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Everything posted by Lucius

  1. Hi Guys, Got the below for sale. All items are pickup from Campbelltown NSW area only. Item: TIEN Monoflex Coilovers Description: The coilovers are TIEN Monoflex - no not type flex, no not mono sport they are MONO FLEX! (https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/tein-mono-flex-coilover-system-nissan-240sx-s13-8994-p-56296.html). These were purchased in 2010 for my weekender at a cost of AU$3200.00 and as you can see in the link still sell for over US$2000.00. They have probably only done about 20,000km max due to the weekender not being used all that much. No leaks, etc... they are still in as new condition and come with C-Spanners, manuals, little can of lube and even the original sticker pack! These are great for the track or road and at this price much better than the Chinese cheapies! Spring rates F:7kg and R:5kg Price: $900 Location: Campbeltown NSW Willing to post?: No Contact: Via PM or reply in thread Item: 350z 18 x 8" 30mm Offset Description: Rims only, no tyres. What you see is what you get, they are all straight but have various levels of gutter rash. Look great on Silvia's, just need some cosmetic repair to be perfect. Price: $100 Location, Contact, Post as above.
  2. TIEN Monoflex Coilovers & 350z 18" Rims

    Rims are now sold. Coilovers still for sale. Make me an offer!!!!
  3. S13 SR20DET A/C Dryer?

