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Everything posted by maxstent101

  1. Hi guys, Went on holidays over new years and my car was left sitting for 8 days. Battery went flat. When i went to jump start it the alarm/immobiliser was disabled just fine using the remote. Later that night I had parked the car in front of my place and then noticed my friends car had set my alarm with the microwave sensor as he drovew too close to it (I have the siren turned off, just lights flashing). Lights flashed for what seemed like longer than the normal 30 seconds but I just brushed it off and went inside thinking it would turn itself off as per normal. Next morning battery doesnt have enough to start, mainly because I had only driven it for 15 mins the night before after first starting it again. But the main problem is that the alarm/immobiliser cannot be disarmed using the remote as per normal. The key must be in and turned to ACC before the remote will work! So basically the remote will work as per normal only if the key is in the ignition and turned to ACC. Any other time the light of the remote will flash as you press a button but nothing happens. Have changed the battery in the remote but no difference. Any ideas on what I could look for? Thanks
  2. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    Ok so my alarm is still broken. Could never find a solution so bumping this thread back as it is really annoying me now. To summarise: - Alarm does not work but immobiliser does - remote only works when key is in ignition set to ON. This will disarm the immobiliser. Will not hear any noise from the siren at all no matter if I use the siren key to switch the siren on/off. The doors lock when I press the button with the key in ignition only. When key is not in ignition and set to ON, the remote is useless. There is some internal battery in the siren unit itself? If the siren/this internal battery has died then could this be the cause? Please help!
  3. WTB: S13 ignition and key

    Need one ASAP. In melbourne for pick up. Thanks
  4. WTB: S13 ignition and key

    PM sent! I'm actually after a door lock now. Turns out the ignition is ok but they minced the drivers side door lock.
  5. Hiya, Some *milkshakes* have tried to steal my car for the third time in like six weeks. They'll never get past the immobiliser though. Osaka imports seem to be closed (can anyone confirm?), and I'm desperately after an s13 ignition and key. Anyone have one? Would like to get the car running ASAP so I can get it back off the street! Thanks
  6. Hi guys, Came out to the car this morning and someone has tried to steal it. Shit everywhere in the interior, but most importantly, they have trashed the ignition barrel. Plus it seems they have tried to hot wire it and there is accesories power on as the head unit is on. I have now disconnected the battery. I have a good immobiliser which may have stopped them, but the alarm itself shat itself a little bit ago. Just wondering in this case, will I just have to buy a new barrel with key? And then get an auto elec to put it in? If I get a new barel/key, can a locksmith match my existing door and boot locks to the ignition one or vice versa? Is there anything else I may need to replace (aside from the busted interior trim)? The only thing they took was the ash tray which had $0.15 in it. They left the laptop and tools in the boot! Thanks
  7. Another question, is it possible to test the new ignition barrel before properly mounting it on the steering column by simply plugging it in to the wiring harness of the car? Or does it need to be mourned on the column to earth it or something? Sorry dumb question. I just want to see if they have caused any electrical damage as the car had accessories power on when I first got to the car as they had completely mashed the ignition.
  8. I rang a locksmith about re barreling the new ignition that I am going to buy. He said just bring in the ignition and the existing key which is for the doors and he will match the ignition barrel for $55. So that's probably the best option for that? Thanks for the PM I will looks now.
  9. Hi, Seem to be having a few electrical problems recently on my 180sx.... Headlights will not turn on (both low and high beam). Have checked the globes, all fine. Have checked the two headlight fuses in the fuse box in engine bay near drivers side quarter panel. When I pull the stalk as you would to flash the high beams, the headlights dont even pop up (they pop up fine using the normal button, or when you turn the lights to 'on' via the stalk). I completely dismantled the indicator stalk and cleaned all the electrical contacts thoroughly but that has made no difference. Any other suggestions on what I can check? Also thought I should add, the parker lights and all indicators etc work fine. Thanks
  10. Headlights not working

    Thats what my housemate thought. So then by the fact that there is only one wire on the plug which has constant power, the problem must lie between the battery and that plug? I have inspected the fuses and on visual inspection they seem fine. Would a good test be to use a multimeter on the fuse sockets to see if the power is reaching the fuses in the engine bay?
  11. Headlights not working

    Ok so my housemate whos a mechatronics engineer gave me a hand with some testing. We tried to bridge the plug. We think we did it correctly, however the briding made no difference (ie- only parkers worked). Just a question, should there only be one constant power wire in that plug, when the car is turned off? Or multiple? We took out the stalk of the car and tested for continuity when the headlights were switched to on, on the stalk. That all tested fine so we actually think the switch is ok. As the switch is getting power, and the switch passed the continuity test then the fault must lie between somewhere after the switch and the headlights? Im pretty over this, im going to take it to an auto electrician tomorrow, get them to look at my alarm problem at the same time too. Thanks for all your help everyone, much appreciated.
  12. Headlights not working

    Ahhhh ok then. So im gonna guess its my stalk then. Which wires would I test to make sure the switch is or isnt throwing out power to the headlights? Should I test the headlight plugs (where the globes plug in)? If that has no power then I can safely assume it is my stalk which is gone? Thanks for your help!
  13. Headlights not working

