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advanced jap auto

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About advanced jap auto

  • Rank
    403kw 10.5 @ 136 mph
  • Birthday 08/02/1975

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    Australia VIC
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  1. Vacancy for full time employee (sales used import jap parts) Hours Mon - Fri 9.30 - 5.30 Location Western Suburbs of Melbourne Wages Award Main duties include * Phone sales (quoting & completing phone orders ) * Phone (booking in dyno tunes and fabrication work ) * Internet sales ( online store & ebay store ) * Initiating any extra sales via internet marketing will be rewarded with bonuses Other duties * Assisting with fabrication work * Assisting with dyno tuning ( set up ) * Assisting CNC Mill Operation Required Skills & Experience * Used Spare Jap Import Parts * Phone sales * Internet Sales Online * eBay Store * Customer Service Added Skills & Experience (Not Essential) * Mechanical Automotive * Tig/Mig Welding - Fabrication * Cad/Cam G-code Programming * Operating CNC Mill * Operating Lathe Contact Me Via Text 0421 025 216 Forward Resume to stevent75(at)optusnet.com.au with subject ATTN Steve Job Vacancy
  2. Oil dipstick question

    only when the engine is under light load or a vacuum state once its loaded and making boost and pcv valve is shut all the crankcase pressure exits through one fitting on the passenger side of the rocker the final stages of the while we were ironing out the few small humps in the afrs and atfer 30 + ramp tests the dip stick remained in place you had your catch can connected to one end on the T on the rocker and the other hose from the can to the back of the engine block which wasn't really doing anything the other end off the T that usually goes to the intake of the turbo was just vented to the atmosphere and the dipstick was happy so if you are now running that to the catch can and one fitting on the catch can venting to atmosphere and the dip stick pops up it means your new configuration is to restrictive and those cheap generic cans usually have small fittings A 20 year old engine with mods and boost will naturally have some blow by I suspect the problem came about once changes were made if we make a custom can with the right shape to fit in the bay Ideally -10 fittings and the rocker would need to be modified I wouldn't send those oil fumes back into the engines intake as it can lead to detonation and putting a hook over the dipstick will keep it in place but you now have a crankcase with positive pressure with a 20 year old engine that pressure will certainly push excessive oil up past the rings once again causing detonation either turn boost down or alleviate pressure with mods to rocker and catch can I've been through this with customers cars and even my own cars those are the 2 affordable options more expensive options are vacuum pumps or exhaust driven venturi nozzle fittings I 'm experimenting with the vibrant exhaust driven vacuum nozzle , angle and placement has to be perfect for maximum evacuation(suction)they are reported to work well with N/A engines but I'm skeptical whether it will be sufficient when being used on a turbo engine.
  3. Haltech vs Power FC vs Nistune

    not above 4000 rpm and even bellow 4000 rpm how accurate is it at detecting knock, Doesn't matter how sophisticated a knock control is, it can always be fooled with vibration/noise at the same frequency and with all those noises in the engine bay of a 20 years old car with rattling timing chains, sprockets, leaky gaskets, screamer pipes and other mods I know i wouldn't want timing pulled out of a performance or track car while while trying to use it for what it was intended for ---> performance I'm happy to tune both nistune and apexi fc , i have used a apexi fc in my own lancer evo 3 and it controlled idle with 280 bc cams reasonably well for a stepper motor, now running the motec M400 and it's almost impossible to get the P.I.D numbers correct when its starts to go into a hunt it just snow balls into a huge hunt , took me f**king ages to get sort respectable. but the motec can control my 2 stage nitrous , launch and many other requiements with the power fc i would just punch 1100 rpm and it would chase that rpm and for big cams it was consistent I'm a big fan of nistune i've even used them on mitsubishi engines with great success Matt Brown has done an awesome job with the development of this product If your choosing an ecu because it has knock control then it might be time to find a new tuner i would say knock control is a great safety feature for a road car but mot suitable for a track car
  4. Stiff coilovers are not ideal for grip and launching , I 'm just curious if the hkd drag coilovers are any good , anyone tried them before ?? I'm running HKS hipers in my lancer and stiff suspension seems to work with AWD vehicles, my best 60 ft was 1.53 and that wasn't really a full on launch Sash's 180sx is now undergoing a freshen up as the old sr20 had been racing for 4 years although its still running although compression is down to 130 psi this new set up should be pretty potent with the same turbo used to run 10.5 in my lancer with a ball bearing core replacing the older style T series journal core .
  5. S15 11.6@131MPH on a Bog..need advice/suggestions