    I have 1 x brand new Compressor, 1 x Brand new drier and 1 x brand new condenser. All genuine from Nissan. I got them for a rebuild that I was doing, but ended up doing a re-shell into an S14 so don't need them any more. Everything yours for $1000 (negotiable). Let me know if your interested, I've got the receipts for all the parts floating around somewhere as well. all to suit S13 obviously....
  4. WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLUG THE DCC INTO THE ANALOGUE LOOM. YOU MUST EITHER USE THE DIGITAL LOOM OR FOLLOW THIS GUIDE TO MODIFY YOUR ANALOGUE LOOM. S13 Silvia Digital Climate Control Conversion Instructions - Analogue to Digital Conversion using the Analogue Loom. Interpreting Colours and Pin Numbering: The pin numbers apply to the plugs as they face you, i.e. The connecting side of the plug is facing you and the wires are on the furtherst side. Here is how the pins are numbered: ~INSERT REMAINING PIN NUMBERING DIAGRAM HERE~ Colour Coding: B = Black W = White R = Red Gr = Green Lgr = Light Green Y = Yellow Br = Brown Or = Orange Bl = Blue Pnk = Pink Wire colours take the form - Base Colour/Stripe (i.e. B/W = Black with White Stripe) For the purposes of this article these plugs within the climate control loom take the following labels: Big White Connector - Medium White Connector - Small White Connector - Thermistor Connector - Blue Relay - How to remove pins from the plugs: The pins are held into the plugs by a small clip extending down into a groove in the pin. I used a small flat head screwdriver to push the plastic clip out of this groove as demonstrated in Fig. 1. 1. Un-clip the retaining clips on the top and bottom of the plugs. 2. Slide the screwdriver into the plug directly above the pin. 3. With the screwdriver still inserted, pull on the cable until the pin comes free (Note - When removing the pins i found that i sometimes had to insert the screwdriver more than once in order to push the plastic clip up high enough to remove the pin). 4. Label the pins initial location with some masking tape and move it to the side (I labeled mine with a letter followed by the inital pin number, i.e. B1 = Initally pin 1 from the Big black plug; S1 = Initally pin 1 from the Small black plug). 5. Repeat until all pins have been removed from the black plugs. When removing the pins be patient, as the last thing you want to do is break one of the plugs! ~INSERT FIGURE(s) HERE (REMOVING PINS)~ Re-Pinning the Plugs: Important: The Pin numbers shown in Green require you to create a cable. Small Black Connector: Pin No. = New Wire/Moved Pin Description 1= Gr/Y - From Big Black Pin 11 2= Bl/B - From Big Black Pin 19 3= Bl/Y - From Big Black Pin 09 4= Blank 5= Pnk/B - From Big Black Pin 06 6= Lgr - From Small Black Pin 03 7= Blank 8= Blank 9= Bl/R - From Big Black Pin 10 10= Bl/W - From Big Black Pin 20 11= Blank 12= Blank 13= Br - From Small Black Pin 11 14= Lgr/B - From Big Black Pin 17 15= Pnk/Bl - From Big Black Pin 07 16= Blank Big Black Connector: Pin No. = New Wire/Moved Pin Description 1= R - Doesn’t Exist on Analogue Loom, Run to constant +12v 2= Gr/W - From Big Black Pin 15 3= R/W - From Small Black Pin 16 4= B - Doesn’t Exist on Analogue Loom, Join to Black cable on Pin 10 5= Blank 6= Gr/W - Comes from Blue Relay 7= Br/W - From Small Black Pin 14 8= Or/B - From Small Black Pin 06 9= Lgr/R - From Big Black Pin 05 10= B - From Big Black Pin 12 11= Blank 12= Gr/R - From Small Black Pin 09 13= Gr/B - From Small Black Pin 01 14= Gr/Y - From Small Black Pin 02 15= Gr - From Small Black Pin 04 16= Gr/Y - From Small Black Pin 12 17= Or/Bl - From Small Black Pin 05 18= Pnk - From Small Black Pin 13 19= Lgr/R - From Small Black Pin 08 20= Bl/B - From Small Black Pin 07 To Get Aircon Switch to function: Join the Lgr/R cable from Analogue Plug Pin 07 to the Lgr/B cable from Big White Connector Pin 08. To Get Temperature control to function: Cut the Lgr cable that comes from the Thermistor Plug, and solder/join it to the Gr/Y cable that is now on Pin1 of the Small Black Connector. (DO NOT CUT THE CABLE AT THE THERMISTOR PLUG END! - What we want here is a LGR cable that runs from the thermistor plug to the cable at Pin1!) Extra Information: Analogue Spare White Plug: After all of the re-pinning is complete this plug may still be attached by some wires. Cut them close to the plug so that you can remove the plug. When creating wires for Pins 01 and 04 on Big Black Connector: The obsolete white plug that has now been removed from the loom will have a number of wires attached with pins remaining on the ends. Cut these wires from the plug and use them to create your new ground and constant +12v cables. Any Exposed wires that are left behind should be taped up or shrink wrapped. Recirculation Switch Issues Note: ONLY DO THIS IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS WITH THE RECIRCULATE FEATURE! Otherwise your recirculate button will work in reverse. If you plugged the digital climate control unit into the the analogue loom without doing the conversion first, then odds are your recirculation button will not work. This is because like most other things in the digital unit, these functions are controlled via transistors, and it seems that plugging in the digital unit without first converting the loom fries the transistor(s) that manage the recirculation function, leaving you stuck on the fresh air mode. If you do not like being stuck on fresh air, and would prefer to be stuck on Recirculate you will need to swap Pins 13 and 14 of the Big Black plug. If you dont want to be stuck on either, and want to be able to switch between modes then you will need to somehow integrate a relay, or replace the fried part. Thanks to Lovin-That-80 for letting me pull your car apart so that i could work out the wiring, and thanks to mdConstantine for spotting my typos and working out the original pin locations for the wires i lost track of.
  5. Hi Guys, I'm looking at buying a set of Ikeya Formula Rear Upper arms to sort out rear camber. Now Ikeya Formula sell a 'positive' type and a 'negative' type, and there is absolutely nowhere that I have searched - including the Ikeya Formula Website - that can tell me that adjustment range of either version of the arms! I want to be able to correct the camber to close to 0deg for the street and still be able to set a decent amount of negative camber for when I feel like having a bit of fun... Does anyone here own a set of either positive or negative type upper arms, and can let me know what sort of adjustment they are getting out of them? Cheers!
  6. You make it sound like people just wake up one morning and decide that they want to by gay.
  7. Price : $250 Condition : Used Location: Liverpool NSW (Will post parts at buyers expense) Contact: PM me for more info, pics, or to arrange purchase Bride SuperLow Rails (Bottom Mount) Drivers + Passenger - $250 Excellent condition, get your seats as low to the floor as possible. Suits S13, S14 and S15. Turbosmart Type II Vee Port BOV - $50 In excellent condition, awesome sound! Nardi Classic steering wheel + Horn Button - $100 SOLD Minor signs of wear, still looks and feels great. No boss kit. Splitfire Boost Gauge + Chrome Gauge Cup - $50 In excellent condition. 58mm, up to 20psi. Perfect for mounting in lower A pillar. Lights up a light green colour as shown. Stainless Steel Low Mount Manifold for SR20DET - $100 SOLD Says HKS on it, not sure if it is genuine or not hence the low price. Clear Indicators for 180sx - $50
  8. EPA