    Can I just clarify something....the flow of power goes as follows: BATTERY ---> SWITCH (Stalk) ---> RELAY ---> HEADLIGHT If that is the case, then there is the possibility that the stalk could be giving power to the relay but the relay is dead? Or is my idea completely wrong? I am not 100% sure which exact wires to test on the switch to see if power is coming out of it. I have had a look in the service manual but cant actually see where they say which wire is power etc. Apologies for my stupid queries! Thanks
  14. Headlights not working

    Thanks for the tip much appreciated. I'm going to test the relays tonight. Which ones in the pics i posted above do I need to test exactly? I have looked up how to test then on YouTube so think I'm all good in that regards. Does the fact that the headlights don't go up when i flash the high beams by pulling the stalk point to a relay being out, or moreso that the stalk is f**ked? I'm thinking the latter?
  15. Headlights not working

    Not quite sure how to check the relays with a multimeter? Do I need to have them connected up to power when I test for ohms? Didnt play with anything necessarily, although I have for the past couple weeks had problems with my alarm as seen in this thread http://nissansilvia....entry2088618016 Are these the relays youre talking about? (the H/L RET ones?) Could very well be the stalk, but as mentioned I completely dismantled it and gave all contact points a very thorough clean/light sand so they were shiny.
  16. Auto electrician

    Hi guys, Am needing a recommendation for a good auto electrician in the inner suburbs (richmind, south melb, prahran, south yarra etc) or mobile one. Needing them to look at a headlight issue, and my alarm which is malfuctioning so must be good with alarms. Had a look in the stickied recommended workshops thread but there arent any auto elecs in there. Thanks.
  17. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    I dont think its a case of it being reset, as the alarm doesnt even arm at all, just the immobiliser does. Plus I once left my car for 8 months whilst I was overseas, put in a new battery and the alarm/remote all worked as per normal (ie- nothing "reset") Already seen the manual, again dont think any of those settings are applicable as the alarm isnt even arming at all. Im begginning to think this may be the case, as the alarm doesnt arm at all. Interesting....I have done a decent amount of driving since. However no real big drives. Only drive 10 mins to and from work each day, have only done one other drive of 30mins+. How long did it take? Can this battery be replaced? If so, is it the battery thats in the siren unit? Only works when key is turned to "ON." The remote has worked a few radom times (worked once to unlock/disarm and about 3 times to lock/arm). Cant correlate this with doing anything different. Plus now my headlights have gone out, not sure if related, headlight fuses are fine, havent checked to see if the bulbs have blown but it would be quite a coincidence if they both blew at exactly the same time no? Does anyone know of a good auto electrician who can look at my alarm and headlights in melbourne? Inner suburbs, or mobile one!
  18. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    Also, I dont think this would be the case as the remote works fine when the key is turned to "ON" (but engine isnt on).
  19. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    Just went and had a look, found the fuses. There were six in total. All were fine. Was really hoping it was just a fuse
  20. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    Battery seems alright now though after driving around for a week, holding charge at 12.24V. Have also tried it with my battery hooked up via leads to another car which has a healthy battery and is running. Sorry, not quite sure what you mean by this? Could you please rephrase?
  21. Mongoose M80 alarm problems

    Where would this fuse be located? Its a 1989 180sx so there isnt a fuse set up for an alarm from factory? Are you talking about a fuse which would be in the alarm wiring itself? Excuse the ignorance.
  22. Hi, My s13 plastic under engine tray/protector split a little and was dragging on the ground. Went to zip tie it back on but decided to just remove it completely. Stupid question perhaps, but is it necessarily bad to remove this protector? For the sake of getting water, sludge up there and scrapage etc?
  23. Plastic under tray

  24. Hi guys, Sorry is this is a silly question, I need a little clarification regarding doing the boost leak test as I have a suspected boost leak on my CA18 180sx. I have made a simple tester using rubber piping, pvc cap etc. Going to put it on the turbo inlet and pressurise from there using compressor. However just a few questions: 1. I have read about needing to block of the pcv. Could you please show me where exactly to block this off correctly? 2. Do I need to have the oil cap off when doing the test? 3. What would be an acceptable rate of the system leaking/depressurising so I can tell all leaks are gone (I assume it would never hold pressure forever there has to be some bleed off in the test). Thanks a lot!
  25. Boost leak test - blocking PCV

    Ok so did the test a couple weekends ago. Took the pcv pipe off and blocked it anyway. Couldn't really hear any boost leaks. Sprayed some soapy water around and found a fair few leaks. Big one at the throttle body, few on inter cooler piping, and a couple big ones where boost gauge is tee'd in. Fixed all those and car runs amazingly well now! Used to be very gutless on boost, idle would sometimes hunt, blow a lot of black smoke on boost etc. Now it boost perfectly, holds boost absolutely perfectly at 0.5bar whereas it used to spike to like 0.8bar and taper off. Very very little black smoke on boost now. Like driving a different car. Thanks for the help everyone.