical. The overall length of the Z202 is 118mm compared to the Z201 which is 122mm so there's f*ck all difference there, but the body of the 202 is a fair bit fatter which makes it a little bit harder to fit in back into the clip. It WILL fit with a little bit more of a push that you'd usually have to use though, as long as you've had your corn flakes or weet bix for breakfast lol. I can provide pics of the 2 different filters if you like, but I couldn't upload them into this reply. PM me if you'd like the pics and I'll get them to you. BTW, as a bit of a price guide for you, Supercheap sells the Z201 for $27.45 and the Z202 for $31.45, so only paying $4 more for a better filter is worth it in my opinion If changing the fuel filter doesn't fix the problem then I'd say it's a pretty safe bet that your fuel pump is on the way out, if it hasn't already died by now. After doing a quick check on eBay for you, and assuming that you're still running an in tank pump, I can tell you that the prices for new pumps on there at the moment range from a very reasonable $69 all the way up to an astonishing $387. If you decide to skip trying the fuel filter first and it turns out that your pump is in fact dying or dead, I'd still strongly recommend that you fit a new filter at the same time as you replace the pump, because it's only a small added cost and your new pump will work even better with a new filter. One extra thing to consider if you're still running an in tank pump is the gasket/O-ring at the top where the pump attaches to your tank, because when I changed my fuel pump a couple of years ago, when we took the old one out the O-ring was crap and it wouldn't fit back in it's "seat". Finally, on the subject of E10 fuels, be VERY careful where you buy it from. Regular unleaded has an octane/RON rating of 91, all the big fuel companies (Shell, BP, Caltex, Mobil) sell E10 that also has an octane/RON rating of 91, but if you consider that ethanol actually increases the octane/RON by between 3 and 5 points, then it has to make you wonder what kind of crap fuel they're adding the ethanol to. Most of the small independents actually sell E10 that has an octane/RON rating of either 94 or 95, so they're obviously starting with a better base product before the ethanol is added. Not only that, but if you consider that E10 is usually 1 or 2 cents per litre cheaper than regular unleaded, if you're buying your E10 from one of these independents, you're not only getting what is virtually 95 Premium unleaded a couple of cents per litre cheaper than regular unleaded, you're getting it a LOT cheaper than the 95 you'd be buying from BP, Shell, Mobil or Caltex etc
  23. Has anyone ever fitted a boss kit that DIDN'T have the indicator cancellation pins on it to their S13 180SX and still had their indicators "auto" cancel? Without going into why, I had to order a new boss kit, and after picking it up I've noticed that it doesn't have the pins, yet the old one does and from memory the original wheel did too. I can't see how my blinkers will cancel without them, so I'm looking for any helpful feedback BEFORE I either try fitting it to try it out or going back to where I bought the new one. BTW, the new boss kit is a SAAS and according to their online parts listing it IS the correct boss kit for an S13 180 (listed as 1990-94). They do have a different part number for the 1989-92 Silvia though, so if that kit has the pins, maybe that's the one I should get? Yes? No? Maybe? Any helpful/constructive comments or advice would be greatly appreciated. cheers
  24. S13 Boss Kit question

    Cheers pmod. I was pretty damn sure that "no pins, no work" would apply, and even though it sounds pretty obvious, I thought it'd be worth checking, just in case. As far as drilling holes and inserting pins myself, I think I'll contact SAAS, ask them if the 89-92 Silvia kit has the pins and if the spline and other specs are the same as the S13 180, and if so, I'll go back to where I bought the kit and organise a replacement. I know you said it can be done (putting the pins in myself), but if I f*ck it up then I lose any warranty and it's going to cost me more money
  25. Can anyone tell me if there's a domestic model Nissan that uses exactly the same manual transmission speed sensor as my 5 speed (standard box) 1990 S13 180SX with CA18DET? I've already got a quote for a genuine Nissan part, but it was $289, so if I can buy a less expensive after market sensor for a different model Nissan that's compatible then obviously that option would be much more preferable. cheers, Scott