    Yeah, changing plates won't help, as they have records even when out of rego. The RTA site isn't clear about whether EPA/defects are dropped when deregistered, however knowing NSW, you'll probably get f*cked harder than replacing the parts and clearing the defect. I personally don't allow my car to run out of rego just due to the 'import factor'. http://www.rta.nsw.g...heck/index.html http://www.rta.nsw.g...ndex.html#ASCIS Call the RTA and confirm what happens in relation to EPA notices on deregistration, requirements for a modified import to get blueslip, and what cashback you get when you elect to deregister. The easiest option could be to buy the cheapest stock 200sx you can find, drop it's stock gear in, clear the EPA, put your crap back, then sell the spare car. At least that way you have everything you need, you'll get it fast and know it all works. The catch is the initial outlay, time to sell it, and transfer of ownership costs. Tinker with the stock FPR lines to reduce fuel pressure slightly to lean it out a little, and it should pass ok on a stock tune. The alternative is to smash the classifieds and try to gather all the parts you need now, that way you'll be set should an EPA come in the mail, or for the next time. I can sell you a stock S13 sidemount intercooler for cheap, if that helps you at all. No factory bov though. Rubbish.... I got my car with modifications through Engineering, DECC Noise and Anti-tampering check and a Blue Slip not too long ago and the process was completely smooth and trouble free. This was under the old ECS scheme so things may have changed a little, but I wouldn't imagine they have changed too much in regards to the DECC specific stuff. I got defected quite a while ago for not having anything certified, though my modifications were legal. Got a DECC notice, and due to family issues couldn't get it cleared in time so my car ended up de-registering (Do this as soon as possible if this is something you plan on doing as you get the remainder of your Rego fee's back, likewise for greenslip). I got through DECC inspection with: - Full 3" exhaust (Catco compliance cat, mid muffler, muffler). Tested 82db max on acceleration and 88db on decel - Custom airbox (well designed, using a dry pod and engineered to noise standards) - Front mount - Nistune - 740cc injectors - etc... The DECC don't car about your other modifications only emissions specific - So things like non-plumback BOV, Intercooler, Loud exhaust, un-boxed POD and non-compliant airbox, catch cans that vent, etc.... If you do things properly then you wont have any issues. I remember being freaked out before going through the entire process after all of the horror stories posted online about how hard it is to get through everything, but now that I have done it I really can't understand what all the fuss was about. The IM240 is also not that difficult to pass, I did it first go on 98 unleaded. The advice I got from the tuner (Unigroup) was to get a new O2 sensor and make sure that I was using a compliance cat. Passing the IM240 with cams is not a problem as long as you aren't running anything too extreme. I don't know if you will need to do the IM240 to get all your mods through, you should ask one of the inspectors. Also, I went to the guy in Campbeltown. He was a good bloke and was very professional while he did his inspection.
  9. ISP's can't just decrypt all data on the fly any way. While man in the middle attacks on protocols such as https through firewall/router appliances are especially easy for ISP's to setup (i.e. mandatory filtering style systems), there are plenty of encryption+authentication protocols out there that could not be easily decrypted. This part of the legislation is meant to target people who have for example an encrypted archive or HDD that ASIO or the police want to look into. Refusing to decrypt said data is what they want to avoid, as it isn't really illegal to do so at the moment. This has some advantages and some disadvantages. I.e. A child porn watching scumbag may encrypt his files in an encrypted archive making it harder for additional evidence to be gathered. Making it a crime to refuse to decrypt said archive would mean at the very least said scumbag gets charged with something on top of whatever else they have. On the downside I have encrypted archives on my portable drives and computer that I obviously don't want people to access that contain data of a business nature. Having to decrypt them at someone's request without really good reason would peeve me no end, not to mention the obvious violation of something I clearly consider especially private! There's also interesting implications for government workers who may have confidential, restricted, or higher data in their possession which is encrytped while being in plain clothes or off duty (such as at airports, etc...). Will these people be charged when they tell someone who shouldn't be looking at this data to politely f**k right off?
  10. Good experiences with cops