    your suspension is not ideal for drag racing you need soft springs in the rear just use a pair of stock struts and springs slightly lower then stock get some stock front struts and send the inserts to these guys and tell me you want them set up for drag racing leslie and sons 19 Mologa Rd, Heidelberg West VIC 3081 (03) 9459 2859 refit the inserts into front struts and leave springs at stock ride height try that and post up your results
  6. S15 11.6@131MPH on a Bog..need advice/suggestions

    the 4.11 is ideal at 7000 rpm with 3.7 final drive 26 inch overall tire diameter 4th gear 1:1 top speed would be 146 mph at 131 mph the rpm would be 6300 with the 4.11 final 7000 rpm at 131mph ( make sure you have some buffer for rpm limit tune and set to 7500) , you would need to run a 1.50 - 1.60 60 ft it's all i the 60ft , this is what sets you up for a quick time and top end power will bring it home i have run a 1.53 60 ft in my lancer and i missed 3rd gear with a few tenths lost i still ran a 10.80 @ 131 mph at the start line pull the handbrake and load up all the backlash in the drive train this will avoid shock and stop you from smashing a diff , axle or gearbox the best way to launch is to slip the clutch use it like a torque converter (clutches don't last long ) when you feel the tires bite release the clutch completely and bury the accelerator (it all happens so quick that the best i can describe it) although my lancer is awd i also used this method with my sigma running a 9" hoosier with 200-220 rwks and ran 12.10 @ 112 mph you have enough power to run a 10 and your 131 mph is good for a 10.60 - 10.90 , unless he set up is laggy and the tune might need some work if the car bogs down off the line with a well matched turbo and a nice crisp tune the car should be easy to drive out of the hole if it's a pig then you will have to practice the launch because you have less margin for error my lancer 10.58 @ 135.80 mph 1.61 60 ft 10.80 @131 1.53 60 ft and missed 3rd gear still chopped the R35 gtr aggess running 10.49 @ 131 mph 1.50 60ft
  7. Update The owner has collected the vehicle and he made the long journey from Melbourne back to Sydney without incident and best of all he made it on $150 worth 98 ron premium fuel at $1.65 per liter running on the tune with no help from closed loop. Scoreboard Nistune 1 - 0 Aftermarket Ecu
  8. My 180SX, Type X rep now with an RB30ET!

    +1 I repaired cracks on one of these a few weeks ago definitely not steam pipe , 2.0 mm wall thickness at best and I'm 99% sure they are mig welded anyone else have one of these manifolds that ended up cracking ??
  9. Ls coils

    I wouldn't doubt that guys are running 1.1 gaps with ls2 coils , but you dont need to run those big gaps , in fact Wayne from M&W always suggests to run 0.5mm -0.6mm with highly modified engines with very high Cylinder pressures, your spark has to work against this resistance but the cylinder pressure resistance can't be avoided, you don't want to introduce more avoidable unnecessary resistance where the coil would have to work harder and thus creating large amounts of unnecessary electrical noise ??? which could cause testicle cancer
  10. Ls coils

    +1 I have witnessed it on the dyno on enough occasions to call it conclusive , I have swapped out splitfires with ls2 units and the vehicle was transformed , it was easier to start, it made more power, the mixtures changed coz it was now burning complete instead false AFR readings caused by incomplete burn Which could easily lead to engine failur, at the end of the day our Wide band is the most important tool and it governs the whole tuning process if that's not right then we might as well go back to carbies, jets and spark plug color to set mixtures. just to put it to perspective the genuine ls2 truck coils or yukon coils have 100 mj that pretty impressive , this is the only coil pack with that much power not running (CDI) 400v-500v of Capacitor discharge through a coil.
  11. Ls coils

    must be run with a cdi box they are not an inductive coil , they are a awsome coil pack and a very reliable coil that's why the use them on marine engines , also ideal for off road and rally vehicles exposed to muddy, wet, harsh conditions you wouldn't wana be out in the middle of the ocean running R34 N/A coils that's for sure
  12. Ls coils

