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jbonevia

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About jbonevia

  • Rank
    Gold Member
  • Birthday 01/26/1978

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General Info

  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  1. They should, i've worked on SR's with HKS 2530's using the standard metal lines, so these would fit fine too.
  2. Hi guys, Got a question for alarm system guru's. I have a black widow alarm system that i am fitting to a daily driver, non-nissan. The car has a interior light that is negatively switched and connected to the door open/closed switch which is also a negative trigger. The alarm has two output wires that i want to use: DOOR- : this connects to the cars door switch, when the door is opened this wire is grounded and the alarm system knows that the drivers door has been opened. DOME- : this wire provides a 200Ma ground signal to trip a relay and trigger the interior light come on - it's a courtesy light function when the alarm is de-activated the interior light comes on for 30 secs. I have the DOOR- wire connected up and working fine, when the door is opened the alarm system knows about it (and the interior light comes on). I have hooked up the DOME- to a relay, which gets triggered when the alarm is de-activated. The switching side of the relay causes a ground trigger that turns on the interior light. PROBLEM: The problem i have is that the interior light is also connected to the door switch. If i hook up the relay to drive the interior light, this grounds the wire that the door switch is on. In effect, the interior light comes on BUT the door switch trigger wire is also grounded, which has the same effect as opening the door. The alarm system thinks the door has been opened when it hasnt. This means the alarm system de-activates it's auto locking function. If i de-activate the alarm but dont open the door, the alarm will re-activate (as nobody got in the car), which is what i want it to do. If the DOME- light is hooked up the alarm believes someone got in the car and wont re-activate if it was de-activated by accident - a security flaw. SOLUTIONS: I could cut the wire that joins the door switch to the interior light, which would fix the problem, but it would also mean the interior light would not come on if the door was opened. I would like to retain this feature. I could install a second door switch in each door, one for the alarm and the other standard one - but this is a bit silly. Does anyone else have any other suggestion that i could retain all functionality but still have the alarm working properly? Thanks, Jono.
  3. recall/reshell cars in vic (6T9REPV)vin

    Yes, i went through this with my car, and it was a real headache. Vicroads inspected my car and the outcome of the first inspection was that i had to get an engineers certificate (that vicroads paid for). I used the same engineer that i did when i first had it registered (as it previously had an eng certificate) and they stuffed me around for weeks and weeks because they were busy. Also i had to make sure everything else was perfectly standard on the car (turbo, emissions gear etc etc). When i finally got the cerficiate, i went back to vicroads and they inspected the car again and decided the instrustion bars in the doors were not up to their standard, when i told them the engineer had signed off on them, they said i shouldnt have used the same engineer that i did when the car was registered originally because 'it looks bad' - WTF. Anyway the outcome was that i had to purchase another set of doors, get new intrustion bars put into them, get them sprayed in the same colour as my car, take the car back to the engineer to get inspected again and signed off and then back to vicroads for a final inspection. The whole thing took over two months and a lot of stuffing around, taking time off work, getting parts, visiting panel beaters etc etc, however i was happy at the end that my car was all legit as i wanted to sell it and there was no way the rego could be transferred until it was all sorted out and i know it wont be a problem for the new owner(s) in the future. And this was for a car that was not really dodgy at all, everything had been done properly on the complaince when i got the car years ago, it was just how the system worked, and i can understand why they are doing it as there are probably a lot of dodgy cars out there.
  4. onevia

    my car
  5. East meet Tues 29th May 2007

    Usual time - 9pm Usual place See you guys there...
  6. These are average prices based on what i have seen on the forums, some things you would be lucky to sell at all as they are low demand parts. Depends on who wants them at the time. FRONT S13 SR - Hubs, Knuckles, backing plates and lower control arms -> $50 a side S13 SR - brake lines (suit SR calipers) -> $10-15 per line max R32 GTS (non turbo) - Front Calipers with pads (similair size to CA18DET calipers) - $30-40 R32 GTS (non turbo) - Front Rotors - around $30-40 if good thickness, nothing if nearly worn out. REAR S13 SR - Rear calipers (with pads) $20-30 per caliper max S13 SR - SR Rear Rotors & backing plates $30-40 if good thickness, nothing if nearly worn out. S13 SR - Brake lines (suit SR calipers) $20 pair (would be lucky to sell them) S13 SR - 4 stud hubs (not sure if these are needed for the R31 conversion) - $20-30 per hub
  7. OK this is like my first ever meet post. Just wondering if any of the regs are planning on going, it will be my last meet before my little holiday so i might come down if a few guys are going to rock up...
  8. Pharmacy presents Transmission: Magic City

    Yeah i will be there - got my ticket already...
  9. Gearbox oil fill level

    Chuck 300-400mls through the gear shifter if you are worried about it, the extra fluid wont hurt even if its over filled. That should buy you some time to get it fixed properly.
  10. S13 drivers door - looking for one

    got one thanks...
  11. Looking for a S13 drivers side door for a mate who has dented his. Got the panel beater lined up so would prefer to pickup ASAP. Looking to spend about $60-80, just need the bare door. Call or SMS me - 0417 522 562. Thanks, Jono.
  12. rb20det help please.

    check your fuel pump
  13. same bolt pattern - should fit OK, may be a conversion kit for a S15 to replace the dual mass flywheel. Should fit onto S13 or S14 motors without a problem... i think u should use new flywheel bolts though
  14. its actually supposed to be 1.9l but its good to put in a bit extra through the gearshift hole - 2.5l would be fine
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