    I got defected by MF HWP on Northern Road and they aren't all that bad. I got done for BOV not plumbed in, pod, aftermarket steering wheel, racing seats not comply, and intercooler not comply. They guy was reasonable and wasn't an arse, and in the grand scheme of things they were all defects. Fined me for the BOV and the seats and sent me to DECC for an inspection + full blueslip. As a result I changed several things, got the car engineered, emissions tested and passed DECC inspection with all modifications. It's not like they are out to get us, they just know that we are easy targets because so many of us modify our cars outside of the law. Such is life really, just need to take the kick in the bum as motivation to get modifications certified and compliant it's really not that hard.
  11. Hi, I did a guide some years ago now on doing an analogue to digital climate control conversion on the S13. The pictures from the thread are now gone, and I don't have the high res versions any more due to the old hdd they were on kicking the bucket years ago before I could back them up. I can update the thread with some very low res versions I found on my current machine, but is there any chance you could get the old images back, as people are asking me for the originals? Attachment ID's for the images were: attachment=85357:Connectors.jpg attachment=85937:BigWhCon.jpg attachment=85939:MedCon.jpg attachment=85941:SmallCon.jpg attachment=85940:Thermistor.jpg attachment=86089:BlueRelay.jpg
  12. Your a gem Cheers Mate!
  13. Nope not in here either. See here for screens: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=511356 *edit: Is there different security settings or something that could be stopping me from posting attachemnts?
  14. I went into the full editor however I only get the "Options" pane and not the "attachments" pane. I am also not able to attach images if I go to add a reply to that thread.... I just made sure it wasn't my browser or brain letting me down and I can post attachments just fine in other threads, like the pics of the day, etc... so is there any other way lol
  15. Big fat fail on trying to edit the images in place by changing the attachment tags (I can't add new attachments when editing either).... Any chance a mod could perform the following swaps with my attachments? attachment=85357:Connectors.jpg -> attachment=372521:Connector_Pins.jpg attachment=85937:BigWhCon.jpg -> attachment=372522:big_white_con.jpg attachment=85939:MedCon.jpg -> attachment=372524:med_white_con.jpg attachment=85941:SmallCon.jpg -> attachment=372525:small_white_con.jpg attachment=85940:Thermistor.jpg -> attachment=372526:thermistor_con.jpg attachment=86089:BlueRelay.jpg -> attachment=372523:blue_relay.jpg
  16. Bugger - O well... I'll try and attach the low-res screenshot versions I have - can still see things well enough.
  17. EPA testing

    If you go through the trouble of getting stuff properly engineered and also go and pass an IM240 emissions test you should be able to get away with keeping the majority of your after market gear (assuming it passes the test and can be engineered). Pod is the only thing you will get pinged on if you have engineers and passed emissions test, but if you grab one of those cool pod filter boxes from a BA XR8 or the like from a wrecker they should pass with engineering as they are an OEM item (albeit from a Ford). The other option is to box a dry-type pod and try to pass a drive by noise test (without the drive-by noise test you may get failed by the DECC guy, even with a custom box). I'm currently in the final stages of getting my S13 engineered and this was the advice I was given. This is the air box I'm talking about: Taken from a thread on the Ford Forums.
  18. Brake Booster Question