    M & W CDI works with almost any config , for certain set up you will need to order the correct box but they are universal in most they can be ordered or configured to run falling or rising edge trigger to suit most oem sensors ( hall effect optical or reluctor) I have run M&W with factory ecu's nissan (nistune) and mitsubishi I have run a basic 2 channel M&W pro 12 with apexi power fc in my own car using the factory inductive coils with reversed polarity in waste spark got to 320kw and the factory coilpacks just didn't have what it needed and Waste spark has half the amount of available charge time as opposed to a full sequential system The pro12 has 2 power modes 115mj/150mj that would be with the recommended coil and not stock items in reverse polarity so i went the pro drag 4 full sequential with bosch 717 coils and custom 8mm magnacor leads capable of 250 mj the blue furry sparks that come out of the leads are scary and then can kill. but you could probably use it to restart your heart like a defibrillator M&W released the pro drag 500 which puts out a whooping 500mj they will only sell these units to pro installers and most people wouldn't need them and anything over 4 coils you need to run 2 boxes they also double as a mobile welder if your game enough to hook up a earth lead and torch, I'm surprised more people don't use M&W , it's a great aussie made product the owner wayne is a ignition guru and great guy to deal with but if your a noob you will get flamed they also make motec's CDI boxes I have been using M&W for 5-6 years and i wouldn't use anything else, keep the dollar in oz especially if the product is the best in the world anyway M&W have all the power ratings in plain site for everyone to see on their website because they are real, all the other muppets claim big power more spark blah blah but they don't have mj figures . I'm not saying other system don't work but bang for buck M&W is my choice and you can't go past Waynes honesty that goes a long way in business.
  13. Used Spare Parts Imported From Japan ( We Cannot take Enquiries Or Reply Via PM) Enquiries must be via phone (03) 9311-9966 Mobile 0402 379 919 (Lee) Or Email https://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update Current Stock - Prices Starting From $20 Subaru WRX GDB 6 Speed Sti 2003-2006 & 1999 - 2000 GC8 ( All Parts Available) Mitsubishi Evo 4-9 Lancer ( All Parts Available) Legnum Galant EC5A / W Twin Turbo (Most Parts Available) JZA80 MKIV Supra TT 6 SP Manual & Auto - N/A 5 SP & Auto (Most Parts Available) Skylines R33 R34 V35 , All Guises Including 6 Sp Manual S1 V35 With Brembos (Most Parts Available) 200sx , Silvia 180sx , S14 S15 (Most Parts Available) Mazda RX7 Series 4 - 7 (Most Parts Available) Toyota SW20 AW11 NR2 & Starlet ( Glanza ( EP82 - EP91) 4EFTE Turbo 1.3 (Most Parts Available) Pulsar RNN14 GTIR AWD SR20DET (Most Parts Available) Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 1 - 3 (Some Parts Available) Z32 300zx VG30DETT & VG30DE & M35 Stagea (Some Parts Available) Toyota Soarer 1JZ & 1UZ V8 (Some Parts Available) We Try To Stock The Most Sought After Parts Engines , Gearboxes , Turbo's , Superchargers, Coilovers , Recaro Seats Manual Conversion Kits, Stock & Afternarket Mechanical LSD For S & R chassis Nisssanss ECU'S , AFM , Engine Conversion Packages, sr20, 4g63, 4efte, rb25,rb26, 2jz, 1jz, 13b turbo, 4age supercharged, 4age black top 20 Valve VG30DETT, VG30DE, 6A13 Legnum , VQ35, VQ25 Plus More ............. Location Fact 4/31-39 West Circuit Sunshine West , Vic 3020 (03)9314-7776 - (03) 9311-9966 0402 379 919 (Lee)
  14. 8 year old ebay tig good enough to weld coke cans together

    some lobster back pipes for a hilux
  15. how to do lobster back piping

    Just some lobster back pipes i made for a hilux 304 grade stainless steel