    I did a CA18 brake setup -> Z32 brake upgrade on my S13 and swapped the master cylinder out for a BM50. I got mine from ebay US, over there they sell the BM50's from the Z32 with the three port conversion already done for us non-abs types! Here's one on ebay - I would also recommend replacing the seals and having a look at the bore when you get it as it isn't expensive to re-condition them. After doing this swap though I ended up with a rock hard pedal, as the standard brake booster that was on the CA equipped cars wasn't helping very much at all. I swapped the brake booster over to a double diaphragm S15 booster and now I have a pedal feel that shits all over the standard S13 setup that I upgraded from. Only issue that I have (and that I am currently getting rectified) is that the input rod of the S15 booster appears to be shorter then that of the original S13 booster, resulting in the brake pedal sitting at about the same height as the accelerator when completely adjusted out (not to my liking). This can be fixed by getting a new input rod bracket made up, however I have someone also looking at a replacement input rod for me too. The S15 booster is almost a straight drop in, but there was some issues: 1. The diameter of the hole in the firewall needs to be widened by approximately 2mm - If you take the original booster off, you will notice a small lip around the hole; I used a round file to remove this lip and that is enough. 2. The booster has a larger depth measurement than the S13 booster, so your BMC will be shifter forwards slightly. This shift forwards was enough for my strut brace to foul on the BMC reservoir which means I will need to have a custom strut brace made to clear it. 3. It is a real bitch to get in! I had to loosen the drivers side engine mount and jack that side of the engine up to make it fit in past the SR20's intake manifold during installation (I didn't want to take it off). It clears without issue once installed.
  19. Be happy that you aren't required to do a DECC Noise and Anti-Tampering test!
  20. Dick heads at the track

    I had some knob head do this to me on my first day on the bike out at the track, scared the shit out of me but at least the officials red-flagged the guy for me.
  21. Fogged up windscreen

    Many in the motorcycling community use soap to stop our visors from fogging up. Clean the window first, get an ordinary cake of soap (not that moisturising stuff, just regular soap). Draw lines all over the screen and rub that shit in with a clean rag or paper towel. It will look a bit blurry once it first starts working into the screen but if you persist it will not be noticeable. This works all the time for me and my visor is cm's from my face and part of a small fully enclosed space. It also works well on the bathroom mirror lol. Give it a go.
  22. Post Edited after reading further posts: While she may be uncomfortable, I don't think that there should be any excuse that needlessly ties up so much resources (i.e. no female on site, so stand around and wait for a female to show up or take them to the station - all for a simple licence check). As someone else pointed out, there is no way she was wearing the burqa for her licence photo, so what really is the big issue with showing an official your face, when they have already seen it on the licence?
  23. The worst thing about this case is the fact that if there wasn't any footage of the incident recorded from the police car, then this guy may well have had his career and life ruined (as a worst case scenario) over something that did not actually happen. The only reason that this smug woman made the complaint is because she didn't know the whole incident was recorded and because she thought she could get away with a false declaration. It truly is a disgrace that she was able to get away with this, however she did shoot herself in the foot by using her burga as her main reason for lack of identification with regards to the stat. dec. She has only given people that support the Full Face Coverings Prohibition Bill more ammunition. As has been said before, if I can't walk into a servo or shop with my motorcycle helmet on then why should someone else be allowed to do something similar just because it is a requirement of their cultural beliefs. People can't cry out for equality within society, and then try and fight the system when the equality they are seeking doesn't fit in with their ideals. *edit - As has also been said earlier in the thread... try going to somewhere like Saudi Arabia, and act like an Aussie over there. Try letting your girlfriend where anything other than the strickly mandated clothing and you will find yourself in hot water very quickly! I haven't seen too many Aussies misbehaving overseas, but that may have to do with the places I visit and the company I keep perhaps......
  24. painting rocker cover

    +1 - I used VHT Red Wrinkle and it came out with an awesome